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Trolltunga, Hardangerfjord, Norway, September 16, 2016 |
Norway is for picky travelers who only want to see world's best. When talking about this country, first group of words entering into people's mind typically are things like majestic fjord, trolls, vikings, tunnels, car ferries, waterfalls, salmon, glaciers, oil, snow, pricey, stave churches, skiing, northern light, mountains, lakes... and so on. Pulling them together you likely will portrait a Nordic land with wild, spectacular, scenic and untouched nature, rich in history, and surrounded by productive sea water. Experienced tourists may understand that such place will enable you taste the full pleasure of travelling, from what you see, eat, stay to various activities available to experience Norway's natural beauty. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that, good stuff costs. And that's exactly what Norway is all about.
Although Norway as a kingdom was first formed in AD 890, the human habitation in this land can be traced back to 9,000 years ago. Native Norwegian are pure blood Germanic, classified as North Germanic, or so called Old Norse. Today, it also broadly refers to Scandinavian locals across all Nordic regions. Norwegians are tall and slim Caucasians, very blond, with pale skin, small and fairly good looking face. They populated in Alta region around 9,300 BC, hunting, fishing and gathering. Archaeological findings suggest that till AD 500, Norwegians had went through stone age and entered late iron age. Village, community and trading emerged, religious items, rune stone and ships were popular items of daily life. Following that was the first major transition in the history of Norway, the Viking Age arrived.
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Viking's voyage route, credit to: www.bitsofnews.com |
The rise of vikings marked the golden age of Scandinavian in European history, and also the first wave of attackers hit the central Europe. From 8th to 11th century, vikings shock the world by violent raids. Late on 8th wooden viking ships, long, black, single mast, tall curved prows on both sides, started appearing in the bays along European coast line. As soon as the ship stopped, tall blond men jump out; they attack churches or sleeping villages, killed males, captured youth and women, and collect all valuable items for as much as their ship can carry. Then sailed away quickly.
Meantime Vikings are outstanding sailors and played a pivotal role in European waterway trading development. In early days vikings' voyage is basically raids; that worriers rob the Christian church and ruin the villages in mainland European countries. Later on the piracy mixed with trading activities as well, or vise versa. Vikings at core are farmers, at home they farming, fishing and hunting; while in slack season they pirating or go for expedition. Vikings sailed across entire Europe including Mediterranean countries, and reached as far as Greenland or even North America.
Ship building is vikings' most proud of skills. In Oslo I saw the astonishingly well preserved Oseberg ship, built around 815-820 AD, 22 meters long, all black, good for up to 30 oarsmen. The ship is invariably symmetrical, had identical tall curved prows on both ends. This structure enable the oarsmen move the ship forward or backward without a turnaround. Ship is beautifully carved from pow to the entire stern under waterline. The Oseberg ship is found in a large burial mound, together with bodies of two females, likely royalties. In any culture a rich funeral usually associated with buried most valuable treasure for the death; For vikings, ship is their treasure, is their soul.
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Oseberg Ship, Viking Ship Museum, Oslo, Norway, September 20, 2016 |
In AD 890 Norway was united as one kingdom. Over the next 200 years Vikings gradually ceased raiding and integrated into the greater European community, perhaps attracted by a more settled life. In the years followed, Norway competed against Denmark and Sweden for the control over the waterway, as well as the power to rule the entire Scandinavia peninsula; Sometimes win, most of the times lose. It eventually went independent in 1905.
Today's Norway is a long, narrow and north-to-south country comprising almost entire western coastline of Scandinavia peninsula, with most part of heartland deeply penetrated by numerous fjords. It is a medium sized northern European country with 5 million population, oil & gas driven economy and a robust social welfare system. Norway is among the highest per capita income countries in the world and frequently topped global Human Development Index as well as multiple other indexes of life quality. Norway has managed to assemble a most rich, civilized and trusted socialist society in the world, won them global reputation on citizen's happiness.
From September 15 to 21 I traveled in Norway for a week, and the experience was incredible. I don't have the budget and time to visit all of the cool sites but only selected some to highlight the very best of this amazing land. By landscape, I believe Norway is one of the most beautiful countries in the world. Fjord is my favorite, adding to this is the historical towns, stave churches, and friendly people. This is a country I want to come back.
Norway Fjord
There are fjords and the Fjord; Norway's is the later. Norway fjords are among the most spectacular geological formations in the world, so well known that when you google word 'fjord' for image, they always occupy the first couple of rows of your searching result. Adding to this is that Norway fjords never disappoint tourists as they are more breathtaking than picture and often make many travelers say 'wow' when they actually seen them.
