青清longhair

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窮遊法國(序)

(2012-07-22 14:48:53) 下一個


之所以說是
窮遊,不僅僅是指米不多,也指時間的不富裕。有限的錢加兩周的假,卻又想盡量玩遍法國,任務不能說不艱巨,所以,早早地在去年年底就開始做功課了。

當時,先近水樓台地跑文學城世界風情翻精化帖,看來一番下來,忍不住在坦子裏歎:美文靚片看得很過癮可惜沒找到什麽技術貼呀!於是,風坦的tang班給我指了條道(多謝、多謝!):窮遊的攻略強些哈。

第一次聽到窮遊,猜是個新的旅行網站吧(對於我這個、中文旅行網站隻十來年前泡過新浪驢壇和攜城的老土來說),忙去狗了出來。果真攻略不少,而且出奇的完全和細致,尤其是巴黎,那行程線路都短中長,浪漫、購物地介紹了好幾條。可惜的是,我還是沒找到環法遊的行程推薦,隻好又一次開始自己閉門造車了(十年前、曾如此造出過一個環遊新疆的行程,誘惑鼓動了好些人用了、去了,到最後卻是自己還從沒去過:))

在圖書館借了本法國遊的書,又拿了些Air Transat(我們這主打歐洲的航空公司)的旅遊雜誌,再加上google map和城裏網友量子當時正在熱播的量子遊南歐和後來小灶的法國舊照片(再次感謝量子妹妹!),最終造出篇窮遊法國的行程。十一月底,行程大框架出來的時候,就請好了休假時間,買好了機票 。這麽早就定下心買了票,一是因為賣機票的網站說,定票之後如果同航班有更低的票價,他們保證match;二是,也可以把費用分散開來花哈。

二月的時候,詳細地線路就出來了,然後,把沿途住的地方也陸續預定了,大功基本告成。於是,就有機會成了慢一拍的林粉,轟轟烈烈地看了幾個月的NBA,並且很幸運地、在出發前、完整地看完了決賽。

這幾個月裏,除了跟了跟上埃菲兒鐵塔頂的票(最終沒能買上,五月時票就賣到七月底的日子了),網購了盧浮空的票,了解了機場去酒店如何走、和巴黎的地鐵票種類和費用,就是最後finalize了整個行程安排——下麵就是這最後版的計劃了。


Day 1
(June 24, 2012, Sunday):  Leave Montreal at 6:50pm


Day 2 (June 25, 2012, Monday): Paris

Take a flight that arrives in Paris as early as possible. Check into hotel and hit the nearest café for a pick-me-up café au lait and a croissant before sightseeing. Take a Metro to the Palais Royal-Musee du Louvre for a visit to the Musee du Louver. Spend at lease 2 hours here view world-class masterpieces such as Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa.

After leaving the Louvre, walk south toward the Quays of the Seine, spending an hour taking in the tree-shaded banks and panoramic vistas of Paris. Head for that island in the Seine, Ile de la Cite, to explore its attractions including Ste-Chapelle and the monumental Notre-Dame. After, might visit Ils St-Louis, which after Cite, is the second island in the Seine. Lacking monumental attractions, this little isle is a sight in itself, which quays to stroll and small side streets where can discover hidden wonders such as antiques shops and little bistros. We might have dinner in one of those bistros.

Musee du Louver: Metro: Pallais-Royal_Musee du Louver. 01-40-20-53-17 or 08-92-68-46-94 for advance credit card sales. Admission 9 euro, free for children 17 and under; free to all 1st Sunday of every month. Sat-Mon and Thurs 9am – 6pm; Wed and Fri 9am – 10pm. Close Tuesday.

Ste-Chapelle: Paris’s second-most important monument from the Middle Ages (after Notre-Dame). Admission 9euro, free for children 17 and under. Metro: Cite, St-Michel, Or Chate-let-les Halles

Notre-Dame: For 6 centuries, it has stood as a Gothic masterpiece of the Middle Ages. Free admission to the cathedral. Towers admission 8euro, free for children 17 and under. Metro: Cite, St-Michel, Or Chate-let-les Halles

Stay at Paris (Hotel Atlantique)


Day 3
(June 26, 2012, Tuesday): Paris

Arrive at the Arc de Triomphe, which can scale for another panoramic view of Paris, and take a stroll up the 1.8km avenue of French grandeur, the Champs-Elysees, until reach the place de la Concorde and its Egyptian obelisk.

Then head for Musee d’Orsay and the world’s greatest collection of Impressionist paintings. After d’Orsay, take a Bateaux-Mouche cruise along the Seine. As the afternoon fades, head for Basilique du Sacre-Coeur for a crowning view of Paris as the sun sets.  Have a final dinner in a Montmartre cafe, if have time.

