暗香盈袖
如鷹展翅 更新茁壯
被冰凍住的忍耐號
Endurance
Shackleton’s incredible voyage
Foreword and afterword by Dr. James Dobson in 1999
By Alfred Lansing 1959
我 自己一般不會選擇讀這樣的書 . 一個老外朋友借給我 , 說是讀了就放不下的一類 , 我聽了他的簡單介紹 , 才有興趣 . 我喜歡讀人在艱難環境裏尋求生存的故事 , 喜歡裏麵表現的毅力 , 求生欲望 , 以及由此產生對生命的領悟 . 加之有名的 JAMES DOBSON 為它寫了序 .
這是一個真實的故事 , 關於英國著名南極洲探險家 SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON 的一次南極探險經曆 . 當時已經有人到達過南極 , 所以他的探險計劃 THE IMPERIAL TRANS-ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION 是由海上經過南極穿越南極洲 . 他們選用的是一艘非常堅固的船 ,SHACKLETON 把它改名為 ENDURANCE.
作者盡全力將故事記載得真實無誤 , 他采訪了很多船員 , 並大量參考了他們的航海日誌 , 以求最大程度地和實際發生的情況相符 . 書中講述了為時兩年的探險過程 , 其中的重重困難 , 詳細敘述了他們的海上 , 冰上生活 , 以及為求生所作的努力和相伴的心理 . 非常吸引人 .
我很喜歡 Alfred Lansing 的文筆 . 簡單 , 字裏行間卻充滿內容和感情 , 常讓我沉浸在一種淡淡的氛圍裏麵 , 相信也是同一種氛圍環繞著他 , 當他寫下這些文字的時候 . 比如他描寫的進入南極沒有亮光的冬季之前的一段時間 :
Early in May the sun appeared over the horizon for the last time, and then slowly dropped from sight – and the Antarctic night began. It did not happen all at once; the gradually diminishing dusk grew shorter and less intense each day.
For a time a haze, deceiving half-light remained, and the stark outline of the ship could be seen against the horizon. But it was difficult to perceive distances. Even the ice underfoot grew strangely indistinct so that walking became hazardous. A man could drop into an unseen hollow or collide with a hummock thinking it was still a dozen yards away.
But before long even the half-light disappeared – and they were left in darkness.
寥寥幾行 , 將我們所無法體會的荒涼 , 寂寥用對模糊昏暗的光的描寫勾畫出來 , 意味深長 . 當寫道 : “ 然後他們被留在了黑暗裏 ”. 指的是長達半年的黑暗 , 而他們是在一條不能移動的船裏 .
此次探險不很順利 , 出發後不久忍耐號就被冰在了大片的冰塊當中不能動彈 , 船員們很快就開始了南極的冬季 . 他們僅能在船上活動 , 晚上聚在一起玩牌度過漫長的時光 . 這是令人難以想象的寂寞 , 不過和以後的經曆比起來 , 這實在是天堂了 .
當天氣見暖 , 由於海浪的洶湧 , 水上的冰塊開始移動 , 忍耐號終於可以再次行駛 , 可是不很久就遇上了大風暴 . 經過幾天的掙紮 ,SHACKLETON 最終不得不下令棄船 . 他們的狗拉著雪橇 , 上麵是必需物資 , 以及三條小船 , 由此開始了他們艱難的求生之路 .
冰上的行走實在太過辛苦 , 慢慢也變得不值得 , 於是他們在冰上紮營 , 並不斷回到船上去取更多的物資 . 每一個行動都十分艱難 , 需要很大的努力 . 他們把這個營地叫做 OCEAN CAMP. 他們在那兒待了兩個月 , 睡在冰上的帳篷裏 . 他們也狩獵 , 海豹等動物是他們的主要獵物 , 以保證食物以及燃料的需要 .
有了機會的時候他們繼續前行 , 但是很快就又被阻了 , 無奈隻能再次紮營 . 可是這一次的冰塊願不如以前的那個大 , 因此也更不堅固 , 安全 . 他們叫它做 PATIENCE CAMP. 他們在那裏住了三個多月 , 絕望漸漸吞噬他們 .
