加拿大洛基山脈9日遊圖記5-露易絲湖

加拿大洛基山脈9日遊圖記5-露易絲湖

 

第五日 露易絲湖

 

    昨天趕了一天的路，大家都有些累，晚餐很想腐敗一番。無奈露易絲湖地狹人稀，根本稱不上是一個城鎮，巴掌大塊兒地方除了旅館就是旅館，連一條像樣的街道都沒有。所有的商業店鋪都集中在一個小小的plaza裏，計有餐館2～3家，禮品店2～3家，另有不知名堂店鋪若幹。與飲食相關的餐館，基本上就是三明治店和pizza店，後者因為時間太晚隻能分片出售，一片3.75元。好在有一個小小的超市，裏麵售賣一些三明治以及麵包水果泡麵等等，三明治的價格是5～7 元，於是各家分頭購物各自消費不提。

 

    清晨起床，猶豫再三，沒有去驚動團友一同晨運，獨自駕車奔了露易絲湖。昨天旁晚，湖畔匆匆一遊，感覺非常失望，鼎鼎大名的露易絲湖居然景色一般般，而且遊客眾多，喧鬧不堪。

 

    心有不甘，特意起個大早，希望早上的晨光，能夠展現露易絲湖的特有風采。

 

下圖： 色彩馬馬虎虎，但是湖深處的雪山卻曝光過度。這一刻，俺湧起了扔掉傻瓜升級單反的強烈衝動：）

下圖： 對於俺這樣的懶人，大概再武裝一個濾光鏡什麽的，會有助於拍攝這樣的景致。

    露易絲湖的周邊有很多著名的步道，對於菜鳥而言，可以選擇的有Lakeshore和Lake Agnes，前者沿著湖畔，直抵山腳下的冰川，全長7公裏；後者折轉上山，經過Tea House，抵達Little Beehive，全長4公裏。俺猶豫了一下，選擇了上山的路徑。因為此前團友曾經計劃在露易絲湖搞一個健行，俺想當然以為是沿湖的步道，因為平坦易行，適宜層次不同的團友共行。結果，俺犯了主觀主義的錯誤，此是後話。

 

下圖： 一路慢跑上山，半小時後抵達Mirror Lake--一根立柱般的石峰下麵，一個圓圓的小湖。

下圖： 10分鍾後，登臨Lake Agnes。湖畔的出水口的旁邊，一幢原木茶屋鄰崖而立。據說這就是世界上海拔最高的茶屋，高程是2100米！

下圖： 鏡子般平靜的Lake Agnes。

 

下圖： 這條筆直的豎線，把山體切割成為兩半。俺猜想，這一定是近期的地質活動造成的，因為山腳下分界線右側的林木，尚未長齊。

下圖： 告別Teahosue，繼續上山。走出林帶，眼前一亮，路易絲湖的美景，猛地震了俺一下。

 

下圖： 遠山近嶺，俱有故事。遠處的雪山，依次為Mt Aberdeen和Mt Lefroy，此處孕育著好幾條大冰川；近處是Big Beehive，如果您好事，可以右擊本圖，view原圖，放大之後，山頂上麵居然修築了一個觀景亭！

下圖： 路易絲湖及其鄰近的穀地。湖口的建築，是為The Fairmont Chateau酒店。這座商業建築，是當年加拿大政府為振興經濟所為，是否對於環境造成了負麵影響，一直爭議不休。

 

下圖： 經過一小時的攀爬，終於抵達2225米高的Little Beehive。路易絲湖穀地的美景，靜悄悄地展現在麵前，令人窒息。這張圖是此次旅行中拍到的最滿意的幾張之一，俺隻把上麵天空部分裁掉了一部分，並未做任何其它的PS處理甚至沒有壓縮尺寸。因此，這應該就是洛磯山脈的原始之美。

 

    在山頂盤桓片刻，飛步下山。奔跑在山野密林之間，美則美矣，就是有些瘮人，因為有關洛磯山脈野熊出沒的傳說聽的實在有些多，生怕突然撞上一隻：）

    怕啥來啥，前方幾十米遠的步道上一個黑影一閃，黑熊！趕緊用相機的長焦一看，黑色不明動物，移動很慢，不是黑熊！移步向前，那黑物還是在路上磨磨蹭蹭，不肯離開小路，到底是個啥東西？

