2007 (217)
2008 (206)
2009 (152)
2010 (118)
2011 (142)
2021 (1)
秋意漸深。天涼，起風，落雨，樹葉變黃變紅，紛紛飄落。這種時候我要開始燉湯了。
傍晚時分，暮色四合，家裏溫暖的燈光，爐火，砂鍋裏咕嘟咕嘟燉著的湯散發的香氣，還有家人，對我來說是最重要的。外麵愈冷，家愈顯溫暖。
想家的感覺常常在不經意的時候突然襲來，讓我猝不及防。那羅宋湯的做法，是外婆的方子，她手把手教我的，小時候無數個冬天的日子都是被這樣的湯溫暖了身子，更溫暖了心。
我外婆家以前很富有，因為外公家都是工程師和大公司經理，留過洋，所以生活很西化。家裏常常吃西餐，說英文。文化大革命被抄了家，這樣的生活方式也終結了。不過外婆還是保留著一些習慣。比如，每周帶我們去吃一次西餐，常常去的是紅房子。
她教我們如何用刀叉，如何喝湯，如何不弄出聲音。她似乎想在我們身上延續一種生活方式，也許她很懷念老底子的一些日子。那些日子是我們做小孩子盼望的，平時也就很乖，因為不想被剝奪出去吃好東西的機會。
我喜歡那裏的羅宋湯，或牛尾湯，牛排，豬排。大快朵頤，對一個孩子來說，是最大的幸福。
外婆告訴我，當年我們請客都是在紅房子，媽媽坐月子時公公家每天都差傭人送菜送湯來給她補身子。在我印象紅房子很有格調，很高級，菜也好吃。
後來我長大了，剛剛改革開放時，有一次有老外客人來，我們陪他去玩兒，最後去紅房子吃晚餐。一進去我大吃一驚（我很久沒有去了），地方好像很小，裝飾也不是記憶裏那麽好，菜上來更令人失望。老外和我們家很熟的，就笑說: 這是你們描述的餐館嗎?是不是走錯了.我們都笑得要死.那時的中國經過了那麽多年的劫難,估計不光是我們給記憶增添了色彩,而且的確菜式也不如以往了.
之後又是好多年沒去.吃正宗牛扒的地方太多了.紅房子已經不是上海吃西餐的首選,也不知道現在的味道怎樣.
還記得下午還常去牛奶棚吃蛋糕，冰激淩，害得我到現在還是蛋糕狂, 冰激淩狂. 有一次聚會我吃巧克力蛋糕,喜歡極了,一個老外問我: are you a chocolate-holic? 我這才真正考慮了一下, 想好以後告訴他,我是cakeholic。他不問我還沒注意。坐遊輪去阿拉斯加時，我的朋友對我說，我使他第一次見識了人類對於蛋糕的熱愛。一點不言過其實，我永遠喜歡蛋糕和冰激淩，耳邊出現外婆常常提醒我的：別急，先吃蛋糕，再吃冰激淩，否則反過來蛋糕就沒有味道了。
由於那時的習慣，我還是喜歡吃奶油味重，但是不很甜的蛋糕。西人的蛋糕對我來說都太甜太膩了。
天涼的日子，我開始燉湯。當湯的香味彌漫開來時，家就像個家了；還有早晨咖啡的味道。我外婆常年喝咖啡，她用一個不鏽鋼的容器煮，水開了會有一些響動，早上這樣咕嘟咕嘟的聲音伴著咖啡的香味，代表了少時的日子。這些味道令我分外想念我的外婆。今年她已經93歲了，她現在喝速溶咖啡，也不做家事了。一直到91歲，她都是煮飯的。燒菜是她的樂趣，她和我說，其實懂得了規律和菜的特質分類，什麽菜都知道怎麽燒。事實證明她是對的，我現在燒菜都是靠這個經驗。烹飪其實是藝術，要靠一些悟性的，有創意才好玩兒。
一代一代,就是這樣傳承。家永遠都是這麽溫暖，家裏有個女人，在廚房忙碌，冬天夏天，都有不同的菜肴，溫暖家人的胃，也溫暖家人的心。這些溫暖永遠印在一代一代的記憶裏。
羅鬆湯，我外婆傳給我的。湯盛出來前要用一隻特別的勺子把油去掉，否則小肚子......
