車型：2008 BMW 750Li E66 N62 95,000km
啥都好就是漏油，查過幾次可以確定的up timing cover肯定漏，而且有一部分機油都便宜到發電機轉子上了！上個月有空又仔細查了查，詳情移步：漏油的寶馬例行保養及換輔助水泵。
配件上周就到了，一直猶豫要不要自己作案，昨天天氣暖和些說有22度，開了機蓋看了看不知不覺就開拆了，越拆越多停不下來，前後花了大致9-10個小時兩個半天，昨天下午的前5個小時心理和體力上堪稱折磨，今天上午安裝及收尾倒還順利但也花去了4個多小時，一次試車成功上路，後續還需觀察是否安裝不當接著漏油！
拆卸下來的所有相關密封，注意原裝的VCG在半月型和四角都有RTV痕跡，安裝新VCG如法炮製。
這是網友寫的大致步驟可供參考 ：
For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need:
- Gasket set (Zyl. 5-8) : 11127513195 : 75$
- Rubber seals (3x spares) : 11127511582 : 8$ (optional)
- Valvetronic O-Ring : 07119903596: 3$
- Sensor Sealing : 11127518420: 5$
- Sensor O-Ring 2x : 12141748398: 5$
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568834: 15$ (optional)
- Cap Nut 4x : 11127568835: 20$ (optional)
- Pipe 4x : 11127570219 : 100$
- Spark Plugs 8x : 45$ (optional)
- Torque wrench capable of 5 - 25NM
- Torx sockets (male & female), Tx20, 25, 27, 30 - E6
- Metric sockets 10mm
- Good (!!) set of socket tools including universal joints, multiple lenth extenders
Difficulty Level 1-10: 8 -- there is danger of breaking other items and you may be left with a non-driveable vehicle. Took me 2 full days to complete.
Before starting to work, remove the lover engine compartment screening and reinforcement plate. You will drop stuff, this will give you a chance to retrieve it.
Also let the engine cool down.
Use two compartmented boxes. One for the parts to be inserted. One for the parts extracted. Place them in chronological order.
Before you start, these are the items I had most difficulty with. Think about them and possibly you can avoid them.
- the retaining tabs on the eccentric shaft sensor break easily. If you break both, its a 350$ part.
- there is a levelling sensor at the bottom of the hydraulic oil reservoir. If your not careful, it breaks. Sensor is cheap, but you need the drain the reservoir to replace.
- the fuel liine needs to be disconnected to take the cover out. You'll be surprised how much fuel comes out. Have plugs for both ends ready... before you disconnect.
- to remove the old round rubber seals, place the valve cover on a large piece of cardboard. The old seals were quite bittle and broke during removal. You do not want to have little plastic pieces floating around in your oil system. Check that all is clean.
- the TIS tells you to replace the round rubber seals before re-inserting the valve cover. 3 of the lower ones popped out and were found a day later in the most unaccessable areas. I'd suggest to insert them after the valve cover is back in.
- The pipes do not like to be inserted into the valve cover easily - even with anti-friction coating. The lower cap nuts then will not engage. I used some self made washers to use the upper cap nuts and increase tension. Also wood and a mallet comes to thought.
- torques are not listed in TIS. Be careful not to overtorque.
1) Remove engine accoustic cover
2) Remove both fresh air ducts
3) Remove centre engine compartment partition wall (5171085)
4) Remove ignition coil covering
5) Remove ignition coils (1213511)
6) Optional - Replace spark plugs (1212011) 23NM - use anti-seize agent
7) Remove servomotor for left eccentric shaft (1137022) - you must reinitialize the valvetronic setting before starting the engine, once the repair is completed. I heard this happens automatically after 20secs - ignition on w/o starting (aka foot off brake pedal). I re-learned it in INPA.
8) Replace sealing left cylinder head cover (1112005)
Removing and inserting the valve cover is very difficult, as there is not enough room to clear the eccentic shaft sensor. The valve cover has to be rotated with the front up maybe 25° to clear it. Took me forever.
