盈盈小築
我享受烹調出記憶中的家鄉菜，歡欣能做出不同文化背景親人記憶中的滋味，更享受以文字的方式紓解羈旅異鄉的愁懷，拾掇文化與精神的饗宴
正文
根據wikipedia的介紹：
[峇峇娘惹（或稱土生華人/僑生）是指十五世紀初期定居在滿剌伽（馬六甲）、滿者伯夷國和室利佛逝國（印尼）和淡馬錫（新加坡）一帶的中國明朝後裔。峇峇娘惹也包括少數在唐宋時期定居此地的唐人，但目前沒有來源證明唐宋已有唐人定居此地，所以一般上峇峇娘惹都是指大明後裔。這些唐宋明後裔的文化在一定程度上受到當地馬來人或其他非華人族群的影響。男性稱為峇峇，女性稱為娘惹。]
According to Wikipedia:
Nyonya is the term for the women and Baba for the men. It applies especially to the Han populations of the British Straits Settlements of Malaya and the Dutch-controlled island of Java and other locations, who have adopted Nusantara customs — partially or in full — to be somewhat assimilated into the local communities. Many were the elites of Singapore, more loyal to the British than to China. Most have lived for generations along the straits of Malacca. They were usually traders, the middleman of the British and the Chinese, or the Chinese and Malays, or vice versa because they were mostly English educated. Because of this, they almost always had the ability to speak two or more languages.
娘惹糕點在東南亞一直都富有盛名，今年端午節我們吃喝飯團召集了一起過節吃粽子，團裏的姐妹們都拿出自己家鄉的粽子。我也拿出我們祖傳的娘惹粽食譜，來跟大家分享一下啦！
這個食譜是我曾祖母留下的，家裏隻有我媽學下來了，我奶奶是不太會做飯的，媽媽嫁過去的時候，曾祖母還健在，我的曾祖母是有名的巧手，很會做糕點和女紅。我還記得小時候坐在她身邊看她手握麵團，隨便在鐵板上繞一圈，就烙出一片薄餅皮的情景，也記得家裏小孩子彌月還是婚慶，她老人家親自做發糕和龜糕的樣子。
我想，我就是那個時候就開始了對烹飪的興趣的吧！
Most Southeast Asian are known for their varieties of Kuih/bite-sized snack or dessert foods.
This Dumpling is one of them, it highly resembles its close cousin Bak Zhang in looks. The taste, on the other hand, is a completely different story. It is a package of savory, spicy and sweetness all wrapped in one (literally), very addictive it is.
This recipe was my great grandma's. Great granny was the queen in the kitchen and was great with needle works. I still remember the awe I felt when I saw her making Popiah skin the first time by spreading a bunch of bouncy/sticky dough over hot skillet, bare handed, she was quick and swift.
She made most of our festive cakes/pastries at home until much later in her life.
餡料：
2 磅/900 克 豬後腿肉 (Pork leg cuts)
50 克/20 朵香菇 （泡發）
350 克 糖冬瓜
100 克 紅蔥頭
80 克 蒜瓣
3 大勺 芡粉
For filling：
2 lbs/ 900 g Pork leg cuts
50 g/ 20 Dried Mushrooms (soaked)
350 g Candied Winter Melon
100 g shallots
80 g garlic
3 tbsp corn/tapioca starch
1. Dry roast coriander seeds and black pepper corn until fragrant, cooled and ground into fine powder using a spice grinder/coffee grinder.
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11. 先在底部填入1大勺藍米，再一小勺白米，然後把2大勺的餡料填入，再鋪上2大勺白米，左右兩角各放上一小撮藍米，蓋上一片香蘭葉，用湯匙壓緊米粒。
12. 把粽葉折起，左手把粽子的左右兩端握實，右手把粽葉蓋上，折好，就可以用棉繩綁起來了。重複相同的步驟把粽子都裹好。
13. With the same left hand, lightly squeeze to mould the shape a little with your thumb and forefinger to create ‘wings’ on both the sides, fold the ‘wings’ upwards. Turn the remaining leaves (which are now sorta folded into half) around the shape of zhang.
14. Now pull a string of cooking twine and make two loops around the dumplings where most of the folds and the end of the leaves are at. Tie a "live knot" at the end to secure the shape, a single pull later should be able to unravel the knot.
