Fri May 30 馬賽Marseille
住宿：Fri May 30 - Sun Jun 1, ibis Marseille Gare Saint Charles, 1 Square Narvick, Marseille, 13001, France, +33491956209 (€ 194 for 2 nights)
早上沿尼斯海濱大道跑步，再一次享受尼斯的陽光，再找個能夠看海的咖啡店坐下來(Le Balthazar, 3 Promenade des Anglais, Nice, 8.3€)，cappuccino香濃，海麵溫柔，天空湛藍，雲淡風清，感覺似乎可以融化其中。舒服的陽光照在身上，我們再次感慨這裏的美麗，是可以平和地欣賞和接受的，寧靜不張揚，這就是尼斯的魅力，還沒有離開， 已經想再回來。
乘火車前往馬賽 (單程 NICE VILLE－》 MARSEILLE ST CHAR 每人37 €), 沿途景色迷人，2個半小車程的前一小時是沿著海岸的。駛過嘎納不久便發現在蔚藍海岸的一些海邊，原來也是有細沙灘的。再過一兩站，是山依海，海環山的美景，有時峭壁直入大海。這裏的海邊也是風情萬種呀。
酒店就在火車站旁，到了馬賽， 在火車站買好第二天去Aix的車票 (單程 MARCEILLE ST CHAR－》 AIX EN PROVENCE 每人7.8 €，回程價格相同)， 而且有去飛機場的直達Bus也很方便(三人22€)。火車站附近的建築很漂亮。
早就聽說馬賽是個不太像法國的城市， 眼見為實了。街道沒有那麽的幹淨整潔， 城市裏麵移民聚居區尤甚，但它是歐洲最古老的城市之一，自古以來就是地中海沿岸的經濟和文化中心，有歐洲文化之都的美稱，古跡很多。我們整整走了一天， 收獲不小。
馬賽舊港Old Port， 港口附近很熱鬧， 餐館林立， 我們選了一家經濟實惠的餐館， 味道還不錯 (La Chope D'or, 32 Quai Du Port 13002 Marseille, 48.5€)。
從舊港遠眺Notre Dame- 馬賽聖母院
老城區Le Panier，值得一提的是Le Panier的遊覽十分方便， 隻要沿著地上不同顏色（粉色或紅色）的標識線走， 可以走長線瀏覽所有古跡，也可以走短線挑重點。
馬賽聖母院Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde，雖然不如巴黎聖母院的名氣大， 但因為建在山頂，可以俯瞰馬賽全城， 景色壯觀。從馬賽舊港遠望教堂似乎很遙遠， 於是決定乘bus上山， 參觀完畢，我們步行下山， 隻用了20分鍾， 原來直線距離並不遠。
馬賽，是此行最後一個臨海的城市。明天的Aix 就算內陸了。相比於溫柔內斂的Nice，古典婉約的Antibes，平和恬靜的Menton，張揚奔放的Cannes，窮奢極欲的Monaco, 馬賽隻能說是特立獨行了。這個法國大革命的發源地，一半是海水，一半是火焰, 它的嘈雜中，透著勃勃生機。。。
Tips:
Le Panier, a stroll through the old Marseille: Marseilles has generously painted a red line marking the tourist route through the Panier.
Built on the site of the ancient Greek Massalia, the Panier is a typically Mediterranean district with colour-washed facades. The historic refuge of seafarers and generations of immigrants, the Panier is a peaceful haven, still working-class.
History of a district
The Panier became a working-class district when the Marseille middle-class decided to move out in the 17th century to relocate in the new districts designed by Colbert to the east. In the 19th century, as the commercial and industrial revolution got under way, it progressively acquired its bad reputation. Seen as an 'overpopulated hill with ill-repaired houses' by the town councillors, the Panier was considered an obstacle to the development and modernisation of the city. This excessively shady reputation did not prevent the village from developing its own way of life with a population living largely from the sea – fishermen, seafarers, amateur sailors.
