我是極不喜修車但確實比較喜歡保養車輛，本末倒置的事情不是我這個工科寂寞汪的專長!
剛才在老外的一個車壇看了一片求助帖覺得很有教育意義：
Transmission "growling" at idle...
大致是自己更換變速箱液及內部油封後出現了非正常噪音，這是一個網友的回複我個人感覺很中肯，特地將內容轉過來：
Here's my tips and things to consider:
A. Make sure when refilling the trans fluid, the car is on a neutral level.....meaning the front or rear are NOT tilting up or down. I assume you have it on a lift of some sort.
B. Reason I drained or replaced my trans oil because I replaced my torque converter. So that being said, Its a must to flush my trans fluid. A full trans oil replenishment for me was about 8-81/2 quarts. I believe yours was JUST draining it without torque converter replacement. Here's my math.....about 1 quarts of oil to refil the torque converter and the rest is 7 1/2. If yours is WITHOUT torque converter replacement you must be putting only close to about 7 quarts. Lesson here is to be mindful NOT to overfill. Ok?
C. Once you have your diagnostic tool, RESET involves 2 things. Disconnect the negative battery for about 15-20 mins then Reconnect it. (This is your first reset.) The second reset will be on your diagnostic tool. (Adaptation reset).
D. Did you put the right trans oil specs requirement for your transmission? ZF transmission (which most BMW trans have) tend to be very fuzzy about the brand and type of trans oil. Very picky and fuzzy. Very preMadoona I would say. Each ZF trans MUST meet a specific trans oil specs. Mine was a 5HP19 trans. Whats yours? My recommendation is a simple call to Erikkson Industries. (800-388-4418) and ask for the specs trans oil you need. They are the guru of ZF transmissions based in Connecticut. Ask for John. ZF trans oil is expensive..about $16.00+ per quart. Ask John what's the Specs requirement for your trans. Then compare what you just used. Is it a big deal if you go against the specs? Personally I will follow what the guru says. Roll the dice as the saying goes.
C. I'm attaching a picture of the diagnostic tool I have which I purchased on eBay. A lot of us here uses a generic brand of diagnostic tool. To me it's a waste of money. My simple motto: pick the RIGHT tool for the job. My diagnostic tool has SPECIFIC features for my E39 which the generic DO NOT have. This is also the main reason as to why MOST of us here go bananas. I noticed here in the forum that majority has a Generic brand diagnostic tool. I learned this lesson the hard way. Generic diagnostic tool will shoot a lot of fault codes and here we are tend to panic. Lesson: It's NOT the right tool. Hope you Get my point?
Here's the brand I use.....http://www.icarsoft.com
Hope these pointers are enlightening and not confusing ***55357;***56841;
Any questions....feel free to ask.
也許有人會問，這和我的車有什麽相幹呢？
其實表象的東西千差萬別，可本質的東西是有章可循的。
這位網友其實在說三件事：
1：更換油液時車輛需要的位置狀態
2：選擇正確的油液和用量
3：車輛診斷工具的選擇
細看這些都是車輛保養最基本的操作知識，也是我這些年來發帖極力“鼓吹”的做法，同時也是我遠離高大上修車的法寶，我的原則是惹不起咱還躲不起嗎！
因為最近這周在給車換機油，所以順便說說機油的事情。
目前家裏的兩輛車如果按裏程間隔換機油大致需要兩年或三年，因為開的少這些年我一直是按年度換，即使是隻開了幾百公裏【油濾就不換了】。
現在車輛的複雜程度已遠非20-30年前的老車那麽簡單，大家都要低扭節能還要減排，機油也不僅僅是潤滑除雜降溫那麽單一，很多燃燒的控製都要使用油壓來控製，所以對機油的壽命和品種有了更高的要求，特別是德係車有很多是正時鏈的，這種多處需要大量良好油品來保證引擎及相關控製正常或較佳運行的車輛更是要注意保養，除非車輛本身設計缺陷，一般而言根據自己的情況有意識地調整保養周期多會延緩或杜絕這些車輛的常見“病”。
是因為看了最前麵老外的帖子有感而發隨便說說，如有不嚴謹的地方歡迎拍磚。
