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Standard plan set: https://abag.ca.gov/our-work/resilience https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ho9eQKsFnvg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kn9XJhDPSzw#t=10m30s
具體實例:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcorjQxfwoA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pr9Ui-kgDA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGK8gZxcrPE#t=44s
1. 放在水泥地基上的木料稱為泥基mud base。上圖是泥基錨栓的分布要求,錨栓距房子端頭是9-12"其餘接頭5-12",錨栓間隔4(2-3層樓)-6'(單層),鑽孔後需吸出粉末再加膨脹螺栓或粘性即加環氧樹脂和螺栓、3x3墊片和螺帽固定;無法鑽孔則用Simpson URFP框架錨;為省錢可如上圖所示加木料後用螺栓或Simpson URFP。混凝土中的孔將與膨脹錨栓的錨栓直徑相同,粘性即加環氧樹脂的錨栓孔稍大1/16~1/4";孔的深度對於膨脹錨栓至少4",對於粘性錨栓至少6"。
2.短立柱的這段高度稱為殘牆cripple wall,通常間隔16",其空間即泥基上可加PT或基礎級紅木2x4 block橫木限位,上述螺栓可加在橫木上;如果開有地窗或大跨度,每段至少2個螺栓。殘牆需要加15/32 exterior至少5層的膠合板,每個牆端支撐度1層樓為40%或以上,兩層為 50%。使用至少四英尺寬的板,8d or 0.131x2.5"(釘槍可用2-1/8")釘子四邊間隔4"中間12"。分配膠合板的方法1是將所需長度的三分之一放在每個牆端,其餘三分之一放在牆的中部。例如,單層住宅一側有16"高60'長的殘牆,則至少需要16"x8'膠合板三張,分居兩端和中部。方法2可用六張四英尺長的沿牆壁均勻分布,每端各有1張,此法可能避開殘牆處的管道煙囪或通風孔。每張膠合板要鑽兩到三英尺的通風孔,居中在mud seal上1.5"處和頂板下2.5"處;如果膠合板高度低於18"則隻鑽1個孔,方便檢查其中的bolt。如果有外部通風管,膠合板上開孔的周圍需加墊木並加釘子。
3.殘牆上方橫置的2x4與豎立的端板Rim joist之間要加clip angle L90/L70, 10d or 0.148x2.5"釘。對於橫木被白蟻蛀導致降低,用20噸千斤頂後塞入7/16"膠合板後再加2x4"支撐floor joist。
4..殘牆上方橫置的2x4若短於48",需加#16(1.518mm)鐵條跨越接縫,例如外部的crawl space入口上方。實際用了2x3x1/4"角鐵,要是2x2x1/4"方管並列就更好了。
本地市府檢查隻有一次在完工後。同時可能檢查大桶熱水器的固定和煙霧報警器。
gas valve: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtZUZIRDr1Y? https://www.amazon.com/Andreas-Northridge-Earthquake-Manual-Sensitive/dp/B07Q773WLZ/ref=sr_1_1
1855-376-3221 https://www.foundationrepairofca.com/earthquake-retrofitting-and-repair.html
挑戰:我的地基上緣寬9,再往上是1.5"高的調平水泥是混凝土地基的一部分寬6",mudsill是1.75"x6",上麵還有2"x4",然後10.25"高的Cripple stud寬度1.75-2,so total wood structure cripple wall height is: 1.75+2+10.25+2+2=18"。
地基豎孔:需低高度鑽,一般衝擊鑽都放不下,因空間僅10.25"下為4"木料才是水泥。直角鑽DCD740高4"、Dewalt DW120為5-1/2"、Milwaukee 3107-6為5.625"、1680-20(非常重,搞不好回扭斷胳膊)是有倒角的,對2x4大概為4.75"。Dewalt 電池鑽DCD805為卡頭縮回6.5",60ftlbs,20V2A,但是手冊隻建議最大1/4水泥鑽頭;若DCD740可用-很易燒毀-卡頭縮進時估計為3.5"。鑽頭按價格選擇是:Irwin/Diablo/Bosch/Milwaukee,按速度則相反;其它品牌包括Dewalt可能鑽不了老地基。按Milwaukee 1680-20算,10.25-4.75=5.5",鑽先用木工鑽鑽掉4",放8"鑽頭鑽水泥4"深,再放10"(實際可放到12")鑽頭再鑽1.25-1.5"水泥,這樣水泥洞深5.25"加木料9.25-9.5",12"錨栓留2.75-2.5"給墊片螺母。實際操作不易:工具太重,缺少擰緊鑽夾的空間。
