Under the Milky Way 14: From Burgos to Hornillos

June 11th, Sunday, Day 14, from Burgos to Hornillos, 20.9 km.

A very simple and short route for today. The Buen Camino App only mentioned two stops on today’s route. The first stop was 11 km away. It was a Sunday, which meant that many businesses wouldn’t open until late in the morning. Walkers, be aware!.  

By far, my footprints have covered part of the Basque country (in a small area in France and in northern Spain), and have been on some mountains, ridges and fields. Wherever my feet have taken me, I have experienced some local traditions and customs, have developed a new appreciation of a healthy outlook in life, and have learned something new daily. Is this a coincidence, or is it part of the destiny of the walk – for changes (transformation or not)? I have come to realize that I no longer felt frustrated as readily as before whatever situation I found myself in. I began to stay more calm, take time to figure out alternatives, and remain optimistic. I found myself invited into worlds of songs and poems, music and rhythms, and in a world of colors in Nature… Perhaps the world doesn’t have as many bad intentions as one has imagined. Perhaps it has always been up to the world’s participants, like me, to apply our skills in the world to make it more sophisticated, more sensible and more livable. Are we really who we think we are? Or are we more than that? (https://www.caminoguidebook.com/routes/camino-frances) 

Now I was officially in Phase II of the walk – Meseta, as described in the guidebook. Some people think of Meseta as an endless stretch of the road, flat, uneventful, and uninteresting. The rumor has it that this is a phase of the Way that challenges one’s mind/mental capacity the most – can one truly stand them all – so boring, stretching so far, under such high heat without a place to hide at times?! What’s there to look forward to? Do you have enough reason and grittiness to continue, and to finish? – One might wonder. To some, however, this phase is considered as a journey to take time for oneself for enrichment, for uninterrupted thinking and reflection. Since there are no big hills or other challenging trails most of the time, this would be a perfect space/phase to be absent-minded, or deep in thoughts occasionally without worrying about hurting knees or spraining ankles. Perfect for me!

 

The city of Burgos is located in the autonomous community of Castile & Leon. It is the provincial capital of the Province of Burgos. Signs of medieval architecture could be seen around the city. Online information reveals that the city was founded in the year 884, and it covers 42 square kilometers in size, population in 2023 – 4,750,000. 
One of this ancient city’s famed historical sites is the French Gothic Cathedral of St. Mary. Every corner of the Cathedral, and every inch of its architecture and artistic and biblical expressions here narrates a story, tells its history and civilization to us later-comers. I immersed myself in it, and in its aura, allowed every inch of me, every pore, every sinews, every cell of mine, along with my soul… to slowly sink in, to soak in it, to Ujjayi breathe in, Ujjayi breathe out… to let myself go, allow the worldly dust peel off of me, let myself die, let my soul wander…(dear Lord, why am I here? Where should I go? For whom am I doing all these?) Time stayed still and silent then and there. I allowed myself back to reality, with refreshed insights and new discoveries of ancient people from ancient times far away. Would this worldly life of mine take on a fresh vision, and start a life anew?  

I didn’t plan an extra day in the city of Burgos, I decided to spare some time this morning to hang out in the city a bit longer.

As I walked around the city, I got distracted by too many fascinating things. In times like that, I knew how helpless I could be! – I would act as if I didn’t have a walking quota for the day!

 

When reality finally hit, and when I seriously knew that I had miles to cover, I had to come to senses and move on, in spite of all the temptations along the Way… 

The milestone indicated that I had walked a bit over 300 km. A sense of pride and accomplishment took over for a second. I pat myself on the shoulder, and celebrated this little triumph. “Job well done!” I congratulated myself!

There was a flea market ahead, I swang by to take a look. A gentleman saw me walking around with pilgrim’s gear, found some shells from his collection, gave them to me, and wished me “Buen Camino”/Good Journey. I thanked him, quickly finished my “tour” of the flea market and went back to the Way.

What a creative piece of art!

It was such an odd morning. I walked for seemingly a long time, yet couldn’t find shell signs, nor arrows. I had been asking people while I walked, but couldn’t get a clear definite answer. They all seemed to assure me that the road I took was fine, and that I should simply keep walking. It was 10am, I had been walking without seeing the Camino signs! Was I lost?! Did people not understand me? Knowing Spanish at this moment would be helpful. Where was I? All of a sudden, the App didn’t seem to help, nor did the Google Map. The backpack seemed heavier as well, and the weather got hotter. I was aware that it would get to mid 80s today. The thought of the likelihood of walking an unknown amount of extra distance in such heat scared me for a second. Was I being punished for acting so capriciously at times? Rightfully so, I guess. “I certainly deserve it for being so immature,” I justified. See how I could get distracted by everything on the Way – the fascination, the interest, the craziness, the peace and willingness to explore, and to open my mind… Oh gosh, what was happening to me?? 

I continued to walk for seemingly a long, long time, blaming myself for the stupidity to take too much time for way too many things/events, etc. Perhaps it was time to learn a lesson…

When I got to the bridge, I saw a statue of a pilgrim, then asked a couple passing by. They assured me that I was officially on the Way, and pointed at a shell sign on the paved bridge! Hooray – finally I was out of the maze!!

It turned out that the first person I asked early in the morning guided me to a non-conventional path that would eventually lead me to join the traditional Way. Yet, to a road/map idiot like me, my brain power was challenged. Nothing made sense. I saw no connection between one route and another from where I was. I couldn’t get out of the unconventional path with the help of the App, either. So lost!

