紐芬蘭冰山記

Iceberg in Twillingate, Newfoundland, June 26, 2016

Iceberg is my favorite in Newfoundland. The region is one of the best sites in the world to admire this nature's majestic art of work. Every summer, plenty of spectacular bergs arrive Newfoundland shore;  So are enormous tourists from everywhere. They flood into fishery towns alongside eastern coastline to chase charming icebergs. Newfoundland is the place to pursuit a summer to remember.  

 

Copied image: Icebergs broke apart from Greenland glaciers

Newfoundland icebergs were born in Greenland and over 10,000 years in the making. The life of an iceberg begins with the snowfall back to tens of thousands years ago, which added a layer to Greenland ice cap. It was bury below deeply over years with growing density by the weight of newer layers built atop. When enough time passed, the snow was compressed 60-70 meters down; the compacted snowflake transformed into dense ice and merged into glaciers. Greenland glaciers are on the slow yet constant movement towards the ocean; and once it reach water, the internal structure could no longer support the glaciers' weight. In summer, when temperature rises, large chunk of ices break apart from glaciers and drift into the sea, formed newborn icebergs. Research findings indicate that 20 primary major glaciers birthed 10,000 to 15,000 icebergs each year, 90% from Western Greenland.

 

Iceberg migration map

Once calved, an iceberg will usually live 2-3 years. Western Greenland current drifts icebergs clockwise alongside Greenland shore, going all the way up to northern Baffin Bay, where they make a U turn and started heading south. Labrador current takeover icebergs after Hudson strait, floating them to Newfoundland shore or further south before melt away. The average drift speed of entire migration is 0.7km per hour.

 

Most of the bergs diminished during this slow journey, and 2-3 years later about 300 icebergs will eventually reach North America Continent in spring, traveling over 2,500 miles. Once near shore, icebergs will ground on the rocky underwater bank, and their life ends there. In 2 weeks, they melt away completely.

 

Some bergs could escape sea current influence, roaming to Iceland shore or Arctic water where they could survive another 40-50 years.

 

When talking about icebergs it's unavoidable to mention Titanic.  On April 14, 1912, one of these Greenland-made icebergs sunk Titanic in a foggy night at 40 degree north latitude, the south most border that an iceberg could possibly reach. It's a tragedy caused by a lucky berg.

 

We can only see the top of an iceberg, left remaining 90% to imagination. The under water part of an iceberg is with random shapes, and it's maximum width beneath water is much larger than you can see at the surface. Besides, iceberg is made of solid ice, a lot harder than you make in your freezer. A ship hit an iceberg almost certainly means a disaster. The impact could generate hundreds of tonnes of force, strong enough to break or even tear apart any ship's hull.

 

Icebergs varies in size and weight, ranging from 60 million tonnes and hundreds of meters long to few tonnes tiny icebergs size of a piano. The average weight of an iceberg is 100k-200k tonnes. The largest icebergs on record was called B15, calved in 2000 with an area of 4,250 square miles, or size of state Connecticut.

 

When it comes to viewing icebergs, nowhere else in the world beats Newfoundland's Iceberg Alley. This is a 'L' shape coastline stretching from the St Anthony in the northern tip of Newfoundland to all the way down to Bonavista at northeast. When Labrador current carry in bergs, they have a good chance to pass by Twillingate first, given it's geographical location; The city was so called 'Iceberg Capital of the World'. Every summer from may to June, tourists from all over the world rush to Twillingate to get a closer look at the bergs. You may spot icebergs from shore but boat tour makes the viewing more interesting. My first priority of Newfoundland is an iceberg tour in Twillingate.

 

Iceberg viewing is a first time in life experience for me, while it happens in a least expected way. My first stop in Newfoundland is St. Anthony, a remote fishery town at the northern tip of the island.

I have to stay there overnight before continue my trip to Viking village, beyond that I didn't have any preconceived notions about what to expect. Before leaving locals point me to the Fishing Point where beautiful lighthouse stands. I arrived before dawn, and when I was hiking the whale watcher's trail for a better view of the ocean, first thing come into my sight was couple of giant icebergs waiting for me quietly in a small bay. It looks absolutely gorgeous!

Blocky icebergs, St. Anthony, Newfoundland, June 23, 2016

Later on I figured out that in St. Anthony I actually have a better chance over Twillingate to spot icebergs in end June due to its chilly weather. This is the type of fishery town that you won't say it's pretty, but attractive and with a rough charm. Mossy barren coastal hills with bright colored houses on top; calm blue water float white icebergs nearshore; lovely red topped lighthouse against blue sky.

Fishing Point Lighthouse, St. Anthony, Newfoundland, June 23, 2016

Fishing Point and surroundings are the best part of St. Anthony. This is the meeting place for locals and tourists alike, and I spend several hours there before I know it. On top a coastal hill I got a mesmerizing view of beautiful blue Atlantic, dotted with amazing icebergs in various shape and size. Bergs gives St. Anthony a barren yet scenic feel.