An air of tension, of patience pushed too far, settled on the camp that night, and conversation was scant.
…
Many of them, it seemed, finally grasped for the first time just how desperate things really were. More correctly, they became aware of their own inadequacy, of how utterly powerless they were. Until the march from Ocean Camp they had nurtured in the backs of their minds the attitude Shackleton strove so unceasingly to imbue them with, a basic faith in themselves – that they could, if need be, pit their strength and their determination against any obstacle – and somehow overcome it.
But then came the march, a journey that was to carry them nearly two hundred miles. Yet after only five days and nine small miles in a straight line to the northeast, they had been stopped completely and were even forced to retreat. A gale could easily have carried them that far in twenty four hours. So now they sat in Mark Time Camp, disillusioned and humbly aware how truly pygmylike they were to overcome the forces they faced, regardless of how much strength and determination they put forth. The realization was not so much humiliating as frightening.
Their ultimate goal was still to get themselves out, but now it was an empty phrase. They wouldn’t get themselves out. Only if the pack chose, they might be permitted to escape, but for the present they were powerless; there was no goal, not even the smallest achievable objective to aim for. They were faced with total uncertainty. Their position was, if anything, worse than it had been. They had abandoned a goodly quantity of stores, along with one of their boats. And while the floe they were camped on was adequate, it was no match for the giant back at Ocean Camp.
由於食物的缺乏 , 而且以後在冰上行進的可能性幾乎為零 , 他們不得不殺掉了所有的狗 . 這一段的描寫讓讀者體會到在身體忍受苦難的同時 , 船員們精神上 , 情感上的傷痛 .
Then on Jan 13, a rumor spread that Shackleton was considering killing the dogs to ease the drain on the food supplies. Among the men, reaction ranged from simple resignation to outraged shock. Stormy debates on the value of the dogs against the food they consumed broke out in each tent that night. But the fundamental, underlying factor in these discussions was that, for many men, the dogs were more than so many pounds of pulling power on the trail; there was a deep emotional attachment involved. It was the basic human need to love something, the desire to express tenderness in this barren place…
…
At the thought of losing Grus, a puppy born a year before on the Endurance, Macklin reflected: “He is a fine little dog, hardworking and of a good disposition. Also, I have had him, fed him, and trained him since he was born. I remember taking him out when he was a puppy in my pocket, only his nose peeping out and getting covered with frost. I used to take him on the sledge when I was driving the team, and in those early days he used to take an active interest in the doings of the dogs.”
當冰麵開始裂開 , 有足夠的海水空間時 , 他們從 PATIENCE CAMP 出發 , 分三組分乘三艘小船 ., 希望登上最近的島嶼 .
他們沒有很好的導向 , 而小船受風向影響很大 , 所以很大程度上是靠運氣 , 根據自身所在 , 不得不一再改變目的地 , 最終到達了 ELEPHANT ISLAND. 海水風浪滔天 , 這時他們在海上掙紮了幾天幾夜都沒有睡過覺了 . 坐在船頭導航的人由於緊張用力 , 幾乎站不起來 . 在冰上紮營時 , 他們的睡袋就沒有幹過 , 在船上更是濕淋淋的 . 剛剛上岸的他們又發現這是一個非常險惡的海灘 , 所以一夜之後不得不再次尋找合適的海岸 .
此時 , 探險變成了求生存 . 在荒無人煙的南極 , 他們沒有任何救援者到來的可能 . 隻能在自身的條件下尋求生路 . 這是一群堅強樂觀的海員 , 但是絕望還是慢慢侵蝕著他們的心 , 在自然麵前 , 他們也越來越意識到自己的渺小 , 對命運的無法掌控 .
It was as if they had suddenly emerged into infinity. They had an ocean to themselves, a desolate, hostile vastness. Shackleton thought of the lines of Coleeridge:
Alone, alone, all, all alone,
Alone on a wide wide sea.
They made a pitiable sight – three little boats, packed with the odd remnants of what had once been a proud expedition, bearing twenty eight suffering men in one final, almost ludicrous bit of survival. But this time there was to be no turning back, and they all knew it.
