站在第七大道和49街路口,我有些不知所措。這是12月30號10:30,我們在曼哈頓河邊晨跑之後決定去下城的“吃在意大利Eataly”。穀歌地圖說在這裏坐地鐵N線、4站,可是路口除了旅遊大巴看不到地鐵入口;徘徊了兩三分鍾隻能放棄、招手上了出租。
坐在出租車裏有些恍惚,好像到了意大利北部的曆史古城都靈。二戰以後都靈汽車工業迅速發展,成為歐洲最富裕的城市;但是在石油危機的重創下這個意大利的底特律(現在看來不是什麽好詞兒嗬嗬)人口從一百二十萬迅速萎縮至八十五萬。不過都靈畢竟不是底特律,他們開始了曆史上的第N次重建,這一次是以文化為中心:構築數量眾多的博物館、科研基地和曆史文化中心。令人拍案叫絕的是,重建不是“大規模拆遷”而是改造現存建築,這時一個精明的意大利商人Oscar Farinett看到了商機。2007年他利用一家倒閉的苦艾酒廠房,將其改建為集意大利飲食文化展示中心、高端食品市場和餐飲中心於一體的綜合市場,稱為“吃在意大利 Eataly”。Eataly開業伊始即轟動全球,紐約時報采訪後對這一創新大加讚譽,很快Eataly紐約分店開業了。在不到十年的時間裏,Eataly遍及全球十幾個國家,到明年將誕生第四十家分店。
“到了”,司機在Eataly入口停車、迫使我把思緒拽回來。從車上下來,邊上站著燙金時鍾旁,南側是著名的熨鬥大廈Flatiron。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qcZnH9DeWhCXy3th23mjzHQTbYueM_P7uZFNZH-WiZsKZh-rBkNh1CLvcY_r9vEDe6yBy8FeH4sGdn0y7WZ61Xl0KUaaDeHbYJI7sPch_N9qWVcbxWSWwjtyeA0qlFoISA0-uXQoeK3JS5UsaofEAm9Vm03hsd3h-9bUg6YQozK319TsEa0slr1Jnee-lCCiIOFdqP0YRmKJIhiHzY4gOFsrRZuZBx-ucdWehHo4otO_3SUcvAw4D1jo6mjQ5zR7zeRmDBWOwOWOWYZL5Ti3ViQJWlnUPT_tqECOX2dqBnaEcL_vP9qKQnL44iEhZRXLV8kGUoMFvPIVddM37xRf03NUCzFcS3P5-uG6KrrUOAZJ_TrvZBe0EQE48bvSboZlRabLfJtQHGrVCX0yslZ1J0YCbkZKRkMe4EZzM2qyCi1nekbOEgr4IhTdadhJgSu9YOBDDFcltCvuNPZ8UV3ojELCPp5vaNf2g6fRSHgOzLOmu2zqstK11K_64T4JuVkGmURwcYMAPrSci9Tc8OagC9zGwOv5uf0sBbY51CNQUpRLNgJra2LcR4w_oj_DAjQ0JUeLMg=w693-h317-no)
吃在意大利、燙金時鍾和熨鬥大廈
Eataly最講究的是其“原汁原味”,所有的可儲藏原料包括火腿、起司甚至麵粉全部來自意大利。
看得眼花繚亂,每到一家店先停下腳步讚不絕口,我則拽著LD一路向前趕、甚至她臉現不悅也不管不顧,一直走到盡頭的比薩麵條店La Pizza / La Pasta才停下來。接著過去向前台要一張兩人桌;前台說沒有預定的話大概要等90分鍾。
LD有點傻眼、我則不慌不忙地告訴前台我們的電話,要她有桌子後txt我們,然後得意地跟她說:“90分鍾夠你逛的了吧?”!
