陀飛輪裝置與鑽石媲美(組圖)

　　相同的表款，有陀飛輪裝置的，一下子就貴出十倍！所以，把陀飛輪與鑽石媲美，絕對有過之而無不及。

　　從另一個角度說，腕表表盤上的陀飛輪和鑽石一樣，更像是一種奢華的裝飾。以前，陀飛輪隻應用在垂直放置的懷表上，地心引力對於腕表來說並非要害，可是，真正的製表大師願意用“陀飛輪”來彰顯品牌實力，而腕表的主人，則願意用這種精致而昂貴的機械裝置炫耀身份與品位。尤其是男人，複雜機械對他們具有神秘的吸引力。

　　或許，這就是陀飛輪成為大熱門的原因。

　　講述陀飛輪，肯定會涉及不少機械方麵的知識，如果你對機械“不感冒”，讀起來肯定形同嚼蠟。所以，本文特為你準備了菜鳥版文字，作為談資也可以冒充專家

具有Helwig陀飛輪裝置的格拉蘇蒂腕表

　　 DANIEL ROTH陀飛輪腕表，是陀飛輪中的佼佼者，雖然以珠寶作為裝飾，但是掩蓋不住自身的高超技術體現，8天動力儲存功能保證了陀飛輪機構的長時間運轉。

Breguet陀飛輪

　　三種陀飛輪

　　Tourbillon在法語中代表“旋轉”的意思，也意味著陀飛輪裝置的轉動。三種陀飛輪，如果從外觀上看，就是不同的旋轉動態。

　　Breguet陀飛輪，陀飛輪的最初模樣

　　1801年，製表奇才Breguet取得陀飛輪的專利權。這個偉大的發明有一個能夠旋轉的框架，其中容納了遊絲擺輪（機芯的心髒）和擒縱器等構件。當飛輪框架在均勻地旋轉時，擺輪和擒縱器也在自身運動的同時不斷地改換位置，因此最大限度地抵消了引力的影響（尤其是表被垂直的放置時作用更為明顯）。從一隻19世紀初為土耳其市場製造的Breguet懷表中，我們可以發現當年陀飛輪的模樣。

　　Breguet陀飛輪由“旋轉框架”和“固定支架”兩部分基本構件組成。“擺輪夾板”附屬在旋轉框架中，隨飛輪一起旋轉。

　　Helwig陀飛陀，飛陀框架懸浮飛行

　　1927年，鍾表學教授Alfred Helwig在德國製作了“飛行陀飛輪”的模型，之所以會出現“飛行”二字，是因為在這種結構中沒有了“固定支架”構件，從外觀看上去，取消了橫在飛輪結構上的支架，整個旋轉框架是懸浮起來的，提高了飛輪表運轉時的神秘感和動態藝術美，自然，製造工藝也更高超。

　　中國陀飛輪，神秘的旋轉藝術

　　千萬別以為陀飛輪隻是瑞士鍾表大師的專利，1993年，中國人矯大羽在香港的“天儀軒”鍾表工作室，首創發明並親手製造成功了“神奇陀飛輪”，這一破天荒的發明迅速轟動了國際鍾表界，所以它也被稱為“矯氏神奇陀飛輪”或“中國陀飛輪”。為什麽稱之為“神奇”呢？原因有二：一、傳統的飛輪“旋轉框架”與“固定支架”都不存在了；至少減輕了飛輪的一半重量，提高走時的精度和穩定性，同時增強了防震的性能。二、使用透明玻璃替代了原本用金屬製造的擺輪夾板，而且這塊夾板不再隨著飛輪一起轉動。這種結構在運轉時顯得更加神秘莫測，大大提高了飛輪表的動感藝術。

什麽是陀飛輪

　　“陀飛輪”(Tourbillon)，是指機械鍾表中的“旋轉擒縱調速機構”，這種裝置的特點是擺輪和擒縱機構在自身運行的同時還能夠一起作360度旋轉，所以最大限度減小了地心引力的影響，提高了走時精度。它代表了機械表製造工藝中的極高水平，由於其獨特的運行方式，已經把鍾表的動感藝術美發揮到登峰造極的地步，所以裝配有陀飛輪裝置的表款往往價值不斐。具體是多少？３０萬人民幣以上吧。

　　菜鳥談資：表在不同角度受到的地心引心不同，會造成細微的誤差，陀飛輪就是克服這種誤差的精密裝置，讓表平放豎放走得一樣精準。它的重量不超過0.3克，卻由七十多個精細組件組成，大部分為手工製作，這就是它昂貴的原因。

　　陀飛輪看上去很美

　　菜鳥談資：在懷表時代,陀飛輪表往往將其陀飛輪裝置隱藏在表殼之內，而現在，陀飛輪裝置都可以通過表盤上的窗口一目了然，讓人盡情欣賞它的奧妙所在。精密機械本身就有一種視覺美感，更何況這麽昂貴，一定得讓所有人都看得見啊!

