Under the Milky Way 3: From Roncesvillas to Zubiri

5/31, Destination - Zubiri, From Roncesvalles to Zubiri; 21.3 km

Zurili一 the iconic bridge (Image source: Google Images)

From Roncesvalles to Zubiri is less than 22 km. The difficulty level today should be milder than the previous two days. There will be quite a bit of downhills, thus I got to watch out for my knees!  Two days into the Camino, I’ve learned how to identify the Camino signs – the yellow arrow, the shells, and the help from the fellow pilgrims.  There were times when I had to keep my eyes wide open looking for the signs. What I most looked forward to today would be – we would be passing by the first town, a real town. In the past two days, without the charging cable for my phone, I found that my days had fewer possibilities.  

Some albergues ask their pilgrims to check out by 8am, so that they would have enough time to prepare for the next group of guests. Majority of the pilgrims leave earlier than that anyway, to avoid hiking under the heat.  

I packed my stuff, and left the dorm. Not quite ready to leave yet. I’d better eat some breakfast in the building across the dorm before I would take off. 

It turned out that the food was rationed here. I thought it was a buffet. 

No problem. I needed the calories, high carbs for the walk anyway. I bet I wouldn’t go hungry very quickly.  Coffee and cake, in addition to fruits and orange juice, it was a perfect breakfast, indeed! 

Before I left, I joined other pilgrims in the church across the street for today’s blessings.  

Starting from here, weeks later, after walking the distance of 790km, I would arrive at my final destination. I felt a great sense of mission at the thought of it! Look at the bulky backpack – the big laundry net bag with all the damp clothes from yesterday’s non-stop pouring rain. Well, at least it wouldn’t smell bad by the time I arrive at today’s albergue.  

Today’s starting point: Roncesvillas. The online info states: this village is only 4 km away from the French-Spanish border,  with 15 square kilometers in size，and the year-long population in 2018 was 21.  

I’m grateful for a bright sunny day, good road conditions, beautiful scenery, with wild flowers here and there, and water-filling stations along the way. What more would I wish for?  One thing the walkers must be cautioned here – the road surface could be rough at times, and there were sections of the road with large rocks, stones revealing the sharp edges, and loose rocks.  Walkers, be aware!

I walked for several hours with a new friend from Mebane, Australia. The friend, C, is a young Australian lawyer. She and a friend walked part of the Camino Notre for more than a week, then she planned to walk the Camino Frances for several days. The two of us walked and talked, so fully engaged in our conversation, that we arrived at our stop for the day before we realized it. How time flew when we were having fun!  

The town of Zubiri had a population of more than 400 in 2017. 

Jennifer, a friend I met in Orrison two days ago, sat by the river bank and called me out. She suggested and C and I should soak our feet in the river water to ease off the weariness and pain, and to prevent blisters. Could that be true? C and I followed her advice. Shoes off, pants rolled up, and into the water we waded. Who cared whether or not this might  truly prevent blisters. The mighty cold water already made us forget more than half of the exhaustion we had felt a moment earlier. How soothing! I bet the happiest among all would be our hard-working feet!! For the moment, we enjoyed the water, the sunshine, silly poses and our friendship. Checking in to our albergues would have to wait. None of us kept track of time, just be there…

C and I eventually walked to my albergue/her hotel, and checked in. Before I left home, I already reserved the first 6 nights of the hostels/albergues. As soon as I walked into today’s albergue, while checking in, the hostess handed me a glass of freshly-pressed lemon water. After hours of walk, a glass of iced lemon water down brought out a great sense of contentment and gratitude. The hostess seemed slender, looked gentle, kind and sincere. I felt safe and right at home.  

That night’s shelter, for 18 euros, I stayed in a six-bunk mixed-gender room, with a shared bathroom. As soon as a laid my backpack upstairs by “my bed”, I asked the hostess to show me the location of the store where I could purchase a charging cable for my phone! Finally, the first town that might potentially have the type of stores I was looking for. She asked me to hold on, took out a plastic box, with many miscellaneous cables, and told me to find one that might help. She mentioned that some people have left stuff behind for many reasons, and indeed found one for me, including a charging block!!! I was so pleasantly surprised that I gave her a tight hug.  "Camino provides," she responded with a genuine smile. Yes, Camino provides. I heard of this before, and read about it before. I was reminded by the Camino veterans in their blogs and vlogs that, perhaps, people walking the Camino might not always get what they want, but, they could normally get what they need! That moment, I felt nothing but gratitude.  

That night’s food: salad, specially made fresh bread, vegetable soup; entry: potato served in a new way; (small) tapas:  small sausages on cheese bread; dessert: vanilla pudding with marmalade and peanut powder, homemade chocolate (the hostess’ auntie made those for us – how the treats melt in our mouths!  Unlimited beer and red/white wine. What a perfect ending to a wearisome day!!

There were 11 guests/walkers that night. Two ladies were from France. They walked from their hometown in central France, already walking over 800 km for this trip.  There was a lady from Belgium, who arrived at this albergue before any of us. She could speak five languages. That was her last day of walking, and she was to return to her job the following Monday.  There were three Koreans, who met each other on the Camino and became fast friends. One of them was a published author of three books, and a yoga coach. Later, as we sat around and chatted, she proudly and casually told us that she hiked today's entire distance wearing Bedrock sandals, with all her toes exposed! OMG!!! There was a couple from Texas, the wife was an elementary school teacher, and the husband enjoyed photography so much that he carried five different cameras with him for this Camino, one of which was a 360. After dinner, we were all interested in his camera 360, and asked him a bucket of questions. He showed us how, and we played with it. What a great time had been had!!  Another couple was an Australian husband and his young Indonesian wife. They also had much to share and many jokes to tell. We, a dozen or so strangers sitting by the table, sipping the local wine, enjoying the special food carefully prepared for us, talking and laughing without borders…… How amazing it was!!  After some rest, before bed time, came a moment of yoga led by the Korean yoga coach, stretching and relaxing. That night, I slept like a baby, the loud snores occasionally woke me up didn’t bother me as much.  

The breakfast the next day, for 6 euros, was unexpectedly plentiful! Each of us was given a bin, with our names on the tags. The hostess was not on site, but, wow, the way she organized all these, so that we all knew exactly what to do as we came down for food. Before any of us dove in, the yoga coach led a brief session of chair yoga in the backyard outdoors. How refreshing with some morning stretches and outdoor air! By the time we walked to the house, sat by the breakfast table, and found our breakfast bins, a sense of satisfaction was unsurpassed. After breakfast, we started to play with cameras and posed again and again, forgetting to leave on time!!

A vlogger from Youtube recommended this albergue. I was so glad that I ran into that video. I definitely highly recommend this place. I’d love to go back and stay there again if I have an opportunity again!

I left Roncesvalles at 7:50am, didn’t arrive at Zubiri until 3pm. Seven hours on the road, stop and go.  

Today’s extra gain：

Key word for the day: gratitude.