 

下圖： 一直逼近不到10米的距離，方才大致看清，是一個刺蝟模樣的圓滾滾的家夥！嗬嗬，衝上前去，給丫的拍了一張！

 

    回到旅館，因為俺獨自脫隊的行徑，慘遭團友鄙視不提。早餐後，集體整隊前往Moraine Lake。一路之上，前往該湖的車輛排成一串，趕集般地熱鬧。10點不到，湖畔的停車場幾乎塞滿。

 

    下車一瞧，賣糕的，Moraine Lake實在太美了！湖水湛藍，山峰壁立，鬱鬱蔥蔥的冷杉，星星點點的遊艇，最絕的是，這些要素還有機地組合在一個不大的天地之間，隨便拿一個什麽相機上去拍上一張，都是一幅絕美的畫卷。真是搞不懂為啥路易絲湖的名氣反而是如此之大？！

 

下圖： Moraine Lake湖口。

 

下圖： 湖口的旁邊是一座小山，俺們剛剛爬上去，就遠遠地望見停車場的遊客紛紛往旁邊的山坡上擁了過去，掏出望遠鏡一瞧，棕熊！一家4口，一媽三仔，悠哉遊哉地在距離停車場不到50米的山坡上吃果子！

 

下圖： 拍照的母女倆。

下圖： 湛藍湛藍的Moraine Lake湖水。多麽藍的湖啊，跳進去，就會融化在湖水裏。。。

    團友分成三組，有人劃船，有人健行，有人打牌。打牌的是一夥兒男孩子，他們坐在湖畔小山的頂上，忍受著蚊蟲的叮咬，圍成一圈玩優優卡，完全漠視周遭的美麗景色，不是一般的淡定。

 

下圖： 湖上泛舟的一家三口。

下圖： 金字塔形狀的冰磧及其倒影，一葉小舟點綴其中。

 

下圖： 寧靜一刻的畫麵。

下圖： 湖畔小憩的男女。

下圖： 回到停車場，聞訊趕來的拯救老熊的組織正在這裏做宣傳。因為今早的棕熊現身，過於接近人類，為防止意外發生，他們驅車趕到此地，以防不測。這些製成標本的熊隻，就是因為種種原因被這一組織擊斃的。因此，為了防止熊類不至於過分接近人類以造成意外，首要的任務就是不要亂扔垃圾。

 

    中午時分，隊伍拉到了gondo纜車站。午餐就在這裏解決。

 

下圖：如果隻是坐纜車，成人票價是26。75，如果加上自助午餐，票價是33.25。因此，當然是連吃帶玩了。俺們又搞到了group票價，每人又便宜了好像是5塊錢。

 

 

下圖：餐廳的就餐環境還是不錯，飯菜的內容也能接受。大家夥甩開腮幫子掄開大槽牙，恨不能連晚餐也吃出來。這趟旅行，因為在吃的方麵沒有虧著，所以俺家那幾位據說都增重了，隻有俺減重2磅。命苦啊！

 

下圖：這個就是gondola。有網友說，冬天的時候，這裏是世界知名的高山滑雪場之一。

 

下圖：纜車站全部由原木搭建。

 

 

下圖：纜車上到半山腰，一大票人在觀景台上瞧風景。感覺上老中和老韓要占到一半！

 

下圖：隔著山穀，遠眺對麵的露易絲湖。

 

 

下圖：這夥人便是老韓。

 

 

下圖：偷拍一個韓國美女。

 

下圖：半山的遊覽中心，一位文質彬彬的加拿大小夥兒給俺們做了20分鍾的自然生態介紹。

 

 

下圖：聽完了講座，又在外麵的觀景台上拍了幾張雪山照。

 

 

下圖：還是雪山，不知道這些山峰是否有人爬上去過？。俺把相機放在欄杆上，用最大的放大倍數拍攝。

 

 

下圖：冰川的冰舌下麵，已經出現了一個小湖。地球看來真的暖化了。

 