“臭德性”,她扭頭走了!沒想到一點不領情,隻好訕訕地跟在LD身後。
La Pasta,現場製作的意大利粉
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l4XTnqD-ZTmkEn7OoDBZNJBxistS2lCKmh4lzExPtgs_pCWargsugr_viglsbr6T9fw7hcobFqEwiu7mA-l2tDg006DQtuCXWOA006viaPeDwfOV-4fmoHb-LmGoewBiC5hwz3ktSN_sOwakBHaIj5ZsIs7SA7EjEZW_xi0VlRSYFP2lt8vgTxEhnEZzO37Ix8M0NHRymwx1JV8wNEHqiXlAAO_V9CG3yJxb0VccLkMxWnizHCUPaWNqQEi9BOLzUtW8P1yQRC3r_KzybATgjohk9y0MBFz7brqt4CbvSF7KtuINU_viVQcRXLgrmOJQnd_c4hFL68dDw9rnGa-5EoorPcm-9Br-Drl8pNF8PdwptO0hrGYuic01qzjSD6rG-Grj4iVLMObNgKc_jcFrz2DblTCvuOIegSEwbdwQPGTsVAny9qO_Wu5vbY_u1H1CZ_9LvfnDtsgkaZYMEbbUU7YIzSvsCgBMiBBU_2oVIxnUzxTfpl9R2_IcbWuAPiKTrki2RWoidDpL-Sl2J2K71qmWT7C8xTep8I6G_aR9MbRabPO3Y_ZmGLhKZq3YhqpIe4uSGA=w1024-h768-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0LLrOrCcRCGJjrdc-79HH5G0dWrNw20AH2xfn5h-BVk9OSvIL7UNiylj5AstOXmi163r5yQme8UbIQvBouUNGXskgseqRR6lKcEkI9VcAF-Oxa7fTCfS-Mdq_6r9xmeeOVPWAFjrosQoJqh98q9zrdBzuJO8dzHkJg8GoIbQ48W-sSDLv-1ZCvcRAWB-0T76-eflj2PoVYfOQzOUdQrzqI6iaVstVB5FETQNMcoJjlSvgZLUsHEHvvErSY-Sfai9fb4Z-Wqs1c0Ue6kcv5-1LYYirjAfWMRIcGZr6ZEzHY6iihiTqyqiCjf_bBG6zhMw0Xhuym5s2NBb4l7UdNhptk3W7f274cE3KeOSgDBfecxgxmUJB_uzR_xYPb_mKJBntRxmx6YVpeP-FghErPSfKt-OuNDMUD5T-5qdnEPTTe8H5jux9S72n_hAqc3dDUvREBSwr49UN6HmENtwaq6KuPbDfFLH2O7bqjja7SO7TTbI9pTb9iMxvYDv0xNsE0odhuSv24LulgekneKju1obn6JsmueVgEn-Fn-u0EY7jb9eKG5GVQnnmvpbJtu6fu9pd8-73w=w1024-h768-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zcB2wKoKnAcfhqvpaLQYjatVop28KFJfPfeKjvKw4nDxwL8c2r0LbDog9hJTcpCoJcGs6CyHbCzFE3vT5YnCWgucyAWLUg62XvzTmtX-BNt8ySok2ATxOD7_8f0mkYH8LR59qcQpO6iBUjiAZnnI_WCAZQ_tnLIm089gj4SutGi1j8_H-WZ9j1l-GdURNjBTWHi-9tTsf6rki6PdjZ6Sjbqu759uJUdQwe4f5Aff2uS6aE86jgUoukaw4Q9Swjm0n0lnL2TK_wcBMwH4r8vCnwdu9Ja3Z_VRNegB_gmPAeXXMWQS0wRPp5Rn_R8qUmTXodT-mUFC1momrh-0KekB3NSbLHH_eIHQDISfCBD4PEyZXtSBVh2ssyUJz5_gcMSiaFCBnr3dglxcpyIY8Q8EAM7nwBhIBhO_mOGL2aVH7Vhecl-OrxS32eaptu0OyK81uEm_gyrpwh-D38JTirol8gIBvIwA70_AHPT8GPS6v0sAM7iFx3Noh-qdG3HyPr0rDIBF0OVeigjG4EpVp0F8Wjtvv8CCgFsSezSwqoCNoCzYRZg0XRXnMJB_xLZzMqERozjnkw=w1048-h648-no)
Eataly各色食品
逛的差不多的時候,短信提示table ready,跟著領位上了二樓。LD要了青蘋果汁和Gnocchi al Ragu di Pollo 海鮮意粉,我點了craft beer和那不勒斯Orvieta比薩(我喜歡點原來沒吃過的特色食品)。因為已經在市場裏亂七八糟的吃了一些,沒要店裏特有的起司火腿拚盤,就著橄欖油蘸麵包塊、喝啤酒和果汁。
端上來的那不勒斯比薩餅一樣的薄、脆,起司冒著氣泡;不同於其它比薩的是、Orvieta比薩不用西紅柿調味醬,就是在餅上直接置坎帕尼亞水牛mozzarella起司。咬一口到嘴裏,香鮮鹹燙,仿佛回到了意大利街頭。LD挖了一勺意粉丟到我嘴裏,一樣的香鮮鹹燙、隻是多了一分筋道。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KgebXU2hLNPChx8UKxWCC1fNe60crdKGWrL6dOouP4iVo1VQm9p_eB5zFRQTuKFUCWLD7ixE_eyAM80mUpWJARMK5-3Sz82j7WyKK_jasG2Niau9aBZMQmCDEm8vKvBhiX5KNA3dMAijlsCr3gW_JpSD0xlMc3hErfudRXqje5LS11C6uANatoU-JeskERPhGOwueBeIcZ6LAEHxZv0_rGIKWdXYrO4xPa4XOtglLr_PdOl9HZpdx4Cn7I31cXuh4Og0kWZOjOJY5XGsPAPOi3GTybM9tHqhP3Pni6FMRqBa2FMDxZhTQwtR4nhfoWZZ-LL8jCeBsgvriA7dzPSIARprepurCXhLFlxhLXbg9to1KP1eO5aaVogwX8WOV3xFEWQ-Jm7zb6KKk8JjdqLnKgydFB5FYuYkxcA1SjN3yDQXzWGUbQ3JMk5jp0kWKp8cWZwwmkDTbFhmIEFIlR1zeCHoL1Vh3bWOP22jH1hjWGgp5jq3B3R2RwAvS0Ht1_vJIgaCoI1DON6FPGENPeI9LRJ_yqj9H3BLG3eG8qk3YocvwD53iQ-3-9QDbK53uL1_Ggabxw=w550-h358-no)
