2014 06 28 ~ 07 01
初夏的熱浪仿佛是一下子就跳到麵前，這總讓我有出門旅行的衝動。 於是有了想法， 要去找一找美國境內的cottage 和 park， 感受一下與我們熟悉的安省的夏天有多少不同。不想開車太遠，就從紐約州的State Park 開始， 很自然的找到了Adirondacks State Park，一進入這個網頁 http://visitadirondacks.com/， 我就知道我一定要去這裏了。
這個美國最大的州立公園實在太大了，可玩的地方太多了。瀏覽找尋之中，首先確定的是這個cottage，http://www.laplandlake.com/ ，網站首頁很吸引人，那寧靜的湖水和岸邊的canoe/kayak，似乎是在等待我們一家三口的到來。 這個由美國前cross country滑雪運動員創建的冬夏兩季的cottage resort居然可以按天出租， 我興奮不已， 六月底的周六全部售空， 隻好訂了周日周一兩天。Cottage位於Adirondacks的南部， 而 Adirondacks的北部旅遊勝地Lake Placid 地區也正是我們很向往的地方，索性周六就住那裏了，事實證明，這是個多麽正確的選擇。網站http://www.lakeplacid.com/ 旅遊信息應有盡有， 我們的hiking信息基本都來自於此。
星期六一大早6點出發。從千島湖出境，過關順利，開 往 Hampton Inn & Suites Lake Placid, 801 Mirror Lake Drive, Lake Placid, NY 12946。Lake Placid的海拔是1800英尺，車子進入到Adirondacks Park地區就發現道路蜿蜒起伏， 山地自行車運動十分普遍，經常要和運動員們共用山路。沿途看到多項進行中的體育賽事：有鐵人三項比賽，馬術比賽， 規模不小，頗有運動之鄉的感覺。
按計劃今天先hiking，再入住酒店， 事先查了四個trail的資料， 最終選擇去看貌似比較業餘的Beaver Meadow Falls (3.7 mile one way)。 很快走完Beaver Meadow Falls和rainbow falls，期間第一次和美麗的鹿近距離對望， 興奮又緊張。我們想起山下看門人介紹的Indian Head trail是他的favourite， 都覺得不去會留遺憾，於是決定一試。
誰知這個選擇讓我們創造另一個平生第一次： 爬（不是做纜車喲）到海拔2700英尺的山峰（Lake Placid的海拔是1818英尺）。由於是臨時決定爬山，我們碰巧選擇了最陡峭的一側上山， 爬山過程多處懸梯都要手腳並用， 此時天色已晚， 一家三口又餓又累，幾此都想放棄爬山了。 然而，終於堅持到達頂峰的那一刻，一切都釋然了！德國阿爾卑斯山脈和瑞士雪山的震撼還留在我們的心裏， 可是這裏的感受卻截然不同 ：沒有那般的大氣雄渾，確有這般的秀美親切， 不知是不是先前的艱苦努力讓此刻的風景平添魅力。
山下的湖水悠閑而飄渺， 兩側的山峰鬱鬱蔥蔥，離你很近，似乎伸出手來， 就能觸及那初夏的翠綠。在被太陽曬得熱熱的巨大岩石上坐下來， 任山風撫發，看雲卷雲舒， 如夢純淨，心曠神怡，女兒說真想一直待在這裏。。。 下山時選擇了另一條路， 隻有一處懸梯，稍好走些。
趕回酒店，用微波爐熱了我們的自帶晚餐, 加上LG的favourite Samuel Adams 啤酒，勞累了一天的一家人吃的很痛快。
回想這一天，體驗了許多，感慨了許多，驚歎了許多。。。濃縮的沸騰生活，是我們每日平靜的加拿大生活不可或缺的調劑， 不是嗎？不知從何時開始女兒對我的評價是Crazy mom， 說的對， 很慶幸還有點實力去做有點crazy的事情。LG說我們當天不停歇地爬山共計5.5個小時， 很為我們的小實力驚訝， 也為很少hiking的女兒而驕傲。
順便提一下這片山川湖泊， 包括我們走的trails都是私有財產，歸屬Adirondack Mountain Reserve (AMR)，進門在山下要登記的， 看看這個club介紹很有意思http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ausable_Club, 在AMR 的土地上，高爾夫， 網球，會所， mountain hiking， 湖泊泛舟，盡在一個club之中，夫複何求？
