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瑞士印象
瑞士的山
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瑞士首都伯爾尼的富人區木裏鎮
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2001年和2002年,曾在瑞士小住,領略了這個歐洲小國的秀美風光和人文景觀。周遊過歐洲的一些國家後,私下以為,就旅遊觀光而言,瑞士無疑是最引人入勝的。
瑞士地處歐洲腹地的阿爾卑斯山高原地區,國土麵積四萬多平方公裏,人口700多萬。據說以前瑞士很窮,資源匱乏,許多瑞士男人靠為別國當雇傭兵,掙錢養家糊口,當然瑞士男子素以英勇善戰而聞名。
到了上世紀初,瑞士走了一條適應自身發展的道路,一躍躋身世界一流的高福利富國。比如,集中了許多科技人才,具有強大的科技創新能力;產業不多,但醫藥、化工、絲織品、精密儀器、奶製品聞名於世,瑞士鍾表、奶酪、雀巢咖啡等行銷全世界,據說瑞士企業列世界500強前50位的就有好幾個。瑞士奉行中立,多少年來,戰火沒有燒到瑞士,一直處於建設發展之中。瑞士的金融業保險業異常發達,全世界的許多資金流入瑞士的銀行,區區小國,能夠吸納全世界這般多的資金,自然大有可為。
瑞士的旅遊業發達成熟,既得益於“上帝”的眷顧,也在於瑞士人的管理。一眼望去,上麵是白雪皚皚的連綿雪峰,中間是墨綠色的森林、森林和淡綠色草坪相間的地帶、翠綠的草場,下麵是湛藍的眾多湖泊,大大小小的湖泊周圍,鑲嵌著一個個大城小鎮,極具瑞士風格的各種建築、民居,到處是精致的花園,如果是四月,還有一抹鮮亮的黃,那是成片的油菜花......。
聽在瑞士的資深朋友介紹,瑞士政府非常重視與旅遊相關的管理,比如,鼓勵種植牧草、油菜等利於觀賞的植物,給予可觀的補貼;有花園的居民家,必須定期修剪、養護,政府也會給予補貼,反之要處於罰款等等。瑞士的旅遊設施安全、便利、人性化。我接觸的、看到的瑞士人,普遍舉止文明、注重禮儀,外出時經常遇到有車停下來打招呼,詢問是否需要搭車。瑞士社會治安良好,2002年夏在瑞士時,曾聽朋友說伯爾尼發生一起殺人案,因為很少發生,當地警察缺乏經驗,請了奧地利警察來破案......。
木裏古樹-大橡樹
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日內瓦湖噴泉
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著名的阿爾河-來自阿爾卑斯雪山的河
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木裏鎮附近的狗登山
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瑞士古城牆
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有一點象中國的長城
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瑞士首都伯爾尼
其實,伯爾尼遠不如日內瓦的名聲大,但它是瑞士的首都。伯爾尼甚至沒有機場,我們是先到蘇黎世機場,從蘇黎世走高速公路再到伯爾尼。在瑞士的日子裏,我們住在伯爾尼郊區的木裏鎮,去的最多的城市自然就是伯爾尼。
伯爾尼遠眺
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流經伯爾尼城的阿爾河
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[
資 料]
伯爾尼(Berne)是瑞士的首都,伯爾尼州首府,位於瑞士高原中央山地,萊茵河支流阿勒河在這裏流成一個回環。聯邦政府與議會設在此處,各國大使館及一些國際機構聚集於此。伯爾尼舊城就建在河曲半島上,現已擴大到河的兩岸,有7座橋梁把兩岸舊城區與東岸新城區連接起來。伯爾尼現有人口 15萬。氣候溫和濕潤,冬暖夏涼。
伯爾尼於公元1191年建城,1848年成為瑞士首都。初建伯爾尼的時候,統治者貝爾托德公爵(Berthodv)突發奇想,決定出城去打獵用獵獲的第一隻野獸作為城名。結果他首先打到了一頭熊,從此伯爾尼的州徽、市徽皆以熊為圖案,因而伯爾尼至今仍被稱為“熊之城”。它具有中世紀風貌,舊城建築古樸,街道狹窄。高聳的塔樓、帶有走廊的商店和街心豎立的彩色石刻噴泉等都吸引著遊客。這座保護完好的古城,已被聯合國教科文組織列為世界文化遺產。
伯爾尼更多程度上隻能被稱為是一座“玲瓏的城市”,而不像其他許多國家的首都那樣氣勢輝煌、規模龐大。作為中立國的瑞士處處讓人感受到靜謐和安詳,而伯爾尼則是這種靜謐的最佳體現。精簡的結構反映出純樸的精神,溫暖的鄉村氣息中縈繞著揮之不去的貴族化的高雅韻味,可以說伯爾尼是世界上最美麗的國都,整個城市就是一件玲瓏的藝術品。經過了曆代巧匠精心製作,那些堂皇的建築物(中古式、哥德式、巴羅克式)都神妙的彼此依托,恍若一體,非其他任何地方所能企及。 伯爾尼還是瑞士傳統鍾表業的中心,許多世界名品都誕生於此,這裏是歐洲最大的具有中世紀特色的購物區。
“熊城”伯爾尼
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瑞士的城市大多依湖而建,伯爾尼沒有湖,但有藍色的阿爾河穿城而過。