通紅的比薩烤爐
那不勒斯Orvieta比薩 Gnocchi al Ragu di Pollo 海鮮意粉
從Eataly出來,我們接著在第五大道看聖誕節街頭裝飾。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HbyEjiF3Zx7nXOqaWQxCRtZm_S4BzRLad4e1OpHx3PLFO8u7SpFxODXb4rsHVQWuFBOtJa_vbOkx-hmaYUY_SwFExamhyQR2WKNNLiin6tIC1ehb6k8kTPDU_fBA-6Eu-Z-R18BOHyrU3CCWRHkfbAFFVp-_m6xG83XVe1OJQfc-fhy1dd1MmXK0ccKRVhu0mpuMPBYgMNAnLfajibsOBvpoGM86-p9hQJ-YqGuiKUsbkxTJbCaDuIKCEwLb5Y58DKv4iwzQLXzlP-D1aDKsGTIeEcP53LWVnRa4fFzS-cfEtCjTXwaD7piQqX7Ze7fJza6Ui8kmXoRxoaOzjI-exdwZLLZ_B1ZNwkPgKhVhZg8ZOgCWStxpp3j4R7k2D32hnjvANxXhENN5FvAv9nyXwOXcTk55gM4NOC2Rb-tWH6829X9EZ53tPgjmS8uBlpHFOg2y-E95A8ZBJFtwHbjqPnckibFdw-QAATiPoPRzNbYn-iOshaT4BWM1_9lZwZe156CMy_8WS74dyGyzSruTGXuZ2SS_1seWy1rZecToQDJMGsxW_M921JrAziqSpLw0YxqOqA=w1024-h746-no)
聖誕櫥窗:Lord&Taylor
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e2qPg2d4thYccudKoqsWmthmyoaZ9YF3mk1z6NkpPqVXqshQ3riYh5acrKgqKJ2Ip7KUyqWbkY94qVx4npf-cio3YGLnlDrt8svC4tcduMVp25Wpgl2A-YdPRnL4h8nXuIFwi99_33aev4wbfAUVlMhH4zFD3Ddf_-FFF6WKcOoWYlIleb_cJ322jsZ1wOsOE_wat_vXJ8lc3UgT2Kt9M676EVljNEYYhILMGuqSFza9Cnk1zMCI6VMVluncbJH-x1BIgo48wwlr5v6-bOYw_FcsFVXGpnIOBrkSLkVoKv1LB_t7YSEm2gYPGBLjzZnbgAo7LntfDSoxmeiju8_JBSfAvEVdozdEfUobo2eWxm199x3k3VzRwqfie2yNu8ZBC_Yi3IqidEwCwpEQsmXoslQ2HuMrWgZY_VpdIpN519Mh0Z--CMd47NWEA94ih79smJh5vGkDppUcHJxblsExwHwt7kiiv3_nxihnLpNP4WkQOR_13DJMjGJAeXgK9ziWPTzyG3La_xqczbCTWz1twUNGYT0vOt8cVdSCqYV_UrUkambos7p0nf6Ki6b7GR-XZsgQbw=w1024-h768-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Opg7f4T_UBcPE_Yepja_Neinn45pkUy2MmZvy5nUt162S-s4ZhJCTa5tJ2cKWGLsq_duRiFE5Jtz2h-NYsDBQlduH3lUkSIKX-l-VkagRIXzy3P3zVEQY0buP31iVWqrMg93z9ARjTsiU5fR9isiIDof8N3GlNSQGujfAh2N1DHlEApIEIjaGEin4EiQScZ6pnejj3EppdGExuqgxOxHWqI3Vi4RN-aAF6U52Id32WaH1yBBsASYpbRTYdMZLiRtBhwhBfNTSrs0hV8TPJbXE3YvG2ymmKmCz9DrvsZLcNApf-LqmO7q31vF92sA3s4eUzuIi8veujLkergkUD6P1wwuYo5jcB3CJsalr0mT9AURLgKtoGbed-l5_xnnfy-54rI24ClmQ8M2Var4jBkIR3jv_LYHsNUZ1HO3rA2TMXCUM6VN9TVorVEJUW7EVY6sOhYxqAuk7Ak1TXS625e7Cmh-kExmrJ6U2-FJ_ozPabAedindgIJoasF0Y_pEraEnjtqbXf-3dhvX5Rj-rs9jQOYkYkYoTyoDdb1FJSUfcnZCkJ6y_oPhkQqhqo9tSNEho0XADg=w1024-h768-no)
聖誕櫥窗:Saks Fifth Avenue
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/58zPRzOB_ckLlorm1FVZcW1xXnt2yqFi92ByWlM86Ri-5qyZup940IYSdlAoPPP_64L8HID3MUFX0V9KDhzaRcSC3oPT6rq5zcxtmuEHJG3GFRNkTlJzCX94D3rlS7as1LB38KC64rNohdVHotvHfXn2HLRO7gh9fPpjW4nwoPDdcfj_OqVpo_Q2xrNFCFpgaJt9N2XfARU6OTNUSnOJahZr2exanclORz2G_YZ-it0jYJP6C3Wv1SK8597OVPqzf-pjkeEVhtSVj6HXv2_ub5lCHHLvMu67MH5AfHnIV8INv01eeeevY6O7OOhNveaGNhILJVu6jh-xRaOswSD3-AQ8Gt3FpbFvXlNIZyqaBvP33lHPzV5t4LjtB8ld5cxgHMjSAR-ws1i0eSaQstExj1ePEntn1cq_HjrQeIxqDwM9Xx3l4xmM8HcqPW1Yk254D3ob7AAbrVxAaHguxGBr73Hgb3qFZmEVMRWbrH_HQQUJMYn3q3f60xaq0kJUy1KQml-E_1lFOFExsWyxflePmVNnOaHHZ5TUMrNCO4B15uD8dEPtC03VRfdfkaYsM7PUSmsLaw=w1024-h484-no)
紐約圖書館
1993年,從美國訪問回來的朋友帶回一小包餅幹。那個年代隻要是美國的就是好的,好東西自然舍不得自己吃,要等到周末回到嶽父母家給兒子。
撕開包裝,餅幹原來是夾餡兒的,上下是褐色巧克力餅、中間是白色奶油,精致又搶眼。小家夥一點不懂孔融讓梨,吃了一塊又一塊,竟然把那一小包餅幹全吃了,我咽著口水記住了這幾個字母:OREO!
