行程:
Melbourne - Ballarat - Linton - Lake Bolac - Hamilton - Dartmoor - Mt Gambier - Beachport - Robe - Kingston SE - Tailem Bend - Murray Bridge - Adelaide - Victor Harbor - Goolwa - Hindmarsh Island - Murray Bridge - Keith - Bordertown - Nhill - Horsham - Ararat - (Ballarat) - Melbourne
(點小圖看大圖)
老規矩,一輛車,八點半出門,走老路,Western Hwy 轉 Glenelg Hwy,在 Ballarat 城南停了一下買了點新鮮麵包,午飯時間到達 Hamilton,途經 Grampians 南端(Dunkeld)時遇上了像霧一樣的毛毛雨。
出 Hamilton 後沒走老路而是上了C187,奔向 Dartmoor。老路是指三年多前去南澳 Mt Gambier 時走的B160(經 Casterton)。
(8164) Dartmoor 並不在A1路邊,進這個小地方是因為要方便一下,倒是值得。路邊的一排樹變成了木雕:
![](http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/46281/2487877040101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8165)
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/44756/2081498350101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8173)街對麵綠地裏的老樹變得更美
![](http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/32207/2023539380101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7631)
![](http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/45466/2703577130101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8174) 一進 Mt Gambier,順路就停在了 Umpherston Sinkhole,平地上的一個大坑,被先人改成了花園:
![](http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/37632/2147563600101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8183)
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/46088/2405886020101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8196)地坑邊上是木材加工廠,從 google 地圖上看,廠區裏還有個地坑,在廠外就看看古董卡車吧:
![](http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/10639/2515981810101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8198)Mt Gambier 著名的是藍湖(Blue Lake),不過那湖水並不是一年四季都是藍色。這不,冬天的藍湖:
![](http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/3130/2731911140101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(0491) 這是三年多前去時拍的秋天的藍湖:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/3934/2696089240101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8213) 藍湖的鄰居是綠湖(Green Lake),不過這時也不綠了:
![](http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/45671/2284427110101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(0503) 三年多前去時拍的秋天的綠湖:
![](http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/46329/2480602350101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8215) 在 Mt Gambier 住了一夜,第二天出發看到這個:
![](http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/46602/2698491950101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8227) 北上的路上遇到 Tantanoola Caves,山洞還沒開門,隻好沿著邊上的小道走走,向東看:
![](http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/36450/2946416790101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8228) 向西看,這裏像個開了口子的大盆:
![](http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/42498/2571713370101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7682) 到了 Beachport,不是季節,打漁抓蝦的漁船都在岸上休息:
![](http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/26093/2175112320101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8230) 重訪 Beachport 的石灰岩海岸:
![](http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/47458/2602750540101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8233)
![](http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/21800/2044137360101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8238) 這個洞,站在下麵正好可以把腦袋鑽過去,留了不少地上鑽出一個腦袋的片片,那些是不能貼的:
![](http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/45305/2881775830101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8252) 中午時分到達 Robe,第二個過夜之處,從後門進了旅館房間,從前門望出去就是這景:
![](http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/44342/2337293890101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8253) 旅館房間的前門:
![](http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/47542/2923921100101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7747) 這旅館的好處是房間裏有廚房,是此行中性價比最好的一處:
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/45192/2209546150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7765) 午飯後在 Robe 周圍轉轉,沙灘上有不少海帶之類的幹海貨,所以看上去不那麽好看:
![](http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/46457/2075485470101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7767) 但看不到“雜物”的地方很養眼:
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/47901/2794844670101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8257) 這裏還是石灰岩海岸,懸崖看上去隨時會掉下一塊:
![](http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/45304/2563777560101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8258) 這一塊給海水修理得像個鱷魚:
![](http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/45778/2634702070101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8262) Robe 的廣告照:
![](http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/46815/2566525610101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8264) 通往這海灘的路沒有通常的禁止牌,可以開車上去:
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/17220/2768074700101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8265)
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/47774/2680777040101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8263) 咱受惑也開車上去了,不想此地不像上次 Sandy Point 的海灘,沙子又粗又幹,轉彎時車子不動了,到底是 2WD,趕緊借人力倒車,然後低檔撤退,好在沒盲目加油門,不然這坑可就大了:
