【中餐西餐好吃就是美餐】西餐篇，給蝌蚪大師交作業

去年看來小蝌蚪大師6月28日的晚餐，在大開眼界和感歎之餘，也有了要想做一套西餐的衝動。不過一直不敢動，一年都已經過去了，這行動還是沒跟上。眼瞅著又進入了下一年，總不能又再繼續衝動一年吧，於是終於鼓足了勇氣，抱著醜媳婦也要見公婆豁出去的念頭，開始做作業了。

做西餐才發現自己在廚房也不是那麽自信了，已經找不到自己做中餐時的那種信手拈來的感覺。對我而言，最大的困難在於原料。很多東西我都沒有現成的，有不少還要自己製作。無論是各種各樣的香料油（檸檬油、香蔥油、薄荷油、迷迭香油等）；特殊的香料粉（番茄粉、金橘粉等）；還是功封番茄、功封金橘以及各種各樣的調味料都要自己一手從頭準備。當我做好所有的準備的時候，家裏堆滿了各種各樣，五顏六色的小瓶子（隻可惜自己當時一門心思想到完成作業，忘記給它們排隊合影了，不過也好，把這個遺憾留在下次補上吧，又給自己一點動力。），女兒看著我視為寶貝的瓶瓶罐罐，笑話我這不是在做飯，更像是在過家家。可不是嗎，女人同女孩不同之處之一就是玩具不一樣，我們的洋娃娃可是一個個脾氣十足的真娃娃。

不管怎樣，作業終於是完成了，是否合格，這個要請老師批閱了。



敬菜三樣：西瓜菊花冰茶；Salmon Tartare Cornets；Mixted Fruit Scallop Ceviche



其實本來想做的是另一個，不過買回來的原料被饞貓們喝完了，隻好臨時改了這個來充數。

果味冰茶的製作方法請點擊這兒：



Mixted Fruit Scallop Ceviche（時鮮水果酸桔汁醃鮮貝）
這個簡單好吃，特別是在夏季，清涼開胃，關鍵就是原材料一定要新鮮。Ceviche是拉丁美洲一種特殊的烹飪方式，就是用酸桔汁來醃海鮮。我用的是檸檬汁和西柚汁，將處理幹淨，新鮮的扇貝浸泡在檸檬汁和西柚汁中，放入冰箱冷藏室浸泡一個晚上，讓扇貝的殼在浸泡過程中自己打開，然後取出來切成小塊，再放入各種時令水果，加上意大利香菜，胡椒和鹽進行調味即可。如果你不放心，你就用汆一下鮮貝，再浸泡在酸桔汁中。



Salmon Tartare Cornets

香脆的芝麻瓦片卷成修長的圓錐形，底部填入洋蔥法式奶油醬，上麵用三文魚塔塔覆蓋，點綴的是自己園子裏的小香蔥。具體的做法我將原方子帖在最後。



Oysters and Pearls (Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Oysters and Caviar)
生蠔魚籽醬西米露



餐館上這道菜的時候，廚師會對你說，不要嫌棄咱們這蠔小，它們可是我們這兒頂級大廚修整過的，我也老實規矩地把它們修整了一番。原方子裏用的西米比較小，我家裏現成的西米比較大。希望大廚看見我的這個山寨版，沒有被氣死。

有人可能會認為吃這道菜的時候魚籽醬會顯得比較鹹，我個人認為如果你單獨吃魚籽醬是比較鹹，但是如果你連同生蠔和西米露一起吃，味道就很棒了。



功封金橘三文魚



頂上放的是魚籽醬和小蔥花，盤中灑了一些金橘粉裝飾。



Salad of Haricots Verts, Tomato Taetare and Chive Oil
功封番茄塔塔，奶油四季豆沙拉





上這個蔥油的時候沒有經驗，用勺子用的，所以不是很好看。



邊上灑的是番茄粉進行裝飾，別看這個小東西不起眼，可費了我不少的工夫。



Maine Lobster Pancakes with Pea Shoot Salad and Ginger-Carrot Emulsion
龍蝦餡餅配豆苗沙拉胡蘿卜乳醬



