大千世界五彩人生
探索不盡的大千世界, 韻味無窮的五彩人生. 感悟於生活的原創。
"麥迪遜公園十一號"（Eleven Madison Park）簡寫成EMP，是紐約七星俱樂部成員之一. 我這裏所說的七星俱樂部是指米其林三顆星，加上紐約時報的四顆星. 目前隻有四家紐約餐廳獲此殊榮。十一麥迪遜公園還在久負盛名的S. Pellegrino的世界50家最佳餐廳2013年名單上排名第五。這是所有紐約餐廳在此名單上的最高排名。[1]
麥迪遜公園十一號近一年前將它的品嚐菜單價格從$195提至225美元。這樣，兩個人的晚餐，加上每道菜的配對葡萄酒，稅和小費，價格為954美元。從而，十一麥迪遜公園成為紐約第五個最昂貴的餐廳。
麥迪遜公園十一號主廚 Daniel Humm 不僅使用食品分子烹調新技術，還把製作過程像表演節目一樣呈現在餐桌上。近三個半小時的用餐，你能見到老式絞肉機，烤盤，小推車，化學製劑瓶,魔術撲克牌，等等。客人不僅享受了味美，精致，色彩亮麗的食品，還要親自上手參與製作食品。是一次很有趣的飲食體驗。
在用餐即將結束時，我被約請去參觀廚房。經理讓甜點師專為我做了一道甜飲料：Arnold Palmer。我親眼看到了幹淨.整潔又有序的廚房和工作節奏極其緊張的35名廚師和6位甜點師。
在我走出廚房的時候,看到了使我感觸頗深的“麥迪遜公園十一號”貼在牆上的座右銘。 座右銘是：“Make It Nice.”
下麵是麥迪遜公園十一號2013秋季主廚品嚐菜單。
第一道：CHEDDAR奶酪小餅幹 - 鹹味黑與白的蘋果醬小餅幹
紐約傳統黑色和白色的小餅幹通常用香草和巧克力軟糖製成。但這餅幹是鹹味的。有點像奶酪餅幹。在裏麵加了點蘋果醬是其味道很有趣。..
1st: CHEDDAR - Savory Black and White Cookie with Apple
It looks like New York black-and-white cookie which usually made with vanilla fondant and chocolate fondant. This biscuit is made of savory, and tasted like a cheese cracker 。 Some applesauce in between makes it tasted very interesting.
第二道：生蠔 - 康科德紫葡萄，碾碎的幹小麥，和酸模草
生蠔是非常鮮，嫩，海鮮味十足。康科德葡萄先冷凍再打磨成粉。康科德葡萄的香味道融化人生蠔。 這是一道很有想像力的菜。
2nd: OYSTER -Grapes, Bulgar Wheat, and Sorrel
The Oyster was extremely fresh, tender with full flavor of the ocean. The Concord grape was frozen first and then powdered, Grape taste melted into oyster which is a fantastic creativity.
第三道：蝦：醃海膽，鵝肝，和細葉芹。
醃過的海膽，磨成粉，調成汁，澆在甜美的緬因州大蝦上。鵝肝醬配上綠色的細葉芹泡沫。好味道！。
3rd: SHRIMP: Marinated with Sea Urchin, Foie Gras, and Chervil
Sea urchin sauce coats sweet Maine shrimp. Foie gras paste with chervil foam. Good taste!
第4道：第一部分 - 熏鱘魚-沙巴翁與香蔥油
泡沫狀沙巴翁，澆在綠色韭菜油製的熏鱘魚塊上。熏鱘魚切丁與綠色香蔥油放在一個開口的蛋殼低部。使用雞蛋與苦艾酒調出來的沙巴翁在上麵.香蔥油味道真好.由於香蔥油是在雞蛋的底部，所以,你一定要用勺將蛋內原料攪動一番後, 才能每口都吃到真正的味道.