去了油之後是這樣的
我最喜歡的新鮮鯽魚湯
每周一次的烏骨雞湯
過年的傳統砂鍋
平時忙的時候做的簡易湯,不用燉很久,用的是丸子甜不辣什麽的加蔬菜
扁尖排骨湯
排骨凍豆腐蔬菜湯
試驗的排骨黃魚鯗湯,鯗要泡半天,洗得很幹淨很幹淨
海鮮湯
蔥油餅
想不到吧,我也會擀麵~~~
受了縱然dd的啟發,加了一些文字......
看到你太好了。真是很久很久了。問好！
這樣哦.
那我勉為其難了.我剛才發帖/qqh給了杜姐,阿葛,陳默,一霖和安娜晴天,你也幫著通知一些可能願意參加的人?
各位姐妹也幫著吆喝一下,人越多越熱鬧不是嗎?
回複盈袖2006的評論:
謝謝阿袖器重，但提醒你不要辜負AD重托！ 好事輪流分擔嗎，你的主意你作東，嗬嗬
我肯定完成作業，這樣吧，我們還是分頭上湯（注明soup or trick，勞你匯集搬運一下，這樣大家都到這裏看湯展，如何？
阿蘇: 要不要還是你來,你號召力強哎
上湯，上湯。
片片發給誰啊？
好，我明天要發糖！也發湯^_^
今天用一磅肉糜做了34個百葉包，分了四劄，湯裏有扁尖冬瓜小排和火腿，雅米地很，也讓我想念外婆，海帶排骨和這樣，是她的家常暖胃湯。
謝縱然加注，加油工，非你莫屬，加油起哄一把手那種，哈哈
真的是這樣子.
我說的牛奶房就是淮海西路高安路附近的牛奶棚,那是我外婆家從茂名路搬到天平路,每周都去那兒,我很喜歡的
你知道,很多上海話裏的字我到大了才了解我很多都想錯了的.比如你說的牛奶棚,我以為牛奶房,還有"現世報"我以前一直以為是"醃水包",很臭,很不要臉的意思~~;比如像煞有介事,窮凶極惡,我以前根本不知道字是什麽;還有窩求苦惱,到現在我也不知道前麵兩個字應該是什麽?我與上海脫離太久了矣~~~
你要不要參加"soup or trick",明天上湯,以免我們去搗亂?
I totally agree.
Unfortunately I don't remember dinner rolls any more however I do remember at that time the steak were so thin and well done that when I had the authentic steak for the first time, I was shocked~~
I think we share the warm memory and the feelings going with it. thank you for your translation...
If we start a "soup or trick" activity, are you in?
阿蘇,要不我們搞個soup or trick活動吧,大家明天都上湯,否則我們就trick她.......
你來起頭?
她一向這麽有趣的,大個噴嚏就說excuse me.快八十歲跟我女兒學電腦,還教我女兒那個是mouse......
現在她真的老了,生活也越來越沒趣,她覺得很寂寞.所以我現在假期都攢著回去看她,看爸爸.
小的時候去紅房子吃西餐，是件很神聖的事，坐在桌邊，盡量裝成小淑女~~。現在紅房子早已今不如昔。我妹妹也為了了一了對紅房子的相思之情，前幾個月去了一趟，結果大失所望，胃口倒足，從此斷了情結:(
你說的牛奶房是淮海西路高安路附近的牛奶棚嗎？喜歡那裏的拐奶油，和拐奶油蛋糕，白吃不厭，嗬嗬。還有淮海路東湖路口的天鵝閣，也是常去的地方。記得牛牛四歲那年，我帶他去那裏吃西餐，和他麵對麵坐在樓上的包廂座裏，喜得他，拿了刀叉當“武器”，潑翻一大杯橙汁~~
謝謝盈袖，讓我一下子回憶起好多往事。
You are right, the dishes at the Red House were, in fact, not really that good at all. In addition, the place was dingy, and decoration was tasteless. But in 80s, that restaurant is only one of handful western styled restaurants available in that city, which actually was offering chinaized western dishes. Still, in that deserted era, it provided a sense of enlightenment for many of us as a window to look beyond China.
