Under the Milky Way 26: From Portomarin to Palas de Rei

June 23, Friday, Day 26, Portomarin - Palas de Rei: 24.7 km. Walking began at 6:35am. I saw on the map loads of stops – villages, towns and cities, and the surface seemed to be flat. An easy day it would be, I gathered!

I was reminded many times that, from Sarria on, the crowd would get thicker, far more than before. The hikers’ age would get younger. So true! I began to see many more teenagers and younger on the Way. Many households would walk on the Camino together for a period of time that they could spare from their commitments – a week, ten days, etc.  Seeing a family with three generations on the Camino in such harmony deeply impressed me.  This morning, as I started my walk, there was a big crowd of students in front of a hotel, waiting for instructions from the teachers and chaperons to get on the Camino. From the volume of their chit chat, I could tell how excited they were. I found out later that these groups of 87 high school students came from Madrid. They would be walking on the Camino for a week with their 6 teachers/chaperons. 

A cool and hazy morning.  

Arts, a clear sunny day, and there were only 78 km left – what more ought I wish for? Contentment.

Mother and child…

9am, my stomach alerted me for food hunt – Oh, dear! Yesterday’s dinner was not good at all, now was the time to make up for it, I suppose. Oops, I might have overdone it – I ordered enough to feed an army! As my mother used to say – my eyes would perceive a big appetite for lots of food, yet, realistically, the tummy couldn’t handle the greediness and miscalculation. Imagine after I ate up all the food, I might be able to lift up a boulder!!

The colorful hydrangeas reminded me of my friends who have dedicated gazillion hours of their time immersed in gardening and appreciating blossoms of many kinds.  Throughout the years, they were busy as bees, bring joy and positivity to people around them. I’m forever grateful!  

68 km to go! All of a sudden, I began to think that I had been walking too fast, that I must slow down, and that I was missing the process already - before the process came to an end!! I decided right then and there that I ought to slow down, and had to spend more time immersed on the Way…

Just when I was thinking that I had been walking too fast and that I had to slow down, when I realized that I had arrived at tonight’s albergue!!  

2:45pm, 38,244 steps, 17.26 miles, about 27.8km. I managed to spend 8 long hours on the Way!

Palas de Rei, close to 200 square kilometers in size, with the population of 3,316 in 2021.
http://citypopulation.de/en/spain/galicia/lugo/27040__palas_de_rei/

Food hunting ritual – I purchased quite a few items today, with the recommendations from a fellow pilgrims couple (frozen rice with mixed vegetables, leaf veggies (water-crest?) My dear friend L brought over eggs, tomatoes, etc. After some self-reliant work in the kitchen, it was time for dinner. Exciting!!

Something has to be said about some diligent and creative people I met on the Way. I heard about some impressive tales from time to time. Today’s “star” of the story was an Italian fellow, a college student from Italy. He volunteered to cook something Italian for two of his Camino friend he met recently – “I make it, you eat it” kind of proposal, who wouldn’t like it?!  To make this meal special, he labored attentively in the ultra simple kitchen for more than an hour, using a water glass to puree the cauliflower for the sauce. I certainly didn’t see that coming! Magically created something authentically Italian in vegetarian style speared in front of us!! I was in awe to see such fancy vegetarian pasta from a simple albergue kitchen!! His masterpiece was the highlight in the picture above. The rest of the dishes were improvised by other hungry pilgrims.  A common saying came to me: "When life gives you a lemon, make lemonade."

While I went out for a stroll after dinner, I found that the town center was crowded with kids chasing, people singing and dancing, some grilling, eating, and some others people-watching and enjoying the festivity. It turned out that June 23 in Spain was a very important holiday --  Saint John the Baptist Day. On this special day, many make it a community event: cookout, concert, dance, parade, midnight bonfire and fireworks, etc.

The cookout in the town of Palas de Rei: sardines, ham slices, red wine and water – all for 4 euros.  

This time of the year, while I walked in Spain, the daylight time seemed to be quite long. Many albergues and hostels closed at 10pm, and the majority of the pilgrims were long in bed and in dreamland, snoring or not. The rest and rejuvenation would ensure another full day of hiking, exploring and paying tribute to their pilgrimage. 

Close to 10pm, I was on my way back to the albergue from the event, I saw the orange skyline, dotted by the windmills in the distance, and couldn’t help but marvel at the breathtaking view. The cheers and chatting in the background for a bachelor’s party nearby didn’t seem to affect my “zone”, I was simply taken by the surreal scene ahead – the masterpiece by the heavenly God, and was so reluctant to return to my bed. A voice inside kept reminding me: self-discipline, discipline, and more discipline…  

Sunset westward,
Windmills turning.
Shades of orange light up the sky,
Pilgrims dreaming!

Keyword:
Creativity