秘魯深度遊：利馬

經過十個小時的輾轉，終於在淩晨兩點多到達利馬，半夜的機場依然人聲鼎沸，6月開始是祕魯旅遊旺季，許多遊客就地休息等待明天一大早的航班飛庫斯科。我和S嫂懷著許多興奮，一點忐忑，全部期待，跟著事先安排好來接機的的哥潛入這充滿海腥味，潮濕但從不下雨的南美都市。

這裏是秘魯的簡介。

 

城市大廣場。

城市大廣場。

利馬大教堂。

我們住宿的幾個街口之遙就是海邊，好區地段在拜仁克區Barranco District。

我們寄住的人家。

秘魯是玉米原產地，這裏的大玉米不會很甜但很Q且香！

利馬盛產各種水果，天然純果汁質量好得無法形容，價格親民得更是一塌糊塗，街市裏一杯鮮榨橙汁才2個索爾，不到人民幣5元！今天的早餐是圈圈油條配橙汁，還沒開吃滿足已經蕩漾開來，你看到了嗎？

咖啡在這裏不受重視，色彩是永遠的主題。

果然術業有專攻，擦鞋亦不例外。如此明鑒照人的效果，今天算是見識了！

“我也要防暴”！ 遠據說至今還有反政府的遊擊隊，利馬首都可以處處看到防暴警察，他們看到了S嫂就不夠嚴肅了。

S嫂：”回頭率，還不低哦“！ 
 

來以前據說這個動作很危險，亂座黑車會被綁架，雲雲。這個城市有自成一格的隱形秩序和默契，比如所有出租車都不打表，乘客上車前必須跟司機談妥價格，有執照的沒執照的魚龍混雜相安無事。我的西班牙語居然已能夠與當地司機砍價的程度了，少了這樣的經曆何談深度遊呢？

瞧眼前這位司機大哥，自備一個簡易Taxi標誌，拿下放上隨心所欲。所幸無論正規與否，一旦價格達成共識，服務都很到位，憨厚有禮，令人心生敬意。外來者窺探一種人文，從陌生打量到試探性介入再到如魚得水，有一種難以表述的欣慰和長籲濁氣一口的舒暢。我想旅行的妙處便在於此。

這裏是喵星人的天堂！

 

Strad 秘魯六月2013

 

Yma Sumac claimed that she was an Incan princess, directly descended from Atahualpa. Yma Sumac (pronounced /ˈiːmə ˈsuːmæk/; September 13, 1922 -- November 1, 2008) was a noted Peruvian soprano. In the 1950s, she was one of the most famous proponents of exotica music and became an international success, based on the merits of her extreme vocal range, which was said to be "well over four octaves" and was sometimes claimed to span even five octaves at her peak. Yma Sumac recorded an extraordinarily wide vocal range of more than four octaves from B2 to C#7 (approximately 123 to 2270 Hz). She was able to sing notes in the low baritone register as well as notes above the range of an ordinary soprano. Both low and high extremes can be heard in the song Chuncho (The Forest Creatures) (1953). She was also apparently able to sing in an double voice.