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vuvzspv0n86CNy6esmSsCp4E3XSUgkuLHdy27Zky9mbj4YIc55bhbegKRS5atxaCKaTqWmuOL9GprmRRKaujK16D2NERajyKzIVhT3QikONvH2IvkR0_wFJRtZWJIAP1815zQIlpHqJXytBxHsU8B7C6cszpiuhFwhqGOXYuCQ790JGSzQuQihclfM_ubwuh4fANqNjH4eCv_BD306495ANicvCAOODtGGkQf9cSzRB4QeMOLB7RMTKhsdUfDTFyNeehETVtep04FNeMCvEg65W7sBnXIA2t4nrHV7tYNuuBEIJ3dtRgcdUXlCzwNFTdZiutfhs_zKktmH1bTnTbdW1XSdboK4ipZAjGvYnqYv5lDUfglWvQZhNs2_hxXd85wyGnNUfpTZcXogK5eUrrH83E0Zk7e2S-X9ZiGzE3R4SgGMWmLUezbIm2Y6cGeRpDh12m9_yt0magfmUS75_WFbLbStexneyBicAy-PY-sh1OF6AYXw0lHAIPumUwQB8cSSxgAj2SSC4G6ZcrxNtc9uZdWvZ_gtH1ttp-IE_cjvNuqgck6ndtVitCLKeHN8GBePPUMQ=w1054-h703-no)
OREO和切爾西市場
22年之後,我站在國家餅幹公司廠房Nabisco前,這個奧利奧Oreo餅幹的誕生地已經物是人非、成為切爾西市場Chelsea Market了。
切爾西市場一點也不現代。走進去是巨大的鑄鐵標誌、閃亮的銅雕、裸露的紅磚牆和不加裝飾的天花板,我正皺著眉頭、LD卻興奮不已。
“這是典型的rustic風格,看起來粗曠、其實都是精心搭配的。”,LD給我解釋。
再往前走,整個走廊是舊廣告和招貼畫,顏色豔麗。
“這個風格有點Eclectic的意思。Eclectic就是把不同時代的設計風格混搭在一起,混搭可以是顏色、形狀甚至材料,既有時空穿越、過渡又不突兀…”。
“反正我也不懂,你就糊弄我吧!”,我笑道。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tFkls1A98KHAra3hKHh7c4BfqDzUwl_QE5MFcUjP2OXDMtxFK21Uh-PDqY1qigcwOP68GKhkO_rYHbwgTy93XimICtGdYbaDCF6UWA--T_LziYWB0p3r6bAvhJpTlyp66RZIuTwffdEfF25XkkLbp9RO4QM486TMYXrC9RLxJRz7N0EUwwSNTV2sQMoCNKSyFCOlTbMCJGdNjU6Bu3b2txiC0EBn_huau8ECwImFfKg0VNvGVV3wV0cmaias5rDCX-EDFDiguZ0fMPAz-DydJvU7KCqV4wB7bVg3ooIsOu3K-o4rCA66Mkz2m2wzS6BsizznXQTNGSO3Y0pWzabHIYWN8az3UVLX-GJVSqNi7g2bRwKH0L2bFikqgTEpbcaoBc9qA0bNGFtI9oSKJv-y6ydis00rgoVhKxKmi5cdrjOo2gsoyRFxaGHIxbHWMxaMJxHAHQASCFSmpVmfw9iUg7S9PizBsgcozb8gC4VlTV8elj2Bmv4dBiq6qLp5_-Bmapmz-_DJK7s2CAQAF1rU48AT1WOzk0lEZVnu5HHerHtUEhPl0Y49gF2hHAlMcVRnKQ3b_A=w1054-h791-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w437VLb4pwk1RQZPPeExU6fNbyo0vzoBcjPEIbmu8mquDgv0eyeaXktrRyfmnDVUQKLJjszZMTmYvgNl33eUXVhU5-DgZcmqS54ZBIfB9xtUHOn5gHWHlyV-rcnuuburlUxKSaIGwyEsGqff04KtxVyx1KZde1WBgccPGz8NTl0dQy6LZuyCeQRerEd8rH0V7oNZeGwL6rslpHF-RvjhYUFk5F0KStHf9Pai7MASJEAfttytHuCe78fDKQthFYgj62PyTu34wRQgvx1mohcvtVSX7FSqnif8gT-q6A1szSZDpTiU_IE2rGgJfpJivK2to-LF-hRQmA2gTsPhWwA1i0Z827LZhiu1ej_Q6JkkqUf1zBWbuoffCPnV6aEqpyPAXUTDnoZ3sKcxaylxrsldXIMnBErNpZFxRtZAIiSbNQlB4qAY-SHiMtb3xF-OviOUhtMEiGZsCn06XqHtFYiDfM2uiGpaHdDB5DBybgJa0bZ6PBV5k5IvfRI-aeaXlxbybu479LZzC5LDhHTOPsMXYFHTqHQlDxmE-fQlkEBRD3qDwXtM2ERzFFxtL7pkRGC-ITDgQ=w1054-h791-