Camping in High Mountains - 高山露營（圖）

An unwritten policy has been in place for years: stay home during major holidays. This is obviously a way to avoid driving in heavy traffic under the influence of alcohol and other vices. This year, however, we made an exception to go camping in the High Sierras during the 4th of July weekend. As seasoned campers we are aware of the fact that most campgrounds are booked solid during major holiday weekends. But we also know quite a few places that don't take reservations and operate on "first come, first serve" basis. In other words, if one gets to the campground early enough, chances are that one might find an open spot. With that in mind, we got up around 6 in the morning on Friday, July 4, and left home around 7 o'clock. 這些年裏一直遵循一條不成文的原則：大的節日不出門。 這也不失為不與堵車，酗酒和其它危險為伍的一種方法。今年例外，我們決定利用 7 月 4 日獨立節的周末去內華達山脈（ High Sierras ）帳篷旅遊。常出去搭帳篷所以也知道節日的周末，營地一般是人滿為患；同時也知道相當一部分營地不接受預約，按‘先來後到’分配住處。也就是說，如果去的夠早，找到一地的機會還是有的。這樣，我們周五也就是七月四號早上六點起床，七點左右就從家出發了。 Even though California Route 4 is officially a state highway, for most part it's nothing but a well-paved two-way country road that goes straight in the flat lands and winds around in the hills. Under normal circumstances it takes roughly three hours to drive from San Francisco Bay Area to the Sierra Nevada. But we took a half hour break for breakfast at the halfway point. As a result, we arrived at Lake Alpine around 11 o'clock. Lake Alpine locates just before the Ebbetts Pass on the West side of the High Sierra. Even after a dozen visits, I always take great delight in the pristine environment created by the rocks, trees, water and flowers at this part of the world. 加州 4 號公路名義上是州立高速，其實也就是兩道線的鄉間大道，路麵平整些罷了，平地顯直，山坡處彎多，如此這般。正常情況下，從舊金山灣區到內華達山（也叫 Sierra Nevada ）隻需 3個多 小時的車程。我們半路吃早餐用去半個多小時，所以到達高山湖（ Lake Alpine ）時，已經是 11 點鍾了。高山湖位於大山西側，就在艾百刺山口（ Ebbetts Pass ）下麵。此地我們以前多次來訪，但每次來到這裏，那岩石、樹木、河流、鮮花構成的美景都令人覺得心曠神怡。 Most of the time we dread about driving through the extreme hot condition of California's Central Valley for sometimes it reaches 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius). This year we were lucky. For whatever reason, the sky was overcast for more than half of the day. The thin clouds sheltered us from the scorching summer sun. Even when we arrived at Lake Alpine, the sky was still largely gray. So the lake didn't shine at first; and we didn't mind the grayness a bit. 每次來我們都對開車穿過加州中部山穀心有餘悸，因為夏日的溫度可高達華氏 100 （攝氏 38 ）度。可今年我們有些幸運呢：頭半天時間天空有薄雲覆蓋。陽光因此柔弱了許多。到了高山湖，天空還顯灰色。湖麵就沒有了往日波光粼粼的景色，這些都不足以令人遺憾。  There are 4 sizeable campgrounds immediately around Lake Alpine, with a few more in the half-mile radius. We camped at the Pine Martin Campground on the East Shore of Lake Alpine last August; so, this year we wanted to try the West Shore which came up first anyway. When we got there, the "Campground Full" sign was up; and then the Lake Alpine Campground host was nowhere to be found. That was a bit disappointing. But no worries, for we could easily zip around the lake and try out luck at other sites. 高山湖周圍 露營地有四處，半英裏之內還有好幾家。去年 8 月，我們在湖東岸的鬆燕（ Pine Martin ） 營住了一次。今年，我們想嚐試一下西岸的風光；西岸離得也近些。可到了那裏卻看到了 “ 露營地客滿 ” 的牌子，而高山湖營地的管理人亦不見蹤影。稍稍有些掃興。其實不用擔心的，因為我們繞湖轉那麽一下，還可以到別處碰碰運氣。 Ah, Pine Martin came up first. The "Campground Full" sign was also up. But the host was in. When we asked him if there was anything opening up, he responded affirmatively, with a friendly manner and Texan accent. That was very nice. 首先映入眼簾的又是鬆燕營地，這兒的 “ 露營地客滿 ” 的牌子也高高懸起。但是營地管理人在崗。此人態度和藹、說話一口漂亮的德克薩斯口音，熱情地給了我們一個 “ 有地方 ” 的回答。聽了讓人心裏舒暢。 Naturally we asked him about the old couple who hosted us last year. "Homer" the old gentleman had some heart condition and had to retire, so we were told. That was too bad, for we still remembered some stories Homer related to us. 我們自然問起去年管理露營地的那對夫婦 , 得 知老先生 Homer 由於心髒問題不得不退休。