Under the Milky Way 23: From Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierz

June 20, Tuesday, Day 23, from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo: 24.7 km.

Today's route was relatively flat. I should take it easy! After walking for more than 20 days, I saw the patterns – some daily activities have become a routine. For some people, perhaps this near-minimalist lifestyle could allow their muscle memory and mental apparatus to recalibrate and return to near instinct. Based on my observations and personal experiences, the tasks that a pilgrim undertakes physically and mentally throughout the day are actually extremely simple – get up, briefly wash and brush, pack up and walk, eat and drink when needed, arrive at an albergue, clean up, eat and sleep. Then repeat.

 

At the sight of the Camino signs today, I started to think to myself – of course the signs would be here on the Camino! 
Ever since I left Astorga, I have been trailing along in what many called “Phase 3” of the entire journey. As some guidebooks and websites summarized: I had already experienced the phases with physical and mental challenges, and was currently being tested with my spirituality and faith… What other surprises has the heavenly God planned for me through the Camino experiences, I wonder?

Miles counting down always delighted me.

Ran into Angela again today – an idol of mine who could speak several languages. We chat as we walked. I came up with the idea for her to teach me some Spanish, starting with the ads in town. She coached me patiently, I began to mimic what she had said, like a young child, except that I quickly forgot what she had taught me! O well… I then asked her to teach me a French folk song. She kindly accepted the challenge – she sang a line, I hummed along, she slowly sang along, I joined her readily. How fun! 

We passed by some cherry trees, picked one, and tasted it. Sour! 

See how the cranes were grooming themselves again, occasionally peeked at the people hustling by. What premium location their kind could always fine, and free of charge, too! How wise they were! Were they superior to us humans?

Once upon a time, this was how wine was made.

The wise birds again, looking at the world from a different height!

Less than 200 km left, Yay! 
There were people picnicking in the park I happened to pass by. I found a shade under a big tree and next to a picnic table, sat on a park bench, and began my solo picnic there! Fruits, bread, water – what a nice impromptu! The contentment after snacks in the park almost brought me to a doze – I bet my body finally realized that I owed some sleep from last night’s snoring symphony in the room!  Heck! – I might as well lie down there on the picnic table under the shade. I wondered if I looked like an idiot lying down there on the table with a straw hat covering my face? Was I rude napping on a picnic table then? Was it culturally acceptable? 

A cute and handsome dog came my way as I snacked, and had been sitting by my side, as if guarding me for more than half hour! It was my Camino angel of the day – accompanied me, warmed my heart, lessened my weariness… I felt incredibly honored and cared for to see the dog friend there keeping me company…

A short nap later, I said goodbye to my dog friend and was ready to hit the road again. More trails, more vineyards. The beauty and the vastness in nature seemed to encourage me: “Keep walking, you can do it.” Yes, I should overcome it. Although, healthwise, I was still experiencing symptoms, yet I prayed for all being well. Let’s hope that everything would be just fine. :-)  

As I wandered along the trail, enjoying the infinite beauty and the wilderness, I found out that I would soon arrive at tonight’s albergue! 

Bierzo, about 177.5 square kilometers. Its population in 2021: 5,500.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=AB5stBiYhKzXCG6_4mfcq9szSjWiKEhMtw:1691182124601

Still got a few steep roads and weird turns. THe Google Maps took me through the maze-like streets in town. Not sure if the path was the best choice. Well, I didn’t know better anyway!

Today’s albergue was so big – may I call it grand? Most of the time, the albergues I had stayed looked much smaller, much simpler. But this – may I call it a fancy exterior for a change? I was assigned a bed in a room of 10 people, no bunks. What more should I wish for? That was perfect! There was no place to handwash laundry there, though, but there were coin-operated washers and dryers. 

I decided to opt out washing clothes, just be lazy. Perhaps I could walk to the town center, find a drugstore and buy some OTC meds? 

The courtyard here was truly beautiful, with the style that I love – so cozy, spacious, private and pretty. The wisteria was in blooming. When asked about it, the albergue owner’s son told me that the plant had been around for more than 200 years! Wow, the most ancestral wisteria I had ever seen!!  

Dinner that night was prepared by the storekeeper’s mom. L and I ordered: Russian potato salad, grilled chicken breast, pork loin, chestnut cake and yogurt for dessert. Yum!

Key word:
Slow down