 

下圖：露易絲湖纜車站全貌。

 

    下山回到旅館，有人提議去健行，路線偏偏就是今天早上俺去過的Teahouse！我靠，俺隻好二進宮：（

 

下圖：半山步道上，俯瞰露易絲湖。

 

下圖：與今早相比，Lake Agnes的色彩明顯黯淡。當時沒敢和團友指出這一點，怕被人報複：）

 

下圖：茶屋的菜單。裏麵住著兩男兩女4個小年輕，一周一輪換。他們每次上下山，都要把食品背上來，垃圾背下去。蠻寫意的生活調調。

    

    告別Teahouse，健行小組一分為二。女士們在一位男性團友的護送下，打道回府。俺們一行三人繼續向Big Beehive挺進。嗬嗬，要是再爬上一次Little Beehive，俺就大概發瘋的：）

 

下圖：隔湖相望，茶屋猶如蓬萊仙境。

 

下圖：臨近Big Beehive頂峰，對麵的雪山似乎近到觸手可及。

 

    路上為了打發時間，一位團友問了一個閑極無聊的問題：如何測量恒星到地球的距離？同樣問題，丫的在爬惠特尼峰的時候問過俺一次，當時沒答上來，現在再被問一遍，還是答不上來，答案早就忘記了：）

    接著就是打賭，丫的堅決不信在Big Beehive上麵修建了一個觀景亭，因為一路之上，小路彎曲且險峻，很難想象建築材料是如何運上去的。

    最後是下山的路上，今早俺遭遇到的那個刺蝟似的黑色動物，在同樣地點再次出現！俺說是刺蝟，丫的偏說是果子狸，還要再打一次賭！果子狸俺見過，幾年前俺家後院的deck下麵就住了一隻，轟了很久才攆走。後來還是牌長一語中的：豪豬！

 

下圖：從山上下到湖畔，已經接近9點鍾。暮色漸合，對麵的遊艇碼頭，也要打烊了。

 

 

視頻：露易絲湖畔遭遇豪豬及棕熊

 

 

 團友longlyrunner的日記

 

8/1/2011


Today was our first "official" day for the Canadian Rocky Mountain trip.
 
Downtown Calgary was pretty cold in the early morning. Weird, even at the rush hour, I didn't see many people or any traffic there. Only later did we learn that today was a Canadian national holiday.
 
Even though we afforded one night at the grant Hyatt hotel in down town,  the luxury breakfast there was way beyond us that we all decided to get a few bites at a downtown McDonalds'. It is always a hassle to collect a cohort of five families with so many kids but luckily, we were on Trans-Canada Highway-1 heading west in 1 hour after many stops, waits and endless coordination.
 
Weather couldn't be better, the sky was watery blue with a few big cotton like clouds hanging over.  Both sides of the road were  too scenic for our urbanized eyes. The land spread out up and down laden with ponds and small lakes, covered by grassland, with occasional small clusters of pine or aspen trees, leaves pitched gold by early morning sunshine. At least at one part, we saw this wide patch of bright yellow canola flowers stretching a mile long.
 
Still about 20km away, the blue-ish ridge of dagger like snow packed Rocky peaks were clearly visible. The shadow of clouds casted patches of lead colored darkness on them only making them more unreal.
 
Getting into Banff, we headed to the Banff Gondola first. The air on the top of the Sulphur Mountain was cold, crispy and clear, making the sunshine too bright to open the eyes. The freezing high wind however, was piercing like knife. I had to take out the thermal sheet from yesterday's SFM to help fence it off --- it proved  to be quite helpful.
 
Nothing changed much at the site from our last visit 3 years ago. But I did have a new discovery this time.   While it was a very spectacular panorama view from the top looking over Banff downtown, the remote Minnewanka Lake and  all high risings around, the similarity of the colors --- the sky, mountain, forest, lake and even the Bow River flew below all are in some kinds of blue --- however made it less contrast to eyes and lens.
 
The Gondola trip itself was eventless. The only notable incident happened when we queued up for the ride downward. The Little Bear stumbled on uneven floor and had his full-size hot chocolate spilled.  Pitying him the tears immediately pouring out and only the consoling from Kitten, with half of her cup calmed him down.
 