這太遺憾了，因為我們一直記得 “Homer” 給我們講的一些故事。 Last year we camped next to the host. So, we talked with the old couple often. When we asked Homer if there were any bears coming at night, he said "yes." As a matter of fact, one old grizzly bear came once in a while to visit old Homer. Homer the grizzly man would give the old grizzly bear some food. Homer also held a one-way conversation with the bear. The bear would finished the food provided and leave without bothering any of the campers. 去年，我們的營地與管理人相鄰，時常裏攀談。當我們問道晚上是否會有熊前來時， Homer 說“熊當然有 ” 。他說有一隻年老的灰熊常來拜訪他，其實就是討食吃來了。熊來了， Homer 就跟熊說話，那熊隻管吃，吃完就搖搖晃晃的溜了，從不打攪其他露營者。 With the help of the host, we got the campsite closest to the lake. The tent was pitched and the water was inviting to swimming enthusiasts. I am not a swimmer so I took my camera for mountain trekking. 在新管理員的幫助下，我們居然得到了離湖最近的那個營地。支起帳篷後，遊泳愛好者在覬覦充滿誘惑的湖水。我不喜歡遊泳，就帶上相機向山裏進發。 The sky was opening up a bit as I parked by the freeway at the Stanislaus Meadow trailhead. There were a large horde of cows with giant bells around their necks，deafening to the ears. 車到斯丹尼斯勞斯草地（ Stanislaus Meadown）人行 入路口時，天空一下子亮堂起來。草地上有一大群牛，脖子上係著巨大的鈴鐺，震耳欲聾。 Soon, I was at the bottom of the valley and the river was gurgling, and the rock formations amazing. 不久就見到穀底了，小河逶迤，潺潺有聲。岩層奇特，令人刮目相看 。    The sky finally became blue and bright. 蔚藍的天空，潔白的雲彩。  After becoming lost for a short while, I finally reached my destination of the day, Bull Run Lake. It's a real alpine lake, just under the majestic Bull Run Peak. 走失了一段路後，最終找到了當天的目的地：跑牛湖（ Bull Run Lake ）， 那是跑牛山下一座的真正的高山湖泊。   It was a lot of walking up and down the mountains but the view was totally worth the effort. 上上下下，翻山越嶺，路沒少走；可這美景色又讓人覺得一切都值。 Some sights will linger in one's mind a long time; some views will last a lifetime. 有些景色注定要在記憶裏長留，更有的景色會讓人終生回味。 When I got back late in the afternoon and found everyone worried, I realized that I was gone a long time already. 傍晚回到露營地，看到人人麵有憂色，方才意識到今天確實走的太久。 Still after dinner of delicious BBQ meat, salad, watermelon and beer, I decided to get high on the hill behind the lake, Inspiration Point it was called. The view is precious there. 晚飯有美味的燒烤，沙拉、西瓜和牛肉。吃了飯，餘興未消，又去攀登湖後麵的一座叫做靈感崖（ Inspiration Point ）的小山，從那裏看景，猶如仙境。 The evening sunlight brought the pine trees and mountains some wonderful profiles. 落霞的餘輝將鬆樹和群山輝映得格外耀眼。 I had been up here last year and saw Duck Lake from a bird's eye view. Though the Lake was completely in the shadow of the hill, I still marveled at the sight. 去年我曾來過此景點，居高鳥瞰野鴨湖（ Duck Lake ）。此刻湖被山所遮擋，可那湖景依然令人讚歎不已。  On my way down, I saw quite a few meadows full of beautiful flowers. 下山途經山花盛開的草地。  Whew, that was quite a day. Sleep became easier, even in cold temperature of the 7000 feet and above, because I was rather exhausted at night. 一天就這樣過去了！人累了，海拔 7000 英尺的高地，即使很冷，也能酣然入睡。 So many stars in the night sky; but I was too tired to stay up long, even around a marvelous bonfire. In the morning chirping birds woke us up. Lake Alpine let out some thin mist. It was like a fairyland. 繁星點點，篝火熊熊，隻是我太累了，早早就入帳篷睡了。淩晨，小鳥嘰喳，猛地醒來，隻見湖麵泛起一層薄靄，猶如仙境！ I got up around 7 in the morning. It was early and cold as I had to stay by the bonfire to keep myself warm. Then I realized that I didn't have much time to waste. We had planned to leave the campground for home around midday and I wished to visit Rock Lake, which I soon found out was some four and a half miles away, across quite a few hills and rivers and through and around many forests. 七點鍾起來。淩晨的空氣十分寒冷，不得不圍著篝火取暖。突然意識到所餘時間不多了！我們計劃中午離開營地回家，我還想去看一下岩湖（ Rock Lake ）呢。此湖離我們營地有 4.5 英裏之遠！中間要跨越幾座山、幾道河流和許多樹林子。 Alone in the mountains, I could clearly see that I am devious by nature. This eventually led me astray in the mountains. 一人在山中趕路，我才清楚看倒自己性格裏的反叛本色。 