Under the Milky Way 22: From Foncebadon to Ponferrada, via Cruz

June 19, Day 22, from Foncebadon to Ponferrada, about 27 km.

Today was intense both mentally and physically, due to the exertion of hiking and the day to lay down the rocks, the mental concerns, worries and burdens. Along the way, there are many steep inclines and declines, uneven road surfaces, and lots of loose rocks...
https://weepingredorger.wordpress.com/2015/02/11/foncebadon-province-of-leon/

Furthermore, along the way, there was a place that marked the highest point of this Camino, Cruz de Ferro, at an altitude of 1504 meters. There stood a towering Iron Cross since the 11th century. Beneath the cross lay thousands of stones, large and small—some inscribed with names, some adorned with drawings, and some simply with symbolic items, pictures of  departed family members and friends.

It is said that it’s a tradition since pilgrimage began: individuals can carry a small stone from home or carry several for family and friends. Each stone is inscribed with the name of oneself or a loved one. These stones symbolize the burdens, worries, anxieties, or discomforts endured by the inscriber or their loved ones in the past, or in the present. The things could be something that weighs heavily on the heart or suffocates the mind. When reaching this part of the journey, individuals lay down their stones, symbolically shedding their burdens and embarking on life anew with lighter hearts, lighter weight. This act provides a sense of ritual, signaling the release of what needs to be let go, the expression of what needs to be expressed, and a wish for greater wisdom, courage, and strength from Heaven to overcome difficulties and help individuals emerge from adversity with a stronger spirit, aiming for a lighter and more joyful stride, to embark on a fresh journey of life.

It turned out there were only 14 people stayed in the room, with two vacant beds. By 10pm, the lights were out. Some fell asleep earlier than that. 
Before 5am, some roommates started to hustle to head out. Even though the lights were still off, flashlights and headlights from them were on, lighting this way and that. I forgot to use my eye-shade last night, thus the lights and early-morning noise symphony launched – the door opening and closing, the beds squeaking, zippers on and off, plastic bags closing and opening,  people coughing, whispering … Who needed an alarm o’clock! Forget about sleeping more. I got up, began to stuff my sleeping bag in the sack, eyes closed. I quickly brushed and washed, packed my stuff and headed out.
On my way out, I grabbed a coffee, a banana – would these be enough to wake me up?  

For a lighter hike today, I shipped my luggage forward. I only needed to carry a small backpack, with water and a few other items. 
The App and some fellow peregrinos reminded me that there would be a long descent today. Sometimes, ignorance could be a blessing – ignorance meant that I was fearless. I marched on as usual. The daybreak was near. I was an early riser today, and would walk to the highest point. Wishing for good weather and an amazing sunset! 

Religious symbols along the Way. No exception for the village of Foncebadon. At this point, I already felt the ascent! Breathless!

Glad to see a slight chance for a sunset. 

The milestone showed 236.6 km to Santiago de Compostela. Keep chugging along!

This five (5)-meter tall wooden pole can be seen from distance, on top of which sits the Iron Cross, in Spanish, Cruz de Ferro (“Iron Cross” in English). When I glanced the pictures online, I thought this place was deep in the woods. Not so! It stands by the roadside, about two (2) kilometers away from last night’s albergue. It was a very short and quick hike!  

Unfortunately, the sun didn't present us with a memorable sunrise that day. An overcast morning! What a perfect day for hiking! Why have I always been so lucky? As I approached the site of the Iron Cross, I saw countless stones, each inscribed with blessings, prayers, and words of heartfelt wishes. Various heavy emotions, burdens that could no longer be carried, were all left here for people to pray together, for celestial beings to resolve, for vegetation to dissolve, for the universe to witness, to understand, to empathize, and to share... I walked around, stood still for a long time, alone, quietly praying... being there in harmony with nature. In that place, I sat alone. It was so quiet that I could hear my own heartbeats. Birdsong came from the woods, and faintly, I seemed to hear the footsteps of pilgrims from the trail, treading on scattered stones not far from where I sat. Together with the birdsong, they created a unique and harmonious rhythm. I got up and continued on the journey. 

 

Such flowers bloomed in the wilderness, showing its glory for its own sake. Their light fragrance gave us hikers a boost in energy and encouragement – they looked so calm, elegant and confident. An inspiration for us humans…

 

Not long after I left Cruz de Ferro, I come to a breakfast place. Not that I was hungry, but the scenery from this spot was worth a stop. One could eat, chat with fellow pilgrims and enjoy the sight at the same time! What a great way to multitask!
I munched an apple, had some saltine crackers, drank a few sips of water, moved on – shall I beat the heat today?  

The sign here was encouraging. Congrats for progress made!

Soon after I left that place, I came across a small hut by the roadside, and another building on the hill top that appeared to be another place for pilgrims. I could picture myself to watch sunrise and sunset here! 

A small section of a busy traffic later, I reached the next peaceful path. Luckily, there were very few vehicles passing by, otherwise, the stress of walking side by side, or head-on with the traffic! In addition, the drivers were also particularly considerate and extremely courteous.