4th Part One: STURGEON - Sabayon with Chive Oil
Creamy Sabayon covers a base of chunks of smoked sturgeon in green chive oil. Smoked sturgeon with green chive oil is at the bottom of the egg shell. Sabayon is on the top part of the shell. I love the flavor of smoked sturgeon in the chive oil. You need to use the spoon to stir everything up then start eating. In that way, you will taste everything in one bite.
第4道：第二部分：鱘魚 - 煙熏的百吉餅碎末，醬菜，和魚子醬
這道菜是厚片的熏鱘魚, 魚子醬，醬黃瓜, 生菜,半個煮鵪鶉蛋和煙熏的百吉餅碎末. 熏鱘魚用一個鍾形的玻璃罩送上桌來. 打開玻璃罩, 熏鱘魚片下麵是冒著煙的蘋果炭木.
這道精致的開胃菜包含了熏鱘魚的美味結合烤麵包的脆香,又加上醬菜的酸,生菜的甜,魚子醬的鹹，奶酪的奶油香.真可謂是味道豐富.
4th Part Two: STURGEON - Smoked with Everything Bagel Crumble, Pickles and Caviar
This dish combine together beautifully as the thick slice of delicious smoked sturgeon is combined with the crispy thin bread, tart of pickles, sweet lettuce, , salty caviar and creamy cheese. All come together with a wonderful taste
麵包, 黃油, 帶有鹿肉的黃油. 麵包鬆軟, 酥脆.小麻袋保溫很好.
Bread, Butter, and Butter fortified with Venison Trimmings
這是一道超出想像的菜。微鹹鵝肝分層夾在3片極薄的香甜脆層中. 經糖漿浸過的李子帶有酸甜味。 李子醬使酸甜味更足。杏仁不苦,卻增加了香味.
5th: FOIE GRAS - Terrine with Plum and Bitter Almond
This is a remarkable taste and visual dish. 3 sweet crisp layers of sandwich presented with blocks of foie gras, Both layers and foie gras were cut in a perfect condition. Sweet and sour pickled plum scrupled plum bits with plum jelly. Almond added even more flavor.
第六道：胡蘿卜 – 絞碎的胡蘿卜,黑麥麵包片和調味品
這是充滿趣味的一道蔬菜. 胡蘿卜來自紐約州北部的一家農場.一位年輕的小夥子用最傳統的手搖絞肉機在你麵前將胡蘿卜絞碎。胡蘿卜軟,甜.配上用鵪鶉蛋，鹽，辣醬，青魚末等千奇百味的組合。有意思!
“韃靼”一詞使我回憶起了上個世紀九十年代在德國享用的韃靼牛堡.盛調味品的盤子使我想起了化學實驗室.
6th: CARROT - Tartare with Rye Bread and Condiments
This is a very interesting dish. It’s time for you to hand on! Carrots came from Upstate New York and was grinded by a traditional meat grinder. The carrot was sweet and moist. Once you add every piece of seasonings – the combination with quails egg, salt, carrot vinaigrette, bluefish shavings. It is a good invention to serve the vegetables. The word “Tartare” reminded me that the tartare Hamburg I had in German back in ninety’s . The plate which holds the all kinds condiment reminded me of a chemical lab.
第七道：龍蝦 - 甘藍和醃意大利豬肉
Guanciale是用豬的麵頰或腮幫子未經熏烤得製成的意大利式鹹肉。一片薄得透明Guanciale搭在一段龍蝦上.烤焦的抱子甘藍撚成末，與綠色的抱子甘藍, 紅色的龍蝦 和褐色的Guanciale很漂亮. 確切地說,龍蝦味道不夠鮮美,並且烤過了頭.
7th: LOBSTER: Poached with Brussel Sprouts and Guanciale
Guanciale is an unsmoked Italian bacon prepared with pig’s jaw or cheeks. A thin slice of Guanciale draped on a piece of lobster, with brussel sprout puree, roasted leaves of brussel sprout, brussel sprout crumble, and roasted whole brussel sprouts. Lobster did not have much taste. It was also overcooked.
烤製過程中的南瓜: 填滿黃油和香料的南瓜。發酵麵包環繞南瓜開口以防止香味跑掉.