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Lyserfjord, Norway, Sep 17, 2016 |
Fjord is a symbol of Norway's beauty. The word 'fjord' comes from Norwegian, originally refers to long and skinny body of water. Today, it carries more meaning in daily life, also be used as a adjective. When people say fjord Norway, it means the western part of the country with magic landscapes, twisty roads, plenty of tunnels, distinctive car ferries, and delicious salmons. Same meaning as scenic, amazing, best, etc...
Norway fjords were formed during last ice age (110,000 to 13,000 BC) by glacier erosion, when ice cap covered all what were to become fjords in western Norway. Glaciers became thicker year over year as snowfall building more layers atop, and compact snows bury deep down grow in density by the weight of newer layers added each year. When enough time passed, it transformed into dense ice or even water at the bottom of glacier; gravity forces glaciers retreat slowly yet constantly towards lower places until it reach ocean, carving a U-Shaped valley of the surrounding bedrock along the moving path called fjord. See image on the right.
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How the fjords were formed |
The glaciers once covered western Scandinavia peninsula largely melt away some 10,000 years ago, left Norway hundreds of tremendously beautiful narrow fjords, tall mountains, waterfalls, lakes, as well as lucky glaciers survived. The stunning landscape of Fjord Norway hasn't changed much since then.
Norway fjord is something you should visit once in lifetime. Indeed, you have to be there to believe it. At the center of fjord is a river shaped long and beautiful blue water, with sharp cliffs, snow covered tall mountains and thin waterfalls on both sides. Its snow top lasts through out the year. Like this:
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Hardangerfjord, Norway, September 16, 2016 |
Along the sides, inner and outer ends of fjords are small villages, surrounded by colorful wooden houses, flock of sheep, grassland and neat fruit trees.
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Lyserfjord, Norway, Sep 17, 2016 |
Or at the shelter bay where soil is fertile for farming.
Fjord mountains often rise steeply from the water and can reach as high as 1,500 m. Main body of fjord is cold grey rocks, cut deeply into sharp cliffs by glacier movement. Cliff faces are normally tree covered at bottom and bare after treeline (500m-1,000m) to all the way up. Fjord tops are flat plateaus or low hills, rocky, snow covered, windy, and with a tundra landscape. In a word, a typical fjord consists water at the bottom, with flat top cliff surrounded; tree at lower cliff face, and bare rock at higher cliff; fjord top were covered by a layer of cold resistant grass, and on top of that, a layer of snow and ice. See below.
There are various activities available to experience a fjord from driving, cruising, hiking, kayaking to even wingsuit jumping; and I choose hiking and driving, as fjords are generally out of reach of major public transportation, plus they looks more amazing from atop. Norway fjords are all likeable, and so you don't have to visit plenty of them but selected few. From Sep 15 to Sep 19, 2016 I drove a round trip from Oslo to Bergen, went through Hardangerfjord, Lyserfjord and Sognefjord; and hiked three iconic fjord attractions: Trolltunga, Pulpit Rock and Kjerag. It's absolutely amazing!
Hike Trolltunga
Trolltunga is a rock on a sharp cliff close to Hardanger fjord, 700 meters above the lake underneath. Shape of rock looks like a long tongue put out into the air, so people call it Trolltunga, the Norwegian for Troll's tongue. It is one of the most spectacular, scenic and well known cliffs in the world, popular pick by journalists to advertise Norway's extreme beauty. Its magical view stunned tourist worldwide every year. Hiking is the only way to reach the rock.
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Trolltunga, Hardangerfjord, Norway, September 16, 2016 |
Hiking Trolltunga can be one of your life highlights. This is the most epic hike in Europe, long and tough, 22 km one day round trip with 900 meters elevation, taking 10-12 hours to complete. Trail is muddy, rocky, and available only in summer, when the snow covering the road melt away. You have to be physically in good shape and well prepared to hike Trolltunga, since the trail is in wild and no cellphone coverage, electricity or medical support along the route. First you got to be strong enough to come back before dark; it's a bad idea to lost yourself in a remote and chilly mountain at night. Apart from that daylight is short in Norway, and weather is very volatile. Also you need to be well equipped, and careful when up the steep cliff side. Once anything gone wrong, the only way getting out is to turn around and walk back. Search and rescue effort take place every year for hikers in serious trouble. Most recent death happens in 2015, when an Australian young lady fell off the cliff. Once you get start, your life will be in god's hands.
The trail starts at a tiny village called Skjeggedal, 17 km out of the nearest town Odda. A thin and twisty road lead me to the half way of hill; and at the end of a large parking lot is the trek entrance. In the sunny morning on Sep 16, 2016 I found myself standing in front of a plain dirt road, together with several young tourists (Seriously, matured hikers are rare. Trek is challenging. ) from every corner of the world, and reading a small plate that says, starting point, 11km to Trolltunga.