方案1:mudseill加墊1/2"再裝QRFP,兩端的半圓能砸平最好,斜孔往下。方案2見下圖:QRFP躺在地基上麵,1/2"x6"螺栓斜孔往下,5x1/4x3"螺絲固定在mudsill上層2"x4"上,可能要結構師簽名。方案3:在現有mudsill上打10"深孔,空間有限孔有傾斜。
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kn9XJhDPSzw#t=98m38s 好長的視頻,QRFP在2020年低是$17.5。買了一片UFP10-SDS3,可以用在我的地基上但是數量有限而且貴 - 比HD的QRFP貴8刀。螺絲是5pcs SDS25312即1/4x3.5",用3/16鑽孔3/8套筒。我因mudsill是2x6加2x4,會把其中2個換為5"長的。最
最終方案:UFP10-SDS3或上述三次鑽加樹脂埋錨栓。我設法買了一些UFP10,雖然價格不菲。mud sill用Simpson 1/4x3.5或5"及3/8套筒,如果是6x80mm需10mm套筒;側麵是1/2"螺栓至少5"長。
Palm nailer單釘槍必須有,推薦Ridgid適合1.5-4"釘,客服1.866.539.1710或https://register.ridgidpower.com/contact,備件Gardner at 800.544.2444。另外Bostitch PN100 kit或Harbor,建議在本地店買以便更換和保修。漏氣很常見,通常是墊圈不到位或沒墊圈。買了二手R350PNF試用不錯,稍碰到釘子就動作不費勁。
LA的plan https://www.ladbs.org/docs/default-source/publications/standard-plans/anchor-bolting-bracing-foundation-drawing.pdf?sfvrsn=f68feb53_15 似乎用到Mitek SRC:https://www.mitek-us.com/products/concrete-masonry/foundation-anchors/SRC 按LA plan,1/2的threaded rod鑽頭14mm或9/16",鋼筋用5/8",力矩25-30ftlbf,與Simpson文檔的5/8"鑽頭最大力矩20ftlb有差別:https://www.buildsite.com/pdf/simpsonanchors/ET-HP-Epoxy-Adhesive-Product-Data-1849356.pdf
9/16x10"的鑽頭很難找:https://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/9-16-x-10-1-4-itm-sds-plus-hammer-drill-bit? https://www.bridgefasteners.com/products/9-16-x-10-1-4-carbide-hammer-sds-plus-drill-bit,它也賣1/2x12"錨栓,注意若是不鏽鋼要選304(18-8)的。
Epoxy 14fdays hard-hard/fresh-hard strength psi: Simpson ET-HP22-N 2400/2800, SET-XP22-N 3200/2000, SET-3G 3350/2750, AT-XP上萬,差不多的是PC-concrete 20.2oz,9/16x5"可灌約64孔,與HD賣的Pro的差別是強度類似,固化時間短(44小時,Pro是7天;操作時間均為20分鍾)。每孔擠兩次就可以了。
釘子得規格也亂,例如IRC標準16d是3.5x0.135",但Simpson commonssinker、short分別是3.5x0.162和3.25x0.148,所謂sinker是頭部有網格便於手釘時錘子滑動,short不建議用於Framing。8d/10d/12d/16d是長度2.5/3/3/25/3.5"。8d common是2.5x0.131,但galvanized多為2.5x0.113。galvanized傳統是指hot dip浸鋅的,但不少廠家把不耐久的電鍍也叫galvanized,不過包塑料的還沒敢這麽叫。傳統hot dip的外觀是不光滑發白,有的鍍鋅是光滑的顏色發暗鍍層較薄,電鍍發黃就更薄了。Simpson的UFP10是鍍鋅但是不厚還是會鏽的。
Procedure: call inspector to confirm washer size and inspection steps
0.anti rust processing of UFP10
1a.drill 7/8x4" holes along eastern wall, 3+4 holes, and
white chalk to mark/measure plywood height/position
1b. when concrete drill bits received, finish threaded rod holes of 5" deep, vac/brush/clean hole, insert threaded rod and leave at least 1/2" after nuts installed.