15. Repeat the same steps for all the remaining ingredients.
娘惹糕點在東南亞一直都富有盛名，今年端午節我們吃喝飯團召集了一起過節吃粽子，團裏的姐妹們都拿出自己家鄉的粽子。我也拿出我們祖傳的娘惹粽食譜，來跟大家分享一下啦！
這個食譜是我曾祖母留下的，家裏隻有我媽學下來了，我奶奶是不太會做飯的，媽媽嫁過去的時候，曾祖母還健在，我的曾祖母是有名的巧手，很會做糕點和女紅。我還記得小時候坐在她身邊看她手握麵團，隨便在鐵板上繞一圈，就烙出一片薄餅皮的情景，也記得家裏小孩子彌月還是婚慶，她老人家親自做發糕和龜糕的樣子。
我想，我就是那個時候就開始了對烹飪的興趣的吧！
Most Southeast Asian are known for their varieties of Kuih/bite-sized snack or dessert foods.
This Dumpling is one of them, it highly resembles its close cousin Bak Zhang in looks. The taste, on the other hand, is a completely different story. It is a package of savory, spicy and sweetness all wrapped in one (literally), very addictive it is.
This recipe was my great grandma's. Great granny was the queen in the kitchen and was great with needle works. I still remember the awe I felt when I saw her making Popiah skin the first time by spreading a bunch of bouncy/sticky dough over hot skillet, bare handed, she was quick and swift.
She made most of our festive cakes/pastries at home until much later in her life.
Come to think about it. Observing her act in the kitchen was the beginning of my interest in cooking, I think.
注：原帖寫於 2010 年6月，今日更新照片，食譜微調。
材料：（45 隻 粽子）
餡料：
2 磅/900 克 豬後腿肉 (Pork leg cuts)
50 克/20 朵香菇 （泡發）
350 克 糖冬瓜
100 克 紅蔥頭
80 克 蒜瓣
3 大勺 芡粉
糯米：
4磅/1800 克 長糯米
10 克/1大把 曬幹的藍花 （大約35朵）
1 杯 食油
1 大勺 食鹽
調味：
1/2 瓶/罐豆醬 （大約2/3杯，最好是馬來西亞產的）
75 克 芫荽籽 Coriander Seed
25 克 黑胡椒 Black Pepper Corn
1 小勺 食鹽
5-6 大片 香蘭葉 Pandan Leaves/Screwpine leaves 洗淨剪成2寸左右的小段
其他：
6 把 棉繩
4磅/1800 克 長糯米
10 克/1大把 曬幹的藍花 （大約35朵）
1 杯 食油
1 大勺 食鹽
調味：
1/2 瓶/罐豆醬 （大約2/3杯，最好是馬來西亞產的）
75 克 芫荽籽 Coriander Seed
25 克 黑胡椒 Black Pepper Corn
1 小勺 食鹽
5-6 大片 香蘭葉 Pandan Leaves/Screwpine leaves 洗淨剪成2寸左右的小段
其他：
6 把 棉繩
1 大勺食鹽 煮粽子用
Ingredients：（Make approx 45 dumplings）
For filling：
2 lbs/ 900 g Pork leg cuts
50 g/ 20 Dried Mushrooms (soaked)
350 g Candied Winter Melon
100 g shallots
80 g garlic
3 tbsp corn/tapioca starch
For glutinous rice：
4 lbs /1800 g long grain glutinous rice
10 g/1 big bunch of Fresh/dried Bunga Telang/Butterfly Pea Flower
1 cup of cooking oil
1 tbsp of salt
Seasoning：
1/2 bottle of Soy Bean Paste （Around 2/3 measuring cup, preferably made in Malaysia.）
75 g Coriander Seed
25 g Black Pepper Corn
1 tsp salt
5-6 大片 香蘭葉 Pandan Leaves/Screwpine leaves 洗淨剪成2寸左右的小段
Others：
6 Cooking twine
4 lbs /1800 g long grain glutinous rice
10 g/1 big bunch of Fresh/dried Bunga Telang/Butterfly Pea Flower
1 cup of cooking oil
1 tbsp of salt
Seasoning：
1/2 bottle of Soy Bean Paste （Around 2/3 measuring cup, preferably made in Malaysia.）
75 g Coriander Seed
25 g Black Pepper Corn
1 tsp salt
5-6 大片 香蘭葉 Pandan Leaves/Screwpine leaves 洗淨剪成2寸左右的小段
Others：
6 Cooking twine
1 tbsp salt to boil dumplings
1. 把芫荽籽和黑胡椒煸香，冷卻後磨成粉備用。
注：我母親的做法是芫荽籽和黑胡椒都要洗過曬幹才煸炒的。我沒覺得芫荽籽和黑胡椒很髒，就沒洗。
2. 把肉洗幹淨入水煮至7分熟，取出去皮，切細丁。煮肉的水留下一大碗備用。
3. 香菇泡發切細丁，冬瓜糖切細丁。豆瓣醬攪拌機攪拌成糊狀/或剁成茸備用。蔥蒜去皮剁碎備用。
注：這個過程我最不喜歡了，站著切了大半天，腰都累直流。不過肉還是不要用攪拌機攪拌的好，用手切 丁做出來的粽子的口感比絞肉好太多太多。
2. 把肉洗幹淨入水煮至7分熟，取出去皮，切細丁。煮肉的水留下一大碗備用。
3. 香菇泡發切細丁，冬瓜糖切細丁。豆瓣醬攪拌機攪拌成糊狀/或剁成茸備用。蔥蒜去皮剁碎備用。
注：這個過程我最不喜歡了，站著切了大半天，腰都累直流。不過肉還是不要用攪拌機攪拌的好，用手切 丁做出來的粽子的口感比絞肉好太多太多。
Note：Mom washed and sun-dried the coriander seeds and pepper corns days ahead. I do not think it is necessary, so I skipped this step.