Place de la Concorde: an octagonal traffic hub built in 1757 to honor Louis XV. The statue of the king was torn down in 1792 and the name changed to a place de la Revolution. It’s dominated by an Egyptian obelisk from Luxor, the oldest man-made object in Paris.

Triomphe: At the western end of the Champs-Elysees, the Arc de Triomphe is the largest triumphal arch in the world, about 49m high and 44m wide. Don’t cross the square to reach it. With a dozen streets radiating from the “Star”, the traffic circle is vehicular roulette. It’s the busiest traffic hub in Paris. Instead, take the underground passage. Admission 9euro, free for children 17 and under. Apr-Sept daily 10am-11pm. Metro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile.

Musee d’Orsay: It is a repository of works by the Impressionists­­ as well as the Symbolists, Pointillist, Realists, and late Romantics. The most famous piece in the museum is Manet’s 1863 Dejener sur l’herbe (Picnic on the Grass), depicting a nude woman picnicking with two fully clothed man in a forest. Admission 8euro, free for children 17 and under. Thue-Wed and Frid-Sun 930am -6pm; Thurs 9:30am-9:45pm; close Mon. Metro: Solferino. 

Bateaux-Mouche: cruises depart from the Right Bank of the Seine, adjacent to pont de l’Álma, and last about 75 minutes. Tours leave daily at 20-minute intervals from 10:15am to 11pm between April and Sept. Fares are 10euro for adults and 5euro for children 4-13.

Basilique du Sacre-Coeur: Montmartre’s crowning achievement, with its gleaming white domes and campanile (bell tower), though its view of Paris takes precedence over the basilica itself. On a clear day, the vista from the dome can extent for 56km.  Free admission to basilica, joint ticket to dome and crypt 5euro adults. Basilica daily 6am-11pm; dome and crypt daily 9am-6pm. Metro: Abbesse; take elevator to surface and follow signs to funicular.

Stay at Paris (Hotel Atlantique)

 

Day4 (June 27, Wednesday):

Paris- Versailles - Rouen-Honfleur - Deauville

In the morning, go to the Versailles and see the highlights in 3 hours, including the Grands and Petits appartements, the glittering Hall of Mirrors, Gabriel’s Opera House, the Royal Chapel, and the Gardens of Versailles, which contain the Grand and Petit Trianons.

Then continue to Rouen, where Jeanne D’arc was burned alive, and see the Cathedral there. Cathedrale Norre-Dame, immortalized in paintings by Monet. Behind the cathedra is the Palais de l’Archeveche, which was bombed in the war. Now it stands naked against the sky. The broken arches and rosette windows witnessed the trial of Joan of Arc in 1431. Then go Normandie coast to visit a typical harbour in Honfleur, once a summer place where the impressionist painters would gather.  247km.

Versailles: 21km SW of Paris. Take the RER Line C to Versailles/River Gouche at the Gare dÁusterlitz, St-Michjel, Musee d’ Orsay, Invalides, Ponte de L’ Alma, Champ de Mars, or Javel stop. This trip takes 35 – 40 mins. Do NOT get off at Versailles Chantier, which is at the other end of town, a long walk form the château. The round trip fare is 5.6euro.

The Chateau Passeport, from Apr to Oct costs 20euro Monday to Friday, rising to 25euro Saturday and Sunday. From Nov to Mar its daily cost is 16euro. The pass is sold at the tourist office in Versailles and with it you can avoid the long lines at the chateau itself.

For driving, exit the peripherique (the ring road around Paris) on N10 (av. Du General-Leclerc), which goes to Versailler; park on place d’Armes in front of the chateau.

Cathedrale Norre-Dame: Place de la Cathedral. 02-32-71-71-60. Free admission. Mon 2-6pm, Tues-Sat 7 :30am-noon and 2-6pm.

Stay at Deauville (Hotel Du Polo)


Day5 (
June 28, Thursday):

Deauville – D Day Beach -Mont-ST-Michel

Leave the hotel in Deauville (A bit of West Honfleur) of the Normandie region, go to visit the beaches where the allied army touch ground during WORLD War 2. The voyage of discovery can begin at the seaside of Courseulles-sur-mer (or Arromaches-les-Bains), where we can visit Omaha Beach, Normandy American Cemetery and Utah Beah. D-day beaches were where Allied forces launched “the Longest Day”, the mammoth invasion of Normandy in June 1944 that signalled the beginning of the end of Hitler’s Third Reich)

The evening, drive to Mont-ST-Michel (less than 2 hr. away) and overnight in the pedestrian village on “the Rock”, giving us plenty of time for an early morning visit this popular attraction. In the summer, we can also take an illuminated night over. Mont-St-Michel, entrance to the Bretagne region, including the monastery a real man made wonder, and then the Mont-St-Michel Bay. 185km.