酒店坐落在Mirror lake旁， 星期天一大早就看見著裝統一的泳者就在湖中訓練， 直到中午時分才結束。酒店用過早餐，逛了逛這個兩次舉辦冬奧會（1932，1980）的美麗小鎮，有很多有趣的商鋪小店，Café, 零食，紀念品， 有個十分紅火的Deli restaurant赫然寫著：46 Best Sandwiches in the High Peaks， 這是因為Adirondacks mountain一共有46個peaks，看看小店菜單， 還真的有46種sandwitch，有趣。有很多人的誌向是去征服這46個山峰， 我的理想是下一次再來登上Whiteface Mountain。
在一路下來， 女兒最愛的是這家充滿創意的店FORTUNES OF TIME LAKE PLACID,， 裏麵的很多東西都很獨特，設計新穎，耐人尋味。
在離開這裏去cottage 之前， 還想走個trail，鑒於昨天的大運動量，找了個較平坦的 Whiteface Landing， 聽說有人會沿 lake placid lake 劃船（kayak）到此， 然後攀登Whiteface mountain，女兒說希望有一天她會實現。。。
把車停在窄小的trailhead， 開始一路與蚊子的搏鬥， 終於到達Whiteface Landing， 又有小驚喜， 真的有個dock， 早有人把遊艇開來停泊於此，一家人遊泳曬太陽聊天， 我們也坐在dock上， 涼風習習， 暑氣全消，眺望遠山，心曠神怡。 索性脫掉鞋子，用腳感受湖水清涼，女兒說真想跳到湖裏遊泳， 嗬嗬，沒帶遊泳衣，隻能下次了。 麵對湖光山色，吃罷自帶的午餐牛肉卷餅， 返程。
下午開車直奔cottage，一路上有山有水，的的確確感受到與平原地帶的安省不一樣的景致，經過Keene Valley（也就是昨天來過的Beaver Meadow Falls trailhead），從車上看到一個巨大的瀑布從天而降，十分壯觀。趕緊看地圖，似乎是Roaring Brook Falls，可惜錯過了。
足足開了2.5小時才到達我們的目的地Lapland Lake Nordic Vacation Center, 139 Lapland Lake Rd, Northville, NY 12134。臨近cottage，先後看到了一隻鹿，和兩隻十分可愛的小黑熊橫穿馬路，女兒說真想養那小熊當寵物，太cute了 。
到達cottage已是晚飯時間， 趕緊埋鍋造飯， 燉一大鍋事先準備好的排骨凍豆腐土豆白菜湯， 吃的十分過癮。然後三人分別各居一室， 在這個三臥房的cottage酣然入睡， 感覺不是一般的奢侈。
該怎樣描述這個我在網頁裏一見鍾情的cottage呢， 咋看外觀平常， 細看甚是欣喜。住過多次不同的cottage，這是我住過的最幹淨的， 衛生間一塵不染，廚房用具齊全。有sunroom，紗窗嚴密，夜晚納涼，看螢火蟲在黑夜跳舞， 白天在搖椅小憩，絕妙！另外，冬季這裏是越野滑雪勝地，cottage是有空調製暖的，但據owner說屋內的火爐效率很高，易操作，取暖過程感覺比電暖器更自然，更舒服。Cottage沒有電視和網絡， 晚上我們一家三口圍坐沙發讀書聊天，女兒十分喜歡這種和平常不一樣的夜晚，安靜溫馨，其樂融融。
房間裏麵有詳細的cottage resort及周邊地區方方麵麵的介紹，一個大厚本子應有盡有，簡直是吃喝玩樂大全， 還包括醫療信息， 感覺這個resort的管理十分嚴謹周到。 Cottage owner 的創業史也寫在裏麵， 讀完很是敬重這個長在芬蘭的美國運動員，和他能幹的妻子。
Cottage出去走7/8分鍾的林間小路， 就屬於resort的private lake，人不多，十分安靜，泛舟其上，或靜觀晨霧在湖上跳舞，或遠眺暮色漸染群山，就像在自家的後院一樣的逍遙自在， 這種感覺千金難買。女兒除了最愛的kayak，canoe， 還十分喜歡paddle boat, 說感覺回到了old days。湖水清澈，遊泳極佳。如能帶上魚竿嚐試釣魚也許更好。