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yYy_tFIR7U3qPNpUFOwRItmzeN7o9RXibqpoDI2Lk8OctaXJdnTBPHnt7K5TxZ_2gI3k1dSeCuSqRsgF3FCvh1l2MYLYqrV0QPZ2kFjxFv7o45FCNS9GvkLqUz8nQ7FwrFwD_pQMzqecdKN3mOVvm_4_Ig3u-TGmYXglymvGSrGr2e-YdSVsqNv5UHOyxIL8_KSuL-EfXMDJXXfRTgDcVy4kz4A7Jq274-fZ5eG1TfsXIsPMIzc-n2U0wwCz-aIveWv_dIsfqNNTyMCh51dZ-tVP9-XuNj1HXvBgHmzWbzb4lrIvAk4_Ke3uTHhnA5oZ5s4z0isUyGGYf-z2clJnjzN_EBiqy6gJQqK_yvHpBoCU0pwHbckpYNeCizixFGVvgMoBwgzr_XMnkvyZA8AtT6ohwfVdYI0fgmIwPaPim41lAeD9NC_IjO7pQCCsM_jEy3sBhQ0oWBDg9gMwI8ZeMj8QwDLNMU9XH3xv5yeA8KOJF44RWK37D-8cX34TOWXXWLj-bdombPLLUJral3e_D7G0mdppk9cDQm-e7IkfijMhcUI28asdur07ZAE0UTf47Sr5gg=w1054-h791-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ODT_MsZ9LihCl7eXV0VIVq_kil_uN8F8y2ehnOseeuscgn-8J7l57rH_jjKLl4HDz8fxr9Ao7pY2yt5NwwNPszN0mSMS2bF6B73mlXmcbPdzeAalkrj1-hM0Fy3nZxUt6BKF5YTU01sA6wkX6GY8Tubi1N00V8Tjd3gv0e2xRb1JJJ4CVMGPVBkSemjF_AA5C6DM1RnhDZvLgEHinXQgnNfP6BDEaZqGE1DiP3lxyWdmI4aiFhvqioBuyK3zt9Cg-uw2KyoB0GjG9RA7Q6dfAi9j9kNvt8K9JJp7sM80TDJID0k5EOjkSZOcpm3faPZrckeOykzwQEXeLv79VNjOIgEYorE9IYbZgOX19LPIXX-uhKGuwMIOAzO3mJqq0dPVUSpiaB7VC5zKYSH31hmT_szS4pOcamuzWqWrer3BS2zuHbVwz2_FK7st6s8X9IFcjDlQP6MwfzAjGjI18B5hYwgE16S_6CND_Gdmr5RPriyrvLA_EFofpK_bak47GIhCfDtmyY1E75_-zsU37DXqcCx5JEf4v6l-e-Fa9NDKVMCSqFPAtbvuWNmqIWxrhh0hDpz6nw=w1054-h791-no)
切爾西市場內部
遵從“你不知道的紐約”的指點,我們先去艾米麵包房Amy's Bread買了兩個剛出爐的粗黑麵包,接著來到對麵的龍蝦工廠The Lobster Place。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vm2k4c7NyVnH_fR5iir0zIwgM1y6-dc9feNwjNNWuoy0tWdij21HxRb2Bq2zdWq_yL8VEqgJqCPWRovFTJZO7Vmk7JNlY9DcQOWKktR3Bvz-mlAUkTyHmTZGMd6WsKm3g6sJ4bWpdRI8FdkpAF-HWfftWUiB8Ej9qPixy6fdzKonOBVXHcOzedKnuCZv_0MHRHcku92jWb2r0ye9FUhHWUUHT6xyy0JHMBt3wJFp5Uyh6oAT_CR8SqWzALzvhLAIifsLQHd34wKx8Dfszy1xx3aCDpOfmOZvFKuWL7r7Be3pcthKpOIOy3C_nV-14LrY7QzAxy_Y19XP2bVXKFBpPvDSdUFemnyPrhnmKuxS2pJ7Kru5W0HzpdsTWHdmdKkmLfPu9ZQy-zY_5UAk2-zxt6ezF-qr3bss4vIHhLUvBjqnc_6-mQB7xdu6vfhzqBK065DbTv6iuNMDdCiISa9R_VkL31p3m3YhJgi-lxNyUEqgDqH3x0bn4F_DGNUvYd8sI9hnud7noxwdzkQvQpyCBgjVotW8APDxribcJhhCCHDwOO4ZNkyVcyigCkEvWW7PMr1HJA=w1054-h396-no)
切爾西市場:艾米麵包房、龍蝦工廠和九街濃咖啡
龍蝦工廠像一個大海鮮食塢,龍蝦帝王蟹海膽生蠔象牙蚌們堆在觸手可及的櫃台上,食客用手指指點要吃的,大廚馬上給你做好,食客就站在玻璃擋板外側、邊吃邊要。
不理會熙熙攘攘的食客,我們徑直走到工廠的最後麵,那裏有一個小廚房專門做海鮮濃湯,火爐上架著的幾個大不鏽鋼煮鍋騰騰地冒著熱氣。
我們要了大碗的龍蝦濃湯(Lobster Bisque)和曼哈頓蛤蜊雜燴(Manhattan Clam Chowder),到湯鍋前自己盛好,然後回到前麵在站客中擠出一小塊地方,把濃湯放到窄長條桌上,我拿出溫熱的粗黑麵包。