That 11 kilometers is a lot harder than just length. You have to up rocky muddy cliff face, across slippery slopes, hike along cliff edges, and walk through water/glaciers. Trolltunga is waiting for you at the very end. Timeline is sharp, so I started right away without further delay.
First two kilometers is not much to see but up the sharp mountain edge. Road is steep, muddy, full of big stones and trees, and you can find ropes to help you keep balance when climb the large stones, thick of my wrist. There are signposts to mark every kilometer you conquered:
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km signpost in Trolltunge, Hardangerfjord, Norway, Sep 16, 2016 |
The muddy steep road ends at km 3, and hikers are now close to the top of the hill. Upper body of fjord mountain looks like a hilly plateau with enormous slick rock face.
The green color on the rock comes from thick moss.
There is no facility along the trail, but beyond the rope I mentioned above sometimes you can find board lashed over the mud.
There is no road sign along the path, and the only thing pointing the way is the pile rocks and a red painted letter 'T'.
On km 3 there is a flat valley, grass covered, with short trees and ponds. Fall color looks beautiful.
Looking back upon village, the distant snowy mountain formed a fantastic view.
I am not alone, but path is definitely not crowded.
Road is muddy, stony and slippery, likely due to recent rains. Bad idea to wear my Addidas running shoes for a trek like this. I done my research, but somehow still decide not to wear hiking booth. Consequently I have to pay a lot of extra attention to watch my steps.
Snow mountains alongside the entire trail.
On km 6 water view appeared, and every one cheers. It's lake Ringedalsvatnet, formed when glacier melting water trapped by mountain valley. Looks absolutely gorgeous!
Fun part of the trek begins. Rest of the hike was all along the cliff edge of lake Ringedalsvatnet. For several moments on the trek I hold my breath, view is absolutely amazing!
Winter approaching, while final bloom of wild flower looks still charming:
Fjords are still covered by snow and ices. Actually the snow-top never melt away completely all year round.
Every winter Norway fjords were topped by thick snow and ice cap, which keep melting away during entire summer and fall, watered streams and fed seasonal waterfalls. Snow coverage diminishes to its lowest level in September, time when I hike the trail. While I still see thin creeks along the way from glacier meltdowns, water is crystal clear.
Creeks like below supplied all hikers drinkable water. It's not recommended to carry too much water to hike Trolltunga given its toughness and time duration, as such you'd better to keep your backpack light. It's encouraged to fill your bottle in the creeks along the route, since glacier melting water here is pure enough for safe drinking. I tried it, very fresh.
Basically fjord top towards Trolltunga is chilly, windy, treeless, with a tundra landscape.
Sign of km 9 arouse hope of exhausted hikers. People paused here, drinking, eating, and getting ready for the final effort.
Glaciers, snows and pools by ice meltdowns on the road side.
Almost there...
BING! At the end of the route Trolltunga appeared, surrounded by exciting and camera hunger hikers.
People lined up for photos. It took me half an hour to get my turn, while in summer the waiting time could be as long as 3 hours. People jumping, yelling, and making various poses for a thrilling picture.
Around 70 people reached Trolltunga that day. It is said that 40,000 tourists visited here in 2016.
Standing at the tip of Trolltunga I was feeling incredible. Calm and tremendously beautiful blue water underneath my feet, scenic cliffs surrounded, and snowy mountains lining the background together formed a magic and dreamy view. I have seen many awesome landscapes before, but nothing quite like this. Perhaps sense of achievement added to the experience, too. For a moment there I feel time was frozen, world looks so vibrant, and the tough hiking was absolutely payoff :)
I assure you, that the breathtaking sight at Trolltunga is much better than picture. There are picture perfect place which looks amazing on every photo you shot randomly; and place that you have to think carefully on how to make it looks perfect on picture before press the button. Trolltunga is the first. Don't know why in the image that dramatic landscape looks smoky and blurry. Seems no words nor pictures can describe Trolltunga's extreme beauty.
Trolltunga is where hikers break for lunch. It's very windy and chilly, even dressed in layers I felt cold soon after stopped moving.
I break at Trolltunga for an hour and turn around.
Back trip is much easier and so I decent very slowly to save energy. Another tough hike waiting for me next day:)
Time is early, while cloud started gathering. Sunshine penetrated through the seams of clouds.
My last picture freezes on the thick snow cap of the distant mountain.
After this picture the weather turned quickly from cloudy to rainy. Water drop blur my lens, and so I didn't camera anything thereafter. I speed up my descending, and back to the parking lot around 4pm. Luckily my running shoes didn't break this great experience in the end.
In 20 minutes I rushed into a grocery store and loaded my trunk with food; and in 30 minutes I was on the highway heading next destination. Another 40 minutes passed, I was completely driving in the dark. Evening arrived.
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