土耳其閨蜜行（1）伊斯坦布爾

《土耳其閨蜜行（1）：到達伊斯坦布爾 》

若敏

在一次校友聚會上，一位旅遊達人跟我提起了土耳其，他說，“你一定要去土耳其看看，很奇特的地方，會給你帶來驚喜。”

後來，土耳其一直不太穩定，我也不敢輕舉妄動。直到2015年，覺得局勢平和一點。準備坐郵輪去地中海。

訂地中海郵輪航線的時候，看到有一艘郵輪，起點是土耳其的伊斯坦布爾，停2天，就毫不猶豫地訂下了。怕當地需要用現金，在美國銀行換了不少土耳其的裏拉。還做了一下攻略，將兩天的行程安排得滿滿的，然而計劃趕不上變化，臨出發前，郵輪公司發來了警告，告知土耳其伊斯坦布爾有恐怖活動的危險，讓大家從機場一出來，就直接坐車到碼頭上船，第二天的停靠取消了。

我們在網上辦理了土耳其簽證，到達土耳其機場後，搭上出租車前往郵輪碼頭。下車時，我們各自負責自己的箱子和背包。當準備拿護照進碼頭時，Jack突然發現裝著護照和錢包的攝影包，被遺失在出租車的前座下麵，而我們也沒有要出租車的收據，還給了他不少小費。這時，出租車已經開走，Jack以百米衝刺的速度跑了出去。我們的心都懸起來了。

當我們終於看到Jack背著包走回來的時候，一顆心才放下。原來，出租車已經開出去了一段路，恰好遇到紅綠燈，才讓Jack追上，司機是個善良的人，把車停到了路邊，Jack才把攝影包取回，否則，這次郵輪行，將會出現什麽樣的悲劇，不敢想象。也算是有驚無險了。

（2015年在郵輪上，背景是伊斯坦布爾）

來到郵輪上，豐富的午餐，讓心慢慢靜了下來。走到甲板上，可以遠眺到大教堂的遠景，近在咫尺，卻又難以到達。當晚，郵輪直接離開伊斯坦布爾，望著漸漸遠去的清真寺和大教堂，不禁歎了一口氣。

2019年，再次踏上土耳其。我們一行六位姐妹，從亞特蘭大直飛阿姆斯特丹，再轉機伊斯坦布爾。帶著興奮和快樂的心情，Nancy 將是我的roommate，玲和青也是認識的好友，黃姐相識於Emory 的中文學校，已經多年未見。蘭，第一次見麵，才知道原來就住在附近。

11/11日中午，兒子開車送我去亞特蘭大國際機場，我是第一個到達的，黃姐隨後到達，另外幾位姐妹也陸續到達。飛機在下午5：50分準時起飛，周二上午8：30到達阿姆斯特丹機場。

阿姆斯特丹機場路過多次，一般都是來去匆匆，這次有三個多小時的轉機時間，我們四處走走。機場很大，也很現代，令人驚奇的是機場博物館，有幾幅油畫，令我駐足，靜下心來欣賞。

機場商店的鬱金香以各種方式開放，有燈具，有各種裝飾品，還有塑料花。已經不是鬱金香的季節，所以隻能看到假花。

機場裏有一個奇特的鍾，畫麵裏是一位拿著畫筆的人，不停地畫著秒針，非常有創意。

11點30飛機起飛，下午3：55 到達伊斯坦布爾新國際機場。我四年前到達的是老機場。據說國際航班都轉到了新機場。

出關非常順利。拿到行李後，看到迎接我們的Gate-1 的工作人員。這趟飛機還遇到來自新澤西和紐約的人，他們也是去Gate-1。一共有兩輛車來接我們，這時才知道，這次有兩個team走一樣的路線。我們在Green team 。而那些人在Orange Team.

