NEW YORK, February 16, 2009
Jill Stuart wants to rock—sartorially, that is. And so she did with a Fall collection inspired by "iconic women of music." Stuart mentioned Françoise Hardy, but also very present in this louche mix of leather, lace, and velvet were Anita Pallenberg, Stevie Nicks, and even a touch of early Madonna. As she's done in the past, Stuart played the look both ways—dark and vixen-y on the one hand and angelic on the other. In the latter camp was an ivory tailcoat on Marina Peres, worn, as most looks were, with a tilted fedora topped with lace flowers that immediately said: Bianca—Mick—wedding day. The many dandified tailcoats and use of millinery throughout served as the necessary masculine foil to Stuart's typically very girlish leanings. Leather pants, topped with fringed, webby knits or lace poet blouses, did the same. Then again, Stuart can't forget her core customer, who loves a pretty, straightforward frock, so a floral embroidered blush chiffon dress and a black bugle-beaded number slipped in without rippling the surface. The same can't be said of a plain black princess coat that made its wearer look like she'd taken a wrong turn somewhere. Perhaps she was the chaperone. After all, with a group of young girls wearing so much eye makeup, there's bound to be some bad behavior.
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