2010夏之旅 5.東部之巔

 

  記得印度好友Anita曾對輕舟說：“來美國近20年了，在美國各地的旅遊麵積比起在印度要廣得多。”我也有同感，在美國居住時間沒有中國長，但美國本土的遊曆比中國開闊的多。美國旅遊交通很方便，可以自駕車遊，較遠的地方可以做飛機去，或者坐遊輪、火車。。。普通美國家庭夏天都會出門度假一到兩周，全家人一起出遊，欣賞美景，更享受家人在一起的黃金時光。

 

  從佛蒙特州(Vermont)北開車兩個多鍾頭，就到了新罕布什爾州(New Hampshire)的白色山嶺一帶(White Mountain Ridges)，這一帶山嶺高低起伏，蜿蜒盤轉。我們向美東最高峰華盛頓山峰(Mt. Washington)開去。華盛頓山峰海拔六千多英尺，是美國東部爬山愛好者必要攀登的主要山脈之一。我們一家2003年曾經來過，當時孩子尚小，我們坐蒸汽火車沿齒軌鐵路(cog rail)登上山峰，其中有世界吉尼斯紀錄齒軌鐵路最陡的軌道（37度的山坡），那段鐵路的綽號是"Jacob's ladder"（源於聖經舊約雅各夢見天梯）。這次我們決定開車沿汽車山路(auto-road)上最高峰。兩個大人、兩個孩子的車子要付43美元，護山員給了我們一個信封和一片碟帶。信封裏有“登上頂峰”的證書和“這輛車爬上了華盛頓山峰”的車子貼條（聽起來真不錯，哈哈！）。護山員讓我們邊上山邊聽碟帶，了解安全開車的小建議，和華盛頓山峰的曆史地質事實。。。

 

   依照安全提議，傑明用最慢鐺開車上山，車速在15-20英裏左右。天氣預報說，大約有50%暴風雨的可能。不管怎樣，當天沒有下雨，但時晴時陰。山景也時隱時現地與我們“捉迷藏”。在不同的高度瞭望台，我們停下來拍照賞景。

 

   華盛頓山有很多綽號，其中一個是“世界上最惡劣天氣的地方”，因其冬季酷寒和疾風而聞名，世界上風力最強的記錄來自該山頭，1934年有風力每小時231英裏的記錄。華盛頓山風景點也是美國曆史上最早的人工建造的景點，景點1861年對遊客開放。山路還是從前的樣子，隻是曾經是馬車路，如今是汽車路。路道窄，但寬度夠雙行道通車。路邊不時有懸崖，讓人觸目驚心。這樣的山行不適合恐高症者。

 

    根據碟帶介紹，山峰天氣多變。當我們開到山頂時，陽光從雲層中探出了頭，幾分鍾後，雲兒重遮天空。迷霧將山頂的眺望塔重鎖。又有雲霧在腳下，讓我們感覺騰雲駕霧一般。

 

   山頂上有齒軌鐵路(cog rail)和火車頭，但護山員告訴我們，現在不再用蒸汽火車了，柴油發動的火車代替了蒸汽火車。

 

  我們參觀了山頂的信息台和博物館。有很多關於山頂險惡氣候的圖片和電視介紹，牆上還貼著近200年以來，在開發山峰為景點，攀登山峰或住在山上而死去的人的名單。當天（8月2日）山下氣溫70多華氏度，山上氣溫是50多華氏度。冬季山頂氣候之嚴酷可以想象。頂峰不見任何植被。

 

   到達山頂很有成就感也玩得很盡興。當地印第安人說的好，“到達頂峰的記憶將伴隨一生”。這次，即便是孩子，這句話也同樣適用。

 

 

（圖） 在不同的高度瞭望台，我們停下來拍照賞景。

當天沒有下雨，但時晴時陰。山景也時隱時現地與我們“捉迷藏”。

遠處山間的那條線，就是山路，有近150年曆史了



多年以來徒步登山者留下的石堆，作為記號









山頂上有齒軌鐵路(cog rail)





山頂信息台介紹天氣的險惡

火車頭走下了很多遊客


  
下山是同一條山路。

1861年建的山路還是從前的樣子，隻是曾經是馬車路，如今是汽車路。路道窄，但寬度夠雙行道通車。路邊不時有懸崖，讓人觸目驚心。這樣的山行不適合恐高症者。

 

以下是輕舟當時寫的遊記原文：

 

Monday   August 2nd

 

   From North VM to New Hampshire, the drive was remote but beautiful.  When we entered White Mountain Ridges, there were mountains looming high and low, curving against one another. We headed directly to Mt. Washington, which has the highest peak (6,288 feet) in the East of America. Seven years ago our family vacation took us here. Back then both kids were young and they didn't remember much. In 2003 we boarded a cog rail steamed engine to go up Mt. Washington. I still remembered the steep "Jacob's Ladder" (37-degree of Guinness record) part of the journey. This time we decided to use auto-road to drive up to the peak. It cost us 43 dollars to enter and the ranger gave us an envelope and a CD. There was a "Certificate of Accomplishment" and "This car climbed Mt. Washington" bumper sticker. Sounds great, isn't it! The CD gave basic information on safety tips and mountain's history and geography.

 

    We used low gears to climb up the mountain with average speed of 15-20mph. The weather forecast says, "It has 50% chance of storm." Nevertheless, it never rained and when we drove up, it alternated between sunshine and overcast. The mountain view played "hide-N-seek" with us. We took breaks at different observation spots, taking pictures and appreciating the beautiful of mountain ranges.

 

   Mt. Washington has many nicknames, one of them is "The home of the world's worst weather" for its severe winter weather on the top. It has the world's worst wind shield (231MPH) documented in 1934. It is also the oldest man-made attraction in the U.S. history. It was made to public in 1861. The roads were unchanged since then. In the old time, the road was for horse-drawn carriages, now the automobiles was driven to the peak. The road was narrow, but wide enough for two-way traffic. The cliffs on the side can be scary, so it is not advised for people who have fear in heights.

 

    According to the CD recording, the weather of Mt. Washington changes quickly and dramatically. When we reached the top, the clouds moved away for a few minutes, but it soon overcastted. The heavy mist folded above and the observation tower was hidden. There were clouds underneath us, making us feel like floating in the sky.

 

   It was nice seeing the cog rails and the engines on the top, however, the rangers told us that no more steamed engines were used any more, the diesels were used to bring passengers up and down. We felt blessed to have been able to ride on the steamed engine in 2003.

 

    We visited the Information Desk and the Museum at the top. There were pictures and maps explaining the tough weather of the peak. A list of names who died while exploring the peak were displayed on the wall. The temperature was 70's at the bottom and it changed to 50's at the top. It is not hard to imagine how bad the weather can be during winter seasons. There were virtually no plants at the height.

 

    We had a wonderful time at the peak and this time, even for kids, "The memory will take with you forever" as it says among the local Indians.