2. Bring half pot of water to boil and cook the pork until firm, remove, drained and skinned. Cube the pork into the size of peas. Save 2 cups of the boiling water for later.
3. Cleaned, soaked and chop mushrooms to the size of peas. Use a food processor to chop shallot, garlic and candied winter melon individually. Blend/soy bean paste into fine thick paste.
Note：Try not to use minced meat to make this zhang, it taste so much better with chopped pork.
2. Bring half pot of water to boil and cook the pork until firm, remove, drained and skinned. Cube the pork into the size of peas. Save 2 cups of the boiling water for later.
3. Cleaned, soaked and chop mushrooms to the size of peas. Use a food processor to chop shallot, garlic and candied winter melon individually. Blend/soy bean paste into fine thick paste.
Note：Try not to use minced meat to make this zhang, it taste so much better with chopped pork.
4. 鍋裏下1/2杯的油，倒入剁碎的蔥蒜，炒香後加入豆瓣醬，煸炒香後，倒入香菇丁和五花肉丁，煸炒至出油，加入糖冬瓜，翻勻。倒入一大碗（大約兩杯）煮肉水，加蓋燜煮15-20分鍾。
5. 加入芫荽和胡椒粉，拌勻。試試味道，不夠鹹加點鹽。再燜煮五分鍾，三大勺芡粉加水兌好勾芡後就可以熄火冷卻。裝到容器裏，放入冰箱的冷藏室，冷藏一個晚上。
4. Heat up 1/2 cup of cooking oil and stir fry chopped garlic and shallot until fragrant. Add blended soy bean paste and cook until oil separates, add chopped mushrooms and pork, continue cooking and stirring until oil separated again. Add chopped candied winter melon and 2 cups of the broth we saved, bring the mixture to boil and turn the stove to medium low, simmer for 15-20 minutes.
5. Add grounded spices, mix well, continue to simmer for 5 more minutes, adjust taste with salt if needed. Mix 3 tbsp of cornstarch with 1/2 cup of water, add it to the mixture and bring the heat to high, cook for 2-3 minutes or until the mixture thickened. Take it out and store in container with lid/cover, let cool and place in the refrigerator to chill overnight.
6. 在一口小鍋裏，倒入一杯的水，放入洗淨的藍花，煮大約8-10分鍾，至顏色充分煮出，撈出蘭花丟棄不用。
注：在蘭花汁裏滴入兩三滴的檸檬/青檸汁可以讓顏色變得更深，染出來的米粒更好看哦！
7. 裹粽子前把粽葉剪去硬梗部分，泡熱水1個小時後用刷子刷幹淨，再衝洗兩遍，備用。
8. 把長糯米淘洗幹淨即可，不必泡。把米分成兩份。把糯米分成兩份，一份大，一份小。小的那分大約是總量的1/3 。在小的那份倒入藍花汁，浸泡15分鍾後倒掉多餘的水份，拌入1 小勺食鹽。大份裏拌入2小勺食鹽。
9. 一口小鍋裏熱上1杯幹淨的食油，將1/3 倒入小份糯米裏，2/3倒入大份糯米裏，拌勻。米這裏的準備功夫就好了。
9. 一口小鍋裏熱上1杯幹淨的食油，將1/3 倒入小份糯米裏，2/3倒入大份糯米裏，拌勻。米這裏的準備功夫就好了。
6. Boil the dried butterfly pea flowers in a saucepan with 1 cup of water at medium for about 8-10 minutes until the color of water turned dark blue. Discard the flowers.
Note：Adding 2-3 drops of lime/lemon juice into the flower water will brighten the color even more.
7. Remove the stem of bamboo leaves using a scissor. Soaked the leaves in hot water for an hour, brush and wash the leaves twice before using.
