費南雪很簡單,同時也很經典。科羅拉多很樸素,同時卻很絢爛。用這款點心做科州的引子,我覺得是合適的。離開高原的這段時間裏,我試著寫了一些有關它的片斷,今天一起放在這帖子裏――科州的風物、科州的朋友都定格在我心裏,是生命裏不能忘記的吉光片羽。
方子見本帖最後部分。特別鳴謝:N姐:-)
關於科羅拉多的十個細節(三):雪山
2008年初夏,我跟著朋友一家去科州西南遊覽,幾個國家公園走下來,看了峽穀、沙丘,也在高崖上聽了很久濤濤不絕的鬆風。那些不凡的地貌如今都變成了記憶中的片斷。一路上把視覺連綴、填滿又染上亮色的,是行程中那連綿不絕,層層疊疊,氣勢恢宏,又磅礴壯美的莽原雪山。我清楚記得車子沿著Million Dollar Byway盤山而上的時候,前後遠近無處不山,千山嶺上無峰不雪。層層新雪下有萬古不化的凍土做底,雪色超出峰巒之上,大到占滿一天一地,莊嚴已極。神話中的巍巍昆侖是一個圓融無礙的宇宙,藏邊人把岡仁波齊峰看作神靈之山造化之主,當時眼前的雪山威凜高原,也同樣震撼了我們一行人的心靈。在雪域光輝中我們盤山而上,仿佛前來朝聖的信徒,帶著崇敬和膜拜的心,履行轉山的儀式。
2009年秋,Maroon Bells,淩晨五點的停車場。四周寂靜無聲。身處峽穀,抬頭看得見兩山間托出的一片星空。星星褪下去的時候,我在湖邊支好腳架,裝上濾鏡,開始一次次的曝光。湖水不漾一絲漣漪,山穀在兩側對稱地展開,金燦燦的白樺像古建築中偉岸的庭柱。太陽升起時,那光在瞬間照上主峰,讓我想起古希臘的神殿:在一年中有限的幾個時刻,陽光穿過幽暗的殿堂,聚集在高大的石像之上,石像在一刹那間變得金碧輝煌,發出撼動人心的光芒。我看見這靜立在晨光裏的山峰,不也看見它一萬年前的光芒?這幽穀是座落在時間洪流裏的神殿,教人懂得敬畏永恒。鏡頭裏,那光紅得動人心魄,胭脂一樣灑上山頂,掠過積雪,襯著山邊正燦爛的白樺。
山是說不完的。向西望去,他們是地平線上遠遠的背景,無論如何都不會移開或者動搖。他們在宇宙裏標記著時間、空間,也在這個高原城市裏標記著我那些值得懷念的日子。
當科州的記憶在心中鋪排成一幅長卷,雪山的光輝遠遠近近地布滿紙麵,靜穆莊嚴,成為一切美好一切過往的基調。
關於科羅拉多的十個細節(二):雁
在科州有人煙的地方,加拿大雁隨處可見。傍晚時分,我和M在trail上慢跑的時候,常常會看見他們的身影。這些鳥兒從湖泊處起飛,掠過蘆葦,偶爾發出一兩拍宏亮的叫聲。天空有晚霞的時候,光線從雁陣的側麵照過來,像是在輪廓上燃燒著明亮的火焰。
加拿大雁是美麗的動物–煙色的羽翼,黑色的脖子弧線優美,動作總是遵循著從容的節拍。每次他們在眼前飛過的時候,總是能激發起我心底的勇氣。在想象中,我看得見他們的行程:月明星稀的夜裏,雁們一路南飛。用洛基山和星星引路,越過幾千英裏的陸地,飛向代代相傳的目的地。
雁出現在文字裏,是遊子、離思和羈旅的感歎。但遷徙的雁在我眼中有著別一層的意義。遼闊的天空裏,他們的叫聲鏗鏘有力,響遏行雲。這叫聲說的是–雁度千山,相逢的人終會重逢。
關於科羅拉多的十個細節(一):珍珠街
Boulder有一條Pearl Street。街上有我最愛的書店,手工藝店,咖啡和畫廊。洛基山腳的天氣常年陽光燦爛,雲有時被山風吹成一線,輕紗似的橫在山前天上。好天氣裏,總是能看見CU的學生在這裏自得其樂地或唱或舞或彈奏。鬱金香節的時候,幾百個小孩子打扮成天使、精靈、公主、王子的樣子在街上走過。天使的小翅膀上兜住了滿滿的春意,一路走一路灑。街邊總是種著花,附近街區的人家也各有花樹。我在園藝上完全沒有天賦,所以很樂得到這裏來看各時節不同的花。09年的鬱金香開得最好,隻從街上經過就讓人心裏自然地湧起詩情畫意。借用沈老的句子–看過很多雲,行過很多橋,喝過很多不同種類的酒的人來到這裏,大概也會愛上這些正當最好時光的花兒。
這是我最愛的一張圖片。一個音樂係的學生拉著我說不上名字的名曲,藝術家的手,很美。
費南雪Financier (方子來自Sherry Yard)
引用自:
http://chocolateandzucchini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1243
我做了一個小小的改造:在麵糊裏加入了一些糖漬玫瑰花瓣――這是N姐昨天剛剛給我的寶物J 。我在費南雪的表麵又放了一隻切成兩半的覆盆子(raspberry),這一花一果向來是絕配的組合,費南雪入口後,甜酸互相襯著,再加上玫瑰特有的香氣,吃起來極有回味。N姐,下次我做這個小點心給你嚐~
Here's is Sherry Yard's master recipe for a financier. Sherry is pastry chef at Spago. Her recipes have wonderful flavor and easy to follow. In her book The Secrets of Baking she takes a tutorial approach in which she teaches a basic recipe and then variations on it.
Her note: Once you make this cake, you'll see why I love it so much. It's very nice served on it's own, or with fruit.
If you are baking it in a standard pan, coat the pan lightly with pan spray and line it with parchment, cut to fit the bottom of the pan exactly. A final, light coat of pan spray on the paper helps to keep it from sticking to the finished cake. If you are using an intricately shaped pan, such as a fluted mold, a layer of parchment paper is not possible. In that case, a light dusting of flour over the pan spray will do the trick. Place a tablespoon or two of flour in the sprayed mold, swirl it around to coat the entire surface, then tap out the excess.