Down from the Gondola, we checked into the hotel with a nice pool and jacuzzi, a joyful surprise for the whole group.
 
Only evening saw us in some trouble when we mindlessly wander at Banff downtown, sAtangach growling, desperately looking for a restaurant that could accommodate such a big team with something decent for both kids and adults. We closely bet over another big group at Boston Pizza, but only after  30 minutes of fidgeting, saliva swallowing  and curses did we see our delicious plates finally show up, at the size very much satisfied to our starvation at the time.


8/2/2011
 
6:00am, laying back in the arm chair next to the lobby window,  I shuddered in the early morning cold waiting for Atang to run into Banff's early morning. But one book on the fireplace counter caught my eyes, "Roaring Thunder, a novel of the Jet Age".  It was my favorite , and soon I couldn't take my eyes off the serendipity the last I would expect in this old hotel .
 
Atang and I sneaked into the at about 6:30am. Through quiet downtown, we crossed the bridge over Bow River and turned to left. Following a dirt trail, in a bout 4-5km, we ran into an intersection with an emerald pond to our left and mesh land at right stretched all the way to the side of the Bow River. Now the sky is getting brighter and the eastward  tip of the nearby mountain peaks were in orange. Running back, we engaged a long ramp up over Bow Falls, a scenic site watching over the roaring water dashing through steep valley below. The grand Banff Hotel at mid of hill forest overlooked the foaming water. With 100 year history to its name, the hotel is one of the best known landmark in Banff.
 
Today the team visited Minnevanka Lake, the largest lake at Banff and the only one allow power boat in whole Banff National Park.
 
Day was sunny as yesterday but with lot less wind, a fine day for boating.
 
Our family was the first jumping into a motor boat. Seconds later, we scooted out on the big lake. Holding the control handle and watching the boat head slicing through the placid lake surface, I dreamingly saw all the reminisce of vivid memory of 3 years ago coming back in front my eyes.  The only difference, there was a new girl C on our boat now, sitting side by side with T.
 
 The center of the lake was windy and wavy, so I decided to drive alone the shore to the south side, under the shadow of  high but barren uprisings in pottery brownness. Nothing much to be found there besides the pine forest at the shore and the high pile of boulders and gravels and huge crescent  valley from massive glaciers. The view is quite conspicuous looking so close from below.
 
After many zigzag, fast and slow, and stop and go, we finally forced the boat to the furthest point the regulation permit before turning around. Soon I learned how challenge it was putting the boat back. The boat faced not only a strong head wind, but also rows after rows of strong waves.  It was pushed up and down when  cutting through white waves, splashing water everywhere. H and kids were all screaming and complaining.
 
At last, the odyssey was safely over, and the boat was perfectly docked in to the port under my experienced maneuver.
 
Lunch was resolved at Little Deli Store at side of the boat house over hotdog, burger and ice creams.
 
On our way to Two Jack Lake, we saw group of wild goats near the road. Even in mid summer, the water in the lake was icy cold, but it couldn't cool down the zest from B, Atang and I. We all jumped into the crystal blue and accomplished our feat of swimming in this wild beauty.
 
In evening, we pulled out to Silver Dragon at Banff downtown for dinner. Neither taste nor flavor  was worth noting here.
 
In evening we were at Upper Hot Spring, one of the oldest and the most famous hot springs in Banff area. In a big pool ,  I've never expected to see so many people.  To be honest, the hot spring itself was nothing spectacular, for both its view, service and experience.
 

8/3/2011 Wednesday Weather Varied

Plunging into the Emerald Lake, my whole body, from head to toe, was suddenly surrounded by this freezing coldness, so cold that my skin was in a pain of burning. My arms and legs stroke desperately in water, trying to dispel the phobia of being frozen alive.

It was strangely quiet in the water. I could only hear the bumping of my heart and ladies' talking from shore afar, fainted by clear, yet couldn't make a word. There was no water splashing, nor sounds from boat rowing nearby. My eyesight in the water was full of this bright opaque green, the same color one looking through a jade at the Sun. In the glimpse of changing breath, I stole peeks of this huge flat and placid surface of lake and a scintillate rainbow hanging over the heavy clouded sky.