Morning sun shone, the dew on the roadside glistened. The roses and poppies were so delightful!
I met a couple, who were picking up something on the roadside, placing them in their plastic bag. I went up to them, and asked about it. Wow, a bagful of snails!  It was close to 12 noon, what a bumper “harvest” they had! I was curious what they could use those for, they spoke Spanish to me, and used body language to gesture something. Did they mean that they would use those for food, for skincare? I wish I knew Spanish!  

After getting lost for a while this morning, the arrows felt dear to me.

The cranes were catching my attention again – their elegance, their songs, their willingness to stay together to raise the young, and their beauty… who wouldn’t love them?! They must be smart, to have chosen a premium location for a home, so high out there, overlooking the city/town, flying freely…  

Tardajos, population in 2020, 783.

About 2 km or so later, I passed by a beautiful small village with some creative murals. Rabe de las Calzadas, population: 227.  

Sun shines for another day, 
Heals body and heart on the Way, 
It plays games with clouds in the sky,
So the universe invented seek-and-hide? 

Colorful wildflowers are blooming, 
Arrows and shells are guiding,
Weather seemed to be changing,
To you, pilgrims, are the towering clouds intimidating??  

Dark clouds are rolling over, 
The road ahead is stretching further. 
Fellow pilgrims, I wish you were near, 
To help shoo away my fear！

For the first time, I was terrified by the weather!

In the rugged mountains of the Pyrenees, I felt like a brave and fearless soul. But today, in the vastness of the Meseta, with blue skies and fluffy white clouds ahead and dark storm clouds looming behind, I began to feel lonely and afraid after stumbling upon the last person I saw today several kilometers behind me. It wasn't the rain that scared me; I was prepared for that. But I was deeply afraid of lightning and thunder nearing me. In this desolate and uninhabited place, in this land devoid of shelter, as the thick dark clouds rolled in overhead, I felt like an ill-equipped Don Quixote about to face a battle against the elements.

I imagined myself being swept away by the storm before I even had a chance to fight, becoming nothing but a casualty. I imagined crying out in the wilderness after being struck by lightning, causing grief and anguish to my family and children; I imagined my unfinished mission—placing the prepared stones at the foot of the tall Iron Cross in Cruz de Ferro, fulfilling the wishes of my loved ones; and I imagined... Then, I remembered the weary girl I had passed by a little while ago—where are you now? Are you safe? Are you afraid? Do you need a hug?...

I began to pray earnestly, pleading with the heavens for wisdom, courage, strength and life, begging to survive, to make it through this path, to overcome each obstacle, to be more victorious than Don Quixote... I dashed forward, regardless of whether my steps were steady, rushing along the rocky path...

Rain, come as you may, but lightning and thunder – please, please hold off just a little longer...

In this small mountainous land that seemed to belong only to me, birds continued to sing. One bird, especially, sang consistently along my path, flying and hopping from tree branches to boulders by my side, as if it understood my fear, worries, and loneliness. It accompanied me until the rain came, until the clouds dispersed, and until I reached the village. Perhaps my prayers were answered. And the bird was sent there for me? I was, and still am, infinitely grateful, and I will never forget...

Finally here, I have arrived!!! It was 3:15pm. The hostess was super cheerful and warm-hearted. Tonight, my bed was in a room for 10 people. I quickly settled down, showered, and washed my laundry.

Today’s distance: 26.8 km, a bodyful of mental mud/mess.

While I hung my laundry on the clothes racks, someone took out a Ukulele, sat himself down in a corner of the small backyard, and started to play the instrument and sing. The melodies were so charming, so soothing, and some sounding so familiar, that I felt joy coming my way. Louis Armstrong’s “What a Wonderful World” quickly brought many of us together even more, sitting/standing where we were and singing along, moving our bodies with the rhythms. Soon, the songs and melodies brought the little world in that backyard to life, bringing us all closer together, disregarding our differences in ages, nationalities and languages. We sang, laughed, and chatted. Later I learned that this gentleman, the singer/musician, was from France. His wife was a French composer. What a team of artists! The two of them had been walking the Camino with this luxury item of Ukulele, and had been bringing music and happiness wherever they were! While I was in that world of music, I completely forgot about the scary episode I had experienced earlier.

Moments of Ukulele after dining,
Attracting us all to a meeting.
Salad, paella and red wine,
Toasting for friendship of mankind. 

I couldn’t remember how long it had been since I sang in front of a crowd, any crowd. But today, I did. I let down all my guards, and sang with this amazing musician and singer and his wife to my heart’s content. The power of music – it could be so contagious that one could set aside awkwardness and embarrassment! Normally while packing for a Camino trip, one would only be willing to carry the absolute necessary items, and would be leaving everything else behind. Occasionally someone might bring a luxury item or two. For this musician and his wife, those items would be the Ukulele and the song book, I guess.  

Tonight’s dinner:
Homemade paella, salad, bread
Rice pudding and red wine

At the end of dinner, sound of music arose again. Great food, amazing wine and lovely happy music and songs… The earlier scare, the ultimate loneliness and helplessness, and the mental/physical exhaustion I had felt in the wilderness evaporated. They, instead, became a prelude to this experience of human bonding, a sheer joy of music, and an enlightenment of the act of letting go. What a sharp contrast of realities within a few hours’ time span! I was deeply grateful for all the acts of kindness, tolerance and TLCs from all those along the Way – the healing power had been genuine. What have I done to have stricken such good luck, and to have been offered so much…?
Could it be because my spirit and my soul, through hundreds and thousands of years of mindful training and practice, that my physical being was rewarded and repaired along the Way when in desperate needs?

Under the Milky Way, on the Camino de Santiago, my spirit and soul had been deeply touched ...

(A Google image)

Keywords:
Joy
Overcome