Tabular iceberg in distance, St. Anthony, Newfoundland, June 23, 2016 

After St. Anthony I couldn't wait for Twillingate. In a sunny afternoon I find myself onboard a small boat in this known 'Iceberg Capital of the World', heading north to chase the beautiful blue icebergs. There is nothing like actually seeing them closely, even you saw iceberg image numerous times before.

 

Every icebergs came in various shapes and size, but all are incredible in their own way. No two icebergs are identical. Once they grounded near shore, their shape vary every day. Popular shapes include Blocky, a flat topped iceberg with steep sides; or Tabluar, flat topped iceberg with width much greater than height; See my two photos from St. Anthony above.

 

If an iceberg with one main spiral or pyramid on it, it's a Pinnacle:

Pinnacled Icebergs, Twillingate, Newfoundland, June 26, 2016

Icebergs with U-shaped slot near water level, with minimum two columns, called Dry Dock:

Dry Dock Iceberg, Viking Village, Newfoundland, June 23, 2016

An iceberg with smooth round top is a Dome. Like this:

Dome iceberg, credit to: www. hawkebackpacking.com

Last, a flat surfaced iceberg with steep surface on one side and gradually sloping on the other called Wedged:

Wedged Iceberg, credit to: newfoundsander.wordpress.com

Crews circle the boat around icebergs while maintaining a safe distance away from it. Underwater part of icebergs is unpredictable, and ice fall is also a concern. Viewing is breathtaking.

Icebergs, Twillingate, Newfoundland, June 26, 2016

Icebergs are white colored with spectacular shades of blue or green. Technically icebergs are made of solid ices with large number of tiny air bubbles; It appears in white because when the lights hit it, air bubbles will equally reflect all wavelengths of visible light, ended up with overall white color of full sunlight; while if the light hits the ice crystal part it won't be reflected but penetrate as deep as possible or even travel through the iceberg. Compressed ice absorbs longer wavelength of colors such as red or yellow, leaving short wavelengths like blue or green penetrate all the way through. In a nutshell, air bubbles give icebergs white appearance, and ice crystal added remarkable blue or green colors. Beautiful, isn't it?

Icebergs, Twillingate, Newfoundland, June 26, 2016

剩下的在博客上, 拉點瀏覽量:  http://chinadiansalmon.blogspot.ca/2016/08/chasing-icebergs-in-newfoundland.html

所有跟帖: 

真漂亮!!! -刀爺爺- 給 刀爺爺 發送悄悄話 (0 bytes) () 08/07/2016 postreply 18:54:00

非常漂亮!多謝分享。 -看風景- 給 看風景 發送悄悄話 看風景 的博客首頁 (95 bytes) () 08/07/2016 postreply 19:03:19

冰山拍得晶瑩,美麗。原計劃五月去紐芬,後改去了西葡,爭取明春成行 -五湖以北- 給 五湖以北 發送悄悄話 五湖以北 的博客首頁 (0 bytes) () 08/07/2016 postreply 20:14:37

壯觀呀 -wdyajax- 給 wdyajax 發送悄悄話 (0 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 04:34:47

好美,阿拉斯加的冰川上麵總有一層黑黑的 -芳草無情- 給 芳草無情 發送悄悄話 (0 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 06:33:45

第一張給你調了一下光。 -borisg- 給 borisg 發送悄悄話 borisg 的博客首頁 (155 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 07:15:05

看著柔和了些。謝謝。 -Eva_CA- 給 Eva_CA 發送悄悄話 (0 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 20:05:19

六月底還可以看到啊,一般是五月底六月初,我們是去年六月初去的 -rue- 給 rue 發送悄悄話 rue 的博客首頁 (0 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 09:27:08

6月底冰山已經不多了。St. Anthony還能看見10個8個,過了Bonavista往南就看不見了。 -Eva_CA- 給 Eva_CA 發送悄悄話 (0 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 20:04:09

讚! -清漪園- 給 清漪園 發送悄悄話 (0 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 14:53:03

不錯,冰島的冰山也很好,還有海豹 -丁莊秀園- 給 丁莊秀園 發送悄悄話 丁莊秀園 的博客首頁 (0 bytes) () 08/08/2016 postreply 17:37:56

漂亮! -陳默- 給 陳默 發送悄悄話 陳默 的博客首頁 (0 bytes) () 08/10/2016 postreply 12:50:40

請版主幫忙把這個帖子搬到自駕版。紐芬蘭在加拿大 -Eva_CA- 給 Eva_CA 發送悄悄話 (0 bytes) () 08/15/2016 postreply 23:12:10

照片很好!不過紐芬蘭在加拿大,跟芬蘭沒有關係。 -平心之論- 給 平心之論 發送悄悄話 平心之論 的博客首頁 (0 bytes) () 02/03/2019 postreply 11:59:22

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