Set on high ground (you 'go up to the Panier'), it attracted Neapolitans at the end of the 19th century, then Corsicans after the First World War. Part of the district was dynamited by the Germans in February 1943, except for the prestigious buildings. But the locals showed their mettle: even the smallest of plots sufficed to rebuild their high houses. Today, umpteen countries – from the Maghreb to the Comoro Islands without forgetting Vietnam – add their touch of colour to the Panier's cultural mosaic. Sitting on chairs, elders continue to chat in the sun while unruly kids call one another avé the accent so typical of Marseille...
Stroll through the Panier
Compact, the Panier can be crossed on foot, haphazardly, in search of fragrances and sensations, without fear of going astray. It is no longer the dangerous back alley where the otherwise courageous Marseillais dared not venture! The ancient Massalia has indeed been under constant rehabilitation for the past twenty years. Now ochre roughcast facades are brightening the area up and craftsmen, potters and santon makers are setting up here again. Writers of Marseille detective stories - Del Pappas et Carrese, inter alia – make it the setting of their adventures...
To reach the hill, do as the Greeks from Phocea did who arrived here 2600 years ago: start from the quayside in front of the city hall. Of Baroque inspiration, this small building recalls certain palaces on the Italian coast, like in Genoa. This work by Gaspard Puget and Mathieu Portal is built in a fine pink glowing stone from the quarry at La Couronne near Martigues (calcareous molasse already exploited by the Greeks). To the left of the city hall, you'll see one of the finest examples of reconstruction in Marseille: the blocks of flats by architect Pouillon, entirely clad with fine yellow stone from Vers-Pont-du-Gard. The architect, aware that the site had a several thousand years history, increased the number of classical elements: an attic storey covered with tiles, loggias and, at street level, arcades with a coffered ceiling.
Then take Rue de la Prison by the side of the city hall. You'll pass in front of a beautiful 16th century civilian palace, the Maison Diamantée with a facade featuring diamond facets. Rue de la Prison leads to Rue Caisserie, the Panier's oldest. Don't miss the wrought iron balcony of Hôtel Daviel, the former court of justice (1743), decorated with so-called marguerite panels, marguerites being the favourite motif of the local craftsmen in the 18th century. You can aslo admire the Hôtel-Dieu, a magnificent 18th century edifice renowned for its three floors of circular arcaded galleries.
Retrace your steps and start the 'ascension' of the Panier by the legendary Montée des Accoules which has earned the district its reputation as 'the village for goats' because it's so steep. The change in atmosphere is radical when you enter this steep Medieval alley with a guardrail down the centre. On the left, at number 5, stands the Panier's oldest building (17th century) with a rather dilapidated facade awaiting restoration.
On your right, Rue Poirier winds under the washing lines, like in Naples. Continue climbing and, at number 24, stop in front of André Robbe's Cabanon des Accoules. This maker of santons (of which the tradition arose in Marseille and not in Aubagne), campaigns for the development and safeguard of this district he knows inside out. Slightly further on, the Préau des Accoules is a former 18th century Jesuit college converted into an art centre for children.
The Vieille Charité, Marseille's architectural gem
Continue towards Place de Lenche, a pretty sunny little square with a beautiful view over the glistening water of the Vieux-Port. It is located on the former Greek agora. In the minds of locals it also conjures up images of gangster shootouts. Then follow Rue de l'Évêché to Place des Treize Cantons from where you can see the enormous Neo-Byzantine dome of the Nouvelle Major Cathedral. This square is the setting of legendary venues of local life, such as the famous Bar des Treize Coins, and the non-less famous Chocolatière du Panier, a minute black shop to which Casanova paid a visit. From here, walk up Rue du Panier for 100 metres.
Between Rues Rodillat and Pistoles you'll see the Vieille Charité, Marseille's architectural gem. Built between 1671 and 1749 to care for the city's down-and-outs, this former hospice is the work of the Puget brothers. Admire the chapel and its ovoid dome, a masterpiece of Italian Baroque. The place, a haven of peace and silence, groups many museums (Mediterranean archeology museum; African, Oceaninan, and Amerindian arts museum (MAAOA); François-Reichenbach collection).
Return to Place de Lorette, go down Rue de Lorette in the middle of which you'll cross the steep passageway bearing the same name. The contrast is brutal. Exit the Mediterranean village with narrow streets in mid-air; enter the Hausmannian city with the large and noisy artery, Rue de la République, leading to the Vieux-Port.