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古色古香的城市,鍾樓是它的重要標誌
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伯爾尼很閑適,有時街道也成了露天酒吧
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街道中間有許多雕塑,仿佛述說著往日的故事
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伯爾尼街頭的建築
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國家劇院
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賭 場
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議 會
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銀 行
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教 堂
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河邊的花園
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阿爾河上的橋
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伯爾尼的公共交通非常發達,方便舒適
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街頭藝人
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街頭排球比賽,臨時搭起的觀眾台
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瑞士注重國防,號稱全民皆兵。路遇瑞士軍人
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伯爾尼的街道很具歐洲風格,街道兩邊的過街道,有許多精致的商店。
科學大家愛因斯坦曾在這裏生活、工作,取得了“相對論”等重要成果。
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綠色掩映的城市
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馬特洪雪峰-阿爾卑斯的象征
從伯爾尼出發,趕到策馬特鎮,已是正午時分,天氣格外晴朗,陽光很耀眼。在策馬特車站休息片刻後,沿著具有濃厚地方建築特色的小街,很快就找到纜車站,搭上了上馬特洪峰的纜車。
壓題片:馬特洪峰,海拔4478米
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策馬特火車站
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從火車站出來沿著小街,前往纜車站,沿途風景
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[
資 料]
馬特洪峰位於平原之上,附近沒有其他高山爭鋒,更突出了她簡潔的外形和閃亮的冰雪,她就是美的代名詞,神聖不可侵犯。在歐洲人的集體記憶中,馬特洪峰就是阿爾卑斯的象征。裏布法特曾如此形容潛藏在人們心底的那個關於馬特洪的夢想:“我從沒走出過家鄉普羅旺斯,但我知道馬特洪峰。讀書時,校長有次對我們說,‘現在,畫出一座山。’所有學生,不管有意還是無意,統統都畫了馬特洪峰。”她也因此吸引了數不清的攀登者,他們嚐試的過程,其中的失敗與成功足以累積成一本關於攀登曆史、文化情節、高山夢想的厚重的羊皮書。
終於見到了馬特洪峰,一片祥雲吸附在峰頂,山峰高聳,很像三角形的鷹咀
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雪峰上流淌下來的溪水
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在纜車上看山野風景
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從纜車出來到雪峰,先經過一個山洞,裏麵有許多冰雕
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登上了雪峰,從出口處走上了雪地,馬特洪峰近在眼前
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雪山風光
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觀光台上的十字架
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雪峰上的飯店
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下山途中的風景
