Under the Milky Way 12: From Tosantos to Ages

June 9th, Friday, Day 12, from Tosantos to Ages, 24 km

Image source: https://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/04/day-15-tosantos-to-ages/

Last night, one of the church bedrooms were on the third floor, with 12 people sharing it. The loudest snorers seemed to be from three walkers, my ear plugs of no help. By 4-5am, some people started to pack up for the walk. My bed was like a powerful magnet, holding me tight on the bed, I was awake, but I refused to get up. Oh, dear God, I prayed, in this house of yours, may I please, please be granted the immunity so as to stay asleep a bit longer?  6:40am, I ran downstairs for breakfast – bread, strawberry jam, crackers, coffee, milk and chilled water.

I put some euros in the donation box before I left the house, and took one more look at the sitting room. I spotted a big, red Chinese character sitting in a basket on the shelf, while feet away, the morning sunlight refracting through the stained glass panels, waking up our senses, and reminding us to get on the road … 福 for blessings. That moment, home was suddenly closer, my roots didn’t appear as far. May today be a blessed day!  

I briefly flipped through the pages of the guest book on the coffee table. My predecessors came afar for the pilgrimage – Mainland China, Taiwan, South Korea, Japan, and many other countries in Asia and Europe. The information sheets were also in a few different languages – Spanish, French, Japanese, Korean and Chinese. How I felt proud of them, venturing on a unknown land from far away. 

The online information says that the small village of Tosantos has a population of 56 in 2021. I should plan some time to see more of the village, however, the sun already rose high, and I must get on the Way. I quickly packed my belongings, said goodbye to the staff there and left. Bye, Tosantos！

 

Another milestone here. There were 544.4 km left to go. I need to plan more carefully starting tonight, I reminded myself.  

First stop – Villambistia, less than 2 km from the starting point, right by the path. This village had a population of 65 people in 2022. I got myself a stamp for the pilgrim’s passport, and moved on.

The pilgrims/walkers need to have their Camino passport and their personal passport readily accessible. One must show their personal passport to get a stamp on their Camino passport. Same rule applies for a night’s stay at an albergue/hostel. 

After walking for another 8 km or so, I arrived at the next station – Villafranca - Montes de Oca, a village with about 113 people in 2021. Time for some calories. This nice and warm meal certainly sufficed for high protein, my bones and tummy must be so contented. Yet I missed my salad, fruits…, or some kind of greens.

I sat with a lady from Jamaica during mealtime. She hurried through her lunch, and went on to take care of her feet. I saw a big blister on her foot. “OMG,” my mind screamed silently! And it was sitting right on the heel! I took out what was left of my lamb’s wool, spread it in layers over the blister, and secured it with bandage. “Hamiya, take it easy, and I wish you a quick recovery!” she then went on the Way…

In almost all walkers’ backpacks, there were some types of first-aid kits – life-savers, indeed.

 

On the road again. I happened upon a couple from England, Sara and Martin. Sara is a family doctor, and Martin, an eye doctor. In recent years, they would make an effort to spare a week every year to walk the Camino. This year, they planned to walk 123 km, from Logrono to Burgos. What happened a couple of days ago was almost theatrical – Martin left his passport in a hotel, and, after many “twists and turns”, finally got it back that day. What a start to the journey!!

Our conversations went wherever our minds took us. They shared stories with me about their daughter studying Chinese in college. During Pandemic, she took some online classes from Qing Hua University (one of the most prestigeous universities in China), and she just got back from her study abroad in Taiwan! Her current focus was about Santo Domingo’s history and present time – to write her research paper as her thesis. Did I see that the Camino spirit being passed down from generation to generation?

(From Google Images) A challenging slope ahead of me. When trees were bare during off season, this section looked like this.

 

This was what I saw. Same section, different time, a different perspective. With some challenges hidden, does it make people “feel” better？Perspectives...

With the arrows as a guide, it would be “impossible” to get lost on the Way!

This section of the road had dozens of butterflies flying this way and that, stopping in places to “smell their roses,” and to “pose for me.” They accompanied me and entertained me for miles, and slowed me down, too –  to make me smile, and to enjoy the moment. 

 

I thought I was alone in the woods, playing with the butterflies in a human-insect symphony, when I heard music breaking the silence. It turned out that several artist set up their artwork and other goods for passersby. They named this segment of the Way “Camino Oasis.” How romantic and poetic!

 

19 km later, I arrived at Ortega. I had 3.68 km left for the day. I saw Lulu and Josephin again. These two Camino friends from France had decided to stay in this town for the night. They saw me by a table outside a cafe, putting on my hiking sandals and my rain gear, came over to say “Hi,” gave me a hug and a Camino pin as a souvenir. I was quite touched, took out two packages of prized tea, and shared with them. They went into the cafe for dinner, while I continued my walk. Rain threatened to fall momentarily! 

The weather was so unpredictable! With the partially blue sky, rain or shine, make up your mind! As soon as I got my rainears on, I found myself walking under the blue sky. Just when I looked around for a place to change the rain gear, dark clouds hovered over my head. Heck, back into the backpack my rain gear went. I looked ridiculous in the rain!!  

This section of the road had stretches of loose-rock surface, with fast descending. I was walking  in the middle of the woods when the rain could hold no longer – it downpoured, I didn’t bother to take out the rain jacket again. There was no place to hide. Let the rain come, let it cleanse me, better thoroughly!!

Later in the day after I arrived at the albergue, I recalled this part of the walk. I remembered that I had passed by another lady walking at an even pace, while I tumbled along so quickly, as if I wanted to escape from getting soaked, to beat the thunder and rain!! Heavens must be mocking me, by implying, “Haha, you little thing wants to beat me? Who do you think you are?! Let me show you what/whom you are racing against??” But why was she, the walker I passed by, so calm? It didn't’ take me long to see her again in the same albergue, the same room. Our beds were right next to each other’s. She explained her calmness – a few days ago, she stepped into a deep muddy hole, much of her legs up to the calves were covered in thick mud! The rain-thunder scare today was nothing to her!!

 

I finally reached Ages. Population: 55 people. The small peaceful village made me feel as if I stepped into a resort in nature.

I strolled around the village after my daily chores. I walked into a small church at the end of a street. The church was small, dark, welcoming me as the only visitor there for the moment. I put a stamp on my pilgrim passport, walked out. A surprise finding – the cranes on top of the steeple were showing all kinds of moves and songs to “celebrate” their young family’s growth and togetherness! I sat on a bench nearby, birdwatching from a privileged distance. Two or so hours later, I brought myself back to my “home” for the day, contented.

Dinner that night was from the Pilgrims’ menu: a typical pilgrims’ combo meal – yum!

Today’s actual distance: 26.8 km. The bedroom tonight would host 7 people, co-ed. 

Keyword:
Perspective