Mont-ST-Michel: you will have a steep climb up Grand Rue, lined with 15th and 16th- century houses, to reach the Abbey. Ramparts encircle the church and a three tiered ensemble of 13th – century building called La Merveille that rise to the pointed spire of the abbey church.  On the second terrace of La Merveille is one of Mont-St-Michel’s largest and most beautiful rooms, a 13th-century hall know as Salle des Chevaliers.

Year-round, day or night visits, with or without the tour, cost 8.5euro, 5euro for student and ages 18-25, and free for children 17 and under. 

Stay at Mont-St-Michel (Hotel Au P’tit Quinquin)


Day6 (June 29, Friday):

Mont-ST-Michel  - Fougères  - Vallée de la Loire (Castle)

Explore one of the great attractions of Europe, Mont-ST-Michel, in a minimum of 3 hours. This great Benedictine monastery, founded in 966, is best enjoyed by taking an English-language tours that covers the highlights. After viewing the abbey, drop in at La Mere Poulard for a legendary omelet.

After lunch, drive south, passing Fougeres, go to visit Castle Chambord (the biggest castle in La Loire region, representing the apogee of the French Renaissance architectural style. Allow 2 hours for a visit.  Back on the road again, continue southwest to the Chateau de Blois, called “the Versailles of the Renaissance” and a virtual illustrated story book of French architecture. 330km.

La Mere Poulard: Grande rue, MSM, 50116. Main courses 34euro-42euro+, fixed-price lunch 55euro-74euro, fixed-price dinner 39euro-85euro.

Chambord: 18km E of Blois. Open daily April to Sept 9am to 6:15pm. Admission is 9.50euro for adults and free for ages 25 and under. At the tourist office, you can pick up tickets for the summer son-et-lumiere presentation, “Jours et Siecles”. The price is 10euro. Allow 1.5 hours to visit the chateau.

Blois: The town of 55,000 receives half a million visitors very year. It’s a piece of living history, with cobblestone streets and restored white houses with slate roofs and re-brick chimneys. Blois hugs a hillside overlooking the Loire. Some of its “streets” are mere alleyways originally laid out in the Middle Ages, or lanes linked by a series of stairs. Allow 1.5 hours to see Blois.

Chateau de Blois: If stand in the courtyard, you’ll find the chateau is like an illustrated storybook of Frence achitectuer. It presents a son-et-lumiere show in France, usually beginning at 10:30pm. As a taped lecture plays, coloured lights and readings evoke the age in which the chateau was built. The show costs 7euro for adults, 3euro for children 7 – 15.  41000 Blois. Admission 8euro adults, 6.5euro students 12-25, 4euro children 6-17. July-Aug daily 9am-7pm

Stay overnight in Blois (Hotel Restaurant St Jacques).


Day7 (June 30, Saturday):

Vallée de la Loire-Tours – Cognac - Bordeaux

Continue southeast from Blois to Amboise, visit the 15th-century impressive Castle (Château d’Amboise) in the Italian Renaissance style, and also Clos-Luce (Gothic),

In the afternoon, drive southeast to Château de Chenonceau, famous for the French dames who have occupied its precincts, including Diane de Poitiers (mistress of the King) and Catherien de Medicis (cross over the Cher river, surrounded by wonderfully arranged gardens). Spend about 2 hours at the Chateau.

Then drive toward southwest to Poitiers to see the extraordinary Futuroscope buildings, then to Cognac, (the name Cognac is self-explicating) and  visit a distillery, and arrive Bordeaux at night.   423km

Château d’Amboise: Admission 9.7euro adults, 8.3euro students 12-25, 6.3euro children 7-14. April-June, daily 9am-6:30pm

Château de Chenonceau: A renaissance master piece, is one of the most remarkable castle in France because it spans an entire river. Open daily 9am to 8pm July and August. Admission is 11euro for adults, 8euro for students and children 7-15.

Stay at Bordeaux (Citotel le Chantry)


Day 8 (July 1, Sunday):

Bordeaux -Biarritz- Lourdes

In Bordeaux, will visit Saint-Émilion, walking in the small streets, and enjoying the neibourhood, a real open, outside museum. Then go toward Biarritz, a unique station on the Atlantic coast. On the way, we can see the sand dunes of the Landes (La dune du Pyla ), whose coast is lined with nice sand dunes.

Then,  will cross the Pyrénées Mountains passing by the enchanting village of: Aire-sur-l’Adour, and the city of Pau, going to Lourdes, the famous Pilgrim place, at the foot of the Pyrénées Mountains.  365km.

Bordeaux:  major cultural center and a transportation hub between France and Spain. It belonged to the British for 300 years and even today is considered the most “un-French” of French cities. 2 hours walking tour the tourist office arranged is strongly recommended. 10am year round, costs 7.5euro for adults, 6.5euro for students, 5euro for children 13-18 and free for 12 and under.

