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到了雅典，曆史遺跡當然是要去瞻仰的，然而參觀博物館也是一項必不可少的內容，因為博物館是對曆史、藝術和文化的條理化。雅典之行接近尾聲的時候，我終於有了這樣一個機會。
按著地圖去找拜占庭－基督教博物館，然而碰到的第一個博物館卻是戰爭博物館。看書開卷有益，博物館也是。而且戰爭在古希臘占有非常重要的地位，有了戰爭，才有了青銅器的大發展，有了文學史上的驚天之作《荷馬史詩》。於是就走了進去。可惜那裏正在維修，看不到古希臘時期的硝煙戰火。隻看了二戰跟韓戰部分。希臘人也參加了韓戰，這讓我有些吃驚。大約還有許多希臘人死於中國人民誌願軍之手吧，展品中有好幾份用韓文寫的感謝信，都來自當時的總統。見到了許多輕武器，步槍、機槍、手槍。手槍有的袖珍得可以放在荷包裏，女士的小坤包裏，這也許就是勃郎寧手槍吧。手槍裏還有19世紀時候的樣式，興許那就是最早的了吧。很美很精製，精雕細刻，看去有擺設的功能。鎮壓太平天國時，洋槍隊使用的恐怕就是這種手槍，別看它不如大刀長矛巨大嚇人，卻遠比它們利害，這就是熱火器跟冷火器的區別。
出了戰爭博物館，走不遠就到了拜占庭－基督教博物館。拜占庭的藝術跟古希臘史前時期的藝術相比要粗劣很多，而且內容也極為拘謹單調，後期基督教藝術中幹脆扼殺了拜占庭藝術中花草蟲魚的成份，隻剩下了孤零零的十字架傲視和踐踏著藝術。這是公元7世紀到8世紀的事，那時正是所謂的中世紀。以前知道中世紀黑暗，但還比較抽象，現在看了這些基督教的藝術，對中世紀的黑暗就有了具象的認識。希臘史前的傳統是多神教，所以才有了對諸神的敬重和膜拜，好象中國春秋戰國時期的諸子百家的平等爭鳴。但希臘到了這一時期，隻有對上帝的誠惶誠恐。哲學是從希臘誕生的，泰勒斯、蘇格拉底、柏拉圖、赫拉克利特等等哲學家構成了人類曆史上最璀璨的精神星空，各種哲學學派傳道解惑、生氣盎然，然而到了這時期，宗教的專斷和蒙昧取代了哲學的思考和智慧，各種哲學學派遭到了圍剿和禁絕，希臘的自由精神遭到了空前絕後的強奸和踐踏。這種狀況跟伊甸園的淪落如出一轍。於今想來，還是令人噓唏。
那就去看公元前揚眉吐氣的希臘吧。國家博物館展示的就是這樣一個希臘。博物館分為三部分，許多是陪葬品，大約是公元前四千年的文物，如陶製品、裝飾品、武器、酒器和其他日常生活用品。這些展品無一不精妙絕倫。很有意思的是，其中還有天平。天平既可以用來度量生活中的實物，也被當成象征物來度量靈魂。天平的兩個盤上有蝴蝶圖案，代表靈魂。這與古老中華的認識居然不約而同，《梁祝》中有化蝶一幕，那蝶正是祝英台靈魂的物化。
另外還有許多雕塑，大大小小，都是公元前3000年到2500年的作品。其之逼真讓人叫絕。從腳趾到腳趾甲，從身上所披的衣服的褶皺到麵部五官的輪廓幾乎纖毫畢露，純粹超現實主義的手法。我不能不驚歎幾千年前古希臘人所達到的藝術高度，即使在今天，這等藝術也還堪稱一流。從這些雕塑中，我看到了健壯的希臘人、美麗的希臘人，快樂的希臘人。所謂文藝複興運動所依照的楷模就是這種希臘人，所要恢複的正是人的這種麵貌。
博物館就像是一本巨書。到了雅典，輕鬆地流連於古跡大街之餘，肅穆地參觀博物館也是一個精彩的節目。
I love ancient Greece mythology.Ancient Greek is such a deeply romantic nation who lived in the dreams.