 

天已經黑下來了，這一天是滿月，又大又亮，我們滿心歡喜，往旅館進發。夜幕下的土耳其格外美麗，月亮剛剛升起，透著皎潔的黃色，巨大的仿佛能觸手可及，想拍攝，因為車速快都沒拍成，留在心底就好。進入市區就有些堵車，一座座清真寺在眼前閃過。路上有各式的商店和餐廳，街上的行人腳步匆匆。從市區出來的道路更加堵塞，那些想回家的人，一定歸心似箭。

酒店在一個臨海的小巷子裏，【Novotel Istanbul Bosphorus 】酒店，現代簡潔的風格，導遊FARUK在酒店大廳迎接我們。我和Nancy來到房間，裏麵清爽幹淨，讓人舒適。

接著是全團開會的時間，除了一人，因為芝加哥大雪，無法按時到達，其他團員都已經到了。導遊做了自我介紹，他出生在德國，並在德國長大，後來回到土耳其，從事導遊工作25年。FARUK 的英文極好，加上略帶磁性的嗓音，悅耳動聽，他簡單地介紹了行程安排以及注意事項。他提到我們是Green Team，還有一個是OrangeTeam，雖然行程相同，但是，住的酒店常常不在一個地方，大家一定不要上錯車。後來，才知道Orange Team的導遊，是他的妻子，夫妻一起帶團，也很有趣。隨後，團裏的人都進行了自我介紹，有夫妻同行，也有像我們一樣朋友一起出行，還有好幾位單身，大部分來自美國，有兩位來自加拿大溫哥華。

由於有團員沒到，歡迎晚宴改到第二天舉行。我們按照導遊的介紹，出門看伊斯坦布爾的夜景，並去品嚐當地的海鮮。出門右拐，就進入熱鬧非常的大街，餐廳接踵而至，不少人在拉生意，還有一些街頭擺攤的烤魚和烤肉，價錢便宜。我們卻一點都不動心，目標確定，朝著推薦的餐廳而去。

在橋下兩邊四處尋找，終於找到了ORFOZ餐廳。餐廳裏已經有幾位Gate-1的成員在吃飯，看來也是在導遊推薦下，慕名而來。相對於旁邊餐廳的冷清，這裏確實比較熱鬧，人氣很旺。

服務生推薦了幾款海鮮，還把海鮮拿過來讓我們看，可以挑選。我們要了兩種烤魚，我和Nancy，每條魚分一半，可以品嚐兩種味道。每盤烤魚，還陪著薯條、青菜，麵包是隨便吃。

魚的分量挺大，我們每人都吃得飽飽的。每條魚大約70裏拉，匯率是1:5.5 左右。

離開餐廳，我們來到橋上觀看海灣的夜景。不少人，還在橋上釣魚，旁邊的魚桶裏，收獲頗豐。

步行回酒店的路上，遇見伊斯坦布爾最有名的甜品店之一，導遊說，隻有這一家，沒有分店。

店裏還有不少人喝茶吃點心。店員介紹了一種28裏拉的綜合套餐，我們經不起誘惑，每人都嚐了一點，有一款開心果點心確實好吃。

走出甜品店，又去逛了超市，發現土耳其果仁軟糖種類繁多，看上去就十分誘人。店員讓我們品嚐，還真不錯，可惜我們現在不敢買東西，怕分量太重。不能再吃了，我們趕快走回酒店。外麵比想象中安全。不過，晚上最好結伴同行，不要單獨行動。

這裏流行抽水煙，我拍了一張團友抽水煙的照片。後來，我把照片傳給她的時候，她十分高興和滿意。這位團友在紐約的NBC 工作，在後來的行程裏，與我們相處得很友好，因為她喜歡拍照，玲幫助她拍了不少照片。回到酒店，洗漱安眠，也許太辛苦，不一會就進入夢鄉。

對伊斯坦布爾的最初印象，來自《東方快車謀殺案》，比利時名偵探赫爾克裏·波洛搭乘托羅斯快車前往土耳其的伊斯坦布爾，打算從那裏轉車回歐洲。在車廂中，除了波洛外，隻有兩位英國旅客，一個是駐印度的英軍軍官，另一個則是位麵容端莊的小姐，這兩名乘客似乎非常熟絡，互稱對方為阿巴思諾特上校和瑪麗·德貝納姆小姐。列車抵達伊斯坦布爾後，波洛渡過博斯普魯斯海峽，在托卡良旅館遇到舊友——國際客車公司的董事布克先生。二人在餐廳中共進晚餐。奇怪的是，人們都選在那一夜出行，原本鋪位一向寬裕的豪華東方快車竟一票難求。急於返回英國卻買不到車票的波洛，在布克先生的幫助下擠上了列車。