The previous day I was already a bit lost in search of Bull Run Lake. The lesson learned was "stay on the trail." When travelling in the mountains unfamiliar, the trail serves as the only guide for one to find one's way in and out of the mountains. Being lost could lead to some grave consequences. 昨天我在尋找跑牛湖的路上就走失了。今天還在告誡自己：沿著山路走。在不熟悉的山中，小路是進出山的唯一向導。在山中迷路可不是鬧著玩的，有時會後果嚴重。 However, the trail to Rock Lake was very narrow, winding around many rock hills, boulders, rivers, and forests. In certain sections, the bushes were so thick that the trail become buried. The only wonderful thing was that wild flowers were at their prime, without being disturbed by foot traffic. 可這通往岩湖路也委實太窄小了，彎彎曲曲繞過許多小山、巨石、河流和樹林。有些路段因灌木茂密變得難以辨認。唯一能安慰人的是，茂盛的野花因為沒有遊人的腳踏手采，開得漫山遍野，春意盎然。 The road was long and tedious；and I didn't even see a living thing like a deer. In boredom I was planning, unconsciously some shortcuts for the return trip. 這路也忒長，路途讓人覺得枯燥寂寞！一路沒不見生物，連一隻鹿也沒有。腦子空了就邊走邊想回來時如何縮短路程。 I found Rock Lake around 10 o'clock. Then I had to hurry back to make the midday departure from the campground at Lake Alpine. Such a hurry eventually contributed to my being lost. Up a ridge I thought I could cut a direct line across a seemingly flat forest floor. But no, the trail was never to be found. 十點鍾左右到了岩湖。不能久留，得即刻回返，因為約好中午離開營地。這一匆忙也是讓我走失的另一因素。上了一個山脊，我自以為能穿過一片看似平坦的林子再回到山路上。隻是那山路從此沒了蹤影。 Now between me and the campground were large territory of rock ridges and deep gorges. The sun was high and the rocks were reflecting heat back into the air, scorchingly hot. 擋在回程的路上有一大片巨大的石梁和峽穀，烈陽當頭，從石頭反射的熾熱在灼燒著空氣裏的一切。 The walking and climbing part was hard but it was something I could manage, for I was in reasonable shape. The feeling of being lost, however, wasn't that marvelous. I remember that earlier in the morning when I passed some huge rocks, I thought that I would tell my son where my ashes should be scattered after I die. The doubt in the mind was: would I ever get back to my son to tell him where exactly those rocks were? 山道艱辛，但我體力尚好，還能應對。隻是這迷路的感覺不甚美妙！早上看到一些石山，曾想到回去告訴兒子過世後應該將骨灰撒在那裏。可現在的頭腦已不能肯定能不能回得去。回不去如何告訴兒子那巨石的具體位置？ Thank goodness, it was an exceptionally bright day, for from miles away I could see the Inspiration Point I went up last evening. It was a weird looking mount, composed of half-baked dirt (volcanic lava) and reddish rocks, but appeared rather unique thus easily recognized among granite peaks and pine groves. 天公作美，今兒個天高氣爽！好幾裏之外也能看到靈感崖，昨晚我還上去過哩。一座怪裏怪氣的山包，火山岩漿色土石堆成，在一片石山和鬆林之間還很惹眼呢。 I might have prolonged my trip by jumping over huge rocks and wading through rivers. But I did get back to the campground only about half hour behind schedule. 這一通攀岩涉水也許延長了我的旅途，但我回到了營地，隻比預定時間隻晚半小時多些。 The lesson of the day was: when you become lost, in the mountains or not, stay calm. In the mountains, if you recognize a point of familiarity, aim at it and cut a straight line towards it. Of course, to get to that point, one must overcome any harsh obstacles in between, be it a huge mountain or a deep river. Go straight, you will be back eventually. Only when one can overcome the seemingly impossible, it becomes possible to get back. Finally, impossibility or despair only exists in one's mind. In other words, most of the time we are overcoming ourselves to come home. 教訓是深刻的：如果迷路，深山中也罷，平地上也好，首先要保持頭腦冷靜。在山裏，如果能看到一個熟悉的景點，照直朝那兒走。這一路肯定會遇到一些巨大障礙，山高水深。但不能猶豫，一直往前走，就能走出去。一個人隻有戰勝了一切不可能，才能到達終點。許多時候不可能和絕望隻是內心的感覺而已。說到底，要想回家，就必須克服自己。 Once back, don't relay your adventure to immature people. What I don't like is that those who had no experience of harsh or extreme conditions love to lecture others what "you should" or "you shouldn't do." 回來了，一般不要向不成熟的人講什麽曆險記。那些沒有經曆任何極端困難的人動撤就開口教訓別人 “ 應該 ” 或 “ 不應該 ” 做什麽，聽起來很煩的。 You do what you have to do, in life, and you accept all the consequences, even though some consequences are really, really bad. 這就是生活：你做了該做的，然後坦然麵對結局，即使那結局很糟，很糟 ……