Panettone(圖)

Origins

In Italy and France, the panettone comes with an often varied history, but one that invariably states that its birthplace is in Milan.

The origins of this cake appear to be ancient, dating back to the Roman Empire, ancient Romans sweetened a type of leavened bread with honey. Throughout the ages this "tall, leavened fruitcake" makes cameo appearances in the arts : In a 16th century painting by Pieter Brueghel the Elder, also as a recipe in a contemporary recipe book written by Bartolomeo Scappi, personal chef to popes and emperors during the time of Charles V.

The word "panettone" derives from the Italian word "panetto," a small loaf bread. The augmentative Italian suffix "-one" (pronounced "onay")changes the meaning to "large bread." Fanciful legends ascribing the word to a baker named "Tony" show little understanding of the Italian language. See American Heritage dictionary for etymology.

The first recorded association of Panettone with Christmas can be found in the writings of 18th century illuminist Pietro Verri. He refers to it as 'Pane di Tono' (Large Bread).

Legends

Some believe that the word 'panettone' is of complex and not fully discernible origin. The most likely etymology derives from the Milanese, "pan del ton," meaning "bread of luxury." The word has given rise to a number of fanciful folk etymologies, however. One 15th century legend from Milan credits the invention to the nobleman falconer Ughetto Atellani. According to legend, he fell in love with Adalgisa, the daughter of a poor baker named Toni. To win her over, the nobleman disguised himself as a baker and invented a rich bread in which he added to the flour and yeast, butter, eggs, dried raisins and candied lemon and orange peel.

The duke of Milan, Ludovico il Moro Sforza (1452-1508), agreed to the marriage, which was held in the presence of Leonardo da Vinci, and encouraged the launch of the new cake-like bread: Pan del Ton (or Toni's bread).

Another legend credits the cake being invented in the court of the Sforzas , but with the following story:

It was Christmas and the court cook had no dessert to offer. So the guests were given a sweet bread baked by a mere kitchen boy, called Toni, which won general praise. Rather than steal the praise for himself, the cook congratulated his assistant and named it after him.

Other historians claim to have found references to "pan del ton" as far back as the 1300s. In those days some families made a thick bread with wheat flour called "pan del ton", which meant "luxury bread" in Milanese dialect.

History

In the early 20th century, two enterprising Milanese bakers begin to produce Panettone in large quantities to the rest of Italy. In 1919 Angelo Motta started producing his eponymous brand of cakes. It was also Motta who revolutionised the traditional panettone by giving it its tall domed shape by making the dough rise three times, or almost 20 hours, before cooking, giving it its now-familiar light texture. Motta, now owned by Nestlé, is one of the best-known brand in Italy to this day. The recipe was adapted shortly after by another baker, Gioacchino Alemagna around 1925, who also gave his name to a popular brand that still exists today. The stiff competition between the two that then ensued led to industrial production of the cake-like bread.

As a result of the fierce competition, by the end of World War II, panettone was cheap enough for anyone and soon became the country's leading Christmas sweet. Northern Italian immigrants to Argentina and Brazil also brought their love of Panettone, and Panettone is enjoyed for Christmas with Hot Cocoa or liquor during the holiday season, which became a mainstream tradition in those countries.
In Argentina, Brazil, Chile , Venezuela and especially in Peru, (known in Peruvian Spanish as "Panetón") where the son of immigrants from Caserta, Italy, Antonio D'Onofrio spawned his own brand, using the Alemagna formula, which he licensed, along with the packaging style. This brand, founded is now also owned by Nestlé and exported throughout Latin America. In recent years, Brazilian Panettoni have increased in quality and in popularity due to their low cost and abundance.

Although Panettone is quintessentially Milanese, it is more popular today in central and southern Italy, which accounts for 55% of sales, than in the Milan region in the north, with 45% of sales.

Manufacturers have tried over and over to offer new and better types by launching panettoni stuffed with chocolate chips, cream or even lemon liqueur, or limoncello. The traditional recipe remains the favourite, with 50 million sold for Christmas in 2002.
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Recipe: Panettone

Recipe origin: Italy

Ingredients

• 4 Tablespoons yeast
• 2 cups warm water
• ½ pound butter, melted
• 4 teaspoons salt
• 1 cup sugar
• 4 eggs, beaten
• 6 egg yolks, beaten (discard egg whites or save for another use)
• 10½ cups flour
• 2 cups citron, sliced fine
• 2 cups raisins, seedless

Procedure

1. Dissolve yeast in the water. Mix in the butter, sugar, salt, eggs, and yolks.
2. Stir about 10 cups of flour into the butter and yeast mixture until blended.
3. Spread a little flour on a board. Turn dough out onto the board and knead for 8 to 10 minutes. When the dough is soft and smooth, knead in the citron and raisins.
4. Place dough in a greased, round pan, and brush the top with melted butter.
5. Cover, and allow to rise until the dough has doubled in bulk (about 1 hour).
6. Preheat oven to 425°F.
7. Using a sharp knife, cut a deep cross in the top of the loaf.
8. Bake for about 8 minutes, or until the top begins to brown. Lower heat to 325°F and bake for 1 hour more.

Serves about 10.