《行走等候千年的古城》

時間：2006年12月29日至2007年1月1日



      湘西的鳳凰，對我而言是陌生的、神秘的，然而也是誘惑的，隱隱約約感受到一種遙遠的邀約，讓我不禁對她怦然心動，向往這夢一般的地方。



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414301338453.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



一、我們在途中



：




      鳳凰為我等了千年，  我為鳳凰二十四小時長途跋涉。



      由於東莞買不到往吉首的臥鋪車票，我們不得不前往廣州火車站搭車。



      我們約好在常平火車站集合。




      東莞往廣州的車是12：01分開出，可是一刀卻是12：00才趕到，幸好火車晚點十分鍾才讓我們都順利搭上火車了。



      不到一個小時，我們就到達廣州了，在真功夫吃過午餐後，我們就進火車站等著出發了。



      火車又晚點了，我們在車站等了一個小時， 下午三點多才上了往吉首的車，第二天八點多到了吉首，包了車趕到鳳凰時，剛好是早晨十點半，與我從家中出發，剛剛是二十四小時，為了鳳凰跋涉了二十四小時，也不枉鳳凰等了我們千年吧。



      雖然路途遙遠，可一點卻不覺得辛苦，坐火車的感覺真好！




      本來是2張中鋪，5張上鋪，而且是分散的，可是我們發揮了帥哥的魅力，通過換票，不僅讓我們相對集中，而且還拿到一張下鋪，開心S了。



      喝茶，唇齒間的芳香，讓人精神一振。



      聊天、打牌、發貼、拍照、發呆……



      對麵坐著的是一對來自香港的老夫妻,溫和儒良的樣子，對我們的一舉一動很好奇並報以會心的微笑，和我們聊天。同車的還有一班從廣州來的遊客，在未來兩天裏多次碰麵，甚至後來也是同一班車回去。




      九點半睡覺……



      早晨六點起來，好清爽的早晨啊，大片大片的翠綠掠過眼簾，內心的喜悅悄然彌漫。



      火車早晨八點多就到吉首了。



      一下車，感覺到一股寒氣撲麵而來，幸好我們已全副武裝：大衣、圍巾、手套。




      吉首站並不大，隨處看到的是與我們一樣前來與鳳凰相約的遊客。



      買了三張返程火車票後，我們包了兩輛的士往鳳凰而去了。



      一路上我心情很平靜，或許因為鳳凰平來就是一個平靜的小城，因此我也以一種平靜的心情向她朝聖。



二、鳳凰初印象：








       在臨近南華門還有幾百米處，居然碰到塞車，我們於是下車步行前往。



       想著傳說中的鳳凰即將親近，沿著泥濘的路我不由跑起來了，顧不得褲腳上沾了斑斑點點的泥……



       碧綠的沱江漸漸靠近，遠處的古色古香的房子，掉光葉子的楓樹，好安靜的感覺。




       天氣是陰冷潮濕,沒有陽光，一切盡在霧中。



       雖然象其它旅遊城市一樣，我們也到處碰到的“孜孜不倦”的拉客者,新城中毫無特色的街道，各式門市、出租車,但隻消轉個彎到了古城，你就可以將失望的情緒拋在腦後了。



      古城很小，如不長時間駐足兩左右個小時就可以逛完了。小城分為東城景區，沙灣景區，北城景區。




      北門景區有古城樓、城牆、跳岩、特色民居、文廟、名人故裏, 周圍青山秀美，配上碧綠沱江，倒影嫋嫋，讓人心醉。東門景區則由石板街、古碼頭、升恒門、吊腳樓、配上那一街的特色商店和鳳凰小吃組成，值得品味。 沙灣景區則集古虹橋、萬名塔、遐昌閣以及鳳凰八景中的五景皆聚於此，是一道獨特的風景線。



      到處都是客棧，所以在這裏一點都不用擔心住的的問題。



      我們在靠近北城景區的地方找了家客棧，15元一人/晚，配熱水器，也很幹淨。



      離我們住的地方一百米就到了北門城樓。




      在跳岩邊上拍照時，由於沱江水太清了，小妹不小心就把腳踩到水裏了，於是我們陪著她去買了鞋子了，之後吃午餐。



      然後開始在小城裏閑逛了。



      這時候的小城，遊客並不多，給人感覺是一個慢悠悠的，安靜閑適的。冬天的人們都喜歡坐在火爐旁邊，蓋著小棉被，或是坐著繡鞋墊，或是聊天，或是無所事事的樣子。



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414301363961.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">




screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414301311372.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414301387157.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414301349551.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414301338453.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414322142863.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414322118580.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414322149234.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414322179194.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">




screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414322196138.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414342190165.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414342120750.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414342190927.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414342125278.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414342198572.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414355033790.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414355065592.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414355040160.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">




screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414355075729.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414355047805.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071415355821840.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071415355848561.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



