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簡妮真人 (熱門博主)
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瑞士的狂歡節

(2006-02-28 14:13:01) 下一個
一個初來乍到的朋友打電話給我,向我打聽我們這一帶狂歡節的化妝舞會的日程,因為在電視裏看到了報道,很想見識一下。可惜狂歡的季節已經接近尾聲,隻好約到明年了。其實這裏的狂歡節就是對成人來說,都是非常吸引人的,尤其是某些本地的人,其中有屬於專門的化妝俱樂部的成員,寂靜了一年,這個季節就是真性出動的時候,酒精、發瘋和過癮都是屬於合法的。我個人覺得這樣的節日對於沉悶保守的瑞士人來說,尤其具有特殊的意味,大可以伸展一下手腳。比如說,蓋瑞一年到頭都是很忙的,根本沒有時間關心鎮子上發生的事情,也沒有時間和年輕時的老朋友聚會。每年二月的第三個星期六晚上他會固定地參加狂歡節為成年男人組織的節目,——其實就是一夥男人去附近所有的酒吧和餐館輪流喝酒,胡亂地高談闊論,講訴一年來發生的事件等等,到淩晨五點多,才各自滿身酒氣地散去。狂歡節期間的收音機裏常常能聽到采訪成人聽眾對狂歡節的感受,大都是表現得非常熱衷,語氣興奮。當然,除了這些,也有很大成分是對傳統的懷念和繼承,還有民族的驕傲吧。

我第一次去看這樣的活動時,肚子裏懷著孩子。那是人生裏極為寂寞的一段時期。剛剛來到陌生的瑞士定居。那時侯非常不理解男人結婚了之後,為什麽還會每個星期有一兩個晚上必須出去酒吧裏喝酒到淩晨。可是我隻有蓋瑞,幾乎沒有朋友。還不認識任何華人。站在人群裏,如同看一場熱鬧的演出,散場後,在蓋瑞的陪伴下走回家。看著清冷潮濕的夜空,想起小的時候過年,大院裏的孩子們拿出積攢的壓歲錢去買焰火和鞭炮,跑到樓房外的空地裏去放;在樓梯間點燃了火柴照路;和小夥伴約了去廣場看舞龍,然後溜到人民公園翻牆進去玩。懷念故鄉和童年,心裏隱藏著寂靜的憂傷。我們的傳統沒有瑞士人的傳統保留得那麽完美,也沒有特地為孩子組織的娛樂活動,可是節日的快樂,即使是在精神和物質生活最貧苦的時候,也還能給以後的生命留下無法忘懷的痕跡。在懷念裏,我對蓋瑞說我非常盼望孩子的出生,這樣的場麵和聲音,孩子會感到新鮮和歡喜。我要讓孩子幸福地成長。那時候,還不清楚孩子會給自己帶來什麽。記得有一個星期一,獨自一個人去Marktstrasse街看兒童狂歡節,看到非常多天使般天真可愛的麵孔,色彩豔麗斑斕的服飾。快樂幸福的氣氛,會讓人覺得這裏對孩子來說充滿了天堂般的溫情。

所以,這樣美麗的拉亨的狂歡節,應該讓所有的人知道。

上個星期天是Hori Butzi星期天,下午在湖邊的健身館組織了Party,我們夫妻倆帶孩子去了。主題是西部印地安人部落的一些遊戲,比如尋寶、射箭、投斧頭和擲馬蹄。小孩們裝扮得多數是印地安人或西部牛仔的樣子,跟著玩。是要記分的,幾個項目做完,把成績單交上去,屬於競賽。彤彤去年得了第三名,今年我們估計沒戲了,居然在頒獎的時候她又獲得第三名,獎品是一塊浴巾和遊泳場的兒童免費門票。彤彤站在桌子上領獎,歡喜得很,羞澀地微笑。 

最近在網上貼出那麽多的照片,是前三個星期的一次兒童狂歡節活動的紀錄。在瑞士的這六年裏,每年都會去看熱鬧的,卻以這次拍攝的照片最多。那麽多濃鬱的色彩,鋪天蓋地的彩色碎紙片和孩子的歡樂的叫聲,在古老窄小的街道裏,一年又一年地上演,哄大了一代代的拉亨人,包括我的先生蓋瑞。可以想像,幾十年前這裏有過和這些照片上非常相似的情景,隻是人們的麵孔有所不同。我的女兒如我所料,和他的父親小時候一樣,從小就是一個不折不扣的狂歡節迷。從前都是扮成可愛的公主,今年成了戴尖帽子的小巫婆。可是小巫婆也會忘記自己的角色,和別的孩子用碎紙屑打仗;小巫婆也會聚精會神地觀看打扮成某個形象的大人表演節目;小巫婆也會去向大人扮的巫婆討麵包和糖果。不管是什麽,開心就好。身邊陪著的大人也開心。