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/44102/2077408190101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8271) 第三天接著北上,路過 Kingston SE,是不是怕和別的 Kingston 搞混了所以加了個 SE(東南)?這裏號稱龍蝦的首都(Mt Gambier 南邊的 Port Macdonnell 也號稱是龍蝦之都),但冬天不對季,此地一片靜悄悄:
![](http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/44657/2964423390101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8277) 見不著真的就看看人造的吧,特大號的:
![](http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/47794/2336599660101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8280) 離開 Kingston SE,一路沿著和澳州第一大河 Murray 河相通的 Lake Alexandrina 的南段走,此湖水和海水之間隻隔一道沙丘, 是 Pelican (鵜鶘)的天堂,咱就停車按路標去看 Pelican:
![](http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/44171/2263182050101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8284) 遠處那小綠棚就是藏人的地方:
![](http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/12159/2056932430101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7831) 鵜鶘都在遠遠的沙島上休息:
![](http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/9931/2271814000101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7871) 忽然間,一撥一撥的鵜鶘先後起飛,他們在咱們的頭頂上空盤旋,像是在編隊,也像是在尋找合適的氣流,等上升到了一定高度,他們或成人字,或成斜一字向北飛去:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/44756/2565137770101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7872)
![](http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/44386/2754227340101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7878)
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/44254/2791872390101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7879)
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/47453/2781027960101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8287) 這是停車處的一塊“石頭”,看似混在沙中用手一扒拉就出來的貝殼,已經和沙結合在一起變成了一體:
![](http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/44240/2345659810101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8289) Tailem Bend,是 Murray 河拐了一個九十度彎的地方,原以為有什麽名堂的,結果不其然。到河邊去看看,那河岸被鐵柵欄攔住了,說是河岸有坍塌之險。滑稽的是,河邊公園裏有一個標著陸克文的 Nation Building - Economic Stimulus Plan 的廁所。這是從鐵柵欄縫隙之中拍的 Murray 河 Jervois 渡口,南澳這一帶的渡口都是免費的:
![](http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/45431/2580734230101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8291) 在 Tailem Bend 沒找著午飯,隻好到下一站 Murray Bridge,因橋而得名的城。城裏河邊的公園還不錯:
![](http://inlinethumb41.webshots.com/45928/2291334650101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8292) 橫著再來一張:
![](http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/41641/2453778550101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8293) 發大水時這水位可夠高的,這整個河邊公園都會在水底了:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/36830/2667576010101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8296) 淡季,這遊船歇著呢:
![](http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/47519/2511062310101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8298) 給這個城名字的橋,兩座,大點的是鐵路橋:
![](http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/44429/2582457220101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8300) 過了 Murray Bridge,freeway 翻山到 Adelaide, 從城南的 Cross Rd 直抵海邊的 Glenelg, 著名的 Glenelg Tram:
![](http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/45292/2965003660101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8304) Glenelg Jetty Rd 海邊:
![](http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/46070/2991923260101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8305)
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/18246/2764498150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8306)
![](http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/44783/2449267160101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8308)
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/44484/2189042110101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8312) 電車的 Glenelg 終點站:
![](http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/47359/2535054290101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8315) 咱們住的 Seawall Apartemnts,右邊樓下的那一套:
![](http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/45656/2165177460101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7910) 訂的是兩臥室的,check-in 時給升級為三臥室的了,不過多的一個臥室根本用不上,這是主臥室:
![](http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/19564/2877235220101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8318) 二號臥室:
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/44744/2635818150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8320) 主廳,二號臥室和大門之間還有一個廳:
![](http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/44280/2475500330101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7912) 從二號臥室能看到門外的海:
![](http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/21655/2307088610101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7913) 廚房:
![](http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/3584/2289304470101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7914) 主人弄了個海景園,大門是鯊魚的大口:
![](http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/46556/2039704200101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7916) 另一個角度看住的房子——小船上牆:
