Under the Milky Way 29: From O Pino to Santiago de Compostela

June 26, Monday, Day 29, Pedrouzo (O Pino) to Santiago de Compostela, distance: about 19 km.

The walk began at 6:30am this morning. Short distance, great road condition. I felt great, and was overjoyed – it had been a while since I walked a distance below 20 km. I certainly had much to feel ecstatic, and to celebrate, right? Against many odds, I walked as far as here… A sense of pride and accomplishment arose… 

My last day of walking on the Camino Frances. I walked with a new Camino friend from Arizona, J. This handsome fellow once taught English in Chinese for several years, and married a Chinese wife. They had a daughter, “Apple of his eye,” – in his words. J decided to walk part of the Camino, and wanted to camp in the woods with his hammock when he felt like it. I saw an authentic pilgrim’s spirit in him, casual, free-spirited, and spend the nights wherever his feet might take him…

The sun peeked from behind the clouds, providing me with gentle rays in the woods, on the hills. Since I had been outdoors so much, between the sun and me, there was a love and fear on my part. See how much I had gotten sun-burnt!

A young man brought his dog with him to walk the Camino. (From Sarria to the final destination).The dog was so devoted to him, and so smart, that it would walk either by his side, or a few yards ahead of him, then turn around and wait until he caught up or what “daddy” had to say… I loved watching them communicate in so many ways. I called myself a “fan,” and asked for a photo opportunity. They both graciously agreed. I was so flattered that I felt as if I met a celebraity!  

10 more miles to go! I thought about so many things that happened along the Way, and still so much to look forward to!

It's 9:30, time to cheer up my tummy :-) Sitting here, enjoying some food and drink, savoring/relishing the peaceful moments, I couldn't help but burst into tears! What was happening to me??!! Was it reluctance? Sadness? Excitement? Overwhelm? Or was I losing my mind? Let the tears flow! Find a secluded place to cry, and let the tears flush away any blurred thoughts, clarifying my mind to its fullest...

If it was because something beautiful was about to end, then I should remember Robert Frost's poem: "...Nothing gold can stay..." — remember? I had once debated with my teacher about this line, disagreed with her and the poet, saying that it was such a pessimistic thought, now I couldn’t agree with them more!

If it was due to hardship and suffering along the Way, then I should reminisce about the joyful moments I had experienced.

If the pilgrimage journey had deeply affected me, if it had tested my spirit, exhausted my body, starved my shell and soul, and emptied me thoroughly, then I should bravely and willingly face and accept this improved version of myself. I should rejoice, I should be jubilant, I should be grateful, I should celebrate! Weren't these my intentions from the start?

What I should be doing was to –

Think about this moment, cherish every second, let this moment extend infinitely...

After my tears and thoughts had their moment of cleansing, I hit the road again! Passersby were all excited, snapping pictures of the destination just within reach. I couldn't resist joining in! The excitement was overwhelming! After nearly a month of walking and much anticipation, the destination was finally so close, so suddenly in my sight! How could I prevent myself from being too excited and jubilant?

Antique/quintessential-looking abstract art.

Entering the city proper of Santiago – a name I had repeated in my mind hundreds of times in the past few months as I had planned for, prepared for, and walked the Holy Path! Every sign related to the pilgrimage route started to evoke a whirlwind of emotions in me, my mood "rippling" with mixed feelings!!

 

“Rippling” or not, entering the city didn't mean reaching the true destination yet! First, I had to find a bed, unload the backpack, and find the right way to the Cathedral. I could see its steeple from far away, but how should I get there through the maze of the city streets? 

Nevertheless, truth be told, the real end was near! How could I contain my excitement when I was SO close?! A loud cheer escaped my throat, and my feet felt like they were bouncing on springs, just like a child... But the hotel hadn't opened yet! It was only 12:15pm. Why did one o'clock seem to come so slowly??

I could take a walk, find a quiet space to rest a bit. There it was – a park nearby! I could wait there patiently – snack a little, nap a bit! Perhaps this was a test after all! A reality check for delayed gratification??!! Just look at this beautiful park! Wasn't it enough to feast my eyes and nourish my mind? A resident couple were walking a dog, and it showed all kinds of tricks, entertaining me!! A wise-woman, my former boss once told me – things happen for a reason, and people always end up where they should be. True?? 

I could walk around a bit more. After many days of walking, I was still safe and sound – it must have been by divine grace! How else could I explain the predicaments I went through, but came out alright?? I must have been the luckiest of the lucky ones!

I was starving! Got to have another feast with my good friend L! Time to indulge my Asian taste buds again :-) Was this the third time to be connected to my roots food-wise since the pilgrimage?

After settling the “hungry wolf” in me/us, we could finally get down to business! We quickly walked to the Pilgrim Office near the Cathedral. The pride and joy I felt when receiving the certificate were indescribable, but alas, my limited abilities revealed! – why hadn’t I studied harder or learned more back in school days??!! It's a pity one only realizes the value of something when it's needed the most! That moment, I needed a grand ability I had failed to acquire for expressing myself, for speech, for writing, for singing, and for amazing flows of impressive dances!!! Yet I could perform none of it…

I vowed as I “felt the pinch” that I ought to venture more inspirational journeys ahead, see more personal growth, grittiness, and true inner strength... 

The certificate in the top left corner proved that I reached my destination. The one below confirmed that I walked 650 kilometers. I deducted the distance covered by bus rides from the total! …still … feeling proud … of the accomplishment...

In the square of the Cathedral, crowds gathered as the pilgrims filed there from various directions, just like what the scallop shells had implied all along the Camino routes. I couldn't help but unabashedly have fun there, posing this way and that, with fellow pilgrims and without…

Having a blast with many others… At that moment, celebrating seemed to be the sole mission! All gears seemed to be highlighted!!

Even more so, ever more childish and ridiculous, I couldn’t help but to jump up high, forgetting everything else… (Where was your manner, girl? Your reserved composition? 

Here came one of the most unforgettable evening events – the heart-stirring and tear-inducing pilgrimage mass at 7pm.

The silver incense burner (a smoke expeller), Botafumeiro in Galician since the 19th-century,  held something “auspicious” (a term that I took the liberty to use for my interpretation.) It is said that its initial intention was to eliminate various dust, smells/odors and germs that the pilgrims had accumulated and carried with them over the past few weeks throughout their pilgrimmage. As the Botafumeiro swings high and wide in the air, it releases a lingering strong, soothing and healing aroma. At that moment, I seemed to feel a baptism of my body and mind, a purification through and through. My heart was filled with boundless gratitude...

My mind seemed to be going gazillion miles per second – the flashbacks of the doctor's reminders and warnings in Leon, and the reality of my presence in the grand Cathedral in Santiago. In the midst of it all, I once again deeply felt that this opportunity of pilgrimage, and the once-in-a-lifetime experiences I had the mighty honor to see myself through, was a blessing from the heavens!!! I stood there, so excited and mesmerized, that I was speechless, vowing to myself then and there that I must cherish this moment, and strive to live in the present with all my might.

The seat I took in the Cathedral turned out to be at an awkward angle for pictures and videos. Thus I turned to Youtube for help. Here is a professionally made video by the team of Rick Steves, the widely-known American tourism expert, who generously shared many world-traveling tips and resources.

Keyword:
Be grateful
Live in the moment