8. Wash and drain the glutinous rice, there is no need to soak it. Divide the rice into two portions, one larger (2/3) and one smaller (1/3). Add the butterfly pea flower water to the smaller portion, mix well and let it dye the rice for 15 minutes. Drain excess liquid before adding 1 tsp of salt. Add 2 tsp of salt to the larger/white rice portion.
9. Heat up 1 cup of cooking oil in a small pan until small bubbles form from the bottom, pour 1/3 of it to the blue rice and 2/3 to the white. Mix well and the rice is ready.
9. Heat up 1 cup of cooking oil in a small pan until small bubbles form from the bottom, pour 1/3 of it to the blue rice and 2/3 to the white. Mix well and the rice is ready.
藍花馬來語叫做Bunga Telang，英文名字叫做Butterfly pea flower，這是網上找來的照片.
This is how the butterfly pea flower/Bunga Telang looked like.
我的是娘家女傭種了收成曬幹給我帶到美國用的，是最好的天然色素哦！
Mine was harvested from mom's backyard and sun-dried by mom and her maid. Best natural food color.
10. 把所有的材料準備好就可以開始裹粽子。選兩片差不多一樣大小的粽葉，較細的那端向內相對，疊起。然後在粽葉1/3處，折起成筒狀。後邊要看起來是如圖所示那樣。
11. 先在底部填入1大勺藍米，再一小勺白米，然後把2大勺的餡料填入，再鋪上2大勺白米，左右兩角各放上一小撮藍米，蓋上一片香蘭葉，用湯匙壓緊米粒。
12. 把粽葉折起，左手把粽子的左右兩端握實，右手把粽葉蓋上，折好，就可以用棉繩綁起來了。重複相同的步驟把粽子都裹好。
注：棉繩不要纏得太緊，不然粽子在煮的過程可能會因為糯米發漲而爆破，即使不破，做出來的粽子也會 有"腰"，不夠方正，就沒那麽好看。
10. When all the ingredients are ready, it is time to wrap the dumplings. Pick two leaves that are similar in size and length, place one on top of each other, one pointing left and one pointing right to even out irregularities of the leaves.
11. Fold the leaves at about 1/3 length and bring the sides together to create a cone. Place 1 tbsp of blue rice at the bottom of the cone with 1 tsp of white rice over it. Place 2 tbsp of filling in and cover with 2 tbsp of white rice, place some blue rice at both the corners if you like your zhang to have all three points blue in color.
12. Now with one hand firmly holding on to the cone, fold the leaves over rice with another. Once folded, turn your left hand (still firmly holding on to the cone) from palm facing up to palm facing down.11. Fold the leaves at about 1/3 length and bring the sides together to create a cone. Place 1 tbsp of blue rice at the bottom of the cone with 1 tsp of white rice over it. Place 2 tbsp of filling in and cover with 2 tbsp of white rice, place some blue rice at both the corners if you like your zhang to have all three points blue in color.
13. With the same left hand, lightly squeeze to mould the shape a little with your thumb and forefinger to create ‘wings’ on both the sides, fold the ‘wings’ upwards. Turn the remaining leaves (which are now sorta folded into half) around the shape of zhang.
14. Now pull a string of cooking twine and make two loops around the dumplings where most of the folds and the end of the leaves are at. Tie a "live knot" at the end to secure the shape, a single pull later should be able to unravel the knot.
15. Repeat the same steps for all the remaining ingredients.
Note: try not to make the loops too tight to leave some rooms for the rice to swell during cooking process. Looping too tight can cause rice bursting out from the leaves or creating "waist" in your zhang which indicate very firm texture.
13. 在一口大大的深鍋裏，倒入超過大半鍋的水，加入1大勺的鹽，煮滾。水滾之後，把裹好的粽子下鍋，煮2。5個小時.熄火後泡在水裏30分鍾再取出滴幹水份，冷卻。
注：煮粽子的水裏一定要下鹽，不然煮出來的粽子味道會變淡喔！
我另外用素雞，香菇，糖冬瓜，去了蔥蒜（五辛）做了素餡的娘惹粽送到佛堂供養師父。素的味道也不錯喔！
13. Fill a stock pot with 2/3 of water and 1 tbsp of salt, bring to a rolling boil. Place the zhangs into the water and cook at medium heat for 2.5 hours. Let the zhang sits in the water for 30 minutes more after switching off the stove. Drain and let cool.
Note：Adding salt to cooking water is essential to prevent changes of taste in the Zhangs.
I also made a vegetarian version using the Vegetarian Chicken (gluten) with the same recipe (minus garlic, shallot and meat) for prayer at the temple, it tasted very good too!
家鄉有名的娘惹粽好了，味道豐富，賣相美觀呢！
The taste of my family heritage! Beautiful and palatable!
歡迎到我的英文博客玩 --
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