![](http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/45521/2708717750101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8324) 第四天, 從 Glenelg 沿海邊一直開到 Port Adelaide,這海景房還真不少,天然條件優越。這是個被搬了家的燈塔:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/45268/2844180580101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8329) 能升起的橋(?):
![](http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/32698/2515742040101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8330) 這水泥廠讓咱遠遠地一猜一個準:
![](http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/46578/2422051300101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8331) tug boat(水位太低,隻能看到上半部):
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/46086/2001496530101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8332) 不知名的建築:
![](http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/47328/2411358270101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8335) 從 Port Adelaide 開到 CBD。以前看介紹澳州鐵路的片子,說 Adelaide 的火車站很氣派,到跟前才記起,早就改成賭場了:
![](http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/32370/2279158230101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8336) 唐人街前一掠而過:
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/46982/2337042360101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8338) 從 Mt Lofty 山頂看 Adelaide 城區:
![](http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/44292/2108022220101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(7953) 中午到了 Hahndorf,東郊 Adelaide Hills 的德國城, 進了 Hahndorf Inn Hotel 的餐館:
![](http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/26328/2137477860101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(7957) 來了份 A Taste of Germany Platter,四根灌腸(Bockwurst, Weisswurst, Cheese Kransky and Vienna),一塊大排(Pork Kassler Chop),一個豬蹄(Pork Knuckles),外加土豆,兩個 pretzel:
![](http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/37522/2293003700101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8342) 飯後逛街,這是商店櫥窗:
![](http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/46809/2019118440101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8343) 老店:
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/46324/2344356100101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8346) 這是剛才吃飯的地方:
![](http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/46486/2653993330101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8348) 回城途中,下了 freeway 去看看不鑽山洞的老一號公路,一段路開下來,隻見到兩輛車,這 Eagle on the Hill 也是一片一片靜悄悄:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/45158/2260516880101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8349) 回到 CBD,這回下來走了走:
![](http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/14373/2729978110101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8357)
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/47924/2181835770101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8358) 新一點的電車:
![](http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/44216/2885665530101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8035) 第五天,離開了 Adelaide,去南邊號稱南澳的後院的 Victor Harbor。還是沿著海邊走,走著走著,一路都沒有指向 Victor Harbor 或 McLaren Vale 的路標,咱可不想去袋鼠島,看到一條大點的路就左轉了,正巧,這路直通 McLaren Vale,南澳的一個酒都。穿城而過,回頭上了去 Victor Harbor 的路。Victor Harbor 所在的這個半島是花崗岩,一個長長了棧橋通向海中的一個小島:
![](http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/2643/2438859650101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8036) 棧橋上有鐵軌,鐵軌上跑馬拉的“電車”(tram):
![](http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/45709/2669916570101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8043) 這小島幹脆就叫花崗岩島:
![](http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/46491/2091379160101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8376) 小心,給小企鵝讓道,不過白天沒有小企鵝:
![](http://inlinethumb56.webshots.com/46135/2532015740101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8049) 比起華山來還是小巫:
![](http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/41303/2772330140101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8053) 這有點人工堆起來的感覺,特別是邊上不遠就是防波堤:
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/45172/2761232010101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8379) 海水和花崗岩衝撞做成了牛奶:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/46310/2292540940101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8386) 從上向下看那條防波堤:
![](http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/813/2692471590101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8396) 天然石雕,像什麽:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/34918/2029533960101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8395) 拉近:
![](http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/10387/2044741560101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8112) 想必是放生的鵪鶉:
![](http://inlinethumb39.webshots.com/47270/2611723930101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8402) 遠看那棧橋:
![](http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/25316/2221532430101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8403) 棧橋上馬拉的 tram:
![](http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/47780/2440100800101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8407) 另一個角度看棧橋:
![](http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/46365/2489305830101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8135) 覺得這馬挺可憐的,墨爾本城裏的馬車是兩到三匹馬拉的,這裏卻是一匹馬拉比馬車大而重的 tram:
![](http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/33013/2061741250101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8415) 下一站是 Port Elliot,這一帶海邊都是別墅度假房,小城之間的界限並不明顯,反正路邊都有房子。Port Elliot 海邊有個岬角,有不少人在那用望遠鏡向海裏看,咱也拿出望遠鏡來看,沒看出什麽名堂,鯨魚?倒是左手邊這個小海灣挺美的,夏天一定是個遊泳的好去處:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/44692/2343752360101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8417) 再下一站是 Hindmarsh 島,一口氣開到島東南角, Murray 河的入海口就在此地:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/41374/2288197680101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8425) 去年複活節到澳州的屋頂的時候,在 Murray 河的源頭附近走過,這回到了入海口,算是走遍了的澳州第一大河。不過這入海口一點也不壯觀,水量太小,入海口隻是沙壩上靠人工維持的一個缺口,和維州的 Lake Entrance 那裏類似,遠遠望去,隻能是通過缺口看見外海的浪花,缺口右側沙灘及附近的淺水裏還有一群海豹(照片上的小黑點):
![](http://inlinethumb16.webshots.com/32271/2817855900101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8150) 渺無人煙(左邊有條挖沙船不在鏡頭裏):
![](http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/15237/2464141800101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8426) 沙灘上有不少這種像是植物纖維纏成的圓球,不知道是什麽東西:
![](http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/47636/2118950810101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8428) 找了個還沒分家的貝殼,立起來留個影:
![](http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/21376/2883406250101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8430) 路到盡頭:
![](http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/43861/2105014470101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8431) 從 Murray 河河口回到連接 Hindmarsh 島和 Goolwa 鎮的橋下,從這個角度看這橋,還挺優美的。別小瞧這座橋,當年報章電台上可為它熱鬧過一番,Wikipedia 裏有這個橋, Hindmarsh Island bridge controversy:
![](http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/38469/2579574580101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8435) 現在這裏一片寧靜,橋上的交通流量很小,水裏連波浪也是很小:
![](http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/44360/2745835180101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8439) 船上帶酒桶?
![](http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/46987/2397951380101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8180) 離開 Goolwa,天色漸晚,安排行程時,選擇了在 Murray Bridge 過夜而不是回 Adelaide,這樣明天回墨爾本就可少開點路,也避開了 Adelaide 早上的高峰。 到達 Balcony on Sixth 旅館時已是五點,老板到悉尼去了,讓她的老媽等著咱們。這是個城中心的老房子:
![](http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/46037/2818215670101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8181) 公共飯廳,早餐是免費的:
![](http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/44240/2295787260101957796S500x500Q85.jpg)
(8184) 住這裏衝的是他們的四柱老床,可這個房間不在有陽台的那邊,裏麵黑古隆冬的,浴室也很舊:
![](http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/44915/2421144420101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8446) 問老板娘的老媽這房間怎麽沒有招牌上的 balcony,結果她打電話去請示了一下她女兒,給換了一個連著陽台的房間,四柱床錯過了,但浴室是剛剛裝修過的,瓷磚的邊縫還沒封好,有失有得:
![](http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/47277/2134633150101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8185) 當成招牌的陽台,這是次日早晨拍的,背景是大霧:
![](http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/20691/2743531670101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8186) 隻住一夜,這陽台並沒有用上:
![](http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/29291/2299566210101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8447) 上路回家了,大霧,這一帶是平原,霧得好像更厲害,好在車少,過 Keith 之前出了霧區。 Keith 的 Land Rover on the pole:
![](http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/47766/2466207000101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8452) 原以為 Bordertown 有點什麽的,路過時特地拐進城轉了一圈,可相機一直閑著,直到維州的 Nhill 才開工。去年春天到這裏來過,一眼就發現這麵包房變了,可又想不出哪變了:
![](http://inlinethumb24.webshots.com/46487/2260562610101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(6575) 回家後翻出老照片,換主了?
![](http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/32372/2593944710101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8455) 路過 Pink Lake,這顏色淡了一下就看出來了:
![](http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/45788/2694942660101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(6566) 去年九月拍的 Pink Lake:
![](http://inlinethumb36.webshots.com/15203/2124979370101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8457) 進 Horsham,開飯!飯後,在城中的 Wimmera 河邊轉轉:
![](http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/39391/2912311520101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8458) 有水就有好景:
![](http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/43014/2321005760101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8459) 河對岸的水景房:
![](http://inlinethumb19.webshots.com/47250/2603097330101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
(8460) 回墨爾本之前停車休息的最後一站,Ararat,這個小公園是咱們每次經過 Ararat 的必停之地:
![](http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/47262/2249194880101957796S425x425Q85.jpg)
五點半多,開到了西門橋的西頭,車速一下子從100降至20以下,像蝸牛一樣爬過了西門橋,到家已是七點……
Thu Jul 22 15:41:43 EST 2010
請閱讀更多我的博客文章>>>