三、泛舟沱江



：



      “我情感流動而不凝固，一派清波給予我的影響實在不小，我幼小時較美麗的生活，大部分都同水不能分離。我的學校極可以說是在水邊的。我認識美，學會思索，水對我有極大的關係。”-------沈從文  




      可以說，鳳凰的精髓在於古城，古城的精髓在於沱江。沱江的水是靈動，沱江上的人也是靈動的，坐在船上看著青山綠水，本身就是一種享受。



      又一次碰到了廣州的那班遊客，於是相約一起泛舟沱江。



      船夫說如果是夏天就熱鬧了，可以打水仗，通常在船靠岸前便會收獲半船的河水和一船的歡聲笑語。



      我倒很享受此刻的寧靜。拿起槳，在這靜美的河麵上輕輕推開一道水痕，馬上便恢複平整如玉。




      船兒輕輕的，悠悠的，周圍安逸的感覺，偶爾一陣悠揚婉轉的苗家姑娘或船夫的山歌聲飄入耳際。



      沱江水好清啊，碧綠的水草，密密的，柔柔的，讓人不禁浮現出徐誌摩的詩句：“軟泥上的青荇，油油的在水底招搖；在康河的柔波裏，我甘心做一條水草。”



      岸邊的人們洗著紅蘿卜，那鮮豔的紅，與翠綠的葉子，也能讓人眼前一亮。



      真是“舟行碧波上，人在畫中遊”啊！




screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/2007141439712505.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/2007141439733091.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/2007141439713267.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/2007141439737619.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/2007141439720912.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/2007141440798270.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414405480505.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



四、聽濤山上的沈從文墓地




      船夫告訴我們沈從文的墓地就在岸邊的聽濤山上。於是下了船後，我們便前往觀瞻。這是一座不起眼的小山。沿山路而上最先看到的是黃永玉寫的一塊石碑，上邊刻著沈從文的名言：“一個士兵，要不戰死沙場，便是回到故鄉。”再往上走，是兩道分叉的山間小路，該往左還是往右？沒有任何標識，於是我們試著往左邊走，拾階而上，看到的是一綠油油的菜地，於是又往回走，繞了一大圈，終於看到一塊石頭。這便是葬有沈從文骨灰的五色石，石上刻著：“照我思索，可理解我；照我思索，可認識人。”背麵則刻是：“不折不從，星鬥其文；亦慈亦讓，赤子其人。”



      從文先生的墓竟也如此樸素平常，與他的文字一樣平淡而又優美，毫不張揚，靜靜地在這沱江邊聽著濤聲依舊。



      離開聽濤山不遠的一條小巷，擁擠的人群擋住了我們前進的道路。原來有當地人辦喪事，響起驚天動地的鞭炮聲，在這本來幽靜古老的小巷驚起一片煙塵霧海。足足有十幾分鍾，我們躲在一邊，心想在這安靜小城生活的人們最後謝幕，竟要用這樣的喧鬧來裝點？



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414422316526.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">




screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414471515929.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



五、晚上沱江邊







      夜幕漸漸降臨，雨也時有時無地下著。此次鳳凰之行，可惜沒有見到下雪。如果溫度再低一點，這飄渺的雨便會化為雪花飄飄吧，於是我隻能發揮想象力，告訴自己這就是雪了。



      晚餐吃的是火鍋，一人十元任吃，加上酒錢7人才花掉102元，挺值的。熱騰騰的火鍋，讓我們的幸福指數又提高了不少。




      買了煙花，我們便來到了沱江邊，眼前的景象讓人不禁有種驚豔的感覺。



      天色已全暗，兩岸的吊腳樓上亮起點點燈火，紅紅燈籠，映照著夜晚的江水，稍遠處的虹橋上更是燈火通明，在水麵上映畫出美麗迷人的圓形橋洞來。江邊，跳岩上站著放河燈的人們，燃著小蠟燭的河燈在江麵上隨水漂去，象一朵朵盛開的花兒，承載著人們的點點希翼。