I forgot to mention to you that there was one item I also liked then in the Red House, its dinner rolls. The breads were baked on the premises, and they were fresh, warm and tasty with real butter that brought to the table.
Today, a parade of international restaurants open in that city, some of them I've visited are really authentic, offering extremely good quality of food and good prices too, :) yet there is nothing that would be able to bring me back the warmth, the taste, and the expectation rooted in my childhood. Maybe, this is about our life, bygone is bygone, what it really matters is present and future.
BTW, A Su is right, emoticons that she put at the end of each of three lines she wrote didn’t render on window operation system even though they work well on apple products.
So I am going to do your favor to translate her emoticons for you.
每樣都 - Every dish looks really lovely!
阿袖周末 - A Xiou, please have a great weekend!
縱然 – Zong Ran, you should work at a gas station to pump gasoline for cars and trucks instead on the street! :)
非常讚尚你的外婆啊---願她生活格調隨著生命不斷延續廣大！
謝謝你們分享的故事，今天就去煲鍋湯，百葉包肉扁尖冬瓜。
也順祝萬聖節愉快！不想挨打就多給湯^_^
你的留言攔腰而斷,可不是我哦,別打我~~~
每樣都💓
阿袖周末😄
縱然⛽
我怎麽聽說最好隻喂*狗*糧啊.我們見到別人的狗狗,都不敢隨便喂東西的.
hei,說有禁閉字,隻好一段段發.在自己家,還這麽拘束,咳
好啊,倒時看你的pp.在你那兒,看到你怎麽什麽都給小米吃啊,還去麥當勞.
親愛的,真是這樣,其實也是方便的,這樣其他菜也不用煮了,最多再加一個素菜.
She told me when I was one month old, my paternal grandparents held a big celebration in Red House. Actually during the first month, they sent their maids to my grandma's everyday with a dish (usually chicken soup) for my mum.
I have the same feeling as you about all this. Besides the afternoon visit to the "milk house" was impressive too. We will have cake and icecream. I still remember my granny always reminded me to have the cake fist so as to taste it better when I got too anxious about the icecream.
They absolutely were the highlights of my life back then.
As to the color, you are right, it should be a bit redder, I believe it is because I didn't use the tomato paste sauce which give more color trying to avoid the persevatives in the cans.
Well, it's so nice just talking about the old days when we were still little and well cared and taken care of......
With these soup recipes, I am well prepared to be a good granny, though it is still a bit far away~~~
Always nice to see your comments and know you are still dropping by sometimes Ad
對了，天冷喝點熱湯對女人尤其好。我明天也去采購點來做做。
Maybe it is because of weather (we have raining and snow right now as I am writing) or because of the exhaustion that resulting from running in bad weather, These soups and hotpots, particular luosongtang (Russian borscht soup) made me drool with strong trace of nostalgic sentiment. :(
Believe or not, I actually grew up on Russian borscht soup. In 80s, I was still a little boy. My father was working his degrees aboard, and my mom had to deal with the ever-changing hospital shifts. My life then was sort hanging on balance over missing my parents lots of time. Nevertheless, there was some good moments: To cheer me up, almost every Saturday like some kind of ritual, my grandpa and grandma would dress me up a little and brought me to a western restaurant named “the Red House” located on Huaihaizhonglu, which is not too far from our house, on sunny day we could walk to there. Sometimes my mom joined us if she was off that day. The menu offerings from the Red House was quite primitive even “shameful” if using today’s foodies’ standards. But then the dishes here were pretty good to me. My folks would almost always order beefsteak, French onion soup and some other side dishes; For me, I’d stick with Russian borscht soup and fried pork chop. In the season of late fall and winter, the hot Russian borscht soup full with the chucks of meat, tomato, cabbage and carrots not only delighted my palate and filled my stomach but warmed my whole body and mind. In retrospect, a couple of hours spent at the table of the restaurant and shared favorite food with love ones had inevitably laid the layers of fabrics for understanding this world – one cannot always get all one wants, but a simple plate of soup may light a day.
Nowadays, I wouldn’t visit the Red House any more. It seems that it won’t make that kind of Russian borscht soup which has embedded in my memory any more. It could be that my taste has been spoiled.
Apparently, from the photo A J makes good Russian borscht soup if it can be a bit redder. :)
Thanks for sharing!