大廚Thomas Killer在他的書中說道：他一聽見豆子和胡蘿卜，腦海裏就會浮現美國超市裏總是將胡蘿卜丁同小綠豆一起賣的情景。他不太理解為什麽會把這兩種蔬菜放在一起，思來想去他自己找的答案是這樣的搭配是美國人的思維方式，好像還是沒有徹底想通嘛。一次他在同同伴做龍蝦餡餅配胡蘿卜乳醬的時候，突然萌發了要配上豆苗沙拉的想法，用檸檬油做豆苗的調味料，於是這道菜就這樣誕生了。
嗬嗬，大廚你是有所不知，咱們中國人老百姓的平常菜裏，綠豆和胡蘿卜可也是常常成雙入對的。





Zucchini and Saffron Vichyssoise with Scallops
藏紅花鮮貝西葫蘆濃湯



可能自己是個好色之徒的緣故，藏紅花最吸引我的不是它的昂貴神秘，也不是它的風味，而是它那迷人的亮黃色。



這是醒口的鮮果檸檬雪巴



在頂上放了一根橙味蕾絲瓦片

橙味蕾絲瓦片的製作方法請點擊這兒：



這是第一道主菜



Pan-Roasted Striped Bass with Artichoke Ravioli and Barigoule Vinaigrette
煎魚，洋薊餃子，雜蔬菜（請原諒我這個十分蹩腳的翻譯，反正主要內容就是這些了，哪位高人請幫我整理一下中文翻譯。）
綠色的是basil oil，中間餃子的醬料是Barigoule Vinaigrette



不知道為什麽，自從看完了電影《朱莉與茱莉亞》以後，一看到煎魚總會想到電影中品嚐黃油煎魚的情景，我也用了足量的黃油來煎。



第二道主菜，牛扒

有人問我，你怎麽能做到牛扒煎得外焦裏嫩，又沒有血水，我說咱們有秘招呀。除掉我在故弄玄虛的成分，這個真還是認真學習的結果，我真的非常認真地閱讀了蝌蚪大師的牛扒專輯。
蝌蚪大師的牛扒專輯，在知識貫穿美味，美味中飽含親情。讓我們在聞著美味的同時學習到了知識，在學習到了知識的同時又為那種濃濃的親情所感動。我想正是具備了豐富的美食知識才能烹飪出如此的美味，真是擁有了這些親情的回憶，才能讓美味更加具備另一番的滋味。非常的精彩，堪稱經典。我自己從中學到了許多東西，強烈推薦大家去閱讀他的這個專輯。隻要認真，我這個笨鳥都能成功的，聰明的你就沒有不成功的可能。

蝌蚪大師牛扒專輯的鏈接：
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=200802&postID=30047
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=200802&postID=30048
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=200804&postID=7623
http://blog.wenxuecity.com/blogview.php?date=201012&postID=8320



我這次用的是heart of the rib-eye。





這是我自己的自創組合。配菜用了炸土豆餅（這個參考了Potato Pavé）的模樣，用鹽和胡椒炒香的去皮蘆筍，片成薄片的芹菜汆燙後卷成卷。牛肉和蔬菜的醬料是用紅酒和肉汁調的，為土豆餅做了一個Bearnaise Sauce。



毫無疑問，甜點是我最喜歡製作的一部分，相對這套餐的其他部分，它也是我自己最得心應手的地方。



這次做的是藍莓紐約奶酪蛋糕，醬料本來準備用的是藍莓汁調的醬，不過臨時改成了巧克力醬。邊上配的是奶酪冰淇淋，頂上用了一小塊薄脆裝飾，另一邊灑了一些杏仁。

紐約奶酪蛋糕的製作方法請點擊這兒：



品著自己的勞動成果，腦海裏突然閃過一個念頭，大家猜猜是什麽。哈哈^_^^_^

Salmon Cornets (from the French Laundry Cookbook)
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened but still cool to the touch
2 large egg whites, cold
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds

