原話是這樣的：
“In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing. Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards out to sea (taking a short board with him), then face the shore and wait for a particularly prodigious billow to come along; at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by like a bombshell!”
在文革開始前一百年，著名文學大佬土溫同學參訪夏威夷期間如是說。然後，附上了一組圖示：
*_*。
據說大佬自己也訓練來著，可是時間有限，隻練到如下程度：
朋友們周三開心。
後記：細讀，吐溫大佬也有些深層的“男權”，*_*。