      當然，我們的煙花也給夜色的沱江增添了一份風情。



      在這樣美麗的沱江邊我竟然碰見自己的小學同學。阿凡叫我的名字時，我與她擁抱時竟叫出童年中另一個夥伴的名字。她不僅僅是我的同學，也是從小一起長大的，見證了彼此的曾走過的童年與青春的夥伴。她與另外三位上網上認識的朋友自駕前來的。




      走過跳岩，在守望者酒吧盡情將這美麗的夜晚進行到底。



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414553781806.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414553785565.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414553737699.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414553739881.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414553728783.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



六、苗寨走一遭




      晚上睡覺時真冷，棉被太薄了，還是睡到淩晨五點鍾醒來，才知道自己已成為冰人，雙腳成冰棍，於是將自己象裹粽子一樣裹起來，再加個大衣，感覺暖和了些才繼續悠悠然進入夢鄉也。



      睡到八點多醒來，睜開眼睛，想起今天是紫嫣的生日，於是對她說:”你今天長尾巴了沒有?”嗬嗬，長了長了。



      刷牙時聽到油研的吼聲：“起床啦起床，你們這班人真能睡，都九點鍾了，我都拍完照回來了…….”



      吃了早餐,接著出發去苗塞,本來是想去老家寨,後來我們經過司機強烈推薦，我們去了香爐山苗寨。




      接待我們的是一個苗族的阿嬸,身裝苗族衣服，身上掛滿了不少銀飾品，說是結婚時帶來的，阿嬸特喜歡笑，總是說不了幾句話，自己就嗬嗬地笑個不停。



     下過雨後的山間石階路顯得格外滑,斜斜地接近九十度，我們都小心翼翼地走著，心怕一腳踩空跌落深涯。很快到了一個土匪洞，幽幽的，深深的，一條清溪穿洞而過。據說這個土匪洞很不簡單，當年解放軍花了三個月才打下來。抬頭看到的堡，似乎也訴說著當年的風霜歲月。



      出了洞，翻過一個小山峰，苗寨就映入眼簾，一路上聽到苗家姑娘的歌聲。



      接下來的選種是進入苗家寨。迎接我們的是一列排開的苗族MM（可是看來看去其中隻有三個是年輕的，好象還有大嫂級甚至是阿婆級呢）。她們唱起了苗族歌曲，雖然聽不懂她們唱什麽，但看到她們個個臉上都笑開花，心裏也挺舒暢的。




      接下來發生的是精彩的一幕：我們的原兮大哥被搶親了！原兮可是明星啊，看他長相分明就是和坤（王剛）的高大英俊版。說時遲那時快，苗家MM唱著唱著就將原兮和另一個苗家MM用紅繩繞在一起，原兮大哥算是被搶了！原兮一下子沒反應過來，略為錯愕後還是笑得樂嗬嗬的，不過讓他鬱悶的是，那位“MM”原來是三十年前的苗家姑娘，現在是個地地道道的阿婆啊。



      接著喝了酒，欣賞了熱情的花鼓舞後，我們進寨了。村民都很熱情，我們用剛學到的苗家話與他們打招呼。走進一家苗族人家，裏麵是擺了三兩個賣小飾品的小攤，紡紗的婆婆，百歲的老人家臉無表情坐在陰暗的角落任由遊客觀賞。有兩個小女孩，三四歲光景，一個長得如花似玉，一個可愛得象個小豬頭，兩人都盛裝打扮，苗服，銀飾品叮咚作響，一路上陪著遊客照相。舉起兩個小手指頭，裝可愛的樣子，似乎是職業性的動作，每每將她雙指放下，她忽一下又用另一手舉起兩指，引起一陣笑聲。



      接下來進則欣賞表演的，唱歌、花鼓舞、杆、跳繩、對歌……



      當主持人說要找三位GG上台比賽，我們的油研第一個衝上台，還牛了一把呢。看他穿了一身阿婆的服裝，大搖大擺地走貓步。在脫衣比賽環節中，他還得了冠軍呢。




       中午飯可豐盛了,七個人吃了十八道菜,看PP。



       雖然此次苗家寨一走，並沒有讓我們見到想見的淳樸與古老的感覺，一切都流於表演的形式，真正打動心靈深處的東東並沒有感受到，但是我們快樂的七人組還是在吃與玩方麵盡興了，足矣!



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414583349474.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414583358843.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">




screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414583395368.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414583329839.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/2007141459684609.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414595118993.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/200714150669156.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">



screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor='hand'; this.alt='Click here to open new window CTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open('http://www.dgpub.cn/bbs/UploadFile/2007-1/20071414583340937.jpg');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" border="0">