1c. do 1st epoxy rod, mark amount needed, then do rest - total 3+4 - each needs 0.3oz@14mm drill, OP time only 20min. . Might use remained epoxy for roofing. Clean the gun.
2.make template to drill 3/16" wood holes at the center height of mudsill, 4.5"/3" deep w/ mark on drill bit, these are for UFP10, order is south/west/north, and mark/measure plywood height/position
3.cut 2x4, install whenever I have time
4a. when UFP10 available, install No.2/4 1/4x3.5" screws to locate UFP10, then drill 1/2x6" concrete hole, vac/clean and measure depth,
4b install 2pcs 1/2x5" bolts for each UFP10 torque to 25-30ftlbs, then tighten 5pcs 1/4 scerws(outer 5", inter 3.5")
5. nailing 2x4x14.5" blocks, w/ palm nailer
call inspector
6a. cut plywood & predrill vent holes, nail screens,
6b. after 1st inspection, install plywood w/ framing nailer
call final inspection
https://trakit.saratoga.ca.us/etrakit/dashboard.aspx? google saratoga city inspection,在網上創建賬戶,連接到permit#,再選時間,需提前幾天。y~i/B(
===
wk1=0521
1.UFP10防鏽處理 -0520
2.做2x2x14.25”L模板,上麵鑽離邊緣1.5"的0.5"孔,側麵離上端1“鑽5x 3/16孔 - 0521
3.測量並記錄每個14.5”間隔寬度,標記rod、UFP10、膠合板位置(x,||和<>) - 0521
4.找出來3“鑽芯
5.買angle steel install將裝在入口上沿 - PO done 0523
wk2-4
1.抽空鋸2x4、2x4PT隔斷木並標號
2.完成北邊剩餘部分測量
3.現有bolt照相,用3/16鑽頭轉mudsill孔,孔1、5深5”其餘3.5“,用螺絲大致固定UFP10後,鑽1/2x5"水泥孔,閉眼吹塵,毛刷再吹,要加epoxy用槍擠2下
4.釘2x4前bolt先拍照,安裝用20d釘子和單釘槍
5.複核膠合板寬、高
wk5-7:
1.按測量高度切割膠合板並劃釘線,預鑽3”通風孔並釘網防止老鼠
2.放鬆相關電線,用2-1/2 32度釘槍安裝膠合板
3.拍攝完成西牆照片3張
4.電話申請final inspection
5.退還不用的材料, URFP, epoxy, 2x4PT, etc.
wk8-9:final inspection
wk12-13:
遞交EBB完成材料,包括final inspection/發票收據/照片等,登陸後可知。由於我的發票有多張,把它集中成單個pdf,首頁是索引鏈接。提交後就不能改了。
=== Angle Steel bar addition
The 3' basement outside entry has dropped down 1/2" each side, it is because the two layer 2x4 top plates have upper layer interconnected-thus edges and lower one cracked at one side, and termite at the other. I bought 2x3x36" 1/4" thick angle steel and used 20ton jack to insert supporter at each side - 4x10-1/4" with thickness 2" and 1" respectively. After repair L/R side still lower 1/4 and 3/8".
===https://www.earthquakebracebolt.com/Portal/login gmail/S-1