在穿過數不清的隧道 (E65 上車不多路況極佳,開起來很爽)又繞了許多盤山公路之後,終於安全地抵達Mostar。誰會料到真正的考驗正在前麵悄悄地等著我們呢。本來想把車暫時停在路邊去找預訂的住處,一位號稱是 "from the city" 的當地人自告奮勇給我們帶路,車被引進一個窄窄的胡同裏,結果也沒找到停車位。要想退出來感覺比登天還難啊!經過無數次的嚐試與熄火(租的是手動擋車,還被不合時宜地免費升級到大號車型)終於把車平安地倒出來了,死了無數的腦細胞!最後連側鏡都得合上才能勉強通過。
找到預定的公寓後,敲了半天沒人應答。那個當地人幫我們打電話也沒人接,又幫我們問了一下鄰居, 說是沒人住在那裏。差點兒住進另一家酒店,多虧前台的工作人員又熱心地幫我們打了一個電話,這回終於和公寓的主人聯係上了。現在想想可能是那個當地人在撒謊,想把我們領到他推薦的旅館好收取中介費。幸好我們已經不信任他了,所以就沒跟他走。
經過上麵的刺激後緩了好一會兒才有心思去探訪 Mostar。它屬於那種看上一眼就覺得必須身臨其境的地方,有著一種無可言喻的美麗。
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Stari Most (Old Bridge), The Old Bridge stood for 427 years, until it was destroyed on 9 November 1993 by Croat forces during the Croat–Bosniak War. The rebuilt bridge opened on 23 July 2004 (Wikipedia).
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Kriva Cuprija (Crooked Bridge), 是為建 Stari Most 做實驗用的
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鋪著鵝卵石的老城街道
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往回走的時候,街上的行人已散去很多
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不太清楚這些穿著民族服裝的人在慶祝什麽呢
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Bosnian War 的創痕還依稀可見
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網友和房東不約而同地推薦了這個 Restoron Sadrvan,晚餐就在這兒了, 它就坐落在老橋的旁邊。
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點了烤魚和一種 local dish 叫做 Mostarian sahan,味道還行。讀網友的帖子,感覺在這裏品嚐土耳其咖啡像是一件挺浪漫的事,也就跟風點了兩份,說實在的並不太符合我們的喜好。
Bosnian coffee - 咖啡豆磨碎後放進小銅杯裏煮。前不久看到一個視頻,還專門有人根據咖啡倒出後渣子的型狀來算命,大千世界真是無奇不有啊。
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夜色慢慢降臨,邦克聲又悠然地響起,提醒著我們仍然漂泊在遙遠的異國他鄉。
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