盈盈小築
我享受烹調出記憶中的家鄉菜，歡欣能做出不同文化背景親人記憶中的滋味，更享受以文字的方式紓解羈旅異鄉的愁懷，拾掇文化與精神的饗宴
小時候家鄉有個阿姨每天早上都會駕著一輛載著鐵皮箱的摩托車到處叫賣她製作的豬腸粉。她家的腸粉很簡單，隻有蔥酥、芝麻粒、甜醬和辣醬，偶爾還兼賣她做的芋頭糕。
她會把腸粉兩條一包的剪好包裝，買的時候再加醬料。那麽簡單的食材做出來的小吃，卻讓我這麽多年來念念不忘，阿姨做的腸粉很滑，有著濃濃的米香，還帶有微微的酸味，加上蔥油和醬料，讓人一口一口停不下來。
後來回鄉聽說阿姨因為身體不好，已經不再做/賣豬腸粉了。這個消息讓我非常惆悵，小時候喜歡的味道，再也吃不到啦！
這麽多年來我在許多地方也都吃過好吃的豬腸粉。但卻沒有一個讓我那麽難以忘懷。阿姨做的豬腸粉有著讓人迷戀的味道，一種簡單的，堅持的，古早的味道。也是我一直尋找的，味道。
為了還原我思念的這個味道，我把能夠接觸的資料都看了一遍，網上一些比較有名的食譜我也試過了，那些加澱粉，澄粉，薯粉的食譜做出來都不是我想念的口感和味道。
多次的失敗嚐試之後，我有了很多的體會。腸粉最重要的是米要好，越陳越幹爽的米做出來的腸粉越香，水和粉的比例對了，就能蒸出米香濃鬱，順滑好吃的腸粉。
幾次調整之後，我整理出這個自己比較滿意的比例，今天寫個帖子記錄這個食譜。
Years back in my hometown, there was this lady riding a motorcycle with a big metal box selling her homemade Chee Cheong Fun every morning. Her Chee Cheong Fun was soft, smooth and full of rice fragrance (米香）with a slight touch of sourness. Her sauce was a good balance of sweet and salty, together with fried shallots and roasted sesame, her chee cheong fun performances an orchestra of flavors in the mouth, it was very addictive.
My parents normally purchased her Chee Cheong Fun only over the weekends. I get real excited waking in the morning to see packets of Chee Cheong Fun sitting in the cupboard ready for breakfast.
Unfortunately, she stopped selling Chee Cheong Fun due to her health condition. I can no longer enjoy a packet of her Chee Cheong Fun now when I visit my hometown.
I did, though, encountered good Chee Cheong Funs at different places over the years. But none, came close to what this lady has made. There is something about her Chee Cheong Fun that I can't forget. A sense of pureness and simplicity that machine made Cheong Fun can't replicate. It comes only through years of day-to-day hard work, melding with patience and care, an art and heritage.
With that in mine, I wanted to recreate the kind of Chee Cheong Fun I missed. I tried many recipes online and was disappointed most of the times. But I learnt something new every time. I did, finally came to a formula that my palate agrees. It is made with only rice, water, oil and salt. No cornstarch, wheat starch and tapioca flour added.
I present you : A simple tale of steamed rice rolls. Just like how it should be, long long time ago.
材料: (能做 12 條 8 寸的腸粉)
75 克 印度香米/Basmati Rice 或 秈米/長米代替
75 克 泰國香米（或任何一種秈米/長米）
50 克 日本米 （或任何一款粳米/圓米）
2 大勺 蔥油/食油 另 加 3 大勺的 蔥油/食油抹盤子/腸粉用
1/2 小勺 食鹽
500 毫升/克 食用水
Ingredients: (Makes 12-16 rolls)
75 g Basmati Rice (The older, the better) Can be substitute with Jasmine Rice
75 g of Thai Jasmine Rice (or any type of old long grain rice)
50 g of Japanese rice (or any type of round grain rice)
2 tbsp of Shallot oil/cooking oil plus 3 tbsp more for brushing and coating
1/2 tsp of salt
500 ml of drinking water
1. 把三種米混合洗淨後泡水至少五個小時，或過夜。
2. 瀝幹水後和200毫升的食用水一起用破壁機/攪拌機攪拌順滑。取30克放到一口耐熱的碗裏。
3. 把80毫升的水煮滾後衝入剛剛放有30克米漿的碗裏製作熟漿。
4. 剩下的米漿裏加入2大勺的蔥油和1/2小勺的食鹽，加入剩下的220毫升水混合備用。
5. 把生熟漿混合均勻，靜置10分鍾。
2. Drained well, place the rice in blender with 200 ml of drinking water, grind until smooth. Take out 30 g of batter and place in a bowl.
4. Add 2 tbsp of shallot oil ,1/2 tsp of salt and the remaining 220 ml of water into the batter, mix well.
5. Combine Roux with batter and whisk together to form a mixture of the consistency of heavy cream, let it sit for 10 minutes before steaming.
6. 把蒸爐裏的水煮滾，取一個八寸的烤盤/蒸盤。刷上一層薄薄的蔥油/食油。
7. 倒入1/3 杯（80克/毫升）(如果喜歡薄一些的可以用1/4杯/60克/毫升）的米漿，讓米漿平鋪在盤底，米漿的厚度應該隻有2毫米左右。
8. 大火蒸2-2 1/2分鍾，腸粉底部起大泡泡即可。
10. 把剩下的米漿用相同的方法蒸熟，我用兩個烤盤交替蒸，這樣速度會快很多。
6. Bring water in a steamer to boil. Brush a layer of shallot oil/cooking oil over an 8 inches baking tray.
7. Ladle 1/3 cup (1/4 cup if you like it thinner) of batter/mixture into the tray and tilt around to create even coating on the bottom. The rice sheet should be very thin, roughly around 2 mm in thickness.
8. Steam the sheet for 2-2.5 minutes at high until large air bubbles form from underneath the sheet.
9. Take the tray out and let cool for a minute, use a scraper to scrape from top to bottom to help roll the sheet into a roll. Place it onto a tray that is brushed with a layer of oil/shallot oil.
10. Repeat the same process for remaining batter. Use two trays to speed up the process.
Note：Try serving the cheong fun 1-2 hours after steaming, it taste better and is crunchier in texture.
腸粉冷卻之後才吃更爽口順滑，撒上蔥酥和芝麻，淋上甜醬辣椒，就是最好吃的早餐啦！
Let cool before serving, serve with Fried shallot, roasted sesame, sweet sauce/chili sauce.
