June 12, Monday, Day 15, Hornillos - Castrojeriz: 19.5 km
Another light day – from Hornillos to Castrojeriz, only that distance, I planned this only because I would like to stay at the Albergue Orion! I heard much about it from a couple of Youtubers.
In a 10-beds room, two beds stayed vacant. We didn’t lack the snorers last night. I slept ok. Some roommates rose early, then came all kinds of morning symphony – the sounds of packing, zipper on, zipper off, the sounds of plastics, a water bottle dropped, the door to the room open and close, and door to the bathroom slamming, people whispering… I finally couldn’t bear all these any more, so I sat up, and started to pack my bedding with my eyes closed, wishing for a couple more minutes of sleep. Never mind, I might as well get up and see the sunrise!
Some locals must have painted the rocks and left them there for the pilgrims along the Way. How thoughtful! It has been a tradition to bring a rock/rocks from home to walk the Camino Frances, the way I understood it. Here the rocks represent burdens, challenges and confusions people have been experiencing over time. By setting down the rock(s), one lays down the burdens, worries and concerns that have been wearing him/her down, and wishes for a better future with a lighter load. The actual location of Cruz de ferro is still 230 km away from here.
Some snacks were placed there for hunger walkers. Donations were welcome.
Various types of road surfaces today for a while, and the most memorable section was a wide winding path with no end, full of poppies. They were so beautiful that I simply wanted to sing… It had been years since I sang ever so freely and happily.
At the end of the poppies path, there was the ruins of San Anton. A once glamorous cathedral from the 14th-century. What a surprise! I missed this when I did my “homework”!
The Ruins of San Anton still looked so majestic and empowering. Imagine the time when it stood there wholesome and holy!! (Image from Google Images)
There is an albergue here with 12 beds, a common dining place, all donativo based. The staff here were all volunteers.
I later read more about it online, and learned that this albergue provides no hot water, no electricity and no wifi. Here I met a retired superintendent from Maryland. This gentleman had already walked on the Camino multiple times. He would continue his walk after this round of volunteer work here.
Almost there! And the poppies along the way formed an amazing and romantic landscape. Whichever direction I looked at, I saw a fairy land, a wonderland. This was nearly unreal, an oil painting in reality! I was mesmerized, feet glued to the ground, sun basking from above, time froze here – nothing else mattered!
A place of sentiment. Got some hills in town.
I arrived at this place early, way too early. Got to explore a bit. I walked into a museum, but the front desk told me that it would close in a few minutes for a break, and that it would reopen at 4:30pm. I did get some information from the front desk. There were some highlights in town within easy walking distance – a castle ruins on top of the hill, a yoga room, etc.
La Casa de la Silencio” (The House of Silence)
I must have walked into a special space, with a total of 5-6 rooms scattered on different floors, and a intricately designed backyard. All were welcome here, but must stay silent the whole time. In this space, one could walk around, wonder, think or enjoy the experience of being there, along with meditative music, framed quotes of inspirational sayings, and many other interesting decorations. A worthwhile moment well spent.
Some of the quotes:
I thought money could bring me happiness, but God granted me poverty, and I gained wisdom.
I have prayed for many things to enjoy my life, but was given a life to enjoy many things.
I didn’t get what I have prayed for, but I received what I have dreamed of.
Stepping into the palace of wisdom begins with the realization of one’s ignorance.
https://caminodesantosh.wordpress.com/2016/05/14/day-12-the-way-finds-me/
On top of the hill in town stands a ruins, Castillo de Castrojeriz (The Castle of Castrojeriz). It can be sighted from far away. Surrounded by so many vibrant colorful poppies, it still carries the expressions of the elegance, grandeur and the mystery that once had.
The medieval architecture, once sat on top of the 900-meter mountain overlooking the city and displaying its magnificence, crumbled down to the current ruins on November 1,1755 when a 7.7 - 9.0 (in magnitude) earthquake hit Lisbon in Portugal. And the damage of it extended to many places in Spain.
https://vivecamino.com/en/castrojeriz/castillo-de-castrojeriz-3495/
https://www.sms-tsunami-warning.com/pages/tsunami-portugal-1755
Walking up the mountain under the sun in the early afternoon made me sweat. The temperature in the 80s felt like much higher on the skin. I ran out of breath as I ascended along the narrow, steep and rocky path. I saw 3 other hikers along the way, and was advised to be extra careful with my knees while on the slopes.”Of course,” I thanked them, and hiked on.
Walking in the Ruins, I could only imagine, no, I couldn’t imagine, the financial abundance and the prominence of the royals at the time, and the wisdom of the architects, the masterminds of human ingenuity! On one hand, I wondered if all royals were universally rich and powerful; on the other hand, I was curious to know what immunity could wealth and power grant people while Nature began to act in its course! Would they be granted more privilege between survival and demise?
I read about some of the purposes of constructing this grand castle on top of the mountain – for defense. Hmmm, I thought about the Great Wall right away for defense and security. Great minds with no borders, timeless…
I’d better get back to my bed and rest some. I arrived in town as early as 12:40pm today. If not for the stone bibimbap bragged repeated by some vloggers, I would have walked for a few more miles. The temptation here won me; my desire to eat a decent meal won. The hostess in the Albergue of Orion was a Korean descendant, and the food served here was in Korean style. I felt mighty fortunate to book a bed in a room for 8 for 13 euros. There were plenty of Camino souvenirs in the kitchen and dining area. So, the host and the hostess were also pilgrims. Cool!
Meal time, the bibimbap magically appeared on the table. Not stone bibimbap, but who cared? The appearance of it made me hungrier. 吃起來！Let’s eat! This was my first Asian meal since the Walk – yum, how my tummy danced a happy jig!
There was miso soup, red wine and water. Strawberry yogurt for dessert. 13 euros for the grand dinner.
We came from different places – Korea, France, America and Mainland China. Two of the fellow American walkers shared some of their experiences/stories with us.
E and J are a married couple, both retired, in their 70s. Several years ago, they both retired from their positions as judges. This is J’s 4th Camino, and E’s 3rd. They had always been so in sync wherever we saw them, checking in an albergue, strolling in towns and villages, hiking on the Way, as if their 40 or more years of marriage shaped them to a well coordinated and tacit whole being, although they were also very different and independent individuals. I marveled at their bond, their peace and love together!
We chatted as we ate. When asked why on the Camino at all, and why on it repeatedly, E responded that she wanted to do this, so that she could forget who she once had been – a somebody in others’ eyes who made it to the top, a privileged being, and so that she could be who she really was, an average person, a common folk. Hmmm – so many people try so hard all their lives to climb social ladders, to obtain privileges, and to live beyond ordinary. E thought otherwise after having “been there, done that…” What a change!!
J stated a few reasons why she wanted to walk on the Camino repeatedly –
a. For the sake of meeting new people along the Way；b. The beautiful sceneries；c. Faith and religion, because he was a Catholic；d. Fitness and health；e. Also the most important reason of all – so that he could spend more time with his darling wife. When they were home, they were both so busy that they hardly got to see each other sometimes – since they had their own friend circles, their own hobbies and interests, and at times, they worked on some (previous) job-related stuff.
Today’s actual distance: 26 km, about 16 miles.
Keyword:
Silence
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