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饕餮 Fiddlehead Fern

(2005-05-29 16:30:40) 下一個

在 New York magazine 上看到一篇關於吃 fiddlehead fern 的文章 。今天碰巧在商店裏看到這個菜,忍不住買來試做。

洗好摘淨,菜下鍋,一股怪味撲鼻而來。有網站上說這個菜味道 pungent 真是 no kidding。不過菜已經在鍋裏,隻好硬著頭皮繼續炒。鹽,胡椒 the usual stuff。臨急抱佛腳,又下了一注白酒。鍋裏頓時撲出一大陣怪味,當時差點給熏暈倒。心裏想:well, that's four bucks that I will never see. ; )

但是不忍心就此放棄,找到那本雜誌,看到裏麵有寫還要放 chili peppers, among whole bunch of other stuff。於是又揉碎了了個幹辣椒放下去。手邊正好還有一隻蒸好的龍蝦,於是又起了一些龍蝦肉丟到鍋裏。炒啊炒啊,拿起一片fern 嚐,怪味基本上沒有了,居然不是很難吃。沒有很多菜味,instead 是植物的味道。texture 方麵,有一些纖維,但是絕不 chewy。

總的來說,這次的實驗還算圓滿。不過以後可能不會再買了。拍照留念。:)

New York 雜誌上的原文:

In Season
Fiddlehead Ferns
Think of fiddlehead ferns, those tightly coiled, emerald-green symbols of spring, as ferns interrupted.


(Photo credit: Carina Salvi)

Think of fiddlehead ferns, those tightly coiled, emerald-green symbols of spring, as ferns interrupted. Left unforaged, they’d mature into tall, feathery fronds. Gathered young by farmers like Franca Tantillo, who sells them at her Berried Treasures Greenmarket stand, they boast a crunchy texture and vegetal flavor prized by seasonally minded chefs. At the Spotted Pig, April Bloomfield sautées them with ramps and garlic for a particularly pungent, pancetta-enhanced bruschetta topping.

April Bloomfield’s Fiddlehead-Fern Bruschetta
10 ounces ramps
10 ounces fiddlehead ferns
4 tablespoons butter
Pinch Maldon sea salt
Pinch crushed chili pepper
2 cloves garlic (1 chopped, 1 halved)
Half a lemon
4 slices Italian bread (Bloomfield recommends filone from Sullivan St. Bakery)
4 teaspoons olive oil
8 slices pancetta, cooked until crisp

Illustrations by John Burgoyne

Wash ramps and fiddlehead ferns well. Slice off and reserve the white bulbs of the ramps, and chop the green leaves into thirds. Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat until it starts to froth.
(1) Add ferns, the ramp bulbs, sea salt, and chili flakes. Cook until vegetables are slightly soft, approximately two minutes. Add ramp leaves. Toss and check seasoning. Cook until slightly brown (approximately three minutes). Add chopped garlic. Turn off heat. Drizzle lightly with lemon. Toast or grill bread until brown.
(2) Rub lightly with halved garlic clove and drizzle with olive oil.
(3) Top with ferns, ramps, and pancetta. Serves 4.

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