中途他們也在冰山上過夜 , 但是大風隨時刮起 , 冰山破裂 , 甚至就在其中一個帳篷的中間裂開 , 於是他們又經曆了一場危險 . 他們用盡全力保持三組人聚在一處 , 其中一艘船狀況不好 , 後來需要另一艘在旁協助 , 但第一艘卻散落了 .
When there was a deep-throated thud, and the floe split beneath his feet – and directly under No 4 tent in which the eight forecastle hands were sleeping.
Almost instantly the two pieces of the floe drew apart, the tent collapsed, and there was a splash. The crewmen scrambled out from under the limp canvas.
“Somebody’s missing, one man shouted. Shackleton rushed forward and began to tear the tent away. In the dark he could hear muffled, gasping noises coming from below. When he finally got the tent out of the way, he saw a shapeless form wriggling in the water – a man in his sleeping bag. Shackleton reached down for the bag, and with one tremendous heave, he pulled it out of the water. A moment later the two halves of the broken floe came together with a violent shock.
The man in the sleeping bag turned out to be Ernie Holness, one the firmen. He was soaked through, but he was alive, and there was no time to worry about him, then because the crack was opening once more, this time very rapidly, cutting off the occupants of Shackleton’s tent and the men who had been sleeping in the Caird from the rest of the party. A line was pitched across and the two little groups of men, pulling toward one another, managed to bring the halves together once more. The Caird was hurriedly shoved across, and then the men leaped to the larger floe. Shackleton waited until the others were safe, but by the time it was his turn, the pieces had drifted apart again. He took hold of the rope and tried to bring his chunk closer; but with only one man pulling, it was useless. Within ninety seconds he had disappeared into the darkness.
For what seemed a very long tnterval, no one spoke; then from the darkness they heard Shackleton’s voice. “Launch a boat,” he called
Wild had just given the order. The Wills was slid into the water, and a half-dozen volunteers scrambled on board. They put out their oars and rowed toward Shackleton’s voice. Finally they saw his outline in the darkness, and they pulled up alongside his floe. He jumped into the Wills, and they returned ot the campsite.
Sleep now was out of the question . Shackleton ordered the blubber stove lighted. Then he turned his attention to Holness, who was shivering uncontrollably in his soaked clothes. But there weren’t any dry garments to give him because their only clothes were the ones they were wearing. To prevent Holness from freezing, Shackleton ordered that he be kept moving until his own clothes dried. For the rest of the night, the men took turns walking up and down with him. His companions could hear the crackling of his frozen garments, and the tinkle of the ice crystals that fell from him. Though he made no complaint about his clothes, Holness grumbled for hours over the fact that he had lost his tobacco in the water.
在島上 , 大家終於不需要在時刻驚惶 , 處在危險當中 , 要使出所有的力氣求生 . 最終他們決定由 SHACKLETON 帶領三人乘小船 CAIRD, 帶上他們所有的最好裝備 , 前去一個島上的捕鯨站求救 . 其餘的人在島上等待 . 預計他們到達捕鯨站需要一個月 , 但是他們走了四個月 ,SHACKLETON 還沒有回來 ……
It was a joy, for example, to watch the birds simply as birds and not for the significance they might have – whether they were a sign of good or evil, an opening of the pack, or a gathering storm. The island itself was a sight worthy of more than casual observation. Along the coastline, the cliffs looked like an enormous wall thrown up against the sea. Glaciers crept down their sides all the way to the water, where the action of the waves constantly wore away at the ice. Now and again, a small piece or a section almost as big as a berg would plunge into the water.
The ferocity of the land apparently spawned similarly forbidding weather. For some strange meteorological reason, savage, tornadolike downdrafts periodically swooped down from the heights above and fairly exploded when they struck the water, whipping the seas close inshore into a frenzy of spindrift and forth. Hussey thought they were the “williwaws,” sudden burst of wind peculiar to coastal areas in polar regions. It was one of these, apparently, that had nearly caught the Docker the morning before.