狂歡節在拉亨是每年的一月六日拉開序幕。這天的晚上九點,空氣裏有新鮮的雪的溫度,成千上百的人裹著棉衣去鎮子中心的主要街道等候狂歡的遊行隊伍。聽到凝重喧鬧的鈴鐺在風裏震動的聲音,就是肩挑牛鈴的農夫先遣隊在緩緩地走來了。有打著大旗的領頭人,手舉火把的笑麵人。這個笑麵人的形象是本地的一個先人發明的,所以幾乎是拉亨狂歡節的招牌標誌。另外一個本地的特色形象是羅裏,有木偶戲劇裏的麵譜,慣例是手持串滿麵包圈的木棍,路過孩子麵前的時候、或者是被要麵包的孩子包圍的時候,會帶領孩子不停地原地跳,孩子口裏必須拚命地高叫“羅裏”,原則上叫得和跳得最賣勁的孩子會得到一個麵包圈。不過我們家的彤彤小時候還不會叫、也矮得會被人群淹沒的時候,也還能幸運地得到麵包圈,——那是因為扮羅裏的某個人是我們平日熟識的朋友的緣故,也或者,某些善良的羅裏常常會懂得照顧弱小的孩子,特地給年幼的孩子麵包圈。緊跟在農夫先遣隊後的是四個手舞長鞭的漢子,四米多長的鞭子在頭頂的空中不停甩動,發出炮仗一樣清脆的響聲。馬上又是各種麵目醜陋的巫婆、羅裏、牛頭鬼怪、小醜,手裏提著裝滿麵包糖果的籃子或者拿著家夥,來給寒冷的夜色裏等候的孩子分發好吃的。接著,裝扮怪異、形如獸人或者幹脆是黑白骷髏頭的樂隊,大張旗鼓地奏樂走過。還有某些童話傳說中的人物,容貌比較不嚇人的,比如米老鼠、唐老鴨、globi(一個鸚鵡人係列故事的主角)等等,隻是印象裏從來沒有公主王子之類的那種特別美麗的角色。不過在夜色裏的路燈下,這長長的狂歡遊行充滿了童話的誘惑。彤彤每年那個晚上都要去等在街邊的。兩歲的時候是在我懷裏抱著看熱鬧。三歲四歲時主動開始要求我給她裝扮成公主,那樣更有參與的感覺,快樂也就更多。

接下來的兩個月時間,有固定的狂歡節活動日程表。印刷出的廣告冊分發到每家每戶。我每次都保存下來,有選擇地帶孩子去參加。參加的時候也不再象懷孕時那樣僅僅抱著旁觀者的心情。孩子的到來改變了我的生活角色和習慣,甚至作為一個女人的心理。隨著她的成長,我積極和被動地融入了瑞士人的世界。狂歡節期間,作為媽媽,身不由己會被卷入那種文化和喧鬧的氛圍,街道上的熟人也比幾年前多了很多。有時心血來潮,也打扮一番,和女兒一起上陣,權當好玩。一切變得很自然。

有時候,在散去人群的街道上站著,看狂歡的殘局,覺得這些是現代生活裏唯一保留得比較徹底和天真的童話。是冬天裏上演的一場戲劇,那種華美和喧嘩帶來的短暫的驚豔和縱情,著實讓人沉醉。

有誰知道呢,也許人生一世,就是為了到這世間來狂歡一次。那些眾多的經曆,就是苦澀或者甜美的各種美酒,嚐過了,然後告別。
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tran 回複 悄悄話 post that picture you took yesterday then, so we can all enjoy the snow.Thanks
簡妮真人 回複 悄悄話 nice to know that now you are here in switzerland. I am sure the peace of this land will strike you,too, if you begin to live here...:-)
but it is a beautiful country, you just need to find your way for your life here. I enjoy it.
these days we just have had a lot of snow, have never seen so high snow before in my life. but the sky is sometimes very blue and sunny, I made a picture of it yesterday, so fresh and lovely.
just_4_fun 回複 悄悄話 I must say what you have done to make life pleasant shows you are positive. Guess what? Recently I fell in love with swimming in the ocean. Almost every weekend my hubby and I take our daughter to swim in the beach near our house. We choose to go there in Sunset so the Sun won't do too much damage on our skin. Last Saturday we swam in the sea a few hours before storm and that was so much fun. The waves were big and the sea was loud. We took our surf board and swimming noodle with us so we can easily drift on the waves. It was really nice to be so close to the nature. You've gotta to do it when Summer comes!
簡妮真人 回複 悄悄話 if it is possible, I wish all the life stories would just be ended with a happy end.
But in a lot of cases, the reality is out of control, different from any movies or any novels. it is not because we are chinese and pessimastic. some people suffer a lot to wait till the result comes out, long and suppressed, this experience is carved in their life. --it is a glass of bitter wein. you can easily forget a glass of fine wein, but not the very bitter one. yet, it is not sure that this kind of experience is not precious. it is a kind of romance as well.I think I am quite such a typical person out of what you have mentioned as "pessimistic nation".
but I try to have a good life, to enjoy.....I find it is quite effective to find other commitments to make oneself busy to enjoy the life and reduce the feeling of depressure, to be involved in the events around, to have more friends, these are all helpful.
just_4_fun 回複 悄悄話 I agree. Life is what you make it, so make it fun!

The other day I read a news on Wenxuecity, in which it says that from a foreigner's observation Chinese in general are a pessimistic nation. He gave an example most Chinese would naturally accept and love a tragic ending in movies or TV series. It seemed to him that a great movie of a beautiful love story commonly ended in a sad loss rather than a happy unity.He reckons the reason Chinese are not romantic and optimistic enough compare to Westerners is to blame the past dark Chinese history. Life of Chinese in old days were way too sad and pressured. And that automatically generated the practical and money oriented modern Chinese nowadays. Let's firstly hold our urge to argue his point of view, just think about if he made certain sense. I think he did.

I've got a conservative and good educated girlfriend who has been a single mom for more than 10 years. Only recently she thinks she is ready for a realtionship. She went to a date with a Aussie manager from Canberra. Afterwards she started to worry distance is going to be a problem as she lives in Sydney. It quickly got to the point that she wants to quit it. I tried to reason to her that it's not necessary to be so practical. If two people fall in love they'll make efforts to be together. After all Canberra is only 4 hours drive away. And it shouldn't be too hard for him a experienced manager to find a job in Sydney and then move in with her. She listened to me thank God. Things seem to start to fall in line for her. I am so happy for her.

Wish everyone a good life! Life is too short.... You can't really waste a single day, can you?
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