Butternut Squash pasted with butter and herbs within. A sourdough ring is pasted on the squash to keep the aromatics in.
第八道：南瓜-用蔓越莓，南瓜子和發酵麵包烤製
南瓜有著秋天的顏色,南瓜是秋天的象征. 滿地紅紅的蔓越莓在告訴你這是新英格蘭的秋天.這道菜的亮點是完美的塗著糖釉的烤南瓜種子. 雞油菌蘑菇醬和雞絕對使這道菜成為純樸的秋天的代表作.
8th: SQUASH - Roasted with Cranberries, Pumpkin Seeds and Sourdough
Squash has color of fall and the red cranberry means the harvest season of New England. The pumpkin seeds were perfectly roasted with a layer of crispy glaze. Chanterelle mushroom puree and chicken made this dish a good representation of New England fall.
這道主菜有兩種選擇：烤鴨肉或烤鹿肉。鴨子每天都可以吃到。我選了鹿肉。秋天是狩獵季節。鹿是這一季節的首要獵物。吃過不同燒製過程的鹿肉，我想嚐一嚐“十一麥迪遜公園”的鹿肉做得怎麽樣。這是製作過程中的鹿肉。
第九道 第一部分：烤肉串 - 鹿肉灌腸，珍珠洋蔥和雞油菌燒烤
這一項是菜單上沒有的，服務員拿上一個閃亮的不鏽鋼手提帶蓋的烤爐。 她把烤爐蓋拿掉，我一眼看到裏麵紅紅的熱炭。肉串需要烤一分鍾。是我自己要看著烤。
9th Part One: VENISON: Grilled with Pearl Onions and Chanterelles
Waitress brought a shiny stainless steel portable covered grill to the table. Removal of the cover reveals a bed of hot charcoal and a grate on which rests small skewers with grilled meat. I was told to monitor the skewer for one minute. It was fun and delicious.
第9道 第二部分：烤鹿肉，梨和Sunchokes
Sunchokes是像芋頭一類的根莖植物。鹿肉烤得很嫩。我點對了
9th Part Two: VENISON- Roasted with Pears and Sunchokes
I made a good choice. Venison was tender and tasted great!
第十道：奶酪 -椒鹽脆餅，芥末，和香檳葡萄
吃過主道菜，是該吃奶酪的時候了。 服務員給了我一個野餐籃，讓我自己解開蓋布去發現裏麵有什麽。原來裏麵有佛蒙特州碧玉山軟外皮幹酪，專門為EMP製作並老化了3周的啤酒。 紫芥末醬，橄欖和很甜的葡萄。啤酒和奶酪都很棒。
10th: GREENSWARD - Pretzel, Mustard, and Champagne Grapes
Jasper Hill soft rind cheese from Vermont, washed with Ale specially bottled for EMP, and aged for 3 weeks in Bleecker Caves. Violet Wasabi jam. Very sweet grapes。
第十一道：麥芽奶昔 - 雞蛋與香草奶油和帶氣的水
甜食從此道開始. 我是一個對甜食不太感興趣的人。但我得承認，奶昔味道很好。
11th: MALT: Egg Cream with Vanilla and Seltzer
第十二道：蘋果 冰糕與月桂葉，焦糖布丁和芙蓉花
顏色漂亮的蜂蜜焦糖布丁。
12th: Apple Sorbet with Bay Leaf, Crème Brûlée, and Hibiscus
第十三道：紅薯芝士蛋糕與蜂蜜和栗子
13th: SWEET POTATO: Cheesecake with Honey and Chestnut
服務員用牌變出了我的巧克力品種.
第十四道：塗了巧克力與海鹽的椒鹽脆餅
14th: PRETZEL: Chocolate Covered with Sea Salt
你想喝多少就喝多少的威士忌。
帶回家的早餐.
幹淨的廚房 1: 甜點準備區.
幹淨的廚房 2: 主菜準備區.
特地為我做的甜食:"Arnold Palmer".
十一麥迪遜公園的座右銘是:”Make It Nice.”
Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave
New York, NY 10010
http://elevenmadisonpark.com/
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