It is important that the butter not be too hot when you add it to the batter. It needs to cool at room temperature, but it must remain liquid. If it's hot, your cake will be gooey or clumpy. Melt and brown it about 30 minutes before you begin, so that it will cool sufficiently.
Master Financier
(我用了下麵方子一半的量,做了22個船形小模子。)
• 1/2 pound unsalted butter
• 1 1/4 almond flour or almond meal
• 3/4 cup cake flour
• 2 1/2 cups powdered sugar
• 8 large egg whites, at room temperature
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook until the solids separate and brown to a dark golden color, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool at room temperature until it reaches 70 degrees F, about 30 minutes. Don't chill it. It needs to remain in liquid form — but it also can't be hot when you add it to the other ingredients. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Adjust the rack to the center of the oven. Spray a 10-x-2-inch round cake pan with pan spray, line it with a piece of parchment paper, then coat the paper lightly with pan spray.
Toast 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons of the almond flour in a small baking dish in the oven for 5 t0 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Sift together the toasted and untoasted almond flour, cake flour and powdered sugar into the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, or use a large bowl and a hand mixer. Turn the machine on low and mix the dry ingredients for 30 seconds. Add the egg whites all at once and mix on medium speed for 3 minutes.
Add the melted butter all at once. Be sure to scrape in all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Mix for 3 minutes on medium speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl well (butter tends to sink to the bottom). Financier batter will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. When using refrigerated batter, be sure to bring it back to room temperature, then stir the entire mixture from the bottom up to the top to reincorporate any butter that might have separated and sunk to the bottom. Beat the batter by hand or with a mixer to warm it up and mix it well.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Rotate the cake for even browning and bake for 15 minutes more, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan on a rack for 5 minutes, then invert it onto a rack, remove the cake pan and parchment, and cool completely before serving. Wrapped airtight, financier will keep at room temperature for up to 2 days or in the freezer for 2 weeks.
謝謝!