Cayenne 957 4.8l V8 Thermostat and Water Pump DIY
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12-28-2014, 12:18 AM
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
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Cayenne 957 4.8l V8 Thermostat and Water Pump DIY
Disclaimer: This isn't a full step-by-step DIY with pictures of each step because I was pressed for time during this installation. However, I don't think there is a better DIY out there yet, so go ahead and give this a read if you're going to attempt to do this job. I will be happy to answer any questions you have about it to make up for the lack of pictures here.
957 V8 Thermostat and Water Pump Replacement
This weekend I performed the thermostat and water pump replacement on my 957 Turbo S. The procedure should be almost identical on all 957 4.8l V8 Cayennes aside from the extra air piping involved with the turbo cars.
I was getting a code, P2181, which was telling me that the cooling system was not getting up to temperature in time. Also, the coolant temp and then the oil temp would drop at highway speeds in temperatures below about 60 F. I figured the thermostat was at fault. I also decided to replace the water pump and serpentine belt while I was in there for preventative maintenance. For reference, this pig has about 84k miles on it. Symptoms started occurring at around 79k, but it was warm enough that the slightly stuck open thermostat didn't matter.
There are a few "special" tools needed for this job. This picture shows all of the tools i used to do the job. Notable tools needed are:
-30 mm wrench
-Torx - T40 for water pump pulley removal
-Torx - T30 security (only needed if replacing serpentine belt)
-ETorx (inverted Torx) T?? for water pump removal NOT PICTURED
-Torx - T25 screwdriver for throttle body removal
The other tools needed are a flathead for removing hose clamps, and some pliers for removing those danged spring clamps. A spring clamp tool would be very nice to have for this job, but is not required.
*note* VIM tools makes a very nice and comprehensive set of Torx bits which you may be interested in when working on just about anything German. It is available on Amazon and I would highly recommend it. They also make a great triple square set. The bits are made in China, but the quality is on-par with the best out there based on the products I've bought from them.
Here are the parts I ordered for this job. Not all of them are essential, but I did't want to have to do the job twice and only had a limited amount of time to do it, so I went a little above and beyond. All parts were ordered from ECStuning.com. They have the best prices and were able to get everything for me promptly.
- Water pump - 94810603301
- Water pump pulley - 94810609100 (not required, but I replaced mine just because it's plastic and after another 80k miles of heat cycling, you never know what might happen to it!)
- Serpentine belt - 94810653300 (not required and not pictured, but not a bad idea to do while you're in there)
- Thermostat - 94810612501
- Coolant - 00004330149 (I only needed about half a gallon, but had extra on hand just in case)
- Special lube - 00004320593 (not really required, but again, I didn't want to have to do the job again)
- Intake socket - 94810610103 (This is the stock part number. The stock part is plastic, but an aluminum version can be found at ECSTuning.com by searching for that same part number)
The intake socket is an interesting part. I chose to order one which is made from aluminum rather than plastic like the stock part. I figured this would be good from a longevity standpoint. The aluminum version is based on the latest revision of the part from Porsche and includes the "upgraded" round o-rings. The other o-rings and lube used by Porsche in the previous design led to leak problems. The only problem with the aluminum intake socket is that you may have trouble getting it out the next time the thermostat needs to be replaced. I will go into a bit more detail on this later.
Unfortunately I don't have too many pictures of the disassembly process required to get to the water pump. It is fairly simple however once you realize that how the Y-pipe comes off. Just loosen the hose clamps on the accordion flex pipes and twist the whole y-pipe assembly clockwise.
Removal of the TB is best done with a T25 torx screwdriver. I also moved various hoses aside. I only really had to remove the upper coolant hose on the driver's side of the water pump. This can be done with minimal coolant loss if you're careful. A few small misc. hoses and b**** clips later, and you'll have a clear view of the water pump area.
Break the water pump pulley bolts (T40 torx) loose with the serpentine belt still on. Then use your 30 mm wrench with the closed end on the tensioner bolt to put slack in the belt and remove it from the water pump pulley. Now you can remove the pulley and water pump (requires inverted Torx).
At this point, you should have a clear view of the intake socket.
Removing this part is probably the most difficult aspect of this job. Unless you have or can make a special tool, you will need to use the brute force method to remove it. I found it easiest to use a flat head screwdriver with a hammer to split the socket on it's bottom half. It should break apart fairly easily with minimal fear of marring the aluminum housing. Eventually, you should be able to pull it right out.
This is what mine looked like once removed.
At this point, I realized that the aluminum intake socket might not be the best idea to install in the event that I need to replace the thermostat again, however, I didn't have a different one. I'll just have to try to acquire the special tool when that happens. Here's a picture of the aluminum intake socket.
The thermostat is right behind the intake socket and can be pulled out by hand.
**As a side note, I didn't really think the thermostat seemed so bad when I took it out, but I did notice that the temperature sensitive part of it was a bit loose inside compared to the new one. Also, the water pump I pulled seemed to be in OK shape, but it did have some play in it compared to the new one. I feel much more comfortable having a new one in there. **
When installing the new intake socket, Porsche recommends using a special lube and diluting that 50:50 with water. I found this also useful for installing the thermostat. Both the intake socket and thermostat are able to be pushed in by hand.
The rest of the installation of new parts is the reverse of the removal.
However, if you're replacing the serpentine belt (which is a good idea to do if you're around 80k miles like I was) I have a few tips. The belt routing is fairly complicated and requires disconnecting two hoses and one bracket. The hoses have those stupid quick connects on them which are extremely difficult to disconnect by hand, and the small bracket requires the removal of a T30 security torx bit.
