瑪雅文化主要在危地馬拉,不是墨西哥。
危地馬拉一定要去。危地馬拉 Guatemala 是中美洲最有特色的國家,曆史很悠久,到處都是瑪雅遺址,最大的金字塔群都在那裏。墨西哥的那些金字塔比較新,是瑪雅後期的。另外有很多漂亮的火山,有世界上最美麗的湖,有山裏的文化,有高山有叢林。。。應有盡有的人文和自然景觀。不過現在那裏政府非常腐敗,十分貧窮,治安也不好。
洪都拉斯 Honduras 有一些瑪雅遺址,有一處非常精美。另外比較值得看的是海裏的珊瑚礁和熱帶魚,價格便宜。去他們國家的國際航班都是停 San Pedro Sula 的國際機場。
薩爾瓦多 El Salvador 小國,好像值得看的不多。
尼加拉瓜 Nicaragua 沒有瑪雅遺址,但有火山。據說現在正在開發,山裏有很多便宜的去處。
哥斯達黎加 Costa Rica 十分西化,自然景觀很美,但比較貴,沒有太多中美洲的文化。
巴拿馬 Panama 也很西化了。有運河。伯利茲 Belize 我去過,雖在中美洲,但文化與景觀接近於加勒比海。以前是英國殖民地,所以生活條件很富裕。有瑪雅遺址以及海灘,珊瑚礁。
去 Lake Atitlan 可以先到 Guatamala City 然後乘汽車過去。據說很多嬉皮士和藝術家買了房地產住在湖邊。危地馬拉已經幾乎沒有火車了。我抄段赫胥黎(Huxley)的話,是說,Lake Atitlan 比意大利的 Lake Como 還美。
Lake Como, it seems to me, touches the limit of the permissibly picturesque; but Atitlán is Como with the additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It is really too much of a good thing. After a few days of this impossible landscape one finds oneself thinking nostalgically of the English Home Counties.-- Aldous Huxley, Beyond the Mexique Bay (1934)
In 1841 John Stephens was so impressed with the ruins at Quiriguá that he planned to take them home, using the Río Motagua to float the stones to the Caribbean so that "the city might be transported bodily and set up in New York". Fortunately, the asking price was beyond his means and the ruins remained buried in the rainforest until 1909, when the land was bought by the United Fruit Company.“Of one thing there is no doubt; a large city once stood there; its name is lost, its history unknown; and no account of its existence has ever before been published. For centuries it has lain as completely buried as if covered with the lava of Vesuvius. Every traveller from Yzabal to Guatimala has passed within three hours of it; we ourselves had done the same; and yet there it lay, like the rock-built city of Edom, unvisited, unsought, and utterly unknown.”-- John Lloyd Stephens (1884)
中國護照去危地馬拉很難拿到簽證。我就被拒簽了。:(
我到芝加哥和紐約(親身)的危地馬拉領事館,都說要審查三個月。他們問我有沒有綠卡,我說沒有,他們就說要審查。我用特區護照,他們問香港若是台灣就不用審查。我說香港不是台灣,但也跟共產中國不同,他們不知道香港在哪裏,致電回總部後說也算中國。後來我到伯利茲的首都那裏的危地馬拉大使館,向他們求情,他們也說要審查三個月,讓我到邊境試試運氣。我到邊境,伯利茲很通情達理,沒收我出境費,準許我跨國詢問。到了危地馬拉海關,我說隻去一天,跟旅行團看看金字塔。海關的人看了我的護照,說要審查三個月才能知道批不批準。我語言不同,不懂行賄。簡直太氣人了。不過他們的供詞倒很一致。