蘋果的創建者喬布斯不光創業有名,成名後一席高領黑衫更被大眾追捧和模仿。
關於高領黑衫的來源,比較可信的有兩類:
1。洛杉磯時報(LA Time)引用的老喬指定的傳記作者Walter Isaacson提到:
On a trip to Japan in the early 1980s, Jobs asked Sony's chairman Akio Morita why everyone in the company's factories wore uniforms. He told Jobs that after the war, no one had any clothes, and companies like Sony had to give their workers something to wear each day. Over the years, the uniforms developed their own signatures styles, especially at companies such as Sony, and it became a way of bonding workers to the company. "I decided that I wanted that type of bonding for Apple," Jobs recalled.
Sony, with its appreciation for style, had gotten the famous designer Issey Miyake to create its uniform. It was a jacket made of rip-stop nylon with sleeves that could unzip to make it a vest. So Jobs called Issey Miyake and asked him to design a vest for Apple, Jobs recalled, "I came back with some samples and told everyone it would great if we would all wear these vests. Oh man, did I get booed off the stage. Everybody hated the idea."
In the process, however, he became friends with Miyake and would visit him regularly. He also came to like the idea of having a uniform for himself, both because of its daily convenience (the rationale he claimed) and its ability to convey a signature style. "So I asked Issey to make me some of his black turtlenecks that I liked, and he made me like a hundred of them." Jobs noticed my surprise when he told this story, so he showed them stacked up in the closet. "That's what I wear," he said. "I have enough to last for the rest of my life."
從這裏可以明顯地看到,老喬高領黑衫是受了東方(日本)創新者的影響。
2。另一種說法是比較流行的包括維基百科上的說法:Jobs usually wore a black long-sleeved mock turtleneck made by St. Croix, Levi's 501 blue jeans, and New Balance 991 sneakers。 按照這一說法,老喬慧眼獨識St.Croix的高領黑衫,把它發展成了自己個人著裝的標誌。
這兩種說法,前一種因消息來源可靠,重可信度。後一種因傳播廣泛,幾乎被大眾接受為事實。
拋開孰是孰非不談,有沒有可能老喬最初真的是從日本設計師那裏受了影響,後來發現了更舒適的St.Croix,就開始穿這一新款。但並沒有完全拋棄從Miyaki那裏得到的高領黑衫,所以兩種說法都有道理呢?
值得深思的是,主流媒體裏麵為什麽至今隻對第二種說法廣泛流傳,而對第一種說法幾乎隻字不提直到Walter Isaacson暴料呢?還有就是這麽多年Miyaki為什麽對此一直保持沉默呢?
是西方主流媒體對東方文化滲透的在有意封殺,還是西方主流媒體缺乏追根究底堅持真理的細致呢?個人覺得更合理的可能是西方新聞界工作人員對東方文化的不敏感。
像老喬這樣幾乎被神話了的人物,當西方人報道他時,是說他穿St. Croix 這種帶著貴族印記的衣服更合適他們對老喬的想象呢?還是把他跟日本設計師聯係在一起更讓他們覺得自然。這裏,如果說西方主流媒體對東方文化滲透的在有意封殺,顯然捕風捉影,偏激不合理。更多情況下,人們有思維的慣性。在老喬高領黑衫這件事上,更多的可能是人們思維的慣性和對世界尤其是東方文化缺乏熟悉理解導致了今天這個局麵。
這讓我聯想到美國著名建築師Frank Loyd Wright (FLW). FLW 的創意及對建築史的影響是巨大的。東方文化對FLW的影響非常明顯。比如說FLW在芝加哥的工作設計室是八角形的,全木質結構。並用木質長廊把起居室和工作室連接起來。對於我們東方人來說,東方建築的影響一目了然。可翻遍介紹FLW的文章,沒有人提到過東方建築對他的影響。是故意封殺,不方便說,不好意思說,還是思維進了一個習慣性的框框。看不到我們這些東方人看來很明顯的事實。FLW的年代要比老喬遠些。那時候全球化才剛剛開始。所以說以上所列的原因都有一點兒也不足為奇。
St. Croix現在正以正統自居,在拍賣高領黑衫呢。St.Croix的高領黑衫我不會去買,有機會也許會弄件三宅一生的高領黑衫穿穿,並告訴每個問我的人,這才是正宗呢:)
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