Clam Chowder呈淡綠色,各種雜碎散落在湯中,看起來遠不如淡黃色的Lobster Bisque濃稠細密。“我要這個”,LD把好看的龍蝦濃湯要走了。我們各自拿著麵包、用手撕一塊在湯裏蘸上幾秒鍾然後丟到嘴裏。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B_eZuT3IvrqHxE0jxZ7MfGCSqVsNpP6XdOP_n05_OJ6nBtWsRXGsTUdgo7PtFYWcSceRPf9QpUf1y1CW9jQzUHisQUGHJ7kMzA6RJOcxF7kVGthMRMUou8H_gubP8-IMOqVVYgO3oBsl1_VsS-WosUqvxsUbB8P73xuzu18G37xH-oSLly-Ktja019-HpMynioUXuVzZnl0IdmPe6e0_VjFx2-hbU0pzGBhOOPkWQwkGwsLnFwsVyJl7PiPNpSXIraA13LprEYsTN2Kk7izELaUDHY5eCFA-r1OctMAqdvJR0dKTSXI23CykI8ZbkzGJaVWI_U-Puu69KV9oEOOvnffMJMvLBb8bT_NkXEsREjhTrWGDk_zeTwghmorZGGv0pO2mqMpM44q7IkxMSj-dhXjeardRnBO5IwU6u8a7Fdp5342qz7MzlKu-J_-HwT25zPZVC65kuRddpj7YRswgu54Ja5fBsmtCyvWow693yYzlVKs-3uLllxwRvSWWdsSnmxnvm7HJRIx55f3BkXH05VfvOXkyqCWdeWHn4syvZE9JJZcp6UbFa9OrSq8xTCznepkw6g=w1054-h636-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c7onUkC5QcBAKPhRoO7L2DgDFi-qERQIgn6JAYRyRRpRwVWba_lDltf6HETXXPmWVMXmkh1vFJRN8CwxFjl5t9KNwXVSW5ZI9AtZsFOP6BRJvheVern6NPhVaj52e_56m3Z9GRRQkIVY3TextsAehaIjCnFGSE178ZAY6ykKIRUhBuWzpQ-k24LvJs_Pan2Z-bBWYMSXVcJU2UfxbpZ-4eRdQzBlM42anZM8GTR7uPsPhnriqo4nJDnWXEfyzeT8RImo1McBU8SxbwkGy3Qff1KZNdONW8peurFmy8xtp_egKpRhf_83o24yDP4QQNo0EuhesTEf90493hnk4Suhc34C-cAOB0-xG5vtKDmEOanogP74SMNU6K4EO7rdniAf_0alTbjOypcg-gkrf7Rnr_lMJvS7knq_aPqigrRP0FNx4bjV64ABrFLIPspps0V4lqFAut50KP3jXpvHTC-AF0_4zW03lwvhDyYl6LrxxgbrcmGdD3IDizthNPfsuGJMuYgYRRIsKeMYKJyh7LJGQpXh4q8bOWz1l2aht4LxHzXmcxIpuT6_QCRteznytkpLPMO5nA=w1054-h791-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MY9C_7qz58IxUf3v8MmlRki-du_-jClN2sfTqCN4uvJVUbTgCHqOqkjHq7GwmMTEUmiYFl8t_lB7_l1N8-mOhwbiAj8krPPTd8TwXm_HT3E64isilUMu4fiLsAHFEONsujvFqdGWOgidfYrC9nj8JzYSCpbmZiXJI_SPQqiVgNtKcciBRYGTnm9C8YVHoiYMrs6OufMO3io0w40QqvCb9G4cbKhfI05OMs8gfQXJe8YqzNoBv4XSC7mf0Z0uLs5aHwJvIwq_dZ9E7Q5sgoQ_l1Qx3Emu0EnRSqn0XQv1dRlszILVCnFI2PGu7dQyn3DgzQV10YjS9f2NuttEI4D1O4D2ye5oJyE27V41Y_KwMMogiET-3SSrnbxgRIMjn2JaYRFgNStpLCnlX700BNcDZ5PV2aU6VjTyx9PglyAIomgrrfDlO9SjivvdODVEHjUJDlLRFA09WZTFvSrWaF5hXPUuTbt4SjGM0xiej13Kn3WMFOBjrJgCCvRW8XKgZMokDB1YtpNF3tQcrMNlO6li_T2CaachIn9FiV_jyXjUSTQ2aIv0kx1eC4ZPs8FoCQa7VQD3og=w1054-h791-no)
龍蝦工廠、湯鍋和吃相不雅的LD
這種粗黑麵包雖然是用雜糧做的,韌性卻很好,用它蘸了濃湯來吃真是沒治了。Chowder用料是海鮮雜碎、倒是沒半點腥味,我不顧旁邊一對歐洲食客詫異的目光,自顧大口吃著;LD看我吃得香甜,要求換著吃,我自是順水推舟。
