Tomas Maier
不要嫌我囉嗦，我對Maier是十分喜愛的，主要是他對事物的態度與看法。在舊雜誌上看到此文，摘錄於此。現在也學聰明了，摘錄加注，編譯起來太累，況且大家都識洋文，就不必脫褲子放P。
"Often in fashion companies, there is tension and drama. There are too many personalities and divas," remarks Finnish stylist Tiina Laakkonen, a Chanel alum who has now worked with Maier for two seasons. "But here, nobody's nervous. Nobody's dramatic; nobody shouts. And," she adds, "it's always like that."
不管事情有多忙，表麵上看上去都要鎮靜，自信，有條不紊。哪怕有千斤重擔，都不要寫在臉上，免得引起更大範圍的恐慌。早點計劃，好好準備，考慮可能出現的意外並想好對策，就不會慌亂。山崩於前而色不變。
If the 50-year-old Maier is a consistent voice of reason among hysteria-prone designers, his products for Bottega Veneta are the ultimate understatement in a world of look-at-me luxury goods. With no logos, no unsightly hardware, no gimmicks, and certainly no gadgets, Bottega Veneta products do not whine for attention. Maier, who started at the 42-year-old Italian luxury-goods house in 2001 after working at Hermès, will not put up with a screamer.
不同性格的人，喜歡不同的東西。我喜歡湮沒在人群中，躲在後麵看熱鬧，最怕被擺到台麵上，沒出息啊。
Take the Cabat (from the French cabas, or shopping basket), one of the first bags he designed for Bottega Veneta. Made from four layers of woven napa leather, this open bag is entirely embellishment, branding, and bling free. For two days, its leather strands are lovingly woven together over a rectangular model by a little lady in a crisp brown lab coat at Bottega's factory in
嘿嘿，就是喜歡下過功夫做的東西。上次有篇文章上說Cabat是Working Bag的意思，當時就覺得有點牽強，Shopping Basket更符合包型，不就是“菜籃子”嗎？
"I always like an object that is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside," says Maier of its impeccable construction. "That's what luxury is all about. It's very personal. Nobody needs to know."
對啊，要的就是暗爽。不明白的人也不用明白，隻有自己高興就行，所以個人的感受最重要。
"I don't like It bags, and we don't do It bags," he says firmly. "A bag doesn't become important because you put it in an ad campaign or on the arm of a celebrity or because it's the bag of the season and you say there's a waiting list. That's bullshit. It's just marketing. People always talk about these bags being unavailable, and it's total crap."
嚴重同意。至今為止，沒買任何IT包，他們都沒能打動我。不論是機車還是大鎖，到後來就不知道誰是ＩＴ了。希望擁有的東西能長久，不管是愛情，還是包包，還是一件衣服。有點一根筋。
At Bottega, a style stays in the collection as long as there is demand for it. "A bag becomes important because women decide," says Maier. Without the maelstrom of one-season promotion, the bags are given their time to take root and become favorites. Each season, Maier tinkers with their design, perfecting invisible imperfections. They are not poisoned by overexposure, they do not go on sale, and they are never deemed out of style by their maker.
"First square, now round! No, you're supposed to buy oversize!" shouts Maier, cringing at the usual fashion diktats charged seasonally by designers. "No, you're stupid, you were supposed to buy the fringes! Personally, I think it's wrong."
The idea of creating either clothing or accessories that are cool now and destined for the back of the closet next year is "completely contrary to my process," declares Maier. "I tell a woman that something is good, and then six months later I tell her it's good again." Largely, this works because of Maier's progressive design process. Each ready-to-wear collection, which he first debuted on the runway in 2004, grows organically from the last. He isn't shocking the fashion world or making abrupt about-face style statements. He prefers to work out design problems and to perfect already existing items rather than reinvent the wheel. His latest obsession is pleats, which were created for a new spring/summer dress in weightless cotton poplin. "I'm really fond of that because it's not easy to do," he says of the irregular pattern that was pinned, pressed, and stitched down by hand. And then there's the built-in underwear he insisted on for his sheer dresses. "If you bought this dress and there was no undergarment, you'd be searching around for days for the right underwear and wondering what the solution was. That's not fair. If you design something, you need to design it all the way through."
That is owing to the expertise of Bottega's artisans, some of whom have been working in the factory for more than 40 years. The bags and clothes receive as much hand-holding as kindergartners and are just as spoiled. Maier, for example, would never scrimp on their handcrafted quality in order to create a secondary line. "I'm not going to give the same product at lower prices," he says, wincing. "What would my customer think of that?"
不生產二線衣服。我的意思也是，如果沒有最好的或買不起最好的，寧缺不求其次。小時候，我媽帶去買衣服，我什麽都不買，我媽還以為我是好孩子，知道勤儉，殊不知是沒看上。
The beauty of Maier's clothing is its quiet simplicity, which often betrays the complicated, well-thought-out construction lurking beneath the surface. You may not see any of this because Maier loathes unnecessary statements. "I hate decorative details that have no purpose," he notes. "I love buckles, for example, but I hate it when I see a jacket covered with buckles that have snaps behind them and it's all fake."
And if some people don't appreciate the subtlety at work, well, that's fine with this designer. "I'm just trying to make some people who are looking for something particular happy," Maier says with a sigh, aware that even he cannot change the taste buds of the world's population. "I'm not a dictator and I'm not a judge. Let the people live."
品味是可以發展和變化的，也是可以被影響的。你們就是我的影響。給我時間去認知更多，給我耐心去完善。
你該減點了。