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下山了,回到山下小鎮策馬特
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路遇婚禮
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歐洲之巔-瑞士少女峰
第一次上阿爾卑斯雪山,是有“歐洲之巔”美譽的少女峰。國內雖然曾經去過西藏,但歐洲的阿爾卑斯山還是初次。從伯爾尼來到因特拉根後不久,便到了少女峰腳下,清晨的少女峰如此壯美,令人驚豔!坐了帶齒輪的火車,又坐纜車、電梯,出了口眼前一亮,已是山巔,少女峰觸手可及。
從山腳下看少女峰
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從纜車看雪山
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[
資 料]
少女峰於2001年被列入聯合國教科文組織的世界遺產名單。
少女峰(Jungfraujoch)位於瑞士因特拉肯市正南二三十公裏處,海拔4158米,差不多是珠穆朗瑪峰的一半,是歐洲的最高峰,也是伯爾尼高地最迷人的地方。這裏終年積雪,如果天清氣朗,極目四望,景象壯麗,畢生難忘,這裏有歐洲最高的火車站可直達。少女峰登山鐵路本身就是20世紀初年一大工程奇跡。修築這條鐵路用了16年時間,而為了避免滑坡和風雪,路線有相當長的部分是在埃格峰腹地內的隧道中盤旋而上的。
現在爬山鐵路有不同的路線,遊客上下山在沿途可從不同角度瞻仰並肩聳立的奇峰峭嶺。站在一個名叫埃格格來舍(“格來舍”意為“冰川”)的山間小站上,遊客麵前就是著名的冰川。火車再從這裏開出,要鑽一個長7公裏的隧道。山間景色隨著季節變化而變化:夏日雪融,便露出覆蓋堅冰的石礫;早冬降雪,又把山坡變成玉白,愈發嬌豔。火車還在兩個小站稍停,乘客可以下車,通過鑿石而成的“景窗”,欣賞對麵的天然圖畫。少女峰的主要山峰有三座,呈東西向排列。由東而西分別為老人峰、僧侶峰和少女峰,三峰的高度分別為3970米、4099米、4158米,漸次升高。圍繞這三座峰名字的由來有許多美麗的傳說,少女峰也因此成為許多藝術家創作的素材。“老人峰”出自德語,其意為“我在這裏”。“僧侶峰”則出自奧地利的一種馬的名字,“少女”的原意是修女。僧侶峰橫在老人峰和少女峰之間,使他們無法接觸,也因此產生了種種的解釋和傳說。
少女峰
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觀光台
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從觀光台看雪峰
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在雪峰上行攝
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瑞士名城盧塞恩的湖光山色
兩次來到盧塞恩,一晴一雨,因著天氣感受也不一樣。第一次陽光燦爛,湖光山色映襯下的盧塞恩,分外靚麗,恍若仙境;第二次是在陰雨中遊曆,細雨縹緲,空氣清濕,看著曾經熟悉的精致,更易引發對這座古老名城的幽思。
卡貝爾橋(意譯小教堂橋,因為橋是一條長廊,橋的兩側欄杆飾有許多鮮花,又稱廊橋、花橋)。這座古老的木橋幾乎成為盧塞恩的標誌。卡貝爾橋建於1300年,全長240米,有120幅圖畫繪在廊橋橫楣上,畫中敘述了盧塞恩州和瑞士聯邦的曆史,每幅畫下還配有一首德文題詩。橋的東側連有一座紅頂八角石塔,據說從前是用來關押囚犯的。
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北岸一個公園內的石壁上,鑿有一巨大獅子石雕。石獅長10米、高3米多的雄獅,被長矛刺中背部,痛苦地倒在地上;它的爪緊緊地執著一塊盾牌,盾牌邊上是兩支折斷的長矛。這頭戰鬥不息的雄獅似乎在向遊客講述著一段悲壯的故事:法國大革命中,1792年8月10日,國王路易十六和王後被革命黨人追殺,由800多名瑞士雇傭兵組成的衛隊保衛著國王和王後。最後,全部戰死沙場,國王和王後被俘。曆史上,瑞士是一個貧窮落後的國家,男子苦於生計,紛紛到歐洲各國當雇傭兵。瑞士士兵忠於雇主,英勇善戰。但金錢和榮譽掩蓋不住雇傭兵製度的殘酷,以這次事件為契機,瑞士停止了雇傭兵出口。
為了讓後代記住這一曆史,19世紀初,陣亡將士的親友策劃、並於1821年請丹麥雕塑家在美麗的羅伊斯河北岸的山坡上建造了這尊雄獅石雕。雕塑的下麵用拉丁文寫著:“獻給忠誠、勇敢的瑞士年輕人”。美國作家馬克·吐溫來到這裏時,將其譽為“世界上最悲壯和最感人的石雕”。
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第二次來到盧塞恩。雨中的盧塞恩街巷、商店。
在這座老城裏鍾表店、巧克力店、工藝品店比比皆是。
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盧塞恩三麵山色蔥蘢、岡巒起伏;一麵湖光粼粼、碧波千裏。那湖水漫布在城區的東南方向,堤岸蜿蜒曲折,景色蒼茫萬象。有人稱它為盧塞恩湖,但它的水域連及四個州的土地,所以四州湖這個名字對它更為恰當。四州湖是瑞士聯邦的發祥地。圖為雨中盧塞恩湖美景。
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