In the early 1980's when I was in middle school , I got one book about ancient Greece mythology which had hundred stories and illustrations. it was my most loved book, it was also my first enlightenment to the western art. I keep the book until I came to America.
Ancient Greek created the best culture of mankind. the art and science, the philosophy , even the aesthetics which they founded,
still influence our modern world tremendously.
we are all in debt to the Greek. let's travel to Greek, supporting their economy.
I wish I was in Greek. Admiring you had the chance. hopefully I can go to Greek some day soon.
I love ancient Greece mythology.Ancient Greek is such a deeply romantic nation who lived in the dreams.
In the early 1980's when I was in middle school , I got one book about ancient Greece mythology which had hundred stories and illustrations. it was my most loved book, it was also my first enlightenment to the western art. I keep the book until I came to America.
Ancient Greek created the best culture of mankind. the art and science, the philosophy , even the aesthetics which they founded,
still influence our modern world tremendously.
we are all in debt to the Greek. let's travel to Greek, supporting their economy.
I wish I was in Greek. Admiring you had the chance. hopefully I can go to Greek some day soon.
I love ancient Greece mythology.Ancient Greek is such a deeply romantic nation who lived in the dreams.
In the early 1980's when I was in middle school , I got one book about ancient Greece mythology which had hundred stories and illustrations. it was my most loved book, it was also my first enlightenment to the western art. I keep the book until I came to America.
Ancient Greek created the best culture of mankind. the art and science, the philosophy , even the aesthetics which they founded,
still influence our modern world tremendously.
we are all in debt to the Greek. let's travel to Greek, supporting their economy.
I wish I was in Greek. Admiring you had the chance. hopefully I can go to Greek some day soon.
I love ancient Greece mythology.Ancient Greek is such a deeply romantic nation who lived in the dreams.
In the early 1980's when I was in middle school , I got one book about ancient Greece mythology which had hundred stories and illustrations. it was my most loved book, it was also my first enlightenment to the western art. I keep the book until I came to America.
Ancient Greek created the best culture of mankind. the art and science, the philosophy , even the aesthetics which they founded,
still influence our modern world tremendously.
we are all in debt to the Greek. let's travel to Greek, supporting their economy.
I wish I was in Greek. Admiring you had the chance. hopefully I can go to Greek some day soon.
I love ancient Greece mythology.Ancient Greek is such a deeply romantic nation who lived in the dreams.
In the early 1980's when I was in middle school , I got one book about ancient Greece mythology which had hundred stories and illustrations. it was my most loved book, it was also my first enlightenment to the western art. I keep the book until I came to America.
Ancient Greek created the best culture of mankind. the art and science, the philosophy , even the aesthetics which they founded,
still influence our modern world tremendously.
we are all in debt to the Greek. let's travel to Greek, supporting their economy.
I wish I was in Greek. Admiring you had the chance. hopefully I can go to Greek some day soon.
I love ancient Greece mythology.Ancient Greek is such a deeply romantic nation who lived in the dreams.
In the early 1980's when I was in middle school , I got one book about ancient Greece mythology which had hundred stories and illustrations. it was my most loved book, it was also my first enlightenment to the western art. I keep the book until I came to America.
Ancient Greek created the best culture of mankind. the art and science, the philosophy , even the aesthetics which they founded,
still influence our modern world tremendously.
we are all in debt to the Greek. let's travel to Greek, supporting their economy.
I wish I was in Greek. Admiring you had the chance. hopefully I can go to Greek some day soon.
I love ancient Greece mythology.Ancient Greek is such a deeply romantic nation who lived in the dreams.
In the early 1980's when I was in middle school , I got one book about ancient Greece mythology which had hundred stories and illustrations. it was my most loved book, it was also my first enlightenment to the western art. I keep the book until I came to America.
Ancient Greek created the best culture of mankind. the art and science, the philosophy , even the aesthetics which they founded,
still influence our modern world tremendously.
we are all in debt to the Greek. let's travel to Greek, supporting their economy.