The three stages of a francophone coming to terms with life in Britain, as described by Robert Zaigue of The French Bookshop, London:
• MISERY: The French newcomer is lonely and baffled for at least six months by the bizarre ways of les anglais. The ridiculous driving on the left, the indecipherable humour, the rain. And that distinctly British trait of cheerily discussing the weather but never actually extending an invitation to real friendship. The first impression: c'est terrible.
• AMBIVALENCE: Bythe end of the first year, with the gradual acquisition of survival(and language) skills, London's charm begins to reveal itself. Forsome, beer becomes more than palatable. Even the cursed rain is made bearable by the glorious greenery that abounds in the capital's surfeit of parks. Perhaps because sunny days are so rare, the British seem to enjoy them more.
• LIBERATION: By the end of year two, many French émigrés want to stay forever. The love affair comes replete with a dowry ofbetter pay, lower taxes and no fear of being seen to enjoy the spoilsof labour. Says Zaigue: "In France, you think twice about buying a nicecar because always, eyes are watching you. People get jealous. InBritain, as long as you obey the rules, nobody gives a damn what youdo. For many of us, this is freedom."
Mitch Potter
LONDON–The French and the English may well be the ultimate cats and dogs of world history, two populations whose epic rivalry turned vicious nearly 1,000 years before Jews and Arabs really began to seriously cross swords.
All of which makes the assumption-shattering reality of London, circa 2008, such a triumph of rapprochement. Today's London is not just slightly French, it is so acrawl with émigrés from across the English Channel that it now ranks as a major francophone city in its own right, by some counts the seventh-largest anywhere.
How that translates into hard numbers is difficult tosay. French government officials assess the French population inBritain at 300,000 people, an estimated two-thirds of whom make London their home.
But as European passport holders are under no obligation to register, others suggest a truer figure may be closer to 600,000.
The epicentre of French London is South Kensington, which is today more commonly known as la petite France for its surfeit of patisseries, bistros and francophone schools. Another nickname that is catching on: "Fr'angleterre."
"But it is also known as 'Frog Valley,' which I prefer,"laughs Robert Zaigue, who together with his wife Laure owns andoperates The French Bookshop, an expat oasis founded 15 years ago whenthe northern migration was just beginning.
The Zaigues, nominated in the upcoming Français of theYear Awards for their collective contribution to the French renaissancein Britain, have seen thousands of newcomers cross their threshold looking for a taste of la vie anglaise. They say the phenomenon begins – but does not end – with money.
"The opening of the channel tunnel was the original flashpoint, where suddenly London and Paris are linked by rail in just a couple of hours," said Zaigue.
"But the biggest influence by far is London's emergenceas the leading city for global finance. The major French banks realizedthey had to be here and they sent many of their top people to establishbases. The French 'city boys' became so successful that thousands and thousands followed. Some go back, of course, but many fall so in love with London they will never leave."
To a lesser extent, the migration is reciprocal. But the British drift southward has been driven more by retirees in search of a more agreeable climate in which to live out their active years.
The economic torpor that saw President Nicolas Sarkozy prevail with a promise to bring about "a rupture" withthe past not only keeps working-age Britons at home but also drives thesurge of working-age French northward in search of opportunity.
Centuries of mutual hatred do not fall silently into history's dustbin, which helps explain the shelf of books dedicated to modern cross-Channel contretemps. They include Peter Mayle's best-selling A Year in Provence, the title of which later inspired Stephen Clarke's A Year in the Merde.
In a league of its own is the richly contextual That Sweet Enemy: The French and the British from the Sun King to the Present by Robert and Isabelle Tombs. He is British, she is French and together the husband-and-wife historians crystallize how both nations set out to, in the words of Kipling, "mould the other's fate as he wrought his own."
It is precisely such lingering rivalry thatmakes historian Robert Tombs wonder at the depth of the newfoundrapprochement. But as the U.K.'s economy teeters toward recession, andwith a disproportionately large number of financial sector jobs facing the axe, he expects the answer will soon come.
Said Tombs: "Is it merely a flag-of-convenience or are we seeing a deeper shift in attitudes between France and Britain? The test will be how many people leave when the economy turns. If we see a flood out of London, it will show us the extent to which the old, well-established stereotypes endure."
Zaigue is confident that lasting change has taken holdof expats in Britain, a transformation he says is symptomatic of Franceas a whole.
"The French in London already see the world differently.They are ahead of a similar change that is just beginning in France.Part of it is that we are all coming to terms with the reality that the French language is no longer the bulletin of the world. More and more they are learning English because they have no choice," he said.
"Many older people in France are horrified bythis; many younger people are excited by it because they accept the oldworld is history. And in this new world, the French know what we dowell. We are creative, inventive, talented, artful. We make new things,but we are not so good at selling them, which is what the Anglo-Saxons do very well.
"This combination of Anglo-Saxon and French-Latin, it is very powerful. Nicolas Sarkozy understands this perfectly. That is what the French are doing in Britain."
The combination comes with unique complications,however, which are often dropped in the laps of people like FrancesSieber, head of family law at the London firm Pritchard Englefield.When French marriages fall apart in Britain, says Sieber, one spouse issometimes in for a costly shock when they learn that French civil law, based on the Napoleonic Code, has no bearing in Britain.
"The French men, the bankers, find it difficult to stomach the English approach, where everything including inherited family property is on the table. Their attitude is, `This is my money. I get to keep it,' but then they find out they can get taken to the cleaners."
Arguably, the most impressive facet of French London, meanwhile, is the explosion of upscale French bistros, many of which count among the 40 Michelin-starred restaurants in the capital.
The trend toward French dining has given rise to up-and-coming star chefs like Malcolm John, who is looking to expand his two-bistro operation to satisfy demand for his exceptional cassoulet.
"They want to know what part of France I'm from. And then I have to explain, `No, I'm from St. Vincent in the Caribbean. Not even the French Caribbean, I'm afraid. And no, I never studied in France,'" John told the Star.
"It's a bit hilarious. But that is London in 2008 for you.You don't have to be French to cook French food. All you need is to bepassionate about food and people and be a good craftsman. Thank God,London has gone French. There is no better food, and no better pleasurethan to be the one who creates it."
摘自:Article source:
http://www.thestar.com/printArticle/463480
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