在歐洲人吃完第二支帝王蟹腿之後(鬼知道我們擠過去之前他們吃了多少隻帝王蟹腿),我們的湯碗見底了。“你吃的是什麽?”,看我們要走了,衣著講究的歐洲人問。
“你想試?”,歐洲人點頭,濃湯的香味顯然吸引了他們。
“湯就在後麵的廚房,可以自己去盛”,我用手一指,“不過這裏沒有麵包。恰好我還要去那個地方,跟我走吧!”。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ohkv2cb0k4oyCawRw-evlv-Mng5jA5QpnfHt2x11k1JqtWTWC6K3_eQzyf5n25NUCy3ECGRi4KtwFYPiYkxEnWFsY7-O3NZe1gogAAhKijJJ7HRjE3Q7Or4FzFwfWTnqi4d7cfsiiHkCo7EvajT4EQUfRw7mIdZ7ydcrdgXCSUh_7YXNDkNFaATD2EfX3NPmtJFMpH_sLB8AU-Ba7VOthRvihY69vXOgxfHoyd8jJoI53gug2UAiflHqTRnhCD7IE6HuUhiF_QqKvVvQ9kRg0YSuZOKanMBEVIL_fCBOF6tigCNuEGuQnK75xdVpt1aTp34mDQl8aMwCLU4A8NKw3j_fepI4acG5Tphjg55XD5XLOHqtss5ymAITAiWLuXYIT8NUkvdhtuYHXBCUBRiFD7FDvIH6FMmGHrIVIig-OMoG35nw8IzqGrlbHDy7ZnmWdITqIlwu8t38NeNPpXRXpqVcSyv-NYCS0UGKTwd9XQ4ENe01cGYB068srRq8_RFgSyP-41XFO6tScmQlrOOwCdDskiKqVZDQx9LP2bAMeUxHtpiTy4gILBJTf8coDHvSlT8MQw=w1054-h659-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mgh7sbaL4uVd-eBnrBjWA4AAOGIhg2IMnzpG_zwZewGGjl8ybF2X1TaJJMERMQIPq90XsLavSu05aJk6SQru2lX3tbniQpB5G3d22hzcjjMvnEuYwSu4OmAjuC4JtlzDjIjXtoE9mShqr4W09TgyK2S4PS_nC684FO0c4Q9rGl-Rz_HDSPj9evGZGip93EG0-ex21ssk53gJzX7JreU643wY5AS5j9NXf1JDMP5kTPYg-8A4qQ3QfFiRem0WDLp8SlKm6P6Vcg5GLrf_7Jvv8pj7_0Y8nfH3WRyIN6C7I-YECVa1ym1wNX5qsN6XD8xh6kjNlzffeiYvnkgEHCh8lqORDWBIpczJNx2qYkLDLu9fisBwt9qBKSpAC3B3PCjuSt3HH0ttIIkU6Zs0FPmXWgXGZhgJjqP22arQ6HlDIe2kWsRHyQY8R54EPbNw58aX0pWNk47C5Rw5OmgkSgLwXAGKti49yB30gAb6mS84StJbnYLECwJllrGyWeSENmec0vRGytZF4whkaOqvz_KTHB75XXMGpIIJInLc-8YwrTVhzFn8ifi-q0Dl4viNRCGRYnirDA=w1054-h791-no)
歐洲人忙不迭地付了賬,跟著我回到艾米麵包房。待歐洲人買好,我要了葡幹茴香粗粉麵包(Semolina with Golden Raisins and Fennel )和酥脆小紅莓巧克力餅(Crunchy Cranberry Chocolate),然後去隔壁的九街濃咖啡Ninth St Espresso買了卡布奇諾cappuccino和美式濃縮americano(美式濃縮的做法基本上就是雙倍意式濃縮加熱水),在人行道邊上的桌子坐下,邊喝咖啡吃甜食邊看遊人進出各家店鋪。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PY6Bu3tuzAW2QtxfEYtCYShZ0nM2uz0m919GhwokTylTmL99_4JGh24YmlVQ4X3jeKNgYzl6VSp-V-f10twoz3UA-xJ7ogxV9uxrvU1EyYA-r85nY0M6Xn3Ws1dpgt-m0omE9XusCrJIAM-kOwuvJUnQHkaZ-15I81-CMMx6oZry-heMSqpPhsZ5bU0iPNEsmJaP8cLbFFEyOPfdJ3zFPvR6KYR_uGOZYsJfwGdYBqaAztlHU3gKocAwxoAepFRU3HxLhwjsYDgXTq3IaGb7d-nz3EtZs5_lC8WQ2Y5LDkU3uHwqWUc-mULvu6dDzgL5jY3wF_xcAgbPT3XI8DmjNjIwNBYyVMXYLgXgnOBZKdlVa6i3xmwWJder6PNW_Al9keDEOwNjw9XYTLNDMpfimpTlASBDaXnBTzhpfRwrRvWzrr66askCYsxDgJnFiHlEvyzWPqFErh-sSEvD6_p7tllmgIW3-HddtVUj-VHL6RurcIoJRl03S6fIXNqF4kShsEGFdYyrCYFldlyNCoceX9VUih31-bZG6jFSSn8e-2lX30tlD-Lv8di3aMeXph-CUFh4mw=w1054-h789-no)