- I used permatex ultra blue where drei bond 1209 was called for.
- Glycerin served as my rubber anti-friction coating, but was not helpful enough.
- To torque down the lower side I used self made aluminum washers. Most likely there are off the self washers, that can be used instead.
- Initially I overtorqued the fasteners. My final setting was 10NM.
9) Put everything back together again. Use
- 10 NM for the valve cover nuts and bolts
- 5NM for the torx sensor bolts
- 5NM for the Valvetronic spacer bolts
- 8NM for the Valvetronic motor
10) I've attached some additional pictures of where I was able to find the dropped parts. All where accounted for. A stick with some duct tape proved to be most helpful.
Hope this is a help.
Regards, flash-n
怠速馬達初始化：點火著車前再次確認安裝連線完美無誤後，將鑰匙插入不踩刹車按啟動，30-40秒之後退出鑰匙等待10秒鍾，再重複此操作過程一次，再待10-15秒以後插入鑰匙正常啟動，無故障無報錯怠速正常可以上路！
如果還有漏油，臭名昭著的發電機支架及油冷器密封漏油可能就是下一個探險，配件10刀左右在手裏幾個月了，有空有心情再說，現在老腰幹點活不像十年前了，先歇著去了。
順便說，如果有開BMW N62 V8引擎的網友需要此類幫助請悄悄話給我，別的沒有注意事項還是有些心得。
部分心得：
1：噴油嘴陣列一定要拆，需要撬才能鬆動，汽油管路需要斷開注意汽油外泄安全。安裝時在橡膠密封O ring塗卸silicon paste以便坐實不損害O ring.
2: VC最裏端的三個感應器，最值錢的那個eccentric shaft sensor拆裝注意不要磕碰搞斷，其餘的那兩個cam shaft sensor鬆螺絲旋轉即可卸下，這能為下VC而不磕碰高值感應器爭取1-2厘米的空間；因為太緊空間太窄無從下手僅鬆開VC就耗時1個多小時，擔心破壞成真為了完美卸下VC又前後折騰了1個小時，這期間心理真的很掙紮，還在小板凳上又看了看上麵視頻的相關部分。
3：Up timing cover的最下麵一顆螺栓藏在發電機後麵，需要卸上鬆下兩顆16mm螺栓將發電機順時針轉動10-20度才能顯露那顆TC上的螺栓，螺栓千萬千萬不要掉落，否則有可能要卸發電機才能找到！
4：VC初始要用撬棍或長螺絲錐撬才能鬆開一個小縫隙，主要是裏麵的SP tube非常緊，需要向上20-30度成擰麻花的姿勢才能完全分離，後端的那個400刀的感應器非常容易在不經意中搞斷，要看著裏麵多次測試才能無損分離，安裝同理！
5：方向機儲液罐底部有個液位感應器，左右移動時注意不要掰斷，雖然沒幾個錢但很費功夫要清空才能安裝新感應器。
6: 裝發動機皮帶一定要仔細確認是否對齊，底部較黑稍微不注意皮帶會錯齒牙。
7：Valvetronic servomotor，拆卸前做好對位記號，拆的時候一定要按住【會跳起來】逆時針轉直至分離，安裝時不知為何不需按壓直接即可順時針擰入，轉了幾圈按對位記號對好固定四顆螺絲，著車前一定初始化否則怠速會失常。
8：VC和TC上的螺栓盡量交錯星型對角擰，不要一次到位多擰幾遍後再到規定力矩。
9：所有電器接插一定坐實，真空管複接無誤，汽油管路及噴嘴牢靠連接和安裝。
10：安裝所有無法手擰的螺栓都使用masking tape粘接好以防掉了，找失落的螺栓比拆裝還費時間而且心情會變得很差。
11：小工具要齊全，德係常用的偏門套管及板頭要提前備好，3/8萬用轉向轉接頭必備。
12：VCG 半月型及轉角和SP tube兩端均塗寫耐高溫耐油RTV。
13：仔細看兩遍視頻非常有幫助，剩下的就是幹活常識可以靈活調整。
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