在cottage的一個小插曲，至今回憶起來還讓我們忍俊不止： 傍晚時分， 我們在湖麵劃船， 視野之內隻有湖水，遠山 和我們的船，除了野鴨子偶爾嘎嘎，四周安靜極了。忽然聽得一種響亮的叫聲從岸邊傳來，早聽說這附近有reindeer，是她嗎? 女兒很興奮地把船劃到岸邊去追蹤這個叫聲，屏住呼吸聆聽她的動向，小心翼翼地滑動船槳靠近，想一睹她的芳容，無奈追蹤良久一無所獲，天色已晚隻好作罷。 第二天和owner說起此事，他告訴我們那很可能是一種青蛙的叫聲：夜間出沒，聲音很大。。。我們聽後大笑，一切美好想象傾刻無蹤。
原計劃cottage期間再去附近走Crane Mountain trail， 但三個人都想take it easy，最終被小鎮遊代替， 開車十幾分鍾的小鎮Northville景色不錯， 在Great Sacandaga Lake湖邊餐館吃個午餐， 再到小鎮咖啡店（Java John's Coffee Shop，South Main st, Northville）耗上個把小時也是十分愜意的事情。女兒還想試試騎馬，但時間不夠，隻能等下次了，有時候留點遺憾也未嚐不是好事。
兩天悠閑的cottage生活很快結束， 星期二吃罷午餐啟程回家， 路過Green Lakes State park, 7900 Green Lakes Rd, Fayetteville, NY。稍作停頓，這個湖的特別之處是水的顏色，藍中帶綠，水質清澈，岸邊遊泳的人極多。
沿湖散步，沒注意到天上已是烏雲密布，原以為雷聲還遠，誰知頃刻間大雨傾斜而下， 我們撒鴨子往車裏跑，但為時已晚，渾身上下被大雨澆了個透。我們開心大笑，一不小心又創造一個之最（平生被雨淋得最透的一次）！趕快找衛生間收拾停當，打道回府，從大瀑布過境回家。
到家附近的魚湯店吃一碗熱騰騰的魚湯米線，為這次旅程劃了個完美的 - 暫停號，我們還會再來！
Tips from Internet：
Beaver Meadow Falls (3.7 mile one way) is one of the most picturesque waterfalls in the Adirondacks, but it does require a bit of work to reach it. With a fanned out waterfall feature it cascades a gorgeous white to the Ausable River below. Be sure to read the link on the parking and trailhead and note that dogs are absolutely prohibited in this game preserve
Primary Trailhead: This is part of the St Huberts parking area/trailhead. Leave Lake Placid on Rte 73, follow Rte 73 toward Keene. Continue through Keene and Keene Valley and into Saint Huberts. Continue to the trailhead for the AMR on the right, directly across the road for the Roaring Brook Falls Trail to Giant Mountain. This is approximately 3.0 miles from the outskirts of Keene Valley.
The St. Huberts Parking area is located 7.5 Miles west on route 73 from the junction of exit 30 on 87. When driving west on 73 you will see a road sign on the left named Ausable Road. This is the only sign visible from the road that marks the entrance to the parking lot. Also it is directly across from the Roaring Brook Trailhead on the right, which leads to Giant Mt.