從切爾西出來,我們走上空中花園The High Line,步行回住所。
空中花園始於14街和第十大道,終於哈德遜河東側的34街。
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/azilO45yuCaalpe-uoma1mL0WbGC9pDeYSGxRP_43OJpQ3Dd-7Us5UrLjc26DvzlaxOmHOqZGCPVQ-JcDAX3Y-tIp7TOzWK4oaIvuws1nA8Clhpghe9oFSIAznICI9-DdbPn94oCGryxi_jcjJt8_RKGDba-c6s1WvueOTzydDjmrMsfr1iAy85tO5w4ecu8gmstuNabuB5zX3VEsPJnpijEfcJGBaeLqIZzylUcImCYHw-NXldIB3cxO5WQB5vXtdqTTRrbuWJsSzyvk_jjuNc5WKfVDYMUOHMjiY7aaQ6SYGdgiXIXCYvUPf8KbfwzIY-Z_Y7vpjVdHguETFBA4PVoPY1DC0VxnqoEyWJhuGc6TfKW2_OqSi5zp5kpQRFy9pyYF7WE1YeeHyKl1d2UNSs5JoF3-kN0yFmXt8gUQhhg_ipJOPFNRb713ZjDNv6RhKvPV5awEwvu-AE5PFgw311xnH5Z6vYM-z-GRMspHSxhEHJWGJnhPyjW1o9OTlwLiDU_QuYYp4M6RAop33X0nYDoEpCTknAGQwaA4LUEmZGEiJOD6mksyhJr4m_VxpmFsbAb5Q=w1054-h791-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VyxhrSTaAcb2hzZa3Reim4mbPJ_zv3OX5XWefSLspy5Tdy-J4wIm465h4_rhpMHmdjcyPCINH_--XREqM8uQ_53mrn0inyPQKiCwqCkOAKuN1JiQgxvrXIz1LEYCMmD6iTEHzFAtZA9-TSqQCLPqkoVhn5dYAWaRRWzszskG3eX-xXihRxbWitaRfhp6XxnxnW75YRdT_tnKyQDNy1sECsDiQ2YX9kj7Ldg6Xz-of5tGCl4YWsak65q9wyaZoJsrWlB6z609ChtHxeN-cyfltupHymGu4AR00ecFep6SzZbYdurLiLQROtwqwoekBFWd6r--arPDbmVDpDyV6-G7w-pAkGTG9tgzzvwn3ojsUbF5KVe36taIv-b-D25xrAmIYo-zNAsBJNZzI0f4Bxt7QWV2SccI20ciGR2u-YF4XZS-X-YWMs9mQn7pYVcbV9P-tnYD6bhh-YKkkK2SW3rocAETX9XKAykVjJzxzR2xU64XYznhiSllYpfYbMCti24QdQpLffb21U9_3nxsOk-qZiqAEXRtLinlGn1_ny3me9HL6Idc6-SucTizb95w55uVzPN8w=w1054-h791-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tZbBm2SUNfSaaUgsQQFzpiXhzeSzg81CnYxw3wR_pi-gExfkg84RN9gWJKd4_t6sFzAuspouRO7m_zI9vg5S2tlZdyki2dz8S8MncLeXFLLHOYzoNn-AtTuBZPUuyzlEKZe0FABVcfKjyOkz3LhmMCOJWBDCclsDZmcXw5tjXQkq3W-xgGufA30LoCKFE0z2r3HFLD8dc57aPTKybVKomY2Wi2EByO3kTANqjLDPMHCpF-JqqNBLE_1jX7pqkdcFNI7xbD3VjTnhG9E9l-vliZgPFu-VBr7LHTNi8CAOrTQyApNz7c3AIMx3JfTwonM8BaUVoKqu4AILnN5i0-NJB6NbPvspczShDQVza8lw9m615EmbrpdubW9isOVaI4jtjMnEdjFSM9CPqUMZbx-D-3UcgDzvMJ3p4M0YcOBsnzI9ICkAKYfzreWW8hem4jh01xEa9pByR8koF7Cv2ZlsRvCcZkWMS80r2Ru0fGUlN65FGd9LHNqxIFXjeQaiTJjZ4pZ_5dNtPkEksAswtUsQ-LVOFqeJcvtlzHmxTWxNGwm79P2JQW5oikKX46CeccJsvAok7A=w1054-h791-no)
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空中花園和落日餘暉
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《吃在曼哈頓(上)》
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