“An unsuitable and degraded diet? Part two: realities of the mid-Victorian diet”,Journal of the Royal Society of Medicine,J R Soc Med. 2008 Jul 1; 101(7): 350–357.
該研究把維多利亞中期的英國勞工階級,按收入分成了高、中、低三檔。
最低的一檔:每周家庭收入低於1英鎊,夫妻或單親帶2~3個孩子。
即便如此低的收入,肉類仍然是食物中一個重要角色,但不可能是大塊烤肉的形式。周日晚餐一般有肉塊,內髒燉洋蔥,配菜有胡蘿卜,土豆,白菜或菜薊,還有羊脂糕點。周一吃周日剩下的燉肉,加麵包和色拉。周二、周三是帶骨的肉湯,加蔬菜和餃子(dumplings)。周四經常是動物油脂煮的大米或扁豆和洋蔥。周五是鯡魚(很便宜,1便士2條)或魚頭湯。周六常吃油炸的內髒,如牛腎。天天主食是麵包。也有簡單的甜食,比如麵包屑和薑末做的蘋果餅。夏天有新鮮水果,櫻桃又多又便宜。
茶是日常的飲料。最窮的人也喝咖啡,隻不過是菊苣和咖啡的混合物。早餐是麵包,偶爾會有黃油。午餐是麵包夾芝士或西洋菜。上半周,手頭寬裕一點,還可以加一碗街邊小攤賣的湯。
最高的一檔(熟練技工):每周家庭收入3~4英磅,夫妻帶3~4個孩子。
除了住房,交通,取暖,他們可以每周花1.2~2英鎊買食物,吃的就相當好了。細節我就不翻譯了:
“At this level of income it would be usual to have a roast dinner on Sunday, eaten cold on Monday with bought pickles, and cooked up in a form such as a curry on Tuesday. Typically a dish such as a steamed meat suet pudding would be served midweek, eaten cold the next day. Fish was commonly consumed on Friday and a quick meal such as pork chops or fried beefsteak would be served on Saturday. At all these meals, vegetables (in season) would be an important bulking feature: not just potatoes but onions (because of their cheapness), carrots, Jerusalem artichokes and green vegetables from cabbage to green beans. Desserts were also regularly served, often fruit or dairy-based – apple pies, rice or tapioca puddings, stewed or fresh fruit like gooseberries or cherries, in season. Tea with milk and often sugar was a common drink, with (black) coffee being served more rarely and generally at breakfast. Table (watered-down) beer was often served, especially to men.
Breakfast generally involved eggs (boiled or fried) on a Sunday, and possibly midweek, or porridge, made with milk; though by the end of the week that milk might well be half and half with water. Bread was served, usually toasted, possibly with butter and bought preserves like jam. Lunch generally took the form of sandwiches with paste, left-over meat, or watercress and cheese, commonly bought as cheap street food. Soup made from meat and vegetables, along with meat or vegetable pies and ham and watercress sandwiches, were street staples readily bought at this income level.“
作者在結論中說,維多利亞中期,即便對那些經濟狀況處於底層的家庭,他們的營養狀況也達到乃至超越了今天的標準(考慮到當時都是有機食品,而且由於沒有冰箱,人們都吃新鮮的)。
“…for those at the bottom of the economic scale there will have been additional difficulties due to financial instability. Nevertheless, the picture that emerges of mid-Victorian nutrition is remarkably positive, and one that matches or surpasses modern nutritional recommendations. If health benefits accrue from improved nutrition, as so many recent studies suggest, the mid-Victorians should have enjoyed a generally high standard of physical well-being.”