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帶著女兒遊歐洲(10):大衛雕像•詩人但丁•大比薩餅

(2013-09-14 16:33:01) 下一個

知道誰是文藝複興三傑嗎?米開朗基羅、達芬奇和拉斐爾。

三個人之中誰最偉大?這自然很難說了,青菜蘿卜各有所好。但是佛羅倫薩的選擇是不言而喻的,米開朗基羅是一位偉大的雕塑家、建築師、畫家和詩人,在佛羅倫薩有著舉足輕重的位置。光他的大衛雕像就有三座,原作收藏於佛羅倫薩國立美術學院(Galleria dell'Accademia),上次帶兒子遊歐洲時看了。這次是自選項目,因為參加的人數不夠而被取消。當然啦,有免費的複製品可看,就沒有那麽多人願意付費看真品了。

第一個仿作位於米開朗琪羅廣場(Piazzale Michelangelo),是一座青銅的人體雕像,健美的肌肉赤裸裸地展現著,正處於敏感期的女兒羞得正眼也不敢瞧。

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第二個仿作位於維琪奧王宮(Palazzo Vecchio)的門口左側。

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維琪奧王宮也叫做舊宮,現在是佛羅倫薩的市政廳宮前是佛羅倫薩最熱鬧的西紐利亞廣場(Plazza della Signoria),那裏有許多古代及文藝複興式樣的大理石人物雕像。

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維琪奧王宮裏麵的裝飾與壁畫也獨具特色。

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烏菲茲美術館(Galleria degli Uffizi)是佛羅倫薩曆史最悠久的藝術博物館。

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維琪奧橋(Ponte Vecchio)也叫做舊橋,是佛羅倫薩最古老的橋梁。橋下的阿爾諾河(Arno River)上正舉行劃船比賽耶。

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達芬奇住過的房子,據說他那時已經開始創作蒙娜麗莎,隻可惜他將許多作品帶到了巴黎,並且永遠地留在了那裏。

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聖十字大殿(Basilica di Santa Croce)是座大教堂,裏麵安葬了許多名人,例如但丁、米開朗琪羅、伽利略、馬基雅維利、羅西尼和馬可尼,因而被稱為意大利的先賢祠。聖十字大殿門前的雕像是大詩人但丁。

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在但丁的有生之年,他被驅逐出佛羅倫薩,成為一個不受歡迎的人。在但丁去世之後,他的遺體被請回佛羅倫薩,竟被他的出生地奉為神明。

這是但丁曾經的居所。

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這是地上的但丁像,灑了水之後看得比較清楚。

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但丁的《神曲》是世界上最重要的文學作品之一。他以第一人稱記述自己35歲時(人生的中途),誤入一座黑暗的森林(象征罪惡)。在一座小山腳下,有三隻猛獸攔住去路,一隻母狼(象征貪欲),一隻獅子(象征野心),以及一頭豹(象征逸樂),又一種說法是說它們分別象征教皇、法國國王和佛羅倫薩人。在他呼救時,出現了古羅馬詩人維吉爾的靈魂,對他說:“你不能戰勝這三隻野獸,我指示你另一條路徑。” 維吉爾帶領他穿過地獄、煉獄,然後把他交給昔日情人貝阿特麗切的靈魂,帶他遊曆天堂,一直到見到上帝。

貝阿特麗切住過的地方,當年但丁單相思暗戀她時,在這個小黑屋簷下望眼欲穿了吧。

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百花聖母大教堂(Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore)是文藝複興時期的傑作,世界上莊嚴雄偉的教堂很多,但很少有教堂能如此嫵媚。這座用白、紅、綠三色大理石建造的教堂將文藝複興時代所推崇的古典、優雅、自由詮釋得淋漓盡致。

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百花聖母大教堂原址是建於4世紀的聖·雷帕拉塔教堂。1296年,喬凡尼·美第奇出資建造新的教堂,花了175年時間才最終建成。教堂由阿諾福·迪坎比奧(Arnorfo di Cambio)負責建造,布魯涅內斯基(Brunelleschi)設計了中央巨大的圓頂,這個圓頂是古典藝術與當時科學的完美結合,連教皇也驚歎其象神話一般,一位音樂家專門為它作了一首協奏曲,後來米開朗基羅也感歎:“聖彼得大教堂可以建得比它大,卻不可能比它美”。

圓頂內部是瓦薩裏所繪製的穹頂畫《末日審判》。

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阿諾福·迪坎比奧與布魯涅內斯基的雕像。

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百花聖母大教堂邊上的喬托鍾樓。

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聖喬凡尼禮拜堂(Battistero di San Giovanni)是百花聖母大教堂對麵的八角形教堂,建於5世紀到8世紀之間,是托斯坎尼地區羅馬式建築的代表。禮拜堂有三麵青銅門浮雕,入口處南側的青銅門是由安德烈.比薩諾於1330年製作的,28張圖樣是關於約翰傳教的故事。那時的建築師的自由度比較大,在金碧輝煌的浮雕旁邊,比薩諾父子將自己的頭像刻上,與青銅門一起流芳百世。

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讀到這兒,你對佛羅倫薩有點印象了吧,在下麵的全景圖中你能找出幾個地標?維琪奧橋?維琪奧王宮?百花聖母大教堂?

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我們當天晚上吃比薩餅,意大利的比薩餅與美國的不同:皮薄奶酪少。每人一個大比薩,一杯飲料,15歐,導遊的安排還不錯吧。

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女兒日記

17 day trip – day 11

Driving: four out of five

There's a new bus driver today! Under European law, if you work 10 days in a row, then you have to take a 3-day rest. The driving was pretty smooth, and the scenery was very good. I slept through most of it, though.

Florence: five out of five

Florence is a very big city. Even though it's so big, though, tourists outnumber natives! The local people say that we are like sand on a beach – everywhere. There are 3 main squares in Florence. Each has at least one church. One church is very big. It was originally built to be the biggest church of that time, but about ¼ through, they learned that another city was building an even bigger church! They decided to enlarge their current design. Now, the church is only 3rd biggest, but they are still happy because their church is bigger than the other city's church. I ate some gelato ice cream (again). Another place I visited was the Old Palace. The native people have a story about it. One of the rulers there married a woman who had 7 attributes, and one of them was intelligence. When she went to the palace, every day she had headaches. The ruler soon got them too. He asked why, and she said it was because the palace was too claustrophobic. They got a new palace (called New Palace) and the headaches stopped. Soon, though, women all over Florence started getting headaches, too! I only saw the Old Palace. After that, I went to a square full of statues. One of them was a replica of David. About 2/3 were naked. (Sad face!!!!)

Right now, I'm staying in Rome. Don't forget to read my next reviews!

P.S. Holiday Inn is a very good hotel.

P.S.S. Beware of pickpockets if you decide to go to Florence.

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