SHACKLETON 一行憑著一艘小船 , 進入了南極圈裏最為險惡的水域 DRAKE PASSAGE., 在冰冷的風浪裏搏擊 . 終於到達 SOUTH GEORGIA, 因為航行實在太危險 . 他們選擇了徒步翻越島上的雪上去到那一邊的捕鯨站 . 由於沒有詳細地圖 , 他們一再走錯 , 登上雪峰後又發現無法穿越峽穀 , 不得不重新下來再爬另一處 . 幾經周折 , 他們終於到達了捕鯨站 . 沒有人相信他們憑著一條小船 , 在這樣的天氣和水域航行 , 而沒有沉沒 . 下麵是一段關於他們重新回到文明世界的描寫 :
Just then he heard an outcry and looked up. Two small boys about eleven years old were running, not in play but in terror. Behind them Andersen saw the figures of three men walking slowly and with great weariness in his direction.
He was puzzled. They were strangers, certainly. But that was not so unusual as the fact that they were coming – not from the docks, where a ship might come in, but from the direction of the mountains, the interior of the island.
As they drew closer, he saw that they were heavily bearded and their faces were almost black except for their eyes. Their hair was as long as a woman’s and hung down almost to their shoulders. For some reason it looked stringy and stiff. Their clothing was peculiar, too. It was not the sweaters and boots worn by seamen. Instead, the three men appeared to have on parkas, though it was hard to tell because their garments were in such a ragged state.
By then the workmen had stopped what they were doing to stare at the three strangers approaching. The foreman stepped forward to meet them. The man in the center spoke English.
“Would you please take us to Anton Andersen,” he said softly.
The foreman shook his head, Anton Andersen was not at Stromness any longer, he explained. He had been replaced by the regular factory manager, THoralf Sorlle.
The Englishman seemed pleased.”Good” He said. “I know Sorlle well.”
The foreman led the way to Sorlle’s house, about a hundred yards off to the right. Almost all the workmen on the pier had left their jobs to come see the three strangers who had appeared at the dock. Now they lined the route, looking curiously at the foreman and his three companions.
Andersen knocked at the manager’s door, and after a moment Sorlle himself opened it. He was in his shirt sleeves, and he still sported his big handlebar mustache.
When he saw the three men, he stepped back and a look of disbelief came over his face. For a long moment he stood shocked and silent before he spoke.
“Who are you?” he said at last.
The man in the center stepped forward.
“My name is Shackleton,” he replied in a quiet voice.
Again there was silence. Some said that Sorlle turned away and wept.
之後幾天內 ,SHACKLETON 等人出發回去救援剩餘的人 , 但失敗了 . 此後他不停努力 , 尋求合適的船隻 , 終於在 1916 年 8 月 30 日回到 ELEPHANT ISLAND, 成功救出所有船員 . 那一刻的激動 , 無以言表 .
SHACKLETON成功回到ELEPHANT ISLAND救援他的船員們
船上有生物學家 , 攝影家等 . 攝影家後來將照片公布於世 , 成了這次傳奇式探險的最好記錄 .
在這本書裏 , 沒有豪言壯語 , 沒有人們想象中的奇特 . 但就是在對日常生活細密的描寫裏 , 表現了船員們的心理變化 , 所作的努力 , 以及所承受的壓力 . 文中一直存有一種信念 , 樂觀 , 和不懈的努力 . 其實最難的就是忍耐 , 幾乎無望中 , 無可作為的忍耐 . 等待冰塊裂開 , 期望大風將它吹向要去的方向 …… 無盡的期待 , 和耐心 . 很多時候最難的努力就是適應環境 , 保持耐心 . 忍耐當時艱苦得難以想象的生活 .
故事也讓我看到船員性格裏的頑強 , 以及船長的果斷 , 堅毅 , 忠實 . 他關心自己的船員 , 竭盡全力保護了他們的安全 .SIR ERNEST SHACKETON 高大英俊 , 完完全全一個探險家的形象 .
主要大事 :
South Georgia August1914
Cleared the Pack Jan 9 1915
Endurance Abandoned ,Oct 27 1915
Endurance Sank Nov 21 1915
Ocean Camp Oct 30- Dec 23
Patience Camp Jan 1- Apri 9 1916
Swell Mar 9
Boat launched Apr 9
Elephant Isla nd
Caird lauched Apri 24
Landed King Haakon Bay may 10 1916
South Georgia climbed the mountains across the island
Rescue Aug 30 1916