 

The scenery was so beautifully intoxicating. Clouds were caressing the mountains, and mountains were embracing the clouds. Wildflowers, bursting with vitality and resilience, emerged from between the rocks, seemingly both ordinary and extraordinary. How did these flowers thrive? One would normally associate flowers with their fragile, delicate and short-lived nature. Not so for wildflowers? The hills were covered in a blanket of flowers – yellow, pink, purple, white… making one forget fatigue and tempting one to slow down. I occasionally slowed my pace, took a deep breath, inhaling the fragrance of the world, closing my eyes, imagining myself in a magical heavenly realm. This was truly priceless!!! Many times, I found that I had spent more time stopping to take pictures than actually walking! My phone battery ran low. I’d better stop this "photo-taking addiction" or I'll never finish walking!

John Brierley’s Guidebook and some Camino Apps mentioned that, soon after Cruz de Ferro, the hikers would encounter more than 20 km of continuous steep descents. I rolled my knee protection to two folds for double protection! I must be highly focused for the next phase of hiking. Watch out for the knees and ankles! 

There were so many beautiful wildflowers along the trail! I knew that I should carry on, but my mind refused. I lay down my backpack by the trailside, sat down next to it, began to snack on an apple, drink some water, take a break, free my feet from the cooped-up shoes for some fresh air, change to hiking sandals, enjoy a moment of the fresh air, the beautiful flowers and the amazing sceneries!! There was the sound of wind, songbirds singing, and the occasional footsteps from a walker or two passing by. Let me enjoy one more moment of the fairyland-like beauty, serenity and shangerila! How I wish that this, too, could last! Robert Frost’s poem came to mind, as a reminder, that it was a matter of course that “Nothing gold can stay”... For real? Couldn’t there be any exceptions?
I didn’t want to think about it at the time, I shouldn’t ever want to think about it. 

A line from an ancient poem hundred of years ago (around Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty, later used by Mao in one of his famous poems) has been quoted numerous times, stating: “The most incredible sceneries can be viewed from mighty (dangerous) peaks,” I certainly was not at a dangerous peak, but at a place that helped me see far more than I would have, had I stayed put in my little cocoon back home. I was at a spot alone, enjoying everything around me so much that I found it hard to take off again! Had I stayed there for a long, long time, would I have dissolved there?! Haha, silly me!

The wildflowers stretched as far as I could see in the mountains. They appeared so calm and content in places so deserted, so open to any elements in nature, yet their delicate and beautiful appearances also showed how tough and resilient they actually were! I wish my body, mind and soul could be that tenacious and enduring!

I walked about 20 km by then, but didn’t feel that I was hiking at all, nor did I feel that I was laboring my body, or suffering my mind. The breathtaking views so occupied me throughout the way - I forgot my exhaustion; I felt healing begin, that I forgot the time; I felt entertained, that I didn’t realize that I was alone; I felt nourished, that I forgot hunger and thirst; I felt enriched, that I forgot my own existence…

I saw a few hikers ahead of me again, a reminder that I must gather my stuff and pick my pace again. Otherwise, imagine out in the wilderness, in the dark, risking the rain, what might happen to me! I neglected all these, and didn't think of the consequences… Oh dear!

The arrow! At times it might look so faint that one might (nearly) miss it. To stay in the course, one had to focus… A new town means more progress made. This town looked so clean and neat. Time to look for food and a pee stop. I didn’t see many people as I walked along the streets/path. I heard that the majority of the buildings in town were there to accommodate the pilgrims.

I saw this “alien” in the woods. It was so pretty that I assumed that it was venomous! Better walk around it and run! Once upon a time, I heard that, in nature, the prettier something seemed to be, the more venomous it might be. Could that be true??  

Another town, hooray! Time to feed my tummy. I had another 7 km or so before today’s destination. You girl, girl! Keep walking!!

While I was paying for my lunch, I ran into M and his buddy. A moment of catching up and dining together.

When I ate with others, I thought that their food looked better than mine. I wondered why others always knew what to order, while, for me, every meal I ordered seemed to be a surprise and an adventure!! 

 

Arrived finally! 15 euros for tonight, rooming with 6 other ladies. A coincidence? I was quite excited about the hard-to-come-by the same-gender-rooming homogeneity – perhaps, just maybe, there would be less snoring tonight? The laundry room was in the basement: machine wash; handwash; machine-dry; line-dry with a few humongous fans on. I should have clean dry laundry by tomorrow for sure. Yeah!!

I was quite contented after a good meal with my friend, L. Time for a stroll in the city…

The image below shows two arrows – bikers heading one way, walkers the other.

Ponferrada is a relatively large city in northwestern Spain, population: around 67,000. The center of the city seems to be quite lively. This city is a main stop along the Way. The image I compiled above shows a much-visited and heavily photographed castle in town – Templarios Castle in Ponferrada.

The stamps I collected  along the Way have accompanied me, and have documented my journey, my thoughts, and the stories developed and shared along the path.

Today, my extremely determined and hardworking feet worked for nearly nine hours, covering a total of 31 kilometers. When I checked into an albergue, I must rest well and give my miraculous and amazing feet a massage. Being able to walk, and being able to walk like this, is a gift from heaven. I am so fortunate!

Keyword:
Let it go