歐洲騎行（7）— 意大利 Pfunds（奧地利）to Rasia Reschen am See

9/16 VCA第六天

晴，氣溫：6-20度。Pfunds（奧地利） to Rasia Reschen am See（意大利）30公裏，2500英尺攀升

今天雖然隻騎了短短的30公裏，卻翻過了一個山口（Reschen Pass) 經過了三個國家：從奧地利出發，經過瑞士，到達意大利。

其實今天的Reschenpass和昨天的Fernpass騎行的升高差不多，但是Fernpass的自行車道是沿著古羅馬的老路，全程碎石，下山尤其陡峭險峻。而Reschenpass的自行車道最陡峭的部分（11道急轉彎）是沿著本地小公路修的自行車線（大卡車和主要交通都不走這裏）。所以今天這個山口咱們要騎上去！

今晚住的小鎮有個很長的名字“Rasia Reschen am See“。事出反常必有故事：話說第一次世界大戰後，奧匈帝國戰敗，被意大利將這一片大好河山割了去（包括世界聞名的旅遊勝地多洛米蒂山區Dolomites)。Reschen是這裏原來奧地利的德文名字，而意大利將其改名叫Rasia，am See 是德文的”湖邊“。國籍改了，可本地居民們沒變，那些世世代代說德語的原奧地利人雖然現在變成意大利人了，卻還是習慣用德文的老名字。於是為了兩邊不得罪，本地名就變成了德語+意大利兩個名稱的疊加。

1、沿著碧色的因河，朝著山中雲霧之處騎行

2、路上的景色和湍急的因河

3、因河畔的Altfinstermunz 是古羅馬大道上的城堡和關卡。有關Altfinstermunz的介紹在文後。

左上：比我們早來一步的自行車大隊伍從古堡裏魚貫而出；右下：古羅馬時代的大輪子和中世紀的小輪子都在這裏的岩石上留下了印記。

4、古城堡之後又是陡峭的山坡，LD爬得很辛苦

5、上：騎過奧地利和瑞士國境；下：從奧地利進入意大利

6、挑戰來了！翻越Reschenpass。上：看到公路轉彎處的“10”號標牌嗎？一共有11個這樣的急轉彎，才能到達山口。下：在第5個轉彎後，往下看，已經爬了很高了。可是，還有6個更高的彎要爬！

7、Yes！我們騎上來了！放眼望去，山那邊一路下坡！

8、路上。右下：今天的目的地Rasia Reschen am See在望。

9、我的晚餐：蔬菜沙拉和烤鱸魚。我倆一人一杯酒，慶祝今天勝利騎過Reschen pass。下圖：超市裏賣的各種香腸和火腿，第一種香腸是馬肉和豬肉混合的。

吃完晚飯回到旅館，到桑拿房去好好蒸了蒸，把6天來的疲勞驅除體外。明天在Reschen休整一天。

 

Altfinstermunz

Finstermünz (from 1856 Altfinstermünz, Romanish Vestmezia) is a medieval courthouse and border fortification on Via Claudia Augusta in the Finstermünz Gorge of the same name. The festival is located in the municipal area of Nauders in Tyrol, at the foot of the Finstermünz Pass, where the old road from the Reschen Pass, which was used until 1854, reaches the Inn in the direction of Pfunds and Landeck, which forms the border between Tyrol (Austria) and Graubünden (Switzerland). Here was already before the 10th. Century a court seat.

History

The Roman Via Claudia Augusta over the Reschen Pass, which led past Finstermünz, was one of the most important Alpine transitions until the 2nd century AD. Only with the expansion of the Brennerstraße did the connection only have regional significance.

In the early Middle Ages, the territory of Churrätien, which was subordinated to the diocese of Chur, which ruled the Inn Valley from the southwest to Finstermünz, formed from the Raetia prima. From there to the northeast, the former Raetia belonged to the diocese of Säben-Brixen. Around 550, the western half of the ancient Raetia up to the Lech was under Frankish sovereignty, the eastern half belonged to the Duchy of Bavaria. From 9th to 11th In the 1st century, Altfinstermünz was the place of court for the region of Lower Engadin, Nauders and Pfunds. In 1078, Duke Welf of Bavaria stationed an occupation in the war war against the bishops of Chur in the "Clusa" (nenge or cloister of Altfinstermünz). In 1159, Altfinstermünz was first mentioned in a document as "Vinestana silva" ("forest of Finstermünz"). The word Finstermünz comes from the Indo-European mintsja in the meaning "proting rock". Etymologically plausible is also a derivation of Venosta resp. Vinschgau, so Vinschgermünz, customs station on the way to / from Vinschgau.

From about 1300, customs duties were already collected here; however, the oldest toll tariffs have only been handed down from 1534. After 1472, Archduke Sigismund of Austria had the Siegmundsegg border fortification and a bridge over the Inn at this strategically favorable location.