When entering Ausable Road, the lot is immediately visible and there is no parking allowed along the road which leads to the Ausable Club.
The parking lot holds approximately 40 cars, although more have probably been squeezed in on busy weekends. When the lot is full, there is some parking across the street at the Roaring Brook Trailhead, or along the side of route 73 itself.）
From the parking lot you will initially have to follow a dirt road to a paved road. Just before reaching the main club house, turn left and down between two tennis courts on Lake Road Way to get to the gate into the AMR. The AMR is private property with recreational easements, special rules apply to use and those are posted at the gate. From the gate hike the dirt road for nearly 2 miles to a sign for a trail on the right for Gothics and Beaver Meadow Falls. This trail will lead you through an attractive forest to a bridge over the Ausable River. Just over the bridge is Beaver Meadow Falls, you will hear it before you see it. Pass the bridge, continue to the falls.
Whiteface Landing, Whiteface Landing is visited along the route to Whiteface Mountain, but makes for an excellent destination for all.
Whiteface Landing sits at the northeast end of Lake Placid (the lake). It is an excellent paddling destination as well as a hiking. It makes for an excellent spot to go fishing or take a cool dip in the Adirondack waters.
Primary Trailhead: From the intersection of Route 73 and Route 86, follow Route 86 toward Wilmington. Continue for 3.0 miles to the Whiteface Trailhead on the left. During the summer months and into the fall you can drive the Connery Pond Road back to the trailhead. If the gate is closed it will require you to park just up the road on Route 86 at one of two parking lots near the river.
This is a 2.5 mile hike one way to the Whiteface Landing. From the trailhead at Connery Pond pass by the gate and begin a rather moderate hike along an old woods road. You will pass by some camps along the way, these are private. A yellow gate marks the start of state land. The road from here becomes much more gravel strewn and adds on a bit of elevation. The footing is a bit tough in spots due to the rocky terrain but it's a rather quick hike back to Whiteface Landing.
6 mile RT, mostly easy with moderate elevation and some rocky spots, Elevation: 1860' Ascent: 195'
Crane Mountain, A beautiful loop hike up Crane Mountain complete with suspended ladders up cliffs and a descent past a mountain pond.
This loop trail takes you up the steep route up to the top of Crane Mountain's exposed summit. This route even climbs a tall ladder suspsended to a rock cliff so get ready to climb a bit! Once on top you'll have great views from multiple ledges and then descend around a beautiful mountain pond of the same name with an option to climb some rock ledges for alternative views. From the pond you'll descend gradually in a loop trail back to your vehicle.
Tips: Crane Mountain Trailhead:
From Johnsburg, NY and Rte. 8 turn south onto South Johnsburgh Road. Follow this until you come to the small town of Thurman where you will take a right onto Garnet Lake Road. Travel 1.4 miles down this road until you see a DEC sign pointing towards Crane Mountain. The road turns to dirt as you follow this sign for another 2 miles. At this point you will see a small dirt road on the right which can be rough. You can park here or walk the half mile to the true trailhead. It is free to park here.
Points of Interests:
1. Crane Mountain Trailhead
Start off on the shorter trail to the summit starting to the right. This trail is the steeper way up the mountain but is the best way to go for your knees as the descent past the pond is more gradual. It is free to park
2. Crane Mountain Summit
At 3,254 you are now at the summit of Crane Mountain. From the rock ledges at the top you will have amazing views. Check out the pond you are about to descend to. Did you make it up that suspended ladder to the top? From the summit follow the trail that heads down towards Crane Mountain Pond to the north to do a different, more gradual, loop back to the parking lot.
3. Pond Viewpoint
While you are skirting around the pond to the north you can take the time to scramble up the rocks here to check out a different view over Crane Mountain Pond.
4. Crane Mountain Pond, Views over Crane Mountain Pond.
5. Last Junction, at this junction you will want to head left back towards the Crane Mountain Trailhead.
