正文

西風古道、黃沙漫漫,塞上牛羊空許約[組圖]

(2007-12-06 21:40:35) 下一個
去寧夏,來的突然,行的匆忙,走的倉促。西風古道、黃沙漫漫,那一刻的時光,比曇花還短促,穿了過去,呼嘯而來,而那些風景,我走過了,回來了,卻就此鐫刻心底,片刻成永恒。一萬年太漫長,五百年經不起輪回,此生,足矣。

2007.10 我的大話聖地行

有些風景在路上,有些風景就隻在心中


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一切,從這裏開始

寧夏西部鎮北堡影視城,這個位於銀川市區西北38公裏處的古城遺址,高天流雲,黃沙漫漫,背依莽蒼賀蘭山闋,觀山色空蔥;麵朝千古黃河,殘牆獨立;忽然而天,忽然而地,忽然悲涼,忽然竊喜。很多年前,在它附近南梁農場勞動改造的張賢亮來此趕集,當他穿過位於古堡北邊的胡楊林,遠遠地就被立於曠野之上的古堡震撼了,那種在沒有太陽時都是蒼黃一片孤獨的凹凸不平,卻又那般不屈不撓,讓當時身處困境的他深深感受到黃土地頑強的生命力。這種震撼一直延續到上個世紀八十年代,被他寫進小說裏。之後隨著亂世平定,人們從他筆下知曉還有這般古堡,而已身為作家的他也適時喊出“出賣荒涼”的口號,將此間的斷壁殘垣, 配上大漠孤煙,長河落日,再加上那些殘敗的屋舍和廢棄的城樓,統統打包,因地製宜, 創造出不同於其他任何景點的美。於是張藝謀來了、謝晉來了,王家衛來了、徐克來了,於是有了《牧馬人》《紅高梁》、《五魁》,也有了《東邪西毒》《大話西遊》、《新龍門客棧》。這是風景饋贈給影視城沒有曆史的蒼涼,也是喜好電影的人們的幸運。

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這一南一北的兩座城堡,靠公路邊的俗稱“老堡”,它建於明代弘治(明朝第九個皇帝明孝宗朱佑樘)十三年(公元1500年),為寧夏右屯所領的18屯堡之一,是防禦被趕出中原的殘元勢力入侵的西北軍事要塞。在清代被地震摧毀(我們現在看到的都是後世重修的),多稱之為“明城。”


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在老堡的東北邊的城堡,俗稱“新堡”,也稱之為“清城”,它是在“老堡”震毀約兩年後的清乾隆五年(公元1740年)修建而成。這種古堡當地俗稱“土圍攻子”,是我國西北地區特有的覆土建築,城堡牆體沒有一塊磚石,完全用糯米粘黃土夯築而成,經過數百年的歲月風霜,人為破壞,雄姿仍依稀可辨。

遠處,即是巍巍莽蒼賀蘭山


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春三十娘自大漠風塵仆仆而來,手持桃花獨倚門框處
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薑文當年就是在這裏唱著妹妹你大膽的往前走,“娘,娘,上西南,寬寬的大路長長的寶船。。。”

春三十娘也正是在此找尋著腳底板有三顆痣的轉世悟空


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三不澡堂,三十娘洗去滿身風塵的地方

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頭頂正上方懸空的就是當年花費十一萬設計的恐怖蜘蛛精

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華麗麗地牛魔王娶親場

我的意中人是個蓋世英雄,有一天他會踩著七色的雲彩來娶我

我望眼欲穿,你立地成佛

我猜不透,猜不透


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盤絲洞(原來它實際高不過兩米)

它的前生是水簾洞,來世是菩提洞,卻獨獨不是盤絲洞

一個人的心最後就變得像這洞口,洞裏洞外都看得通透,終於再沒有什麽讓誰為誰淚水滔滔不絕,愛恨嗔癡,終於無怨無痕。

大話最後,帶上金箍的至尊寶站在洞口,回望那瀝盡滄海滴淚的一眼,自以為永遠不會忘記的人和事終於還是被忘記。

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整體而言,明城的景點相對集中,

站在這些曾經誕生出無數經典電影,留下眾多影人足跡的地方,每個角落都似曾相識


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歐陽鋒當年遠眺的涼亭
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龍門客棧,明城裏最為豪華的建築(不過隻是圖有其表)

1992年,徐克以其天馬行空的想像力和對武俠世界獨有的浪漫與投入翻拍而成的新龍門客棧是在東邪西毒之前我最喜歡的故事

當年張曼玉就是在此淺笑盈盈,綺年花貌,何等的風情萬種。龍門客棧裏來去的男人都逃不過她金鑲玉的溫柔一刀,人心鋒利如刀的爭鬥,也消磨不了她的如花笑靨


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每個故事的開始總是燦爛如花

每個故事的結束都是沉默如土

就讓時間的沙把我掩埋

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那日你說“曾經有一份真誠的愛情放在我麵前,我沒有珍惜,等到失去的時候我才後悔莫及,人世間最痛苦的事莫過於此,”
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西夏,這個我國曆史上唯一也是最後以黨項族為主體建立的王朝,沒有哪個王朝比他更令人可悲可歎,也沒有哪個民族如他一樣迅速消亡,隻留下一個又一個無解的謎團。我們隻能依尋殘存碑文上刀槍劍戟一般消瘦傲骨的文字和拚湊複製的文物,一點點猜測想像著曾經的西夏文明
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當年蒙古軍隊在這裏是做過最細致認真的焚燒和砸毀,居然還能在地表上留下如此的痕跡,這不能不更讓人嗟歎。
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