回家後,我時常會想起那份白肉醬。雖然在美國買不到意大利那樣香的肉,但我通過加入Soffritto 和茴香籽,成功複刻了那份難忘的味道。Soffritto 也被稱為“holy trinity”(洋蔥、胡蘿卜、芹菜),是法國和意大利常用的基本原料搭配,就像中國的蔥薑蒜一樣。其實在科莫湖的肉醬中,他們可能也是用了soffritto相似的調料,隻是他們切的很細或者隻用了汁,所以我們在肉醬表麵上看不到蔬菜的影子。八月,我把自己做出的食譜分享在Stroll雜誌我的專欄上。美國人的食譜需要板板眼眼多少茶勺或者湯勺,中國人則隻要大概,自己會靈活把握。
我選擇了意大利肉腸和牛肉的組合,使肉汁的味道更加濃鬱。對我來說,沒有西紅柿的肉醬其實更簡單,配上新鮮的蛋麵、幹麵,長的短的都很完美。
小火炒香soffritto
今年六月,朋友送我的長豇豆種子開始結果了。
第一次種長豇豆 - 既好看也好吃
我突然想到,長豆角配科莫湖的肉醬肯定會非常好吃。馬上就試做了兩次。正好那些天家裏有朋友來,嚐過的朋友都讚不絕口。連平時抱怨不要吃麵食的老史也是次次清盤。
那天用了有機的彩虹胡蘿卜,加上蔥和芹菜。
先炒好肉醬 其實彩虹紫色胡蘿卜有點兒影響顏值
豆角加一點兒西紅柿很提味兒
加西紅柿讓我想起小時候特別喜歡蒜,西紅柿和豆角配在一起的味道。
豆角炒一下加入一部分炒好的肉醬這麵條的配料就做好了。
那天有朋友來,我配了從意大利寄回來的幹意麵。
考慮到有朋友不吃麵食,我試了用金黃的小土豆,還有新鮮的玉米代替麵條來配豆角肉醬都很好吃。現在也正好是新鮮玉米的季節,美國朋友也特別讚同這個配法。
這個專欄已經開了兩年多了。一直沒有把裏麵的食譜故事用中文分享出來。這次想做一下嚐試,為想學做西餐的朋友們提供一下細節,希望有用。
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七月初,與雜誌社討論八月的食譜時,我想到了這個簡單又滿足的麵醬。主編一聽我的想法,立刻表示讚同。今天這個食譜故事在八月的Stroll Historic Brookhaven雜誌上發表了。由於版麵的限製,每次的稿子都在四百字左右。如果雜誌的廣告多,食譜故事有時隻會占一個版麵,照片較少。
這個食譜看上去和科莫湖的那個白色肉醬好像變化太大了,但其精髓的啟示卻是來自那裏。豆角,西紅柿和蒜配在一起則是我小時候喜歡的中國北方味道。
我想我們人類曆史的發展不也是不斷地交融,演變,更新才會前進的嗎?這個食譜很準確的體現了這個英文專欄的宗旨,
“Nancy的探奇廚房”,每個食譜都來自一個令人興奮的體驗
以下是英文的原版,新鮮豆角配無番茄肉醬
Every Recipe a New Adventure
White Ragù with Fresh Beans
In fall 2021, after driving through Italy and France for a few weeks, my husband and I took a break in Bellagio, Lake Como. Friends recommended Trattoria San Giacomo, a small casual restaurant where the standout dish was a simple White Ragù with Fettuccine. I’d never tried white ragù before, but it was so delicious that we returned three more times. Once home, I replicated it, finding it simpler than traditional red ragù. Recently, with fresh beans from our garden, I decided to combine them.
This ragù pairs well with any shape of pasta, or you can substitute sweet corn or steamed golden potatoes. It’s quick, easy, and comforting. I hope you and your family enjoy it!
Ingredients
Ragù:
- 3/4 lb ground pork and mild Italian sausage mix
- 1/2 lb grass-fed ground beef
- 4 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp for beans
- 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
- 2 carrots (rainbow-colored if available), finely chopped
- 3 celery stalks, finely chopped
- 1/3 tsp fennel seeds
- 1/4 tsp red chili flakes (optional)
- 1/2 cup white wine
- 1 tbsp butter
Beans:
- 1 lb fresh beans, chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 5 small tomatoes, cubed
- Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
- Heat olive oil in a pan over medium heat. Sauté onion, carrots, and celery for 10 minutes to create a soffritto. Add fennel seeds and chili flakes.
- Add the ground meat to soffritto and sauté for about 10 minutes. Pour in the wine, then add butter, salt, and pepper. Cook for another 15-20 minutes. Remove from the pot and set aside.
- In the same pot, add 1 tbsp of olive oil and minced garlic. Sauté briefly.
- Add the beans and cook until they change color, then add the tomatoes. Cook for about 3 minutes. Add the desired amount of ragù to the beans and let it cook for about 10 minutes. Normally, the meat ragù can be used for more than one meal.
Garlic and tomato complement the fresh beans beautifully, while the ragù adds excellent flavor. It’s a great way to enjoy plenty of vegetables in the summer.
Enjoy your cooking!
希望你也可以在家做出自己喜歡的肉醬。如果有問題敬請留言提問。