這一段一直有伊斯坦布爾作為背景。從土耳其回來後，我又看了新版的《東方快車謀殺案》，有熟悉的背景，覺得有代入感。

下麵是我們整個旅行的行程表，給大家一個大概的輪廓，可以了解一下我們具體的行程。

DAY 1, Monday - Depart for Turkey DAY 2, Tuesday - Arrive in Istanbul Arrive in Istanbul, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia and transfer to your hotel. Balance of the day is at leisure. Tonight, attend orientation meeting with a Welcome Drink at approximately 7:30 PM with your Tour Manager and fellow travelers. We recommend that you select flights which arrive in Istanbul no later than 4 PM on Day 2 of the itinerary, or earlier if possible Overnight: IstanbulDAY 3, Wednesday - Istanbul City Tour Embark on a half day morning tour of Istanbul, the only city that straddles two continents Your tour includes the Rustem Pasha Mosque, a 16th century Ottoman Mosque famous for its large quantities of Iznik tiles, which are set in a very wide variety of floral and geometric designs. Continue to the Hippodrome, the place where chariot races and competitive athletic events took place during the Roman period. You will also visit St. Sophia - the great Byzantine Basilica built in the 6th century, which remained the largest cathedral in the world for almost a thousand years, it was later converted to a mosque and now serves as a museum. Then, onto the lively Spice Market with its unforgettable aromas. Spend the remainder of the day at leisure, exploring this city that blurs the line between East and West, with incredible architecture that is rivaled only by its spectacular natural setting on the Bosphorus Strait. Alternatively, choose to partake in the optional tour to the Topkapi Palace residence of Ottoman Sultans. This evening, join your Tour Manager and fellow travelers for a Welcome Dinner together Optional: Half Day Istanbul with Topkapi Palace (PM) Overnight: Istanbul DAY 4, Thursday - Anzac Cemetery, Drive to CanakkaleThis morning, drive to the town of Gallipoli, site of the famous Ottoman victory against the Allies during World War I. Visit the Anzac Cemetery, a memorial to the casualties of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, whose fame grew back home as word of their heroic efforts spread. Afterwards, cross the Dardanelles by ferry and continue to the Canakkale province, located in northwest Turkey, where you will arrive in the early evening Overnight: Canakkal DAY 5, Friday - Visit Troy, Pergamum, Drive to Kusadasi This morning, proceed to the classical city of Troy. Tour this 4000-year-old city and legendary center of the Trojan War, made immortal by Homer's epic poem The Iliad. Then, drive to Pergamum, a powerful kingdom during the ancient Hellenistic period, and visit the Asclepion, the ancient Roman spa center. Continue to Kusadasi, a city believed to be the birthplace of Homer, where you will arrive in the early evening Overnight: Kusadas DAY 6, Saturday - Full Day in Kusadasi Enjoy a full day at leisure in Kusadasi. Or, join the optional tour to Ancient Ephesus where the Temple of Artemis, one of the "Seven Wonders of the Ancient World," once stood. Walk along the 2000 year old marble streets; see the Great Theatre, the Odeon, the Fountain of Trajan, Temple of Hadrian, and the Library of Celsus. Visit the peaceful House of the Virgin Mary, believed to be her last residence and the Basilica of St. John. Following the tour, participate in an optional leather factory visit to shop or return to the hotel Optional: Full Day Ephesus & House of Virgin Mary with Lunch Overnight: Kusadas DAY 7, Sunday - Pamukkale Hot Springs, Necropolis, and Hierapolis Depart Kusadasi and drive to Pamukkale, famous for its mineral-rich hot springs and white terraces. Visit the Necropolis and the ancient city of Hierapolis "Holy City," a UNESCO a World Heritage Site situated atop the Pamukkale hot springs. The Pamukkale hot springs have served as a therapeutic thermal spa since the 2nd century B.C. Tonight, gather together for dinner Overnight: Pamukkal DAY 8, Monday - Travel to Konya Today, travel from Pamukkale, the "Cotton Castle," to Konya, a city renowned for its Seljuk architecture