Saint-Émilion: 35km northeast of Bordeaux. Surrounded by vineyards, it is on a limestone plateau overlooking the valley of the Dordogne. The wine make in this district has been call “Wine of Honor”

La dune du Pyla: 33260 La Teste-de-Buch, France.

Stay at Lourdes (Hôtel Angelic-Myriam)


Day 9 (July 2, Monday):

Lourdes -Carcassonne - Sète

In the morning, might look at Basilica of Sainte Bernadette and the wonderful Basilique (Church) located at the top of the Sainte-Bernadette Cave, in Lourdes.  Afterwards, will go towards Carcassonne, where we will go back in time to the visit for a brief time, an unforgettable medieval city. Then go east towards Sète , one of the greatest harbours of the Mediterranean Sea, where we will sleep: 398km 

Stay at Sète (Etap Hotel)


Day 10 (July 3, Tuesday):

Sète –Nimes - Merseille -French Riviera (St-Tropez)

After the breakfast,  will go towards Nimes. In Nîmes, visit the Roman Arena, the Square House and its gardens. After, go to the Pont De Gard, the greatest and most visited antique monument in France, Roman aqueduct. Then, passing Merseille and arrive St-Tropez. Get in some beach time and spend a good part of the early evening in one of the cafes along the harbour, including the favourite French pastime of people-watching. 356km.

Stay at Fréjus (pass St-Tropez, Hotel L'oasis)


Day 11 (July 4, Wednesday):

French Riviera (St-Tropez – Cannes - Nice – Monaco – Nice)

In the morning, drive 50km east along the coast until reach Cannes. Get in some time at the beach, notably at Plage de la Croisette. 

It’s only a 32 km drive east from Cannes to Nice, the Riviera’s largest city. After checking into a hotel (the most affordable along the Riviera), scroll through Vieille Ville, the old town, beginning at the foot of: “the Rock”. Enjoy a snack of socca, a round crepe made with chickpea flour that’s sold steaming hot by street vendors. Then head for the promenade des Anglais, the wide boulevard along the water front. Stop in at one of the grand cafes along the water for a light lunch. In the afternoon, head for the best of the hill towns above Nice, notably St-Paul-de-Vence, only 31kim to the north.

Late afternoon, head east for the most hair-raising but thrilling drive in all of France, a trip along the Grande Corniche highway that stretches 31km east from Nice to the little resort of Menton near the Italian border. Allow 3 hours for this trip. Highlights along this road include Roquebrune-Cap Martin and La Turbie. The greatest view along the Riviera is at the Eze Belvedere at 1,200m. 113km.

Pipo  Socca: 據說是最棒的店  Nice  13, rue Bavastro, Nice 06300

Stay at Nice (Esatitude Hotel)


Day 12 (July 5, Thursday):

Nice – Avignon

Check into a hotel in Avignon, capital of Provence, on the Europe’s most beautiful medieval cities.  Spend 2 hours touring the Palais de Papes, which was the capital of Christendom during the 14th century when the popes lived here during the so-called “Babylonian Captivity”. Wander through the old city, buy some colourful Provencal fabrics, and see one of the smaller sights such as the Pont St-Benezet (also known as the Bridge of Avignon).  261km

Lavender’s field – Where to see?

Stay at Avignon (Ibis Centre Pont De L'Europe)


Day 13 (July 6, Friday):

Avignon-Lyon- Paris

Drive back to Paris, might drop by Lyon. If time allows, drop by Fontainebleau. 696km.

Château de Fontainebleau : Palace of Fontainebleau, 3 Place du Général de Gaulle, 77300 Fontainebleau, France

Stay at Paris (Hotel Atlantique)


Day 14 (July 7, Saturday)

Leave Paris at 12:30pm


為直觀一點,把之前貼園子裏過的線路地圖再貼一下。




當然,計劃不如變化快,最後我們到底可以走到哪些地方,找到的那些信息又是否
up to date呢?且聽我慢慢分解 (真的會很慢的哈):)

 

 

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閱讀 ()評論 (4)
評論
longhairr 回複 悄悄話 回複小泥山的評論:

hehe...the trip tips are coming if you don't mind waiting.

Paris has so many to see. Even you don't do reserch at all, you will still enjoy a lot.
小泥山 回複 悄悄話 I'm going to Paris next month, but I haven't done much reserch yet :(

Hope to see your trip tips.
longhairr 回複 悄悄話 回複克拉科長的評論:

聽D提到了,不過因為把打擾你的寶寶們,都不知道什麽時間給你們打電話好。 Joy八月底過東部來,大家會聚聚,你們也一起吧。
克拉科長 回複 悄悄話 終於出來了,沙花!前幾次登錄不了你的博客,還以為你改弦更張了。
坐等環法筆記!
登錄後才可評論.