The view was strange and totally different from what on land or even on boat. With my eyes lowed to the waterline I could feel the tranquility and wide open of this big greenness that I was part of now.

I knew the snow packed pyramid like mountain was there, with vernal forests extended all the way to its waist. But somehow my full consciousness was like a little guy hiding behind myself. It saw with my eyes but through a narrow tunnel . Nothing else but the water surface and the fainted rainbow in the sky was registered in my memory.

In a while, the burning pain turned into numbness, I stopped to check the direction, then continue for some distance before my leg gave up. Atong and B also got themselves into the water.

Today, we visited Emerald Lake, en route Natural Bridge and Spiral tunnel. We canoed and swam in the lake.

In the evening, we checked into Lake Louise Inn. Dinner was served at hotel restaurant but some of us sneaked out for something better with black beer.

 

8/4/2011 Thursday   Clear
 
Looking down from top the rock hill, Atang and I knew something was wrong at the parking lot below.
 
Number of people were crowded at side of grassland next to the lot. Soon from the walkie talkie, we learned from the team member below that one mother grizzly led two cubs feeding at the grassland now. Through Atang's binocular, the brown faces and blacks noses were shining under the Sun. They didn't seem to be bothered by the big crowd nearby, still easily stepped around and  happily enjoyed something tasty from the grass. But soon they were bored and retreated back into the dark forest.
 
10:00am, we were on the top of the small hill at end of Moraine lake. It is definitely one of the most impressive lake in the whole trip. Under the morning sun light, the lake was in such surreal blue so delicate and fragile. Number of noble peaks quietly sit at its back, with white snows and thick glaciers  stretched on the back, which made the lake even more impressive. 
 
While others still squeezed for photo spots on the till, Little Bear pulled us down to the lake and rent a canoe with Kitten and Claire.
 
Canoeing at different lakes the feeling was different. But what essentially the same was that the view was always better  on the lake. It was more open and, with no trees or high risings close by, easier to find a good viewpoint.
 
Back from Moraine Lake, we went directly to Louise Gondola, which was known for its buffet and overview of Lake Louise and high risings around!

Nothing more needs noted there except tons of pictures were taken. And no bears were spotted at this "Easiest Place to Spot Bear in Whole Rocky" (as from commercial).
 
Getting back to Lake Louise, few of us (Atang, B, Q, Y, H and I) decided to take a hike to Agnes Teahouse up over the lake.
 
The trail wasn't hard but view was rewarding. Elevating for  400m in about 3.4km, we passed two beautiful lakes, a lower Mirror Lake is small, and a upper Agnes Lake is big. A meager string  following steep fall links them together.
 
The teahouse was something "out of place" hiding between Agnes Lake and back forest. A log cabin built neatly, the teahouse got enough space for  ~40 people inside and big open deck for tables and chairs outside. The store was closed when we were there, but through mesh window, we could see a few young women inside doing clean up.
 
Infested by ubiquitous mosquitoes,  we only took a brief stop before move on. Q, Atang and I decided to continue for 1.6mk to the top of the Beehive, a huge protruding rock over looking Lake Louise. Others returned back home.
 
The last leg was actually the best part of the whole trip. When we hiked around the Agnes Lake, the Sun already set below the mountain back. But pink dusk still bright up the west side of the sky.  The trail was pretty strenuous , with > 160m elevation in last 1km. But the view was worth all of it. And interestingly, at the top of the Beehive, in the middle of the scattered low pines and big boulders, there was an exquisite gazebo at the edge.
 
It was a square gazebo made of log a, with benches at each side and ground inside paved. This might be the most bizzard thing I 'd ever encounter in the wild. Another "out of place".  I even lost $10 bet to Atang for it.
 
When getting down, the constellation of stars came up from the East and a corner of new moon showed up over the glacier.  Under the mighty celestial light appeared upon purple sky,  the topics accompanied us on the road were Light Year, Big Bang and Birth of the Universe.

 

（待續）