and also as the home of the "Whirling Dervishes." Arrive in the afternoon and visit the Mausoleum of Mevlana with its distinctive fluted dome of turquoise tiles. View works of the 13th century leader Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, one of the greatest mystical poets of Islam. The Mevlevi Sufi order was founded to follow his teachings Overnight: Kony DAY 9, Tuesday - Visit Caravanserai of Sultanhan en route to Cappadocia Depart for Cappadocia, visiting the magnificent Caravanserai of Sultanhan en route. Afterward, drive to Mustafapasa, which was known as Sinasos during the Ottoman era. The town is a great example of Greek influence in the region. Following lunch, continue to Nevsehir in Cappadocia. Upon arrival in Cappadocia, visit a carpet atelier and have a demonstration of carpet weaving. After, check in to your hotel with free time before dinner. Tonight, attend the optional Whirling Dervish performance; their captivating mystical ritual connects one in infinite spinning to perfect harmony Optional: Whirling Dervishes Performance (PM) Overnight: Cappadoci DAY 10, Wednesday - Morning Sightseeing in Cappadocia Awake very early to participate in the optional hot air Balloon Ride that takes you soaring over the magnificent Cappadocian landscape with its incredible fairy chimney rock formations -- the feeling is both serene and sublime. Then, explore Cappadocia with your group to see Guvercinlik, Uchisar, Pasabag, and the Devrent Valley. Famed for temples and houses cut directly into the region's spectacular rock formations, Cappadocia has captivated travelers for centuries. Perhaps, opt to join the optional half day tour of Cappadocia that includes the Open-Air Museum in Goreme Valley; see early Christian churches decorated with unique frescoes. Explore the village of Avanos, famous for its beautiful old houses and onyx, and visit a local pottery shop. The tour ends at the fascinating Ozkonak Underground City, built on the northern slopes of Mt. Idis. Return to the hotel with free time before dinner tonight Optional: Cappadocia Balloon Ride (AM) Optional: Half Day Cappadocia (PM) Overnight: Cappadoci DAY 11, Thursday - Ankara, Mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk This morning, depart for Ankara, the capital and the second largest city of Turkey. Upon arrival, visit the Mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk, founder and first president of the Turkish Republic. Leading up to the Mausoleum, also known as the Anitkabir, lies a vast brick courtyard and monumental avenue lined with NeoHittite stone statues and cenotaphs beneath its colonnades. The most noted cenotaphs within the complex are those of General Ismet Inonu, a close comrade of Ataturk's and his successor, and that of Ataturk himself, a large and highly decorative marble cenotaph, beneath which lies his tomb. Continue to the Anatolian Civilizations Museum - built in two Ottoman buildings located near Ankara Castle. The Museum, being among exceptional museums with its unique collection, exhibits Anatolian archaeological artifacts, as well as artifacts from the Paleolithic Age to the present Overnight: Ankar DAY 12, Friday - Travel to Istanbul Depart for Istanbul, arriving in the early afternoon. Leisure time to explore on your own on this last day in Turkey. Perhaps, embark on the optional cruise along the Bosphorus, the winding straits separating Europe and Asia. View humble fishing villages and suspension bridges set against the dramatic outline of the Strait. Afterwards, visit the Grand Bazaar, where bargaining is an art. Tonight, attend a festive Farewell Dinner with your newfound friends and Tour Manager Optional: Half Day Istanbul Bosphorus Cruise & Grand Bazaar (PM) Overnight: Istanbu DAY 13, Saturday - Depart Turkey Transfer to the airport for your departure fligh

 

（攝影若敏，也感謝Nancy、玲、青、蘭的攝影，感謝閨蜜一路相伴）

[若敏]

回複 '心中之城' 的評論 :

謝謝你！

[心中之城]

我也很想去土耳其看看！最好一張照片好喜歡呢！周末愉快！

[若敏]

回複 '樂學樂遊' 的評論 :

還真是的，開心！

[若敏]

回複 '菲兒天地' 的評論 :

謝謝菲兒！你也是美美去巴黎

[樂學樂遊]

閨蜜同遊最開心啦。

[菲兒天地]

若敏美女真是周遊世界，精彩遊記！：）