Salmon Tartare
(makes about 3/4 cup)
4 ounces salmon fillet (belly preferred), skin and any pin bones removed and very finely minced
3/4 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoon finely minced chives
1 1/2 teaspoon finely minced shallots
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
small pinch of freshly ground white pepper, or to taste

Sweet Red Onion Creme Fraiche
1 tablespoon finely minced red onions
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste
freshly ground white pepper to taste

Fresh chives, chopped

For the Cornets: In the bowl of a food processor, mix together the flour, sugar, softened butter, salt, and egg whites until completely incorporated and smooth and without any lumps. Transfer the batter to a smaller container, as it will be easier to work with.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Make a 4-inch hollow circular stencil. Place silicon baking mat on the counter (it is easier to work on the Silpat before it is put on the sheet pan). Place the stencil in one corner of the sheet and, holding the stencil flat against the silicon mat, scoop some of the batter onto the back of an offset spatula and spread it in an even layer over the stencil. Then run the spatula over the entire stencil to remove any excess batter. After baking the first batch of cornets, you will be able to judge the correct thickness. You may need a little more or less batter to adjust the thickness of the cornets.

There should not be any holes in the batter. Lift the stencil and repeat the process to make as many rounds as you have molds or to fill the silicon mat, leaving about 1 1/2 inches between the cornets. Sprinkle each cornet with a pinch of black sesame seeds.

Place the silicon mat on a heavy baking sheet and bake for 4 to 6 minutes, or until the batter is set and you see it rippling from the heat. The cornets may have browned in some areas, but they will not be evenly browned at this point.

Open the oven door and place the baking sheet on the door. This will help keep the cornets warm as you roll them and prevent them from becoming too stiff to roll. Flip a cornet over on the sheet pan, sesame seed side down and place 4-1/2 inch cornet mold at the bottom of the round. If you are right-handed, you will want the pointed end on your left and the open end on your right. The tip of the mold should touch the lower left edge (at about 7 o\'clock on a clock face) of the cornet.

Fold the bottom of the cornet and around the mold; it should remain on the sheet pan as you roll. Leave the cornet wrapped around the mold and continue to roll the cornets around molds; as you proceed, arrange the rolled cornets, seams side down, on the sheet pan so they lean against each other, to prevent from rolling.

When all the cornets are rolled, return them to the oven shelf, close the door, and bake for an additional 3 to 4 minutes to set the seams and color the cornets a golden brown. If the color is uneven, stand the cornets on end for a minute or so more, until the color is even. Remove the cornets from the oven and allow to cool just slightly, 30 seconds or so.

Gently remove the cornets from the molds and cool for several minutes on paper towels. Remove the silicon from the baking sheet, wipe the excess butter from it, and allow it to cool down before spreading the next batch. Store the cornets for up to 2 days (for maximum flavor) in an airtight container.

For Salmon Tartare: With a sharp knife, finely mince the salmon fillet (do not use a food processor, as it would damage the texture of the fish) and place it in a small bowl. Stir in the remaining ingredients and taste for seasoning. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the tartare for at least 30 minutes, or up to 12 hours.



For Sweet Red Onion Crme Fraiche: Place the red onions in a small strainer and rinse them under cold water for several seconds. Dry them on paper towels. In a small metal bowl, whisk the creme fraiche for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until it holds soft peaks when you lift the whisk. Fold in the chopped onions and season to taste with the salt and white pepper. Transfer the onion cream to a container, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve of for up to 6 hours.

To Complete: Fill just the top 1/2 inch of each cornet with onion cream, leaving the bottom of the cone empty. (This is easily done using a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4-inch plain tip or with the tip of a small knife.) Spoon about 1-1/2 teaspoons of the tartare over the onion cream and mold it into a dome resembling a scoop of ice cream. Sprinkle with chives to garnish.

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