　　1867年，Constant Girard推出“三金橋”陀飛輪懷表，不僅在巴黎舉行的世界博覽會上獲得金獎，而且成為鍾表曆史上最經典作品，其機芯主要由黃金材料製造的三個橋狀夾板支撐，展現了陀飛輪機芯的整體視覺美感。

　　寶珀飛行陀飛輪手表，透視的表盤將機芯的多種裝置一覽無餘，尤其是位於12點刻度方位的飛行陀飛輪裝置好像是一隻正在展翅飛翔的天鵝。

　　HARRY WINSTON陀飛輪手表，是與Peter Speake-Marin聯手合作的產物，在機芯上采用了雙動力儲存顯示機構，無疑又是一大創新的表款。

　　聖寶萊限量推出女裝陀飛輪機械表，表明了對複雜機械表的熱愛已不再是男士的專利，8K玫瑰金表殼內裝配了手動機械機芯，而聖寶萊的標誌——SH縮寫字母則作為“旋轉框架”的圖案，可謂一舉兩得。

女人也愛陀飛輪

　　菜鳥談資：２００６年，世界表壇呈現一股強勁的潮流——女裝腕表多功能化。除了美鑽點綴和時尚造型，女人們對腕表的要求變得越來越男性化了，不管是不是真的對機械感興趣，至少，與男人平等的立場要表明。

　　1997年，芝柏表廠推出女裝“三金橋”陀飛輪手表，不僅將陀飛輪表帶入了女性的世界，而且延續了"表中蒙娜麗莎"的美譽，三條用於固定零部件的金質支架平行地排列在表盤之下。近年來設計的“Cat's Eye Tourbillon”表款，則在表殼的造型、色彩的搭配等方麵下足了工夫，將陀飛輪表打扮得更加嫵媚。

　　真利時的首隻女裝陀飛輪表——Starissime，最大的亮點在於功能與設計的巧妙組合，除了在表殼和表盤等處鑲有230顆共重9.8克拉的鑽石，讓人直接聯想到這是深受女性寵愛的表款，同時,陀飛輪固定支架也被設計成為星形，它還采用了ELPrimero機芯，是世界唯一一款結合超高頻率計時和陀飛輪裝置的機芯。

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Joseph Chevalier with tourbillon
Cal. CH 1760

Andrew Babanin

Tourbillon till now is one of the most complicated devices, made by watchmakers. Invented by king of watchmakers Abraham Louis Breguet tourbillon was made to improve accuracy of watches. That time it was quite uneasy to produce high precision parts where physical center was equal to the mathematical one. That's why the rate of watches was unstable in different positions because of influence of gravity. Breguet invented self compensating system where you could use normally produced parts (lower precision). He put parts of the escapement into the special rotating cage. A balance wheel for a minute was in all its positions, compensating gaining or slow-down appeared in certain positions. I should notice, that Breguet invented tourbillon only for pocket watches, usually placed in vertical positions. After Breguet's death only a few manufactures still produced tourbillobns. After the crisis of Swiss watch industry some manufacturers began to produce tourbillon again. I would say, that for wrist watches this complication is doubtful concerning reliability and accuracy, but till now it is most prestigious among other complications.

Fig
1. Limited edition

There are not too many tourbillon producers in the world. I would like to review Joseph Chevalier movement CH 1760, based on Progress 6361. Progress is quite famous because of the affray. The manufacture was established by ex-engineers of ETA SA. They used some ETA inventions. Besides this caliber was the first "folk" tourbillon - the price of watch was around 20000 US dollars!!! It was unpleasant to other manufacturers, so Progress was close to bankruptcy. Now it is called STT (Swiss Time Technologies). I would like to mention, that only 6 Swiss and a few German watch producers ventured to make watches with this caliber. Among them there are: Jacques Etoile, Alain Silberstein, Chronoswiss, Frederique Constant, Harry Winston and Joseph Chevalier.

Fig
2. The movement is hand engraved

The base caliber is Progress 6361 with 23 jewels, minute tourbillon and stop second feature. Diameter of the movt is 30 mm, height 5.4 mm, power reserve - 72 hours. Shock protecting device is Incabloc. It is flying tourbillon with the balance wheel placed in the center of the cage. The cage is fixed from the only side.

Fig 3. There are well finished parts under the dial. Circular Graining in the bridges, blued screws

Pay attention to the Fig.4. Minute wheel and keyless works are very common to ETA design. Moreover, you can find the 3rd wheel and intermediate wheel very common to ETA ones.

Fig
4. Keyless works in the best traditions of ETA movts

Tourbillon needs extra power, so you cannot use normal mainspring. There are two ways: to use stronger mainspring or to use two barrels. As a result - better performance and 3 days power reserve.

Fig
5. There are two barrels to give extra power

Fig
6. Mainspring bridges. Design is common to ETA 2892-А2

Let's jump to the most interesting device - the cage. As I told before - it is fixed to the bridge in the only point. Pay attention to the fig.7. Central jewel is a car jewel of the balance wheel with Incabloc shock protection. The cage is set in ball bearing and fixed with a special bolt very common to oscillating weight bolt of ETA 2892A2 movt. The ball bearing has 7 ruby balls.

Fig
7. The ball bearing is based on 7 ruby balls

The hairspring is flat and mounted in not moving stud. The index has device very common to ETACHRON, so if you want to adjust a gap between pins you can simply turn this brass device to some angle.

Fig
8. The part of cage and index are look like a small second hand

Second wheel is fixed firmly to the bridge. The escape wheel pinion moves among it and rotates the whole cage. There are teeth on the outer part of cage. With these teeth the cage interacts with the wheel train.

Fig
9. Dismounted tourbillon

The balance wheel is a bit strange, with enlarged axle. In this way producer placed cap jewel to the level of bridge surface - easier to maintain.

Fig
10. The balance is with strange rim and long axle

The cage is disassembled. Escapement bridge is dismounted. The pallet fork is made as a lever - for the better composition (also to place the balance in the center of the cage). Both banking pins are from the one side of the pallet fork - very original decision.

Рис
11. Banking pins are from the one side of the pallet fork

In conclusion I would like to say that I like this movement. It has the most modern decisions, passed thru many years of trials. The cage is fixed easily and safely, the balance can be adjusted easily and quickly. Cannon pinion with driving wheel have the best design, ever used. There is a very reliable movement.
The only minor thing - there are no slots for easier bridge removing - there is a risk to scratch a main plate.