I will post a few more pictures detailing locations of certain parts at some point... feel free to add your input here!
957 V8 Thermostat and Water Pump Replacement
This weekend I performed the thermostat and water pump replacement on my 957 Turbo S. The procedure should be almost identical on all 957 4.8l V8 Cayennes aside from the extra air piping involved with the turbo cars.
I was getting a code, P2181, which was telling me that the cooling system was not getting up to temperature in time. Also, the coolant temp and then the oil temp would drop at highway speeds in temperatures below about 60 F. I figured the thermostat was at fault. I also decided to replace the water pump and serpentine belt while I was in there for preventative maintenance. For reference, this pig has about 84k miles on it. Symptoms started occurring at around 79k, but it was warm enough that the slightly stuck open thermostat didn't matter.
There are a few "special" tools needed for this job. This picture shows all of the tools i used to do the job. Notable tools needed are:
-30 mm wrench
-Torx - T40 for water pump pulley removal
-Torx - T30 security (only needed if replacing serpentine belt)
-ETorx (inverted Torx) T?? for water pump removal NOT PICTURED
-Torx - T25 screwdriver for throttle body removal
The other tools needed are a flathead for removing hose clamps, and some pliers for removing those danged spring clamps. A spring clamp tool would be very nice to have for this job, but is not required.
*note* VIM tools makes a very nice and comprehensive set of Torx bits which you may be interested in when working on just about anything German. It is available on Amazon and I would highly recommend it. They also make a great triple square set. The bits are made in China, but the quality is on-par with the best out there based on the products I've bought from them.
Here are the parts I ordered for this job. Not all of them are essential, but I did't want to have to do the job twice and only had a limited amount of time to do it, so I went a little above and beyond. All parts were ordered from ECStuning.com. They have the best prices and were able to get everything for me promptly.
- Water pump - 94810603301
- Water pump pulley - 94810609100 (not required, but I replaced mine just because it's plastic and after another 80k miles of heat cycling, you never know what might happen to it!)
- Serpentine belt - 94810653300 (not required and not pictured, but not a bad idea to do while you're in there)
- Thermostat - 94810612501
- Coolant - 00004330149 (I only needed about half a gallon, but had extra on hand just in case)
- Special lube - 00004320593 (not really required, but again, I didn't want to have to do the job again)
- Intake socket - 94810610103 (This is the stock part number. The stock part is plastic, but an aluminum version can be found at ECSTuning.com by searching for that same part number)
The intake socket is an interesting part. I chose to order one which is made from aluminum rather than plastic like the stock part. I figured this would be good from a longevity standpoint. The aluminum version is based on the latest revision of the part from Porsche and includes the "upgraded" round o-rings. The other o-rings and lube used by Porsche in the previous design led to leak problems. The only problem with the aluminum intake socket is that you may have trouble getting it out the next time the thermostat needs to be replaced. I will go into a bit more detail on this later.
Unfortunately I don't have too many pictures of the disassembly process required to get to the water pump. It is fairly simple however once you realize that how the Y-pipe comes off. Just loosen the hose clamps on the accordion flex pipes and twist the whole y-pipe assembly clockwise.
Removal of the TB is best done with a T25 torx screwdriver. I also moved various hoses aside. I only really had to remove the upper coolant hose on the driver's side of the water pump. This can be done with minimal coolant loss if you're careful. A few small misc. hoses and b**** clips later, and you'll have a clear view of the water pump area.
Break the water pump pulley bolts (T40 torx) loose with the serpentine belt still on. Then use your 30 mm wrench with the closed end on the tensioner bolt to put slack in the belt and remove it from the water pump pulley. Now you can remove the pulley and water pump (requires inverted Torx).
At this point, you should have a clear view of the intake socket.
Removing this part is probably the most difficult aspect of this job. Unless you have or can make a special tool, you will need to use the brute force method to remove it. I found it easiest to use a flat head screwdriver with a hammer to split the socket on it's bottom half. It should break apart fairly easily with minimal fear of marring the aluminum housing. Eventually, you should be able to pull it right out.
This is what mine looked like once removed.
At this point, I realized that the aluminum intake socket might not be the best idea to install in the event that I need to replace the thermostat again, however, I didn't have a different one. I'll just have to try to acquire the special tool when that happens. Here's a picture of the aluminum intake socket.
The thermostat is right behind the intake socket and can be pulled out by hand.
**As a side note, I didn't really think the thermostat seemed so bad when I took it out, but I did notice that the temperature sensitive part of it was a bit loose inside compared to the new one. Also, the water pump I pulled seemed to be in OK shape, but it did have some play in it compared to the new one. I feel much more comfortable having a new one in there. **
When installing the new intake socket, Porsche recommends using a special lube and diluting that 50:50 with water. I found this also useful for installing the thermostat. Both the intake socket and thermostat are able to be pushed in by hand.
The rest of the installation of new parts is the reverse of the removal.
However, if you're replacing the serpentine belt (which is a good idea to do if you're around 80k miles like I was) I have a few tips. The belt routing is fairly complicated and requires disconnecting two hoses and one bracket. The hoses have those stupid quick connects on them which are extremely difficult to disconnect by hand, and the small bracket requires the removal of a T30 security torx bit.
I will post a few more